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His Divine Shadow posted:Some oil on the cutting board: It looks great, but I thought oak was recommended against for cutting boards because of the open grain? Or is that only red oak?
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Mar 24, 2021 20:43
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:It looks great, but I thought oak was recommended against for cutting boards because of the open grain? Or is that only red oak? It’s not the best for end grain, but red oak is worse. It’s fine for regular cutting boards. Even pine can be used for end grain okay, but you want to pick the tightest grain possible and not stuff used for stud wood. Those look like pretty tight grain so it should work great.
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Mar 24, 2021 20:59
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Huxley posted:drat, need help with anything else? You got a boom truck that can put trusses on a second storey?
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Mar 24, 2021 22:25
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Toebone posted:Anyone have a link to a guide or article about workshop organization? Mine is always a mess within a few days of cleaning it up, I can't help but think I could do things more efficiently. The best piece of advice is to always clean up when you're done, including sweeping the floors and surfaces. The temptation is to just leave it, especially when you're working on projects over a few days and then everything is just everywhere and you can never find anything. You can have all the storage solutions in the world but they're all useless if everything is piled up on your workbench after 3 hours and never put back.
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Mar 25, 2021 00:21
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Are expensive pocket hole jigs worth it? I am just getting started with out wood working. I have some c clamps, and a drill and a couple saws from my home improvement projects.
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Mar 25, 2021 01:45
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Calidus posted:Are expensive pocket hole jigs worth it? I am just getting started with out wood working. I have some c clamps, and a drill and a couple saws from my home improvement projects. Nah, stick with cheap and cheesy stuff at first. If it's something you use a lot and need better quality, you'll figure it out. Make sure you really need something before you spend a lot of money on it.
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Mar 25, 2021 01:50
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Calidus posted:Are expensive pocket hole jigs worth it? I am just getting started with out wood working. I have some c clamps, and a drill and a couple saws from my home improvement projects. Generic jigs are fine, but you want the Kreg screws
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Mar 25, 2021 01:57
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:It looks great, but I thought oak was recommended against for cutting boards because of the open grain? Or is that only red oak? Oak cutting boards are pretty common here commercially so I figured that would not be an issue, european oak is less porous than both american types as well so should be more suitable. Jhet posted:It’s not the best for end grain, but red oak is worse. It’s fine for regular cutting boards. Even pine can be used for end grain okay, but you want to pick the tightest grain possible and not stuff used for stud wood. I actually like pine a lot for this. Got one that's over 20 years old. Pine is extra good at the antibacterial properties bit.
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Mar 25, 2021 05:24
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Toebone posted:Mine is always a mess within a few days of cleaning it up, I can't help but think I could do things more efficiently. My rule of thumb with organizing anything is that if I am repeatedly failing to put an item back where it belongs, it probably doesn't belong there and I should reconsider how I store it. Do I have to move too many other things to put it away? Is it stored too far away from where I normally use it? Do I avoid putting it away because it's too irritating to get it back out when I need it? Even if the answer is just "I'm too lazy to use the storage system I have for this", that's still a problem. A lifetime of experience at being me tells me that I'm not gonna get any less lazy about it, so I need to come up with a solution that I will use. Also, I hate drawers. Maybe some people have the discipline to keep a drawer neat and organized with nothing but chisels stored in the chisel drawer, but I'm not one of those people and any drawer I have access to rapidly becomes a general junk drawer. So gently caress it. No drawers anywhere but the kitchen, where drawers are unavoidable.
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Mar 25, 2021 08:55
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I really like having a tool wall, where everything hangs in a dedicated space that's labeled or outlined. I also hang lots of things on the ceiling joists. I use drawers for hardware organization.
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Mar 25, 2021 11:36
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I'd love to have a tool wall/pegboard. Unfortunately, I have a stone foundation so I can't mount anything on the walls at all. I'm glad I'm skinny or I couldn't move around my workshop.
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Mar 25, 2021 12:40
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Stultus Maximus posted:I'd love to have a tool wall/pegboard. Unfortunately, I have a stone foundation so I can't mount anything on the walls at all. I'm glad I'm skinny or I couldn't move around my workshop. Sounds like you need a hammer drill
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Mar 25, 2021 12:52
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Stultus Maximus posted:I'd love to have a tool wall/pegboard. Unfortunately, I have a stone foundation so I can't mount anything on the walls at all. I'm glad I'm skinny or I couldn't move around my workshop. Buy a pack of masonry screws (the blue/grey ones that come with the pre-drilling and driving bits). Put in some 2x2" spacers and then mount pegboard over top.  Or is the reason why you can't mount stuff on the walls because you're not allowed to put holes in the foundation?
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Mar 25, 2021 12:58
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Anyone have a good guide for making built-in bookcases? The wife would like a corner built-in floor to ceiling.
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Mar 25, 2021 14:14
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Rutibex posted:Sounds like you need a hammer drill It's not the material, it's the fact that it's lumpy and uneven since it's rough hewn stone.
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Mar 25, 2021 14:47
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crossposting from the fix it fast thread: I wanna turn this:  Into this:  I was thinking of making the actual bookcases out of 3/4 plywood (extending them almost too the top and attaching trim against the ceiling), but I'm unsure about how to go about securing them, I was thinking of either just stacking them on the top shelf and using a french cleat system in the span above the opening or constructing a ladder of 2x2s covered in thin plywood sheating that spans the entire length of planned shelving (about 15 feet) that'd be screwed down to the exisiting bookcase, the wall behind it and the wall at the opposite end (both brick), and placing the plywood bookcases on top of that, using trim or filler to hide the overlap thoughts? other ideas?
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Mar 25, 2021 16:27
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How high is that ceiling? Only Michael Jordan could use those shelves
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Mar 25, 2021 16:35
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Around 10 feet
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Mar 25, 2021 16:47
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I would use 3 1/2 or 4" screws through the back into the studs. I don't think you need anything more complicated.
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Mar 25, 2021 16:52
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:Anyone have a good guide for making built-in bookcases? The wife would like a corner built-in floor to ceiling. Corner units are tricky. Are you going with something triangular and the face flat against the corner walls? That's some pro-level stuff. You have to rip the corner pieces 45° on one side, and there's only one tool that will do that. A table saw. Or you can use typical facing and turn those corners back so the unit is an inch or 2 proud of the wall. Deteriorata posted:I would use 3 1/2 or 4" screws through the back into the studs. I don't think you need anything more complicated. That's overkill. He'll torque something out or split something else. 3" max is plenty, even if you could fit Charles Barkley into the shelves.
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Mar 25, 2021 17:09
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Charles Ingalls posted:crossposting from the fix it fast thread: It's a design/aesthetic thing but it would look nice if you could figure out how to have the new shelves line up with the existing picture rail? Maybe run that moulding under the shelves/on top of your existing bookcase? I'm not sure there's an easy/clean way to do it but it would be nice.
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Mar 25, 2021 17:29
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Rutibex posted:How high is that ceiling? Only Michael Jordan could use those shelves Putting in one of those rolling-track ladders would be cool, maybe, if it could tuck to the side when out of use and not be obstructing.
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Mar 25, 2021 17:58
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would a french cleat be a good secure solution for holding those in place?
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Mar 25, 2021 18:22
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CommonShore posted:would a french cleat be a good secure solution for holding those in place? By design it would leave a gap at the ceiling, but that could be covered with trim after it is hung.
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Mar 25, 2021 18:47
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CommonShore posted:would a french cleat be a good secure solution for holding those in place? You've now had two threads tell you "just screw it to the wall, it'll be fine". I'm curious what you think a French cleat adds to this project beyond extra complexity.
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Mar 25, 2021 19:17
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Mr. Mambold posted:Corner units are tricky. Are you going with something triangular and the face flat against the corner walls? That's some pro-level stuff. You have to rip the corner pieces 45° on one side, and there's only one tool that will do that. A table saw. Or you can use typical facing and turn those corners back so the unit is an inch or 2 proud of the wall. I was thinking something along the lines of this: 
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Mar 25, 2021 19:27
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Whats your level of skill and what tools do you own?
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Mar 25, 2021 19:52
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My skill is decent and improving for construction stuff (last summer I built a huge chicken coop and a 12x16 shed, year before I remodeled my entire basement to the studs.) My skill is not good yet for furniture. I hope to improve that. Built-ins kind of seem to bridge that gap a little? I don't know. I own everything I would think I'd need for this. I see some people use a biscuit joiner instead of face nailing. I don't have that, but I could get one if I needed to.
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Mar 25, 2021 19:58
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The shelves not lining up all the way around is killing me
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Mar 25, 2021 20:04
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Rufio posted:The shelves not lining up all the way around is killing me That's why you put doors over them.
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Mar 25, 2021 20:06
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:You've now had two threads tell you "just screw it to the wall, it'll be fine". I'm curious what you think a French cleat adds to this project beyond extra complexity. I'm not the op but I like the idea of a French cleat for securing heavier units to a wall, and they strike me as relatively simple e. just to clarify, the thought of holding a full shelf unit that high while screwing it to the wall gives me the heebie jeebies, and if you're screwing the whole thing up there that might be a 3 person 3 ladder job - two to hold one to screw. A french cleat simplifies the installation because you're never trying to hold and screw a big heavy thing all at once. Seems way safer for the over-the-door component. And I was more suggesting it as a possibility while asking about its suitibility CommonShore fucked around with this message at 22:03 on Mar 25, 2021 |
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Mar 25, 2021 21:54
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Rufio posted:The shelves not lining up all the way around is killing me I'm glad I'm not the only one.
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Mar 25, 2021 22:32
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:My skill is decent and improving for construction stuff (last summer I built a huge chicken coop and a 12x16 shed, year before I remodeled my entire basement to the studs.) Will you paint it or are you going for a natural look? If you're painting just nail it. Built-ins are fun, but most of the skill is in the planning and preparation stages.
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Mar 25, 2021 23:30
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:My skill is decent and improving for construction stuff (last summer I built a huge chicken coop and a 12x16 shed, year before I remodeled my entire basement to the studs.)
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Mar 25, 2021 23:56
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:My skill is decent and improving for construction stuff (last summer I built a huge chicken coop and a 12x16 shed, year before I remodeled my entire basement to the studs.) That's not really biscuit joiner territory. In fact, it's the last tool I'd consider. That bookcase you show is way more than just a corner unit I described. And a bookcase for humans is not coop for chickens level joinery. Face nailing is entirely acceptable. Kaiser Schnitzel and serious gaylord offered good tips. Set the shelves wherever the gently caress you think they do the most good; or consider building some of them fixed, some movable. If you're covering an area with electrical plug(s), you want to miss it with the shelf and don't forget to cut out the back for it (as in your pic) Typical movable shelves have dadoed in tracks and clips that hold the shelves. Or you can just drill spaced holes, and find the right clips.
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Mar 26, 2021 00:40
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Thanks all. I have a table saw, miter saw, and a track saw jig I made out of plywood. It will be painted, so yeah putty, sand, and paint over the nails is the way I had anticipated I'd do it. I do have a pocket hole jig, but hadn't considered using it here. I don't own a drill press, so hadn't really wanted to fuss with making the shelves adjustable. Was going to make everything out of 3/4" plywood and cut dados with a router, then face frame it with... something. There's no electrical outlets to worry about. serious gaylord posted:Built-ins are fun, but most of the skill is in the planning and preparation stages. Yeah the prep part is what I think I may need the most help with, where I was hoping to get a decent reference (all I see from googling is Pinterest crap). I built a desk years ago and a mud bench last year, but that's about it for furniture.
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Mar 26, 2021 01:50
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I picked up some 3/8” galvanized carriage bolts and some hex nuts and washers to go with them. The bolts were loose but the nuts were packaged so I couldn’t put them on in store and make sure everything was groovy. Well I just got home and the nuts won’t go on the bolts... I can get about 1 full turn before they freeze up entirely. From what I read it could be the galvanizing that’s causing the problem but I couldn’t find any solutions... any ideas?
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Mar 26, 2021 01:57
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:Thanks all. I have a table saw, miter saw, and a track saw jig I made out of plywood. It will be painted, so yeah putty, sand, and paint over the nails is the way I had anticipated I'd do it. You don't need a drill press to make adjustable shelves. A shelf pin jig like this: https://www.amazon.com/KREG-KMA3200-Shelf-Pin-Drilling/dp/B005FKX6D8 works great with a hand drill.
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Mar 26, 2021 02:01
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yoohoo posted:I picked up some 3/8” galvanized carriage bolts and some hex nuts and washers to go with them. The bolts were loose but the nuts were packaged so I couldn’t put them on in store and make sure everything was groovy. Well I just got home and the nuts won’t go on the bolts... I can get about 1 full turn before they freeze up entirely. From what I read it could be the galvanizing that’s causing the problem but I couldn’t find any solutions... any ideas? Could be the galvanization. Could be the wrong size hole for the shaft. Could be the wrong thread pitch. For future reference, no hardware store assistant I have met would care if you opened the little bag of nuts to make sure they fit. Just don't be an rear end in a top hat and steal bits out of the bag and you're fine.
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Mar 26, 2021 02:30
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:Thanks all. I have a table saw, miter saw, and a track saw jig I made out of plywood. It will be painted, so yeah putty, sand, and paint over the nails is the way I had anticipated I'd do it. I like pocket screws to hold cabinet tops/bottoms to sides, but you can also certainly but screw/dado/whatever. Some people like the more 'built in' look of non-adjustable shelves and I have an architect friend who can't stand the sight of shelf pin holes, but IMO adjustable ones with shelf pegs are way quicker and handier. It's whatever you like best. You don't need a drill press-it's very easy to make a shelf pin jig by just drilling a bunch of holes along a line in a piece of scrap and getting a depth stop collar for a drill bit and using a hand drill. https://sawdustgirl.com/diy-shelf-pin-drill-jig/ You don't even need pegboard-you can just drill holes through scrap basically randomly if you want, just make sure the jig is always on the bottom of the cabinet and whichever way is 'up' is always up to the holes line up with each other. Jim Tolpin (and certainly many others) has written some good books on basic cabinet/bookshelf construction and your local library almost certainly has a pile of them. yoohoo posted:I picked up some 3/8” galvanized carriage bolts and some hex nuts and washers to go with them. The bolts were loose but the nuts were packaged so I couldn’t put them on in store and make sure everything was groovy. Well I just got home and the nuts won’t go on the bolts... I can get about 1 full turn before they freeze up entirely. From what I read it could be the galvanizing that’s causing the problem but I couldn’t find any solutions... any ideas?
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Mar 26, 2021 02:39
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