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randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

nitsuga posted:

New is an idea, but those panels are a crapshoot as far as fit goes. You might be able to fix this one up a for less really if you’re concerned how it will turn out as is. I think I’d send some pictures of the bumper you picked up and see what some local shops had to say. Maybe there’s a home gamer on CraigsList too.

I remember hearing everything from GTFO to $500-$1000 when I was getting quotes on fixing my Fit’s bumper. In the end I just put a sticker over the crack, but every time I’ve looked into getting something done, there’s been a pretty wide range, and it just came down to finding someone I trusted enough to do it.

Yeah at that price, it's going on as-is. The only reason I even got a replacement is my original is sagging so bad that (a) it's kinked within the wheel wells and starting to rub the front of the front wheels and (b) the fog lights are literally forced to point straight down from the bumper sitting on them at this point. I've got a few roadkill points (literal roadkill, not the show) with the existing one.

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two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004

McTinkerson posted:

Soak the dowels in penetrating oil overnight. Then you will need some percussion from a dead blow around the entire bellhousing in a circle. I have always had to use quite a bit more force than I expected.

E: Spelling.

Got it soaking now, thanks

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy

Motronic posted:

Not even this permatex stuff? https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/anaerobic-gasket-makers-flange-sealants/permatex-anaerobic-gasket-maker/?locale=en_us

This is what's in my local parts stores.

And how everyone else repairs gearboxes depends. A shop that does this will have the right poo poo on hand. As far as home gamers, you know the variable quality there. I'd say a good majority would slap some blue goo on there than call it a day. And that will work......for a while. I'd say you're better off ordering the right thing and doing it right so it lasts.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

mobby's in the EU, I think?
Yep. poo poo sucks.


It's really bizarre, there are stores that have more or less the complete range of Permatex stuff, but no signs of any anaerobic goo. Seens like 3M GM10/18 might work too but nobody has those, either. Found one place that has it in a PDF catalog but not in the store. I'll try calling them. Would be pretty nuts if I have to abandon the whole project and pay someone to do it because I can't get the right sealer.

E: it's just not there lol. Compare and contrast:
https://www.permatex.com/product-category/gasketing/
https://www.permatex.eu/product-category/gasketing/

E2: I've now spent more time searching for this than it would take to actually replace the bearing, but I tracked down Loctite 518. $1/ml, HP would be proud.

mobby_6kl fucked around with this message at 23:11 on Mar 25, 2021

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

STR posted:

Yeah at that price, it's going on as-is. The only reason I even got a replacement is my original is sagging so bad that (a) it's kinked within the wheel wells and starting to rub the front of the front wheels and (b) the fog lights are literally forced to point straight down from the bumper sitting on them at this point. I've got a few roadkill points (literal roadkill, not the show) with the existing one.

A couple cans of aeresol high build primer and sand it smooth. Even if it never matches at least a uniform color looks nicer, and gives you a little project to do and perhaps you get it painted after all.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

STR posted:

Yeah at that price, it's going on as-is. The only reason I even got a replacement is my original is sagging so bad that (a) it's kinked within the wheel wells and starting to rub the front of the front wheels and (b) the fog lights are literally forced to point straight down from the bumper sitting on them at this point. I've got a few roadkill points (literal roadkill, not the show) with the existing one.

FWIW, I forget the year of your car (I think 05?) Rock auto has front bumpers for about 120 bucks Canadian. Americastan prices would probably be a few bucks cheaper, but then shipping. I guess if you were going to do that, you would have already done it.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

STR posted:

Got a used bumper for Brokeback. It's in better shape in that it's not cracked or sagging, but the paint is a little more beat.

If I scuff it up myself and just ask a body shop to do a quick respray before I put it on the car (matching the current color, not giving a poo poo about filling in scratches, dings, and the like), how much would that likely cost, with clear? The paint on the rest of the car is in really good shape. I'm not worried about blending it or anything (esp since it's two tone; the rest of the two done doesn't resume until the doors). The replacement kinda looks like it's been repainted at some point anyway.



e: or should I just give up on that idea and buy an actual new cover if I want it painted? The bumper covers are the major cosmetic issues on this car, followed by the damage it had from being sideswiped at some point (mostly the RR 1/4 panel). If it's cost-prohibitive, I'll just slap this one on and call it a day.

Late to the party. Get a can or two of color matched touch up spray paint. Clear the garage, set up some cheap plastic and saw horses. do the sanding/priming/painting yourself. It'll come out better than it currently looks.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

wesleywillis posted:

FWIW, I forget the year of your car (I think 05?) Rock auto has front bumpers for about 120 bucks Canadian. Americastan prices would probably be a few bucks cheaper, but then shipping. I guess if you were going to do that, you would have already done it.

It's an 03, and the bumper is specific to 03-04.

Rockauto has the correct one for $85. ONLY ONE REMAINING!!1!

............... and $153 for shipping. Yikes. Then I gotta deal with getting it painted.

cursedshitbox posted:

Late to the party. Get a can or two of color matched touch up spray paint. Clear the garage, set up some cheap plastic and saw horses. do the sanding/priming/painting yourself. It'll come out better than it currently looks.

That would work. I don't care about filling in the scrapes, dings, etc, I was just hoping to make it one color. FWIW I did just take another look at it, and it appears to be an OEM bumper, though it looks like it's been repainted at some point (bits of overspray where my existing one doesn't have any). It was also missing most of the plastic clips, so it'd probably been off the car before.

glyph
Apr 6, 2006



Motronic posted:

Just hold the wrench still and "pedal" backwards - that's gonna be how it comes off.

Coming in late here, but you've actually got that backwards. The left (non driveside) pedal is left threaded. If the bearings suddenly seized and you kept pedaling forward, per usual, the pedals would unthread.

Counter intuitive, but the mismatched pedal threads isn't a safety thing, it's about bearing precession, and ensures what little there is works to tighten the pedal axle into the crank arm.

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004

two_beer_bishes posted:

Got it soaking now, thanks

Update: still stuck

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

glyph posted:

Coming in late here, but you've actually got that backwards. The left (non driveside) pedal is left threaded. If the bearings suddenly seized and you kept pedaling forward, per usual, the pedals would unthread.

Counter intuitive, but the mismatched pedal threads isn't a safety thing, it's about bearing precession, and ensures what little there is works to tighten the pedal axle into the crank arm.

I literally just had to put a pedal wrench on a bike because I'm like "what the hell, I spent years of my teens building bikes in a bike shop" and yeah, turns out I've lost a lot of brain cells.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

two_beer_bishes posted:

Update: still stuck
You're sure it's not binding against something else, right? Like, driveshaft is out, it's not moving toward part of the body, something like that? (Sorry, dumb question, but it's worth making sure.)

Can you visualize the alignment dowels? I often find that looking at those (while attempting to move the transmission) can narrow down what's binding - I.e., if it doesn't move at all, there's something holding that side of the transmission on, if it moves off-axis, it points toward something one side or the other of that dowel.

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004

Krakkles posted:

You're sure it's not binding against something else, right? Like, driveshaft is out, it's not moving toward part of the body, something like that? (Sorry, dumb question, but it's worth making sure.)

Can you visualize the alignment dowels? I often find that looking at those (while attempting to move the transmission) can narrow down what's binding - I.e., if it doesn't move at all, there's something holding that side of the transmission on, if it moves off-axis, it points toward something one side or the other of that dowel.

Yeah the driveshaft is out and moving the transmission easily moves the engine on its mounts, I can move the transmission in every direction, up/down, left/right, and it just brings the engine with it. I'm rocking this thing so much that I know I'm not doing the engine mounts any good. I can see the dowels from under the car, I tried heating up the area around them and also soaked them in PB blaster with no improvement. There's just no movement. There's no room to fit anything in to pry them apart. I have a crowbar that I've wedged in the casting of the trans case against the subframe and with the amount of force I'm putting on there, I'm just amazed that it's this stuck. I keep looking for another bolt but I've looked at subaru diagrams of the assembly and they match up exactly with what I've removed, and all the DIY guides show the same thing.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

Brace the engine (ratchet straps to suspension, something like that) to keep the engine from moving - if it's static, more force will go into the joint between engine and tranny.

Are you hitting it really hard? As McTinkerson said, it's really surprising how much force it actually takes to do generally do it.

I don't entirely love this idea, but can you attach something to the driveshaft flange and apply a hammer to that end? I'm thinking either bolt a length of metal to the flange or wedge something like a pickle fork on the flange, then apply hammer toward the back of the car. Something like:

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

You've got a really weird version of mspaint.

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004

Krakkles posted:

Brace the engine (ratchet straps to suspension, something like that) to keep the engine from moving - if it's static, more force will go into the joint between engine and tranny.

Are you hitting it really hard? As McTinkerson said, it's really surprising how much force it actually takes to do generally do it.

I don't entirely love this idea, but can you attach something to the driveshaft flange and apply a hammer to that end? I'm thinking either bolt a length of metal to the flange or wedge something like a pickle fork on the flange, then apply hammer toward the back of the car. Something like:



Holy poo poo that's a great idea, I'll try that tomorrow

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
Do not do that unless you want to replace your trans output shaft bearings next. It's a great way to put flat spots on every roller or ball.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

kastein posted:

Do not do that unless you want to replace your trans output shaft bearings next. It's a great way to put flat spots on every roller or ball.
Ratchet strap a 4x4 (the wood, not the vehicle) to the transmission body, hit that toward the back of the car?

human garbage bag
Jan 8, 2020

by Fluffdaddy
Can an older Porsche, for example a 2006 911S, be serviced at a regular mechanic, like Meineke?

McTinkerson
Jul 5, 2007

Dreaming of Shock Diamonds


human garbage bag posted:

Can an older Porsche, for example a 2006 911S, be serviced at a regular mechanic, like Meineke?

Brakes, fluids, etc. Sure.
ECM specific stuff that will need a Durametric or similar computer, probably not.
You would be better off with an independent local shop that usually works on VW/Audis.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.

human garbage bag posted:

Can an older Porsche, for example a 2006 911S, be serviced at a regular mechanic, like Meineke?

Take it to the dodge viper dealer op

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

human garbage bag posted:

Can an older Porsche, for example a 2006 911S, be serviced at a regular mechanic, like Meineke?

you own a 911. don't take it to a loving Mieneke. i wouldn't take a dog poo poo Cavalier to a Meineke.

the most expensive thing you can do to a high perf car is have someone gently caress up routine servicing through ignorance. porsche indy specialist #1 choice, generic Nazimobile specialist #2 choice, generic eurocar specialist #3 choice.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
Y'all are falling for the lovely low effort troll. Again.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

kastein posted:

Y'all are falling for the lovely low effort troll. Again.

How anyone doesn't have them on ignore after the last posts in here is just baffling.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



kastein posted:

Y'all are falling for the lovely low effort troll. Again.

It's right there in the name!

tactlessbastard
Feb 4, 2001

Godspeed, post
Fun Shoe
So, my current floor jack will only barely raise my NC enough for me to get under it (because it has the ride height of a suburban lol).

It's also kinds lovely from years of using it on a pebbled driveway. What's a good jack recommendation?

Kavros
May 18, 2011

sleep sleep sleep
fly fly post post
sleep sleep sleep
is there a place to find ratings of cars based on height, general visibility, and sight lines? i had an older Honda CRV which kicked it some time ago and have been going through a slate of loaners and i notice they all just feel more ... cramped. I like to be tall and see lots of sunshine and road. I was thinking of maybe getting a 4runner but it also seems cramped and I wonder what other options I have.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
you have to sit in cars. nothing is going to be able to accurately describe the sightlines of a car in your particular driving position in your particular body. sorry. In general everything will feel more cramped than it did a couple decades ago because beltines are higher due to crash safety standards and such.

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004

kastein posted:

Do not do that unless you want to replace your trans output shaft bearings next. It's a great way to put flat spots on every roller or ball.

Thanks for your input, I'm glad you said that before I had a chance to make things worse for myself. Still no luck with this and today is my last day to work on it for 4 or 5 days. I think I need to try a longer pry bar, but there just isn't a lot of room for something longer than my crowbar.

Kavros
May 18, 2011

sleep sleep sleep
fly fly post post
sleep sleep sleep

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

you have to sit in cars. nothing is going to be able to accurately describe the sightlines of a car in your particular driving position in your particular body. sorry. In general everything will feel more cramped than it did a couple decades ago because beltines are higher due to crash safety standards and such.

So if my standard is like a 2004 CRV I can just kiss that kind of openness goodbye, but in exchange might not die in grody crashes?

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.

two_beer_bishes posted:

Thanks for your input, I'm glad you said that before I had a chance to make things worse for myself. Still no luck with this and today is my last day to work on it for 4 or 5 days. I think I need to try a longer pry bar, but there just isn't a lot of room for something longer than my crowbar.

No problem, I learned this the hard way on a few wheel bearings years ago. Where are you located? If you're near central mass I can swing by and see if fresh eyes notice something you missed after looking at it 149 times.

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004

kastein posted:

No problem, I learned this the hard way on a few wheel bearings years ago. Where are you located? If you're near central mass I can swing by and see if fresh eyes notice something you missed after looking at it 149 times.

SE Michigan, thanks for the offer though. I going out of town so I'm hoping that when I come back, it'll be like a fresh pair of eyes. Otherwise I do have a friend who is really experienced with working on old stuff, at the very least he'll hopefully have some better tools, but he's elderly and I don't want to get him sick if I pick something up while I'm gone.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

tactlessbastard posted:

So, my current floor jack will only barely raise my NC enough for me to get under it (because it has the ride height of a suburban lol).

It's also kinds lovely from years of using it on a pebbled driveway. What's a good jack recommendation?

Hard to go wrong with Harbor Freight here. Daytona jacks are basically legendary: https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/jacks-jack-stands/3-ton-professional-rapid-pump-floor-jack-black-64779.html

They've got 4-ton, low-profile, long-reach, and combinations of all of those too.

Outrail
Jan 4, 2009

www.sapphicrobotica.com
:roboluv: :love: :roboluv:

nitsuga posted:

Hard to go wrong with Harbor Freight here. Daytona jacks are basically legendary: https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/jacks-jack-stands/3-ton-professional-rapid-pump-floor-jack-black-64779.html

They've got 4-ton, low-profile, long-reach, and combinations of all of those too.

Ghetto option is get whatever cheap bottle jack you can find and the two of them in combination with bricks and logs to jack it progressively higher.

Not ideal but it's cheap

(USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)

Mod Note:

Elmnt80 posted:

A) Do not ever do this with a bottle jack.
B) Do not ever use a brick in this situation.

You stand a decent chance of dropping the vehicle, possibly onto yourself. Then being maimed/dying.

Somebody fucked around with this message at 23:20 on Mar 27, 2021

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010

nitsuga posted:

Hard to go wrong with Harbor Freight here. Daytona jacks are basically legendary: https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/jacks-jack-stands/3-ton-professional-rapid-pump-floor-jack-black-64779.html

They've got 4-ton, low-profile, long-reach, and combinations of all of those too.

The Aluminum Rapid Pump "Racing" jacks are also excellent for low cars. I have the 1.5t for the Fit/Civic and take it with me to the track for tire changes.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Outrail posted:

Ghetto option is get whatever cheap bottle jack you can find and the two of them in combination with bricks and logs to jack it progressively higher.

Not ideal but it's cheap


What? That's a lot less than "not ideal" and more like "why the hell would anyone suggest something this dangerous and amazingly stupid".

Elmnt80
Dec 30, 2012


Outrail posted:

Ghetto option is get whatever cheap bottle jack you can find and the two of them in combination with bricks and logs to jack it progressively higher.

Not ideal but it's cheap

(USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)

A) Do not ever do this with a bottle jack.
B) Do not ever use a brick in this situation.

Please do not recommend things that stand a good chance of killing other users, particularly in this thread.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Beach Bum posted:

The Aluminum Rapid Pump "Racing" jacks are also excellent for low cars. I have the 1.5t for the Fit/Civic and take it with me to the track for tire changes.

Yes, and significantly lighter if you need to carry the jack. Well worth the premium if that’s in the picture OP. Get some jack stands too if you don’t already have at least two you trust.

simplefish
Mar 28, 2011

So long, and thanks for all the fish gallbladdΣrs!


My strap wrench broke almost immediately whrn I used it.

I tried putting screws in the end of the oil filter but they just bent when I put a lever between them.

Adjustable plumbing grips worked for 1/4 turn but slipped

So I screwed a screw into the side to give the grips purchase and got the filter off - finally!

tactlessbastard
Feb 4, 2001

Godspeed, post
Fun Shoe
Can't answer, dead under a pile of bricks

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Elmnt80
Dec 30, 2012


nitsuga posted:

Hard to go wrong with Harbor Freight here. Daytona jacks are basically legendary: https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/jacks-jack-stands/3-ton-professional-rapid-pump-floor-jack-black-64779.html

They've got 4-ton, low-profile, long-reach, and combinations of all of those too.

I've got a low pro, long reach daytona is eye searing green. I've only used it once so far, but it was super nice to use with my ground hugging mazda wagon on coilovers. It does get harder to lift as you get further up, but not unusably so.

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