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Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Without "rocking" the appliance, what is the best way/how do I jack up one corner so I can

1) adjust the adjustable screw leg on my washer/dryer
2) put a shim under the corner of my fridge so it stops mauling the top of my roomba because my kitchen floor is just barely out of level in that exact spot
3) Jack up some of my other furniture

Also most of our furniture on the hardwood furniture has threaded adjustable legs, they only adjust about 1/4-1/2 inch. I'm thinking about ordering some new threaded rod and replacing all the feet on my furniture to bring it up 5/8 - 3/4" higher, so that the Roomba and Braava can get under there and keep the dust bunnies under control

I found a hydraulic jack that's 51mm tall (2") but it's almost $200, plus I don't have that much clearance on the fridge and large appliances

I guess a 1/4" piece of oak and some kind of adjustable fulcrum?

Hadlock fucked around with this message at 23:42 on Mar 31, 2021

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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Hadlock posted:

Without "rocking" the appliance, what is the best way/how do I jack up one corner so I can

1) adjust the adjustable screw leg on my washer/dryer
2) put a shim under the corner of my fridge so it stops mauling the top of my roomba because my kitchen floor is just barely out of level in that exact spot
3) Jack up some of my other furniture

Also most of our furniture on the hardwood furniture has threaded adjustable legs, they only adjust about 1/4-1/2 inch. I'm thinking about ordering some new threaded rod and replacing all the feet on my furniture to bring it up 5/8 - 3/4" higher, so that the Roomba and Braava can get under there and keep the dust bunnies under control

I found a hydraulic jack that's 51mm tall (2") but it's almost $200, plus I don't have that much clearance on the fridge and large appliances

I guess a 1/4" piece of oak and some kind of adjustable fulcrum?

1.) it has wrench flats on it. Use them.

2.) a shim and a mallet. White ones are typically non-marking in case you hit the floor or whatever and you should be able to find one cheap at your local hardware or big box store.

3.) don't know what you mean. If you're talking about replacing the feet on it just......roll it over 90 degrees.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
You got it on the last line. A scrap of 1x4 and a small pry bar. You'll have plenty of leverage even on a 1' long pry bar to lift a corner of any appliance. The block can help you position it and not mar the surface.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

What about the back where it's drat near impossible to reach

Way overthinking this, I almost want to put the whole thing on some kind of pre-leveled, vibration resistant, greased sled that slides out, and I can lock in place. The back and sides only have an inch or two of clearance on each side

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
Yeah dog you're just going to have to pull it out to adjust the back legs...if they adjust in the first place. Them the breaks.

They're easier to adjust when you unload them by lifting it up and taking the weight off, but that's where the tricks end.

El Mero Mero
Oct 13, 2001

I was told by my jurisdiction that for some structural work to expect the cost of the permit to come out to 10% of the cost of the project and take a few months to process.

California is also just extra hosed in the way people think about permits too because the uncertainty around reassessment triggers is a nightmare.

Like...if you had certainty that a project would not trigger a reassessment you might go forward with it, but they can't tell you until you're done.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

El Mero Mero posted:

I was told by my jurisdiction that for some structural work to expect the cost of the permit to come out to 10% of the cost of the project and take a few months to process.

California is also just extra hosed in the way people think about permits too because the uncertainty around reassessment triggers is a nightmare.

Like...if you had certainty that a project would not trigger a reassessment you might go forward with it, but they can't tell you until you're done.

You shouldn't wind up with an assessment unless you change the habitable square feet. Generally. Prop 13 has your back here. Just because you gut and redo your house, as long as you have the same number of bathrooms and stoves and what not it should be all like for like. Even if you completely gut the place.

If your jurisdiction tries to reassess you hire a lawyer.

Elem7
Apr 12, 2003
der
Dinosaur Gum

As already covered you may be overthinking this whole thing but for the record if you need to lift something heavy with little clearance you probably want one of these. Little cheaper than $200.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073XL88HP

ntan1
Apr 29, 2009

sempai noticed me

El Mero Mero posted:

I was told by my jurisdiction that for some structural work to expect the cost of the permit to come out to 10% of the cost of the project and take a few months to process.

California is also just extra hosed in the way people think about permits too because the uncertainty around reassessment triggers is a nightmare.

Like...if you had certainty that a project would not trigger a reassessment you might go forward with it, but they can't tell you until you're done.

You should check with an architect or structural engineer in that jurisdiction.

In the City of Mountain View, my project with structural changes (7 Glulam beams, underpinning, etc.), remodel creating two new bathrooms, removing walls, kitchen, and consisting of 3 bedrooms consisted of the following:

Valuation: $98500 (totally an under-report)

City:
$3550 Permit Fees ($1033 Plan Check, rest was Permit)

Permit contains: Building/Electrical/Mechanical/Plumbing.


$4500 Structural Engineering Fee
$11,000 Architect Fees
$500 Special Inspection by Structural Engineer.


Additionally, my total supplemental assessment is $31,000. Don't worry about the taxes that much.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Elem7 posted:

As already covered you may be overthinking this whole thing but for the record if you need to lift something heavy with little clearance you probably want one of these. Little cheaper than $200.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073XL88HP

Thread delivers

PageMaster
Nov 4, 2009
But sure if this goes in a home owner, landscaping, or wiring thread so figured I'd try them all.

Checking around our house after closing and found what appears to be some wires running through a tree. My best guess is there is to be control wires for something and the tree grew around it, after which someone cut the line to maybe run new wiring elsewhere (maybe sprinkler control related?), Buy that's a complete guess. Wife took a couple pictures and I can't really identify anything just from pics, and inspector and seller didn't notice it. Any guess I'm what we might be looking at here?

Queen Victorian
Feb 21, 2018

Yeah looks like some wiring (maybe for outdoor lighting or something) that the tree subsumed over the years. If it’s not connected to anything then no big deal - cut off the dangling ends to improve appearances.

My mulberry tree has grafted itself onto the old wire fence in the backyard. I’ve otherwise seen plenty of trees subsume fences, signs, chains, etc. It’s what trees do if you don’t pay attention to the poo poo you put near them for a decade or more.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

PageMaster posted:

But sure if this goes in a home owner, landscaping, or wiring thread so figured I'd try them all.

Checking around our house after closing and found what appears to be some wires running through a tree. My best guess is there is to be control wires for something and the tree grew around it, after which someone cut the line to maybe run new wiring elsewhere (maybe sprinkler control related?), Buy that's a complete guess. Wife took a couple pictures and I can't really identify anything just from pics, and inspector and seller didn't notice it. Any guess I'm what we might be looking at here?

That's pretty standard looking low volt landscape wiring. They probably had an uplight mounted on that tree at some point....maybe even used the tree as a platform doe a down light.

Either way, its' fine. You can leave it or trim it up. The tree doesn't care anymore.

vs Dinosaurs
Mar 14, 2009
I remember some solar chat a couple of pages back. I’m about to put an offer in on a house with leased panels. The contract is with SolarCity and the panels are Tesla(‘s relabeled third party whatever). In September the lease holder will have an option to buy the panels and get out of the lease.

Anyone have experience with this? Taking over the lease is straightforward and a requirement from the seller. Wondering what lurking pains in the rear end inevitably exist.

devmd01
Mar 7, 2006

Elektronik
Supersonik
Oh god dammit



install date on it is 2010, so right on schedule!!

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

devmd01 posted:

Oh god dammit



install date on it is 2010, so right on schedule!!

F


At least it's very nicely set up to not cause damage.

PageMaster
Nov 4, 2009

vs Dinosaurs posted:

I remember some solar chat a couple of pages back. I’m about to put an offer in on a house with leased panels. The contract is with SolarCity and the panels are Tesla(‘s relabeled third party whatever). In September the lease holder will have an option to buy the panels and get out of the lease.

Anyone have experience with this? Taking over the lease is straightforward and a requirement from the seller. Wondering what lurking pains in the rear end inevitably exist.

Ask the sellers if the solar covers their electricity so you have an idea of what extra costs you're walking into and can prep. One house we lost on also had a lease to transfer, but provided their monthly electrical bills showing that the solar completely covered their electrical requirement which made it easier to swallow the transfer of the lease which cost maybe a third of the average utility bill in the area.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

devmd01 posted:

Oh god dammit



install date on it is 2010, so right on schedule!!

Did you ever change the anode?

devmd01
Mar 7, 2006

Elektronik
Supersonik
We’ve been in this house for two years so I’m gonna go with no.

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



Sorry buddy. At least water heater is the cheapest major home mechanical / appliance I can think of.

My new condo's gonna have 20 year old gas furnace and A/C, so I'm gonna call some HVAC company and see if I can set up a yearly maintenance to catch up on the prior owners I'm sure not doing that.

Luckily the water heater's brand new so I'll have a chance to do maintenance on it, whatever the manual says. It's in a tiny rear end closet due to condo so I'm not sure if it would even be possible to change the anode in that space without disconnecting and moving/tipping the tank.

devmd01
Mar 7, 2006

Elektronik
Supersonik


They knocked it out in 4 hours.

Maggie Fletcher
Jul 19, 2009
Getting brunch is more important to me than other peoples lives.

devmd01 posted:



They knocked it out in 4 hours.

That's gorgeous. We're thinking about doing a tankless in our townhouse, which is in the kitchen, and using the leftover space to store...whatever random poo poo will fit. How much space does it save, roughly (if any)? Looks...not insignificant.

Mr. Crow
May 22, 2008

Snap City mayor for life




Can I just super glue or the equivalent (which would be?) to fix this?

This is probably going to be a recurring problem until we can get someone to redo the siding. The builder didn't space our siding far enough apart according to the home inspector (there is some bulging at seems all along one of the walls), sellers fixed some major obvious spots before we bought it so it's either wack a mole or redo everything.

Deceptive Thinker
Oct 5, 2005

I'll rip out your optics!

Mr. Crow posted:





Can I just super glue or the equivalent (which would be?) to fix this?

This is probably going to be a recurring problem until we can get someone to redo the siding. The builder didn't space our siding far enough apart according to the home inspector (there is some bulging at seems all along one of the walls), sellers fixed some major obvious spots before we bought it so it's either wack a mole or redo everything.

Silicone caulk

pmchem
Jan 22, 2010


devmd01 posted:



They knocked it out in 4 hours.

this just makes me think of how at the place we previously rented, the water heater failed, and the landlords had it replaced. but the contractors left the old one just sitting nearby in the basement -- perhaps because the stairs were so hosed up they were afraid to remove it up the stairs (who knows).

so happy to be out of that place and lol @ the landlords having the most screwed up basement I've ever lived in

BigPaddy
Jun 30, 2008

That night we performed the rite and opened the gate.
Halfway through, I went to fix us both a coke float.
By the time I got back, he'd gone insane.
Plus, he'd left the gate open and there was evil everywhere.


The flex seal family of products!

devmd01
Mar 7, 2006

Elektronik
Supersonik
Also I am the thread title, because it is time to pressure wash all the things...starting with about 300ft of wooden fence to prep it for re-staining :negative:



It’s been an expensive couple of days! There is no way I was gonna get anything but a Honda engine, the GCV160 in my mower is still going strong after 9 years.

Sundae
Dec 1, 2005
A quick shout-out to the wonderful man at Home Depot who tried to tell me that sacrificial anodes in hot water heaters are irreplaceable and I need an entire new unit. :lol:

(They didn't sell any; I'm going to have to find somewhere else to get one.)

ChineseBuffet
Mar 7, 2003

Sundae posted:

A quick shout-out to the wonderful man at Home Depot who tried to tell me that sacrificial anodes in hot water heaters are irreplaceable and I need an entire new unit. :lol:

(They didn't sell any; I'm going to have to find somewhere else to get one.)

I got my Rheem one at Amazon a few years back. Obviously there's lots of off-brand junk to avoid.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Sundae posted:

A quick shout-out to the wonderful man at Home Depot who tried to tell me that sacrificial anodes in hot water heaters are irreplaceable and I need an entire new unit. :lol:

(They didn't sell any; I'm going to have to find somewhere else to get one.)

Your local plumbing supply house is the best bet if they will sell retail. Otherwise, yeah...amazon.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006


Yours for the cost of shipping. (otherwise I'm throwing it away) don't remember what it cost originally.

El Mero Mero
Oct 13, 2001


Something to submit to trees eating things

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


Motronic posted:

Your local plumbing supply house is the best bet if they will sell retail. Otherwise, yeah...amazon.

We had an amazing local plumbing shop that had anything and everything. My furnace went and they sent me home with every possible part and a space heater because I had a baby at home. All I had to do was return what didn't fix the problem. They even did this on an off day.

Now they are owned by a regional plumbing supply and will not sell anything but Milwaukee tools to non-contractors. I purchase through work occasionally but I think they're on to me.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Yooper posted:

We had an amazing local plumbing shop that had anything and everything. My furnace went and they sent me home with every possible part and a space heater because I had a baby at home. All I had to do was return what didn't fix the problem. They even did this on an off day.

Places like that are awesomse.

Yooper posted:

Now they are owned by a regional plumbing supply and will not sell anything but Milwaukee tools to non-contractors. I purchase through work occasionally but I think they're on to me.

:smith:

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Elem7 posted:

As already covered you may be overthinking this whole thing but for the record if you need to lift something heavy with little clearance you probably want one of these. Little cheaper than $200.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073XL88HP

This is fantastic, I've had it for 30 minutes and already leveled every piece of furniture in the house + the fridge, and I didn't have to take anything off of the shelves/entertainment system, unload the fridge etc

Motronic posted:

3.) don't know what you mean. If you're talking about replacing the feet on it just......roll it over 90 degrees.

lol

meanolmrcloud
Apr 5, 2004

rock out with your stock out

We have squeaky, original to 1953 wood floors. This wasn’t really a problem until a baby came, and the wrong squeak at the wrong time can set back a bed time. I’ve seen those jack-type things you can screw to the joists in the basement, and I’ve also seen people hammering shims between the joist and subfloor. Short of putting nails from the top down, which it looks like someone tried to do on at least one spot, what else can be done here? I’m going to try hammering a few shims in to see if that does anything, and it seems harmless enough.

Bird in a Blender
Nov 17, 2005

It's amazing what they can do with computers these days.

I have not tried shims, but I’ll say absolutely do not nail the boards down from the top. It probably won’t fix your squeak, and it will make your life hell if you ever want to refinish.

If it’s any consolation, your kid will eventually be able to sleep on their own and squeaky floors won’t be a concern. I went through the same thing two years ago.

hobbez
Mar 1, 2012

Don't care. Just do not care. We win, you lose. You do though, you seem to care very much

I'm going to go ride my mountain bike, later nerds.
Speaking of wood floors, some products that are just “mop on, quick dry” claim to clean, restore, and protect. Is there any truth to the protection aspect? Or any product that can add some protections from my dogs paws without a full re-sand and poly (which is probably more then is needed at this time).

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


Speaking of hardwood floors, I finally got to uncover mine in the living room today, as this project is now officially D O N E

Some before and afters:





More pics here https://imgur.com/a/Mk2DE8r

It turned out so good :unsmith:

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Referee
Aug 25, 2004

"Winning is great, sure, but if you are really going to do something in life, the secret is learning how to lose. Nobody goes undefeated all the time. If you can pick up after a crushing defeat, and go on to win again, you are going to be a champion someday."
(Wilma Rudolph)

Sirotan posted:

Speaking of hardwood floors, I finally got to uncover mine in the living room today, as this project is now officially D O N E

It turned out so good :unsmith:

Beautiful job. I really like the green paint too. Not a color that would have been on my radar but that looks SHARP.

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