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Man that's some good info. I had no idea they could still sell it. Gonna be extra careful with the S10 exhaust gaskets I ordered.
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Apr 1, 2021 06:35
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Man this pile of dust from doing brake sure does look... *brings out an old CC to line stuff up* *SNOOOOOOOOOOOOOOORT* 
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Apr 1, 2021 07:38
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Power steering pump on a '94 Subaru SVX, but I'm thinking since it's a PS pump it's a more general issue. When I turn near full lock I get a squealing from the PS pump. I checked the fluid level and it has plenty of fluid, fluid seems fresh, is there anything to check before I find a rebuilt pump for it somewhere? I guess belt tension maybe?
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Apr 1, 2021 16:51
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Power steering pump on a '94 Subaru SVX, but I'm thinking since it's a PS pump it's a more general issue. When I turn near full lock I get a squealing from the PS pump. I checked the fluid level and it has plenty of fluid, fluid seems fresh, is there anything to check before I find a rebuilt pump for it somewhere? I guess belt tension maybe? I've had this happen twice, once on an 85 and again on a 94. Squealing when turning full lock. Both times it was simply the tension on the belt. I'd certainly check that first before thinking about replacing the pump.
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Apr 1, 2021 17:05
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Thanks, will do. Sure hope that's it, although lol if the shop I took it to for an inspection when I bought it 200 miles ago didn't realize it was the belt.
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Apr 1, 2021 17:42
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STR posted:Man this pile of dust from doing brake sure does look... On the bright side, you lungs are probably fire proof now.
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Apr 1, 2021 19:07
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Mr. Wiggles posted:On the bright side, you lungs are probably fire proof now. i.e. not at all
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Apr 1, 2021 19:18
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Moving day started with a surprise - the car was keeled over on the front passenger side (apologies - no photo). I tried hooking my small 12v pump up but it never got past 0psi. Turns out that tire had completely collapsed - I'm going to guess it actually burst some time since my last post as we could see steel threads through a hole in the tire where a block of tread was completely absent! We moved brake fluid through the system (a lot of fluid) and got the car to the point where we were happy to drive it to its new home about 3 miles away.  The engine is actually running pretty well now - it seems I was probably a bit off on my estimate as to when the car was last run (I think I said 5 years but it's more like 2). Still obviously going to need a lot of attention, but maybe that explains why it was merely difficult to start rather than an absolute pain in the rear end. We sail the ocean blue, and our saucy ship's a beauty...  There was concern the car wouldn't negotiate the ramp to this garage owing to the comedic length behind the rear axle but it turned out to not be an issue.  Reviewing this photo I realized that there's a light out. Presumably that's a sealed beam that's in need of replacement?  Lookin' fine...    In other news this was the first time I got a look underneath the car - I've got no experience with body-on-frame cars like this but it looks like maybe there's been some floorpan repair work (a section of body which was notably "different" to the body around it). I would guess it was a rust patch/remediation, except that the frame was in beautiful shape... so maybe that's just how it is? I mean, there was no telltale "rust" spotting/blotching, if that makes sense.
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Apr 2, 2021 02:34
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sarcastx posted:We sail the ocean blue, and our saucy ship's a beauty... God, I generally have no nostalgia for land yachts but gently caress this is awesome and I'm proper jealous.
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Apr 2, 2021 02:46
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From the last time that Cadillac really meant something.
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Apr 2, 2021 05:31
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LeeMajors posted:God, I generally have no nostalgia for land yachts but gently caress this is awesome and I'm proper jealous. I feel like the best way to describe it for myself is I have no desire to own one but I'm glad they still exist.
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Apr 2, 2021 07:48
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I feel like the best way to describe it for myself is I have no desire to own one but I'm glad they still exist. Yeah that's about the size of it for me too - I mean, the thing is huge and there's no way I'd have any place to put it (my tiny garage is just barely long enough for my XK8) and I do like modern conveniences like ABS and... seatbelts... but my buddy's got grand plans of flopping around town with friends in the front & back and hell, I'll be along for the ride!
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Apr 2, 2021 13:16
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Krakkles posted:Brace the engine (ratchet straps to suspension, something like that) to keep the engine from moving - if it's static, more force will go into the joint between engine and tranny. Update: still stuck, but I haven't had much time to work on it this week. What would be the worst thing to happen if I tried to drill out the guide pins?
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Apr 2, 2021 23:12
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Is there a straightforward fix to this break in my exhaust? I can't even really tell what is going on with it. It's a 2007 Saturn Vue V6 AWD if that matters. This joint is between the flex pipe and what I think is the pics: https://imgur.com/a/asBYpjf sleepy gary fucked around with this message at 04:08 on Apr 3, 2021 |
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Apr 3, 2021 03:19
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Yeah. Have your exhaust replaced at a muffler shop. That is gone.
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Apr 3, 2021 03:24
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Yup that exhaust looks shot If money is tight, heres a tip. Find a muffler shop in a not great part of town. They should be able to patch something up thatll get you by for a while. Bring cash.
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Apr 3, 2021 03:45
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How's the rest of the car? I see some rust there
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Apr 3, 2021 03:47
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^ ^ ^ I live in an area with salted roads in winter, but this one's not too bad yet. My daily driver is not long for the world though due to its rust. It's frustrating. It's just that one joint that's all rotted out. The rest is fine. I've got a guy I can bring it to but I'm trying to do my own repairs more and more.
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Apr 3, 2021 03:48
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two_beer_bishes posted:Update: still stuck, but I haven't had much time to work on it this week. What would be the worst thing to happen if I tried to drill out the guide pins? Worst case? You drill off center or too big and can't put new ones in, which means new block and/or transmission time, because those dowels very precisely - like under ten thou precisely - align the engine and trans castings so your crank and input shaft are collinear and don't put the gears in the trans out of proper mesh, wearing them incorrectly and reducing their effective torque rating. I really wish I could get eyes on this because it's gotta be something simple or just not enough (carefully targeted) violence.
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Apr 3, 2021 05:24
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I have had several parts of my Jeep exhaust literally falling off and smacking into the side of my car multiple times. Both times, I took the car to different "spanish smart"* exhaust shops, and I got everything welded back together. I paid $70 in cash, gave a $20 to the kid who did all the welding, and went on my way as they stopped to get lunch. *Quote from my Salvadorean coworker who recommended me the shop after describing how they fixed his cat by welding in a generic one for $300 instead of getting an OEM one that would be $1000+. If you're on Long Island by some small chance I could send you thr shop I used.
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Apr 3, 2021 05:30
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sleepy gary posted:^ ^ ^ I live in an area with salted roads in winter, but this one's not too bad yet. My daily driver is not long for the world though due to its rust. It's frustrating. That's why I recommend a muffler shop, they should be able to weld new flanges on for not too much money, and save your cat and downpipe.
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Apr 3, 2021 06:40
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My car is reporting a system lean code. I found a monster crack in the air intake tube (between filter and engine, after maf). I ordered the part should be here Monday. Is the process just replace part, clear code, wait and see? I'm a bit nervous because I found 10 tons of marmot poo poo in there but cant see that they ate anything. I guess it'll just code again if there's a chewed hose or something?
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Apr 3, 2021 07:54
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sleepy gary posted:^ ^ ^ I live in an area with salted roads in winter, but this one's not too bad yet. My daily driver is not long for the world though due to its rust. It's frustrating. You're gonna need a way to cut that section out and (preferably) weld in a new joint (or just use hose clamps to wrap a couple of cans with the ends cut off around it). Cheap shop will probably cut it out and just weld in a new section of pipe for not a whole lot. pumped up for school posted:My car is reporting a system lean code. I found a monster crack in the air intake tube (between filter and engine, after maf). I ordered the part should be here Monday. Pretty much, yeah. With that big crack, the MAF thinks a lot less air is getting into the engine. You could unplug the MAF for now to force the car to run a bit on the rich side (it should rely on the MAP instead). You'll then have a code for the MAF as well, but it's better than the engine running lean.
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Apr 3, 2021 12:50
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kastein posted:Worst case? You drill off center or too big and can't put new ones in, which means new block and/or transmission time, because those dowels very precisely - like under ten thou precisely - align the engine and trans castings so your crank and input shaft are collinear and don't put the gears in the trans out of proper mesh, wearing them incorrectly and reducing their effective torque rating. This is unbelievably frustrating. All I wanted to do was replace the throw out bearing with the updated version before it grenades itself and leaves me stranded. Purely a preventative maintenance thing. It's my summer car so it's not insured yet for the year, but now that it's nice out I really would like to be able to drive it. I've been waiting on some suspension parts to come in too, so having it out of commission for a week or two wasn't going to be the end of the world. Now I have all the parts I was planning on installing before insuring it and getting it back on the road, but I'm still stumped by this drat thing. At this point I'm seriously considering just bolting it all back together and driving it until I have another week or so off when I'd have the time to haul it to my friend's shop and get it up on his lift.
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Apr 3, 2021 16:05
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Would a 2011 Prius with 222k miles be worth it for 4k? How much maintenance would I expect to do in the first few years?
Its Chocolate fucked around with this message at 17:05 on Apr 3, 2021 |
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Apr 3, 2021 17:00
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can anyone with body work / painting experience offer their 2-cents on this: i went to look at an old volvo today that was someone else's project but they passed away during the middle of it and its been sitting for 3 years since. this already seems like a terrible idea but im compelled to plow ahead because the shell spent most of its life between CA and FL, its a manual coupe, and we already own an sedan of the same year (but its an automatic that spent most of its life between canada and MN). heres a quick look-over: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l2MaTKgfORU whats a ballpark estimate for getting this bodywork finished and painted by someone else? ive got a few feelers out that rn but i highly value goonsay. id try my own hand at it but im not sure i can secure a suitable garage space, though.
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Apr 3, 2021 19:06
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stone soup posted:whats a ballpark estimate for getting this bodywork finished and painted by someone else? ive got a few feelers out that rn but i highly value goonsay. id try my own hand at it but im not sure i can secure a suitable garage space, though. Seriously? A lot more than the car is worth or will be worth. It depends on the level of quality you want and how much you expect to be disassembled/reassembled for you. Most of the mud on that car that I saw when skipping through the video looked awful and just needs to be taken right the hell back off. This is a 5 figure job for anything of passable quality.
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Apr 3, 2021 19:35
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lol its a 140 series; it'll never be worth much of anything and ive no illusions about that. but having someone fix the trashy mudwork and flash-rust before then sending it off to chain like maaco is what i have in mind. or would i be better off with a bunch of youtube resources and (trying) to fix that stuff on my own? i have no issue piecing the car back together because ive got mechanical experience, but prepping for paint would be new for me. i suppose i could just rustoleum it in the driveway with a roller.. stone soup fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Apr 3, 2021 |
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Apr 3, 2021 20:29
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That car is a project for someone who enjoys doing bodywork and paint. Even done at home, it will cost too much. If you really want a 140 you are better off waiting until a clean one comes up for sale as it will cost multiple times less than this one will to be painted, assembled and driveable. What you're looking at there is a parts car/something that belongs in the junkyard. Not everything is worth saving.
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Apr 3, 2021 21:21
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I spent $6200 getting a car painted a Maaco; that was a Presidential paint job at $2200 (2-stage paint) plus 46-hours of body labor to clean it up. If you have a Maaco nearby, show them this video and see how much labor they estimate to clean it up before painting it. This of course does not include reinstalling the glazing, trim, and other peripherals; you'll be doing that. But if you're prepared to spend six to ten grand getting the body as close to the way you want it for as reasonable a time & cost as possible, that would be the route. Figure on buffering another five grand for tires, brakes, and the inevitable unplanned issue. If you have a high school with a body shop, or a tech school nearby, they may take it on for a lot less. I've never been that lucky, though. The easiest thing is what Motronic suggested: find one in good condition that requires as little as possible. I have done both, and this is the easiest route. Unless you want the full car-restoration experience, it would be cheaper in the long run, too. But I've been in your shoes: desireable car, appears to just need a nudge to finish it, it's an adventure. Those types of projects are not investments, they're commitments. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 01:35 on Apr 4, 2021 |
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Apr 4, 2021 01:32
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PainterofCrap posted:The easiest thing is what Motronic suggested: find one in good condition that requires as little as possible. I have done both, and this is the easiest route. Unless you want the full car-restoration experience, it would be cheaper in the long run, too. Ya know what I didn't really key in on when I posted that you may have also similarly missed? stone soup posted:id try my own hand at it but im not sure i can secure a suitable garage space, though. If you don't have the space and tools to even do the mechanical work on something like this you're just in a fever dream. It's all over, forget about it.
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Apr 4, 2021 01:48
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PainterofCrap posted:I spent $6200 getting a car painted a Maaco; that was a Presidential paint job at $2200 (2-stage paint) plus 46-hours of body labor to clean it up. If you have a Maaco nearby, show them this video and see how much labor they estimate to clean it up before painting it. This of course does not include reinstalling the glazing, trim, and other peripherals; you'll be doing that. But if you're prepared to spend six to ten grand getting the body as close to the way you want it for as reasonable a time & cost as possible, that would be the route. thank you; thats super valuable and exactly the experience i was hoping would be shared, especially having followed your build Motronic posted:Ya know what I didn't really key in on when I posted that you may have also similarly missed? im not the clearest communicator but what i meant is i have enough mechanical experience (and 10mm sockets) to be dangerous to myself and others but nothing auto-body related (experience, large compressor, spray gun, etc). i can come across garage space but nothing that can be turned into a paint booth, either. edit; ya, im reluctant to admit its small bit of a fever-ish dream and i think thats because clean, rust-free swedish metal doesn't pass through these parts often. i suppose if i come around to making an offer its going to on a parts car at a parts car price. double edit: \/\/ lol touche \/\/ triple edit; choice color as well! stone soup fucked around with this message at 03:02 on Apr 4, 2021 |
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Apr 4, 2021 02:38
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stone soup posted:i can come across garage space but nothing that can be turned into a paint booth, either. If you think this is true you're just not trying hard enough. Because I absolutely painted a 944 in one bay of a gravel floor pole barn.  Using some seriously self-made "ventilation"  And I'm real happy with how it turned out. 
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Apr 4, 2021 02:53
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Thats wild. How did you keep the dirt out of the paint?
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Apr 4, 2021 04:27
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Soak the floor.
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Apr 4, 2021 12:43
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C-Bangin' it 
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nitsuga posted:Thats wild. How did you keep the dirt out of the paint? It was tarped past the extent of my "booth" plastic when I was actually painting.  You can see my furnace filter "output" setup on the bottom of the partially open garage door. The whole thing was janky as hell, but 13 years later and the paint is still on that car and looks fine. Motronic fucked around with this message at 14:52 on Apr 4, 2021 |
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Apr 4, 2021 14:49
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Motronic posted:It was tarped past the extent of my "booth" plastic when I was actually painting. That's my kind of janky. I see now how the first image was a precursor to this one. Always seems like spring is when I start getting inspired to do something like this myself. I think one of my neighbors had rigged up a booth in just one of the spots in his two-car garage for his 911. But anyway, that's cool and definitely proof of what you can do.
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Apr 4, 2021 15:02
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Motronic posted:If you think this is true you're just not trying hard enough. I seriously considered this for the Pontiac. I definitely have the room, and building the PVC frame - plastic 3-mil - yes, I could have pulled off the set-up. I have no gun- painting experience at all. I chickened out. I may set up for the lawn chairs to be re-painted, just to see if I can do it. At the moment I'm using a Testors airbrushing rig to do touch-up on the Pontiac. Baby steps.
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Apr 4, 2021 16:25
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PainterofCrap posted:I seriously considered this for the Pontiac. I definitely have the room, and building the PVC frame - plastic 3-mil - yes, I could have pulled off the set-up. You know this from painting other things, but every last place where the paint isn't great and where I had to do corrections (other than the hood because lol getting metallic flop right is HARD) was where I didn't have enough light. On this car that would mostly the lower parts of the passenger side. So of I were to do this again the #1 thing I would change is putting WAY more light around the car. You won't have time to move things around once you start spraying. It all goes so fast. You spend months preping and doing bodywork and then in a couple of hours the thing is primed. Then you give it a day and sand it, clean everything up again, etc. and spend 3 or 4 hours painting and it's all over. Except for the reassembly.
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Apr 4, 2021 16:39
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Apologies in advance if my question belongs in another thread, but it didnt seem to fit squarely into this thread or the car buying thread. Im looking for a radar detector recommendation. The Escort Max II in my wifes Insight is pretty much just an Acura detector with all the false alerts we get, and the 9500ix in my GT86 is even worse. Ive noticed that most of the false K/Ka-band pings from proximity sensors in luxury cars have a particular pattern to them, and I figure that if its prominent enough for me to notice without sophisticated tools then newer detectors have gotta be better about filtering those signals, right? Were primarily concerned with open road/highway performance (i.e., catching real radar signals early and ignoring false signals) because the bulk of our miles are clocked on long road trips. Urban performance is much less important to us, even though we live in a densely populated, signal-rich citywe rarely need to drive, and usually not far. As long as the unit calls out speed/red light cameras, thats all we need. No real price limit, but would prefer to keep it reasonable ($500-600), unless it *really* makes sense to spend more. Thanks!! new friend from school fucked around with this message at 19:33 on Apr 4, 2021 |
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Apr 4, 2021 19:31
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