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This is true, particularly on GM 2.2s and 2.4s. A friend did take a 2.4 past 300k (bought it new, 2009 Malibu LT, IIRC), but it jumped timing cruising down the highway, as you'd expect. Sprockets and chain were all fubar, and it was blowing a bit of blue smoke before that happened. Timing chain had started rattling a few months before.
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Mar 17, 2021 20:45
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Every Honda got touched today. You sneaky bastard.
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Mar 18, 2021 06:06
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Ah yes the famous single cell catalytic converter
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Mar 18, 2021 10:17
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Colostomy Bag posted:GM cable driven regulators get the crown for shittiness. Try replacing the regulator in a early 00's Mustang... Helped my friend replace the driver's side regulator on his... It isn't cable driven, but it is riveted in and the door panel only had 3 access holes not quite big enough to fit a hand in. Getting the regulator in and out required a carefully choreographed dance of collapsing, expanding, and rotating multiple times. As a bonus the motor can't come out while it is still attached to the regulator, so we had to remove it from the regulator (and later re-attach it!) while it was still inside the door. Really it was like solving one of those mind-bender puzzles. Took us about 3 hours for one loving door. I'm convinced the regulator was installed before the 2 halves of the door were assembled.
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Mar 18, 2021 15:53
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Ha, Ford must like riveting them in. Had to replace one in our expedition. Didn't have a rivet gun so used bolts to replace them so yeah I can somewhat feel your pain. I also like the constant fear of finger amputation when dealing with scissor ones.
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Mar 18, 2021 19:49
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C-Bangin' it 
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Replaced a suspension accelerometer on the German luxobarge. Easy fix, probably the simplest of all repairs one could do. Was able to source one for the paltry sum of $110. Woohoo. Here's hoping the other three don't poo poo the bed.
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Mar 20, 2021 19:36
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Wrong thread
SEKCobra fucked around with this message at 14:05 on Mar 21, 2021 |
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Mar 21, 2021 11:37
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I swapped out my winter tires for my all seasons on the BRZ and I reseated the rear window on my ranger because it was leaking. I also learned how to replace wheel studs because I had 2 break and 2 strip on me while swapping out the wheels. WTF.
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Mar 22, 2021 11:58
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Got the 2008 BMW 335i ready for driving. First step: Jack off in the garage:  Step two: Drain oil:  I really should wipe that catch pan down some day. None of that chunky stuff came from the BMW. I also decided to do the clutch delay valve delete, since everyone online talks about how easy it is. I posted a bit more about that in the Bimmer thread. Let's just say everyone online is full of poo poo. Two lessons I learned: Power bleeders are the poo poo. Get yourself one today. I just happened to get this one last week, so good timing there.  You don't need an offset box wrench until you do and in that case, literally nothing else will work: 
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Mar 22, 2021 13:38
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The 5-year-old battery in the STS finally generated its last volt, which only served to remind me how much side post designs suck.
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Mar 22, 2021 13:41
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90s Solo Cup posted:The 5-year-old battery in the STS finally generated its last volt, which only served to remind me how much side post designs suck. From a swapping out perspective, or from a longevity perspective? 5 years seems completely average from a longevity perspective. edit: I absolutely adore your ID and Avatar btw
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Mar 22, 2021 13:55
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nadmonk posted:Got the 2008 BMW 335i ready for driving. From having done this before: gently caress this job. Make triple sure your connector clips in all the way as well, FYI. Went to drive mine after doing the delete and my foot went to the floor when the connector just popped off. loving piece of poo poo.
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Mar 22, 2021 21:17
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Thanks for reminding me of the trauma my thumbs suffered when doing a clutch delete valve on an Alfa Romeo Guilietta (Dodge Dart). The two spring clip things that needed pressing over and over to bleed it... my thumbs were like fat sausages that couldn't bend. .... and the clutch still sucked rear end after doing it.
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Mar 22, 2021 22:18
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Goober Peas posted:From a swapping out perspective, or from a longevity perspective? 5 years seems completely average from a longevity perspective. Went by the date code on the battery. I always thought 3 to 5 years was typical lifespan for a car battery.
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Mar 23, 2021 08:25
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90s Solo Cup posted:Went by the date code on the battery. I always thought 3 to 5 years was typical lifespan for a car battery. I buy cheap flooded lead acid batteries, and they last me 10 years. The battery in my toyota is pushing 10 years old. When I bought the car, it had sat completely dead for 2 years. If you just go buy a cheap flooded battery with caps, you can pull the caps, add distilled water, give it a good hot equalize charge, and bring them back to life. If you buy a sealed piece of poo poo for too much money, once it fries out the electrolyte in 5 years, it's trash. Just buy cheap batteries, maintain them, and they last a LONG time.
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Mar 23, 2021 11:00
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Reassembled the HVAC controls in the Integra. The temp slider snapped the moment any torque was applied. I kinda expected that but that's still too much effort to end up right where you began. 
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Mar 24, 2021 17:45
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Back end of Brokeback seemed to get a bit louder (it's always been creaky, but started a metal on metal banging going over bumps - I guessed incorrectly that an exhaust mount broke and it was banging around). I never really take it above 40, so didn't notice anything weird with handing until yesterday when I went to the junkyard. Felt, uh, slightly squirrely on the highway.   Oh. Yeah, that'll do it. loving yikes.  Shockingly, the dealer had everything on hand. They did tell me 3 of the 4 parts showed 0 on hand, but he physically checked and found 1 of each on the shelf.  Not even pretending to line up the alignment marks (I might give a poo poo and turn the cam bolt a little later), it needs an alignment anyway. And I never noticed all the junkyard pen on the entire loving rear suspension.  Checked the other side, nut was a bit loose (and covered in CV grease despite the boot not being torn, ugh).90s Solo Cup posted:Went by the date code on the battery. I always thought 3 to 5 years was typical lifespan for a car battery. Depends on the climate. Where I'm at, 3-5 is typical, but I've had them last over 10 years. Matrix has only had the battery replaced once (about 7 years ago), but it's also an 05 with <100k on it. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 18:53 on Mar 24, 2021 |
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Mar 24, 2021 18:50
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Thankfully you didn't have to make an emergency lane change 
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Mar 24, 2021 19:11
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Eh, it's a multi link rear, the knuckle has a long piece that goes forwarded into the body, the lower front control arm holds the wheel straight ish, the rear lower that lost the bolt is to set the toe or camber, can't remember which, and in a pinch the strut kinda helps hold the back. Good thing to address but with the design of the rear it's unlikely to have had catastrophic consequences. Definitely would be more prone to spinning but it's not the wheel will want to just go it's own direction like if you lose a tie rod. E: there's also an upper control arm with the pad for the bump stop to smash into. There's a lot going on back there.
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Mar 24, 2021 19:41
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Yeah, that fancy pants suspension is why I didn't even notice the handling going to (more) poo poo until I took it on the highway for the first time in a couple of months yesterday, felt like the Titanic trying to capsize with every lane change. Just noticed loud banging every time I hit a bump until yesterday. It feels a shitload better now, I'd even argue it feels better than when I bought it. There's a whole lot less creaking/squeaking in the back vs the day I got it too; I found several loose bolts back there, and obvious signs of paint worn off of parts from poo poo moving around. There's enough junkyard marker back there that it's very obvious someone has replaced a lot of the rear suspension + subframe before, probably from when it got sideswiped before I got it. I knew the RF knee had been replaced, never looked at the rear suspension at all until today. It's surprisingly hard to break the rear loose on this except in snow and light rain, and even then it'll only happen when I really try (snow is HELLA FUN to spend 5+ minutes constantly sliding sideways in a parking lot, rain is just meh). But the tired engine + automatic aren't helping me smoke tires. Panty Saluter posted:Thankfully you didn't have to make an emergency lane change I... actually did. Someone merged onto the highway and dropped anchor where the lane ended on my way back from the junkyard. It was slam into a stopped car doing ~70 or whip into the next lane. Holy loving body roll. I think the nasty negative camber I have on the back (not by choice, that's how it came, though the RR looked a lot worse over the past week) is the only thing that kept me from losing it, it leaned over so hard. I took it down the road a little while ago after reattaching everything and it feels so, so much more planted and stable - much more than the day I bought it, and a lot less creaking in the back. Pretty sure poo poo's been loose back there with Dynamic Camber for a long while. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 19:53 on Mar 24, 2021 |
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Mar 24, 2021 19:44
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Imperador do Brasil posted:From having done this before: gently caress this job. I did both of my E90s just fine, but when we went to do my Dad's, we could not get it to bleed correctly. Worked great after overnighting that pressure bleeder. Pretty sure his E90 was when I got a face full of brake fluid. The motiv bleeders aren't too expensive and it made flushing the fluid on my F30 a really easy job.
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Mar 24, 2021 23:40
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So this is part of what spawned my trip to the junkyard the other day. Not only is that hilariously the wrong bolt, there was no nut on the back (the bracket isn't threaded).  Incorrect vs correct. God help you if you drop that stupid nut too, it buries itself between the intake runners (learned that one on my old roommate's WRX, thankfully he has really skinny fingers).  That's better. There's other poo poo I could be doing, but it backed out enough to drop the back of the alternator, causing it to throw the belt on my way home from work, so this needed to happen ASAP. It's little poo poo, but it's progress. Going to finally get off my rear end and repair the dash damage from when the car got broken into awhile back too, just need to find the pile of screws and the ashtray  I don't even know what that bolt that was standing in as the pivot bolt is for... but the end of it clearly snapped off, probably pretty recently. It's had that fucker in there for well over a year and a half and didn't back out until recently. e: and of course now the belt is squealing when tensioned to where I get roughly 1/4" of deflection on the long side. Took a look at it and it's glazed to poo poo. Guess I'm replacing the belt as soon as Advance Auto opens. AC belt looks good, but I may as well do that too. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 13:31 on Mar 26, 2021 |
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Mar 26, 2021 12:07
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STR posted:AC belt looks good, but I may as well do that too. Does brokeback have the goddamn stretch fit AC belt or do you actually have a tensioner? Suby accessories/bolting/tensioners are......interesting.
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Mar 26, 2021 14:10
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Brokeback will have the real tensioner. The stretch stuff was 08+ Funny enough the block still has the two threaded holes in it so you can retrofit the tensioner into the newer stretch fit setup.
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Mar 26, 2021 15:51
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Bajaha posted:Funny enough the block still has the two threaded holes in it so you can retrofit the tensioner into the newer stretch fit setup. Well that goes on my list for the next time I have to deal with accessories on my daughter's car.
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Mar 26, 2021 15:57
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The tensioners are stupid on those. Hey, let's use a bolt with two nuts locked against each other to run the tensioner out! It looks like someone hacked it together in their garage at 11pm on a Sunday because the oem one broke and they gotta get to work tomorrow. Let's thread-insert a plastic bit that moves the pulley! Because that will never seize up in the rustbelt and then split leaving the insert spinning until you die of old age Let's do it all with a long-rear end left-handed tap bolt just so that "tightening" the bolt tightens the belt! So if this loving mess fails on someone they can't get parts anywhere but a dealer! Unless they want dorman crap anyways It's assheaded bullshit right the way down.
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Mar 26, 2021 16:41
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Wait......as improbable as I would have thought it to be the stretch fit belt now sounds like an improvement.
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Mar 26, 2021 17:11
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Dorman does make a repair kit for it, for what it's worth... Part 917-124.
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Mar 26, 2021 17:12
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Got the new rear motor mount in from Rockauto so I decided start chipping away at that. You can swap it out with the intake manifold on the engine, but after examining the situation for a few minutes I decided that option was for chumps and got to work yanking the manifold. Probably needs a cleaning anyway, right? Oh my. Took me a couple hours to pull the manifold, mostly finding nuts and finding ways to get a socket on them. I could probably pull in an hour next time.  Gasket exploded when I got the manifold off. Not unexpected, 23 years in an engine bay would be hard on anyone.  Intake ports need love too. Guess I'll be buying some Seafoam. You can tell where the fuel hits though!   Absolutely filthy. Wondering what it would cost to bring it to a shop and get the guts media blasted. So naturally the project has expanded some. Gonna need new gaskets for the TB and manifold and a way to get the old material off. Putty knife I guess? Something non-marring for sure. I also need to hunt a fuel leak. The mileage has been utter poo poo for a long time. Never any puddles but I know at least one hard line is in pretty bad shape. Can AN flexible lines be safely run underneath the car?
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Mar 26, 2021 23:31
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Bajaha posted:Brokeback will have the real tensioner. The stretch stuff was 08+ Yup, regular tensioner. And it looks like a bit of a PITA, so that belt may just stay for now. Upside is if that belt breaks, it only runs the AC. If the other breaks, I lose the alternator and power steering. Next up will be the PS return lines (they're rock hard and leaking), probably the O-ring on the return, and the transmission mount. I'll probably put off the PS lines until I have to top it off regularly and/or the pump starts growling more often from that o-ring letting air in (right now it only complains on really cold days). Might proactively attack the fuel pump o-ring/housing issue that plagues these cars too (of course Dorman makes a kit for it), it's had some cold start issues where it seems like it's starving for fuel for about 10-15 seconds. https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-43973-902-438.aspx randomidiot fucked around with this message at 14:23 on Mar 27, 2021 |
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Mar 27, 2021 14:19
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Interior spring clean on the daily beater. Just turned 229k and cleans up nice Added some stickers since I'm a trash person with a trash car 
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Mar 27, 2021 23:34
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Got the rear engine mount changed out on the Integra today. What a miserable, miserable slog of a job. Never again. The manifold is out so that eased things considerably. I don't know how people do it with the manifold in. Getting the T bracket that holds the engine and gearbox to the frame loose was a trial. Most of the bolts were very compliant but not those two. They are the only instance of a 19mm bolt I have seen on this car. Took my 20" breaker and another foot of pipe with all my weight on it to break them loose. The rattlegun couldn't budge them.  The offenders given their due respect. The old mount was in shockingly good shape. I was sure it would be torn or dry rotted by now but it was still nice and rubbery. I guess that means it's just that soft, which is why I put poly inserts in all those years ago. I could live with them when I was tracking the car but now it's just an annoyance, so out they go. Next is cleaning the manifold innards before reinstalling....
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Mar 29, 2021 01:30
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Cross post from my thread:Darchangel posted:I buffed off some extraneous paint on the Outback, and finally removed what remained of the "protective" clear stickers that were apparently for a wind deflector that was installed on the car once upon a time.
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Mar 29, 2021 16:37
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Minor stuff, but my car got broken into a few months ago. Lost most of my tools, dash got smashed up from them trying to get the stereo out as well.  Looking a bit better today. Though I could have sworn I still had the ashtray. Guess not. I'll have to hit the junkyard for one (fuckers charged me for one when I only got the bracket  ). Bonus points for getting a working ashtray light again (used the bulb from the lighter socket on the old trim). Really need to clean out that storage tray under the ashtray, the car it came out of was very heavily smoked in - it's full of ashes. Mine had never been smoked in AFAIK (ashtray, lighter, and that tray looked mint) though I've smoked in it before  Panty Saluter posted:Got the rear engine mount changed out on the Integra today. What a miserable, miserable slog of a job. Never again. Oh you poor bastard. The rear mount on any FWD car is a pain, but it's a particularly miserable job on the Integras. DA or DC?
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Mar 30, 2021 07:41
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STR posted:
DC. Just a plain 98 RS. Looking forward to not having those drat poly inserts rattling my fillings out anymore for sure. Got my Skunk2 thermal gasket ordered up today. I would have bought the Hondata but they wanted 30 bux minimum to ship and lol no. Gonna do the TB bypass too since we're in hotass Texas E: I was intensely glad that I waited to do this job until I had my own driveway and another vehicle so there was no rush to complete anything Panty Saluter fucked around with this message at 19:13 on Mar 30, 2021 |
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Mar 30, 2021 18:55
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TBH I would love a DC hatch. RS, LS, GS, etc. Or a GS-R that's been debadged and has LS wheels (or better yet, RS steelies + hubcaps) on it. Fuckers are too easy to steal, but not many people want a B18B, even though it can put down decent power for what it is. Too bad insurance is so high on them here. I had a 91 LS hatch, and loved it, but it was a loving basketcase. The DC is nicer car overall, particularly the mid-cycle refresh (though I prefer the JDM front clip.. or a DA with the JDM headlights, so long as you can stockpile H4H bulbs).
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Mar 31, 2021 09:01
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Yeah, mine has never been stolen or hosed with in the 20 years I've had it, including many years in apartment complexes. Now that it's no longer the primary vahicle I'm tempted to start messing around with hotter cams and whatnot but a front end rebuild is probably up first. The axles are clattering in both directions (still OE!) and the steering end link are pretty dang expired too. It was a New England car for the first nine years of its life so I think replacing the whole assembly will be far easier than trying to separate hubs and knuckles at this point...
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Mar 31, 2021 13:54
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Only took 2 loving months (no excuses, I've had a pair of new door handles for almost as long)... This (which eventually got to where I had to open the other door, then reach across to open the driver's door, once the handle broke completely off):  To this:  It would have been a <30 minute job if the loving thing didn't have manual windows, I had a bitch of a time getting that D clip out of the handle. Probably even faster if I still had actual Torx sockets, but they got stolen with most of my other tools... so I have a folding Torx multitool thing from HF. Barely fit inside the door to loosen the handle. At least Toyota finally knew their door handles sucked by the time this was made, super straightforward to do. Same p/n as a Prius, FWIW.... and this being a base model, they're unpainted anyway, so the replacement will just stand out for a bit for being shiny instead of faded. Matching front set is <$15 on Amazon for knockoffs, or only a little less for one. I figure for how easy they are to replace (aside from that loving clip, though after seeing everything apart, I know how to get it the clip out a lot easier next time), I'll take my chances on the knockoffs. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:07 on Apr 1, 2021 |
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Apr 1, 2021 06:50
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Mistakes were made. I ordered a Nitrous Outlet kit with 15 pound bottle, a NOS mini dual channel progressive controller, and a Ligenfelter timing/2-stage box. Should be here by the start of next week. I guess I need to start looking for a drag pack.
EvilBeard fucked around with this message at 15:58 on Apr 4, 2021 |
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Apr 1, 2021 17:14
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Got rid of the snow shoes and put on the sandals. Also made an appointment for semi annual alignment. 
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Apr 3, 2021 21:42
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