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Gen 2 Optane review up https://www.storagereview.com/review/intel-optane-ssd-p5800x-review plz buy optane you know you need 100 DWPD WhyteRyce fucked around with this message at 19:50 on Apr 6, 2021 |
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Apr 6, 2021 19:41
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WhyteRyce posted:Gen 2 Optane review up Wonder if the Chia miners will be all over this...
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Apr 6, 2021 22:01
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movax posted:Wonder if the Chia miners will be all over this... I stopped paying attention to the  cryptocurrency thread awhile ago but I'm assuming you are talking about the alternative currencies that attempt to "fix" the bitcoin mining problem by making their mining algorithms huge memory hogs?It would be fantastic to see the cost of this crammed into as many PCIe slots as possible on a board https://www.shopblt.com/item/intel-optane-enterprise-1pk-ssd-dc/y543_ssdpf21q016tb01.html
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Apr 6, 2021 22:07
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Does optane require write conditioning to reach steady state like nand? I seem to recall it does.
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Apr 7, 2021 02:20
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There is wear leveling stuff but the threshold and performance drop offs are no where near the same based off the extended workload benchmarks people have done
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Apr 7, 2021 04:40
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I was thinking about it more, Optane still uses DRAM right? I'm interested in drives for PCIe benchmarking but most NVMe SSDs are a pain because you have to precondition them before you can run write benchmarks. And then the performance drop off due to wear levelling after a lot of that, which Optane will mitigate. But the preconditioning, blargh. Currently use NVRAM devices because capacity doesn't matter just want raw speed! Only available in Gen3 though. Another good option is GPUs using the ROCm/CUDA stuff but it's nice to have a variety of choices.
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Apr 7, 2021 05:45
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I know Intel showed some cherry-picked benchmarks of Optane vs. NAND in sustained heavy workloads because it was one of the areas Optane clobbers NAND, but I don't recall where they are. Someone did put together a white paper on it's observed characteristics and had the following which should interest you https://www.usenix.org/system/files/hotstorage19-paper-wu-kan.pdf quote:We now study the long-term performance of Optane SSD. quote:Optane SSD behaves quite differently; no
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Apr 7, 2021 06:05
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Oh that's cool, thanks! I need to order us a couple now that it is now in the Q2 budget period. It's ridiculous how much stuff we take for granted, I found someone was using an 11TB micron drive to tilt a lab monitor up 
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Apr 7, 2021 06:10
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priznat posted:I was thinking about it more, Optane still uses DRAM right? I'm interested in drives for PCIe benchmarking but most NVMe SSDs are a pain because you have to precondition them before you can run write benchmarks. And then the performance drop off due to wear levelling after a lot of that, which Optane will mitigate. But the preconditioning, blargh. Currently use NVRAM devices because capacity doesn't matter just want raw speed! Only available in Gen3 though. The reason NAND SSDs need preconditioning is that (especially) during random write workloads the data inside the drive will be increasingly defragmented (valid/invalid blocks) and it will need to relocate some of it in order to erase/program the next user input. This a) takes up bandwidth available to the user b) until the distribution of valid/invalid blocks is uniform across NAND dies, the performance will be unstable. Both NAND and Optane still will do relocations due to wear leveling, but it's not anywhere near as significant as garbage collecting. I don't believe Optane (SSDs) has the same magnitude of DRAM inside the drive as NAND (assuming this is what you mean), but don't quote me on that. The PM modules have DRAM for sure, but I don't recall any ratios there.
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Apr 7, 2021 07:44
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priznat posted:Oh that's cool, thanks! I need to order us a couple now that it is now in the Q2 budget period. Ooff I try to quietly correct stuff like that, maybe throw in a "don't use this item like that again, please" because there are guys in my department who would absolutely respond with "that is worth about £6000 and I'm going to get you sacked for negligence".
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Apr 11, 2021 15:27
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WonkyBob posted:Ooff I try to quietly correct stuff like that, maybe throw in a "don't use this item like that again, please" because there are guys in my department who would absolutely respond with "that is worth about £6000 and I'm going to get you sacked for negligence". I’m just happy when the jr engineers don’t carry the 300k analyzers around by their cables. It’s really shocking the disregard people often have towards expensive equipment!
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Apr 11, 2021 16:29
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priznat posted:I’m just happy when the jr engineers don’t carry the 300k analyzers around by their cables. It’s really shocking the disregard people often have towards expensive equipment! Always seems like it's due to the "I didn't pay for it so why should I care" mentality. I've seen people slamming work provided ipads on desks but treat THEIR device as though it was a newborn...
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Apr 12, 2021 20:52
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I know yall don't need to see any more benchmarks to know that PCIe 4 drives can throw big numbers... but here have some anyway! I picked up a 1tb WD SN850 after reading some reviews, to replace a 970 Evo that is going in a new build for my brother. The Evo was cloned in situ, and is a full realworld situation. And yeah, the Evo was mostly full but again, real world install and should have its full cache available with the space left. Here is the 970 Evo on an i7 8700K/Z370:  And the SN850 on the same platform (so limited to PCIe 3).  Still a small improvement, but nothing impressive. Now lets move that same drive/install over to a 5950X build:  Niiiiiice.
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Apr 13, 2021 21:27
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Cygni posted:
Well into DDR2 speeds on the sequentials!
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Apr 14, 2021 12:46
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If you need a SSD.. the time to buy might be now: "With the emergence of the Chia cryptocurrency, miners in China are frantically snatching up every piece of hard drive and SSD. Unlike other cryptocurrencies, you don't mine Chia with a processor, graphics card or ASIC miner. Instead, you farm Chia with storage space, which is where hard drives or SSDs come in. Unlike Bitcoin, which is based on proof of work, Chia utilizes a proof of space and time model." Edit: my PM983's price is up 100€ already. Bought one 3 months ago. Ihmemies fucked around with this message at 12:28 on Apr 17, 2021 |
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Apr 17, 2021 12:22
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Oh for gently caress's sake
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Apr 17, 2021 12:38
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Ihmemies posted:If you need a SSD.. the time to buy might be now: so I can monetise that SAS shelf of 6TB drives I found in e-waste?
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Apr 17, 2021 14:19
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Kind of funny, nerds now get rich but cant spend their buttcoins on the thing they love.. computers.
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Apr 17, 2021 18:09
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Are you loving making GBS threads me? I at least just put another SSD in last week but this is stupid.
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Apr 17, 2021 18:27
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Can't it die already?
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Apr 17, 2021 23:52
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I think SSDs are probably safe for the time being. The process of creating a mining 'plot' generates a massive amount of writes so they recommend using old enterprise drives.
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Apr 18, 2021 03:19
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Going to lol if crypto becomes the killer app for Optane ssd adoption
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Apr 18, 2021 03:21
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WhyteRyce posted:Going to lol if crypto becomes the killer app for Optane ssd adoption Glad I panic bought that extra M.2 slot 905P when Intel announced the discontinuation!!!!
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Apr 18, 2021 04:34
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So earlier today, the HDD I use for storage was making some weird noises, so I tried shutting down the computer to get it to stop. It didn't seem like the Windows shut down was working (was taking too long), so I rebooted/restarted from the button on the front of the computer, and then held down the power button on the front to force it shut it down when it seemed like it was also taking too long. After starting the computer back up, I looked at the files on the HDD, one directory couldn't be open, citing it was unreadable/corrupted (WizTree gave me Error Code 1392 when I tried to scan the directory). I tried using Recuva to see if I could recover the files, but a deep scan was taking too long, so I aborted it. I did a search, and found the solution of going into the command prompt, and running the disk check (chkdsk). By runnning e: chkdsk /r, I was able to access the directory again, so I think the files were successfully recovered.  What I'd like to know is if I should defragment the drive now that I've run the chkdsk. From a quick search, I read that if you're going to defragment a drive, you should do the chkdsk first, so I don't have to worry about that. Analyzing the drive in Defraggler, though, there's only about 2% fragmentation (22 fragmented files (8.5 GB), 62 total fragments). Additionally, I also analyzed the C: drive (the SSD where Windows is installed) and I found that there was a lot more fragmentation (14% fragmentation, with 9,273 fragmented files (59.8 GB), and 41,721 total fragments). Now, I know from asking in the past that you're not supposed to defragment a SSD, because it puts unneeded wear on the drive. However, Defraggler has an option to 'Optimize' the drive. I know defragmentation on an SSD isn't as big of a deal, but I read that it does still affect performance, and I was wondering if Defraggler's SSD Optimize function would help with that. Some snapshots of Defraggler. The HDD I ran Chkdsk /r on:  The main SSD. Note that 'Defrag' changed to 'Optimize':  The second SSD I use to install Steam games to. Not as fragmented, but I thought I'd include it: 
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Apr 18, 2021 05:52
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Max Wilco posted:So earlier today, the HDD I use for storage was making some weird noises, so I tried shutting down the computer to get it to stop. It didn't seem like the Windows shut down was working (was taking too long), so I rebooted/restarted from the button on the front of the computer, and then held down the power button on the front to force it shut it down when it seemed like it was also taking too long. After starting the computer back up, I looked at the files on the HDD, one directory couldn't be open, citing it was unreadable/corrupted (WizTree gave me Error Code 1392 when I tried to scan the directory). Oh my god, if you think your hard disk could be dying do not do anything that's going to stress it or move data around on it until you're sure that it's not or you're trying to get everything off it as a last ditch effort expecting to never use it again. Also, don't defrag anything manually anymore, modern filesystems handle that fine. Anyway, while your screenshot says disk health good, you should grab https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskinfo/ in whichever version you want (normal or anime) and run that and take a look at the smart data on the hard disk to see if there's reallocated sectors, bad sectors, etc. It could be fine but a hard disk making weird noises usually means some kind of hard failure is imminent. The main noise you might hear that's unusual is a clicking which is usually the heads failing to initialize and/or smacking into the disk platters and ruining them.
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Apr 18, 2021 13:43
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Max Wilco posted:So earlier today, the HDD I use for storage was making some weird noises... Defragmenting is the LAST thing you should be considering. Your drive is very likely dying. Your first priority should be to copy any important data elsewhere and prepare for that drive to die. Maybe it won't die today, maybe not tomorrow, but throwing hardware errors like that is a very good sign it is not long for this world. To figure out if it's really your drive, download some software that lets you see the SMART attributes for your drive and post the results here. As for the SSD: defragmenting them isn't a "thing" and any software trying to tell you it is is just attempting to sell you snake oil. SSDs internally fragment the gently caress out of your data deliberately as part of their internal performance and wear-leveling systems. Not only is it highly recommend to just let a SSD manage its poo poo on its own, I have suspicions that something like Defraggler wouldn't even be able to actually do anything useful in terms of spreading used blocks around since I doubt it has access to that low level drive workings in the first place. Tl;dr forget about defragmenting anything, life-raft your data off that HDD ASAP.
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Apr 18, 2021 14:47
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The second I start hearing a mechanical drive I move anything important to a fresh drive and write it off as dead, its days are numbered at that point and you never know what’ll kill it.
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Apr 18, 2021 14:49
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Rexxed posted:Oh my god, if you think your hard disk could be dying do not do anything that's going to stress it or move data around on it until you're sure that it's not or you're trying to get everything off it as a last ditch effort expecting to never use it again. Also, don't defrag anything manually anymore, modern filesystems handle that fine. I downloaded this, and yeah, it's giving up a 'Caution' warning.  EDIT: Hovering over the 'Caution' warning tells me: "[C5] Current Pending Sector Count: 17" "[C6] Uncorrectable Sector Count:1" I'm currently copying everything over to the alternate SSD. Is there something I should seek out as a replacement? The drive is WD Black 2TB, which i bought back in 2015. Would I be best off getting that one (or a larger one) again, or some other brand. Additionally, if I want to buy a portable hard drive for storage, what kind should I get? I ask because whenever I browse on Amazon, most of the reviews for drives cite problems with failures. Is there also anything I can do to prevent this from happening in the future, or at least help extend the life of the drive? Max Wilco fucked around with this message at 18:00 on Apr 18, 2021 |
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Apr 18, 2021 17:42
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Max Wilco posted:Is there also anything I can do to prevent this from happening in the future, or at least help extend the life of the drive? Nope. All hard drives will die eventually, >5 years isn't a bad run, even if some happen to last much longer. Always have your data backed up.
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Apr 18, 2021 18:00
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Max Wilco posted:Is there something I should seek out as a replacement? The drive is WD Black 2TB, which i bought back in 2015. Would I be best off getting that one (or a larger one) again, or some other brand. Aside from that, there's really no reliability difference between the 3 common brands of HDs (WD, Seagate, Toshiba). The big thing is that every so often one of them fucks up a design and you have a model with huge failure rates. Seagate had the most recent one of those, so some people are all like "seagate sucks!!", but they've all had it happen at one point. And I don't think past performance is any predictor of which one will have a bum model next. So brand doesn't matter. Another thing that doesn't matter: drives labeled as "NAS". As a single basic drive in a normal PC, NAS-branded drives aren't any better than a regular drive. They have firmware differences that make them better for a NAS or RAID use, but the hardware isn't better in any way that leads to longer lifespan. quote:Additionally, if I want to buy a portable hard drive for storage, what kind should I get? I ask because whenever I browse on Amazon, most of the reviews for drives cite problems with failures. The drives in external boxes by WD and Seagate are (almost) identical to the normal internal drives. If you get one of the large-size ones (which contain a desktop 3.5" drive), don't move it around while it's turned on. The smaller ones that have 2.5" laptop drives are more tolerant of bumps. quote:Is there also anything I can do to prevent this from happening in the future, or at least help extend the life of the drive? Not really. HDDs are mechanical things with moving parts, they fail. If you've changed windows power settings to never sleep your drives, reset that to normal and let them power save.
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Apr 18, 2021 18:08
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Klyith posted:Since you have 1.5 TB of SSD space for games and other stuff that wants fast storage, I would in your shoes buy a 5400 RPM drive. A they're cheaper, B they're a bit quieter / have less case resonance, C the slower speed means they're theoretically a bit longer-lived. Well, there's the Seagate Barracuda 4TB on Amazon, which is 5400RPM, for $85. It seems to be pretty popular, but I don't know if it's the one that suffered design issues like mentioned. It also apparently needs software from Seagate to activate. NAS and RAID is something I've read and thought about, but it sounds sort of complicated when it comes to setup. I am considering it in the future. I ask about external drives because I have a Toshiba 1TB external, but I want to get another one with more space. EDIT: I should maybe clarify that when I say that I used the drive for storage, it was in regards to storing music, images, documents, video, etc. I didn't have it connected to the main folders for all those categories that Windows set, meaning that I think that the drive only was active/spinning when I specifically wanted to pull up something on it. I have 7zip archives saved on them that I would extract on the drive, and I thought that maybe doing that semi-frequently that was why the drive failed, but then I wouldn't think that would be out of the ordinary. Max Wilco fucked around with this message at 18:43 on Apr 18, 2021 |
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Apr 18, 2021 18:26
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Max Wilco posted:but I don't know if it's the one that suffered design issues like mentioned. Nah that was like 4-5 years ago, those drives are long off the store shelves. And afaik most of the models being sold right now haven't been changed within the last year and don't have widespread early failures, so I'd count most anything you can buy right now as pretty safe. Max Wilco posted:NAS and RAID is something I've read and thought about, but it sounds sort of complicated when it comes to setup. I am considering it in the future. RAID has become moderately pointless for drives in your personal desktop IMO. The speed improvements aren't a big deal anymore (SSDs are fast enough without it), and the reliability of mirroring doesn't mean you don't need to make backups (raid doesn't help vs ransomware that encrypts all your poo poo). quote:I ask about external drives because I have a Toshiba 1TB external, but I want to get another one with more space. Yeah toshiba is fine too. They pretty much only make the smaller 2.5" size externals. Basically if you want an external, just get whatever is cheapest for the physical size and TB storage you want, because there aren't many differences if you just want plug-in storage. Like, seagate has a cheap and an expensive model. The difference is the expensive one has an aluminum case instead of plastic, and a button which, if you've installed their software, does a backup. Same drive inside.
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Apr 18, 2021 18:53
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Klyith posted:Nah that was like 4-5 years ago, those drives are long off the store shelves. And afaik most of the models being sold right now haven't been changed within the last year and don't have widespread early failures, so I'd count most anything you can buy right now as pretty safe. I guess I'll go ahead and order that Seagate Barracuda 4TB drive, then. Hopefully, it should be easy to swap out. Klyith posted:A commercial NAS box like a Synology makes it pretty easy. For someone that isn't a massive data packrat, a basic 2-disk box + two 4 or 6 TB HDDs is a pretty good setup for about $350. Good enough to store stuff and do backups over the network. $350 is kind of pricey (at least by my standards), but I like having a surplus of storage (and 8,000-12,000GB between two 4/6TB drives sounds pretty nice). My initial idea was backing up my GOG library, but with things like the PS3 online store shutting down, I'm also obsessed with trying to rescue stuff or having an alternative storage to archive things. Apart from storing stuff, I know you can use an external HDD for installing console games as well. Max Wilco fucked around with this message at 19:20 on Apr 18, 2021 |
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Apr 18, 2021 19:17
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I remember reading some models didn’t like being powered down/put to sleep because parking the head ended up damaging it
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Apr 18, 2021 22:12
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Max Wilco posted:It also apparently needs software from Seagate to activate. E: oh it comes with dumb snakeoil poo poo that just initalizes the GPT instead of you going to disk manager. Trying to decide if I want a third NVMe to dedicate to windows (threadripper, so it'd still be on CPU lanes) or just get a big SATA. What's the current good 2TB NVMe with TLC & DRAM? I've only got PCIe 3.0 so I don't need one of the newer 4.0 ones. I was looking at another silicon power but apparently they're all QLC now? I've got the older (blue sticker) TLC 1TB. E2: There is a TLC 2TB SP. Harik fucked around with this message at 01:15 on Apr 19, 2021 |
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Apr 18, 2021 23:29
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Harik posted:it needs what now? From one of the Amazon reviews: quote:I returned the 1st one because it wouldn't detect. I had the same problem with the replacement one. I had to go seagate's sight and download their disc wizard. After that it worked. There are NO instructions that come with it just a warranty paper, so you just have to know enough figure that out on your own. No other hd of mine has needed this. The review made it sound like the disk manager wouldn't recognize it without the software.
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Apr 19, 2021 02:08
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Max Wilco posted:From one of the Amazon reviews: That's on a review of an internal drive. They come unformatted and uninitialized, but in no circumstance need special software to "activate". Either the guy didn't know how to use disk manager to initialize a drive, or he didn't know how to physically install and connect it. And 837 other people also don't know how drives work. Amazon reviews are often trash and you need to look at them (both positive and negative) with a skeptical eye.
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Apr 19, 2021 02:19
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Always read three star reviews exclusively. They're usually the most honest.
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Apr 19, 2021 02:55
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Klyith posted:Amazon reviews are often trash and you need to look at them (both positive and negative) with a skeptical eye. Cheap mobos are especially prone to trashy reviews, since they are also the most likely ones to be paired with crappy PSUs and cooling. Palladium fucked around with this message at 05:17 on Apr 19, 2021 |
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Apr 19, 2021 05:14
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Palladium posted:Cheap mobos are especially prone to trashy reviews, since they are also the most likely ones to be paired with crappy PSUs and cooling. There's that, but these days you kinda have to look hard to find PSUs that are actively hateful. And cooling is almost always gonna be adequate on day 1. I believe that there's a way bigger factor in play that's 100% psychological. Say someone gets the fancy $300 racing stripes mobo that every website says "amazing, Gold Star award" and the only thing in the cons list is "expensive!", and they bungle the build. In that case they are probably predisposed to take a 2nd and 3rd look at things. They know they've got the best stuff, the starting assumption is that it should work great, so there's an easier path to blaming themselves. On the other had you have someone who buys the cheap mobo because it's what they can afford, and they know it's not the best, and they bungle it. For that person the bias is very different, maybe the mobo is just crap. How thoroughly they review their own work & make efforts to troubleshoot problems is gonna be influenced by that. There are a lotta people in this world for whom "maybe I hosed up" is not a natural thought.
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Apr 19, 2021 16:09
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