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Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Speaking of rad floors, we recently got our braava mopping robot going again and hooolllly poo poo I was on a video call with my mom and even she noticed what a difference running the braava three times made

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Beef Of Ages
Jan 11, 2003

Your dumb is leaking.
That green is poo poo hot.

On the local front, I've got all the locks and door knobs changed out (including some jankyass stuff done by the previous owner. Waiting on the quote to build a garage and several other misceallous internal items like putting a dual vanity in the upstairs bathroom as I remain convinced that dual vanities is a cornerstone of marital harmony, replacing toilets, and whatnot. Next up is spackling walls in advance of a painter's quote (outside is a must, inside needs to be done but I may be willing to undertake the effort myself if the price is stupid high) and starting to replace the ceiling fans which have the most obtuse and nearly useless light fixtures, plus a pointless remote control.

I won't be bored for a while.

surf rock
Aug 12, 2007

We need more women in STEM, and by that, I mean skateboarding, television, esports, and magic.
I've noticed my lights flicker off in the bathroom three times in the last month. It's multiple bulbs and fixtures, but it seems localized to part of the house (clocks weren't reset elsewhere; the internet connection didn't drop, etc). I've actually never had an electrical issue before; any ideas on what this could be? Thanks!

KidDynamite
Feb 11, 2005

Is $7800 a good quote for painting the interior in a 2 family home that’s about 2000sq ft. 6beds and 4 baths total? This includes the materials. I honestly have no idea what this should run because I got a labor only quote from the gc doing some other work at the house for $2800 + materials cost.

Edit: material will be Benjamin Moore paint if that matters.

KidDynamite fucked around with this message at 04:00 on Apr 5, 2021

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Well what kind of paint are you using? Home depot sells the worlds worst flat white paint for $10 for 5 gallons, and I've paid $65/gallon for behr custom mixed paint, and that's not even the high end. I think we averaged about 1.75 gallons per bedroom

Edit: yes the price of the paint matters tremendously

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I paid 3200 for ceilings / doors / baseboards / walls in three small rooms only in ~1900sf because we were loving wiped after doing all the other walls.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

KidDynamite posted:

Is $7800 a good quote for painting the interior in a 2 family home that’s about 2000sq ft. 6beds and 4 baths total? This includes the materials. I honestly have no idea what this should run because I got a labor only quote from the gc doing some other work at the house for $2800 + materials cost.

Edit: material will be Benjamin Moore paint if that matters.

Way too many variables to tell you. How much wall square footage, where you live, how many colors, what's the state of the house (empty, occupied), moving furniture, ceilings, trim, doors...

That's a fortune if the house is empty and they'll spray it out in one color. It's cheap if it's quality paint for walls trim and accent walls in each room of am occupied house.

I like to paint, but I only do a room at a time because it's a lot of work or can be. It's an easy enough job to do yourself, and a helper makes a big difference. I think paint skews higher toward labor cost than materials overall.

Dik Hz
Feb 22, 2004

Fun with Science

KidDynamite posted:

Is $7800 a good quote for painting the interior in a 2 family home that’s about 2000sq ft. 6beds and 4 baths total? This includes the materials. I honestly have no idea what this should run because I got a labor only quote from the gc doing some other work at the house for $2800 + materials cost.

Edit: material will be Benjamin Moore paint if that matters.
Get Moore quotes.

Democratic Pirate
Feb 17, 2010

StormDrain posted:

Way too many variables to tell you. How much wall square footage, where you live, how many colors, what's the state of the house (empty, occupied), moving furniture, ceilings, trim, doors...

That's a fortune if the house is empty and they'll spray it out in one color. It's cheap if it's quality paint for walls trim and accent walls in each room of am occupied house.

I like to paint, but I only do a room at a time because it's a lot of work or can be. It's an easy enough job to do yourself, and a helper makes a big difference. I think paint skews higher toward labor cost than materials overall.

Even in an unoccupied house I think I would pay for someone else to do doors/ceiling/trim/prep work, but at that point it’s probably better to just pay for everything. Having a helper to do all the prep work is definitely key for DIY painting.

Residency Evil
Jul 28, 2003

4/5 godo... Schumi

KidDynamite posted:

Is $7800 a good quote for painting the interior in a 2 family home that’s about 2000sq ft. 6beds and 4 baths total? This includes the materials. I honestly have no idea what this should run because I got a labor only quote from the gc doing some other work at the house for $2800 + materials cost.

Edit: material will be Benjamin Moore paint if that matters.

I just paid $2400 for 1 bedroom, two hallways, a bathroom, and a few living/dining room ceiling/wall repairs, with benny moore paint. $7800 seems reasonable, but yeah, always get more than 1 quote.

MrLogan
Feb 4, 2004

Ask me about Derek Carr's stolen MVP awards, those dastardly refs, and, oh yeah, having the absolute worst fucking gimmick in The Football Funhouse.

KidDynamite posted:

Is $7800 a good quote for painting the interior in a 2 family home that’s about 2000sq ft. 6beds and 4 baths total? This includes the materials. I honestly have no idea what this should run because I got a labor only quote from the gc doing some other work at the house for $2800 + materials cost.

Edit: material will be Benjamin Moore paint if that matters.

We paid ~$8k not including the paint to have 3.7k sq ft painted last summer. Hooray for the wife wanting to do housing stuff during a pandemic, just like everyone else.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Democratic Pirate posted:

Even in an unoccupied house I think I would pay for someone else to do doors/ceiling/trim/prep work, but at that point it’s probably better to just pay for everything. Having a helper to do all the prep work is definitely key for DIY painting.

My favorite thing about painting is just zoning into it fully. It may help that I was trained and did it for a summer, which doesn't make me an expert, I do have enough experience to make life easier. Wipe everything, tape the base, masking paper on that tape, drop cloth, cut in, roll out.

Then the pure satisfaction of pulling tape off and seeing the result. I love it actually. I have a bedroom and a hallway left to paint and I kinda want to start now.

Edit: my wife last week told me I'm the most cut out to be a homeowner out of anyone she knows. I have a sick obsession with minor upgrades and spending me free time on it.

KidDynamite
Feb 11, 2005

The quote did include ceilings, and was a single color for the first floor and 4 colors for the second floor, empty house. I have another guy coming out tomorrow. But it's good to know this wasn't like insanely astronomical.

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


Painting isn't bad. But 'painting' is like 95% prep work and depending on the condition of your walls, this can be a anything from an annoying to miserably tedious process.

That being said, $8k to paint a 2000sqft house seems crazy to me. Looks like you should probably just convince StormDrain to come over in exchange for some pizza and beer. :D

Beef Of Ages
Jan 11, 2003

Your dumb is leaking.
Yeah, that $8K quote is giving me the heaves as I start solicting quotes to do the full outside (brick + trim) of our new house and most of the walls of the inside but probably without ceilings which are in reasonable shape or something I can take care of myself. I got them to agree to give me a line item breakdown between inside and outside so I can pick based on cost but oh god I was hoping to do the whole thing for that much. :ohdear:

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Sirotan posted:

Painting isn't bad. But 'painting' is like 95% prep work and depending on the condition of your walls, this can be a anything from an annoying to miserably tedious process.

That being said, $8k to paint a 2000sqft house seems crazy to me. Looks like you should probably just convince StormDrain to come over in exchange for some pizza and beer. :D

Full disclosure, I am colorblind, in the red and green variant. I don't do color matching, I just take the paint from the can and put it on the wall.

And yes on the tedious prep. I usually go over the walls patching holes and knocking off bad texture, tighten up outlet cutouts, somehow this house has a lot of drips and bad patches to sand off too.

I think I skimmed parts of my bedroom ceiling 5 times after it should have been complete. I figured if I'm laying up looking at it I need the top quality I can do. I had to eventually let some errors go. And I rolled a few lines into it anyway.

On the other hand when you've got the walls and just have to tape and paint it goes quick. I painted my bathroom I think three times in three years as I just couldn't get the right color. White was blah but better than tan, then the grey was too cool, and finally we went with piss yellow and I hated it, but it kinda worked.

unknown
Nov 16, 2002
Ain't got no stinking title yet!


gently caress those bathtub single faucets (I'm looking at you Moen Positemp). Oh they're nice when they work, but gently caress replacing a cartridge after a few years of use that developed a slow leak. Calcium deposits and broken rubber seals make them nearly impossible to remove easily (yes, even using a proper cartridge puller).

Just gently caress them.

But that being said, very nice once working like they should.

Residency Evil
Jul 28, 2003

4/5 godo... Schumi
I’ve been up since 3am because our sump pump check valve decided to die and shake the house in the middle of the night.

Residency Evil
Jul 28, 2003

4/5 godo... Schumi


My god the satisfaction. The previous owners and now us have been dealing this for years. I finally said gently caress it and bought the $30 valves instead of the ones the plumbers keep using. So far no leaking and they don’t make the house shake when the pump goes off. Amazing.

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



Residency Evil posted:



My god the satisfaction. The previous owners and now us have been dealing this for years. I finally said gently caress it and bought the $30 valves instead of the ones the plumbers keep using. So far no leaking and they don’t make the house shake when the pump goes off. Amazing.

Did you install the valve yourself? Nicely done.

Residency Evil
Jul 28, 2003

4/5 godo... Schumi

Inner Light posted:

Did you install the valve yourself? Nicely done.

I did. Had a late start at work today so I got the valves (for the main/backup) from Lowes at 7am so that I could put them in. Lost some skin to the old screws, but everything is working 100x better than before. Should have done this years ago.

Residency Evil fucked around with this message at 15:07 on Apr 6, 2021

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


just an ode to PO.

PO I've enjoyed removing the deck portion you built with 25% of stringers rotted because of ground contact.
I've enjoyed pulling the posts out by hand except for that one, you know which one. The one that you decided to concrete in while the rest were just in dirt.. I'm surprised theyr'e 1/2 way level. they also have a random 1.5" deep 4x4" notch in them somehow maybe they were used for something else first I dunno it's interesting

Next step is removing the staples from the board that contains wire that's run to the lightpost so I can remove the rest of the deck.

Beef Of Ages
Jan 11, 2003

Your dumb is leaking.
I have three basement window wells that are encased in concrete that need covers. Most stock window well covers at the Home Despot or other stores of that nature either don't fit the dimensions I need or are made for circular window wells that are made of plastic so you can clip the cover on it which is not the case for me. The only real options I'm seeing are to try to get one that is too large and cut it to size (at around $100 a pop) or get them custom made which is north of $250 per window. All of this seems horrifically stupid for something that isn't going to be seen (our house is in an urban environment and there isn't going to be some giant lawn, garden, or miscellaneous shrubberies to make this stuff match with).

The ultimate goal here is to keep trash/debris and most of the rain water out of the window wells. To that end, can anyone identify a significant problem with taking a sheet of polycarbonate acrylic, cutting it to size, attaching it to an an angle bracket which in turn attaches to the house, and some outdoor caulk to seal the joints? It's a $20 per window solution that seems to accomplish the same goal as the $250 model; even if I need to replace it after a year or two, I'm still well ahead of the game. :shrug:

Zarin
Nov 11, 2008

I SEE YOU

Mackieman posted:

I have three basement window wells that are encased in concrete that need covers. Most stock window well covers at the Home Despot or other stores of that nature either don't fit the dimensions I need or are made for circular window wells that are made of plastic so you can clip the cover on it which is not the case for me. The only real options I'm seeing are to try to get one that is too large and cut it to size (at around $100 a pop) or get them custom made which is north of $250 per window. All of this seems horrifically stupid for something that isn't going to be seen (our house is in an urban environment and there isn't going to be some giant lawn, garden, or miscellaneous shrubberies to make this stuff match with).

The ultimate goal here is to keep trash/debris and most of the rain water out of the window wells. To that end, can anyone identify a significant problem with taking a sheet of polycarbonate acrylic, cutting it to size, attaching it to an an angle bracket which in turn attaches to the house, and some outdoor caulk to seal the joints? It's a $20 per window solution that seems to accomplish the same goal as the $250 model; even if I need to replace it after a year or two, I'm still well ahead of the game. :shrug:

Heh, I read the first half of the post and was going to suggest "Hell, why not get a 4x8 sheet of plexi or other plastic at Menard's and just cut to fit?" So I think you're on the right track there :v:

Thoughts on that approach:
1). Is the angle bracket for a hinge? Or is this going to sit loose?
2). You may want to consider a bend or form in it so that over time, it doesn't develop a dip in the middle where water will collect
3). Probably worth the time/effort to put a layer or two of paint or something on it to protect it from UV

If you can keep it from collecting water and protect it from UV damage, I don't see why a piece of plastic/composite like that can't last for several decades.

Edit: now that I think about it for 10 seconds, instead of a bend or dip, probably easier to just set it up so it slopes away from the house

Edit edit: Are those intended to be egress windows for rooms on the lower level? Or are they just small windows for light?

Zarin fucked around with this message at 14:54 on Apr 7, 2021

Beef Of Ages
Jan 11, 2003

Your dumb is leaking.

Zarin posted:

Heh, I read the first half of the post and was going to suggest "Hell, why not get a 4x8 sheet of plexi or other plastic at Menard's and just cut to fit?" So I think you're on the right track there :v:

Thoughts on that approach:
1). Is the angle bracket for a hinge? Or is this going to sit loose?
2). You may want to consider a bend or form in it so that over time, it doesn't develop a dip in the middle where water will collect
3). Probably worth the time/effort to put a layer or two of paint or something on it to protect it from UV

If you can keep it from collecting water and protect it from UV damage, I don't see why a piece of plastic/composite like that can't last for several decades.

Edit: now that I think about it for 10 seconds, instead of a bend or dip, probably easier to just set it up so it slopes away from the house

Edit edit: Are those intended to be egress windows for rooms on the lower level? Or are they just small windows for light?

Glad to know I'm not completely out to lunch with the concept. :hfive:

My thought is a 45 degree angle bracket so there is a slope from the top where the bracket attached to the window housing down to the ground just beyond the edge of the concrete window well for the purposes of water drainage for the reasons you called out. They are not intended to be egress windows anymore; the basement used to be finished as a separate unit (duplex) but several years ago it was converted back into a basement and there is a street-level door out the front if poo poo were to ever get real and immediate egress was needed.

Even if I don't paint or treat it for UV, the cost is low enough that needing to replace them once in a while isn't a huge issue. Two of the three don't get that much direct sunlight anyway.

KS
Jun 10, 2003
Outrageous Lumpwad
I think the angle bracket attachment may be a problem. Rust lines running down the wall from the angle bracket or fasteners would kinda suck.

Zarin
Nov 11, 2008

I SEE YOU

Mackieman posted:

Glad to know I'm not completely out to lunch with the concept. :hfive:

My thought is a 45 degree angle bracket so there is a slope from the top where the bracket attached to the window housing down to the ground just beyond the edge of the concrete window well for the purposes of water drainage for the reasons you called out. They are not intended to be egress windows anymore; the basement used to be finished as a separate unit (duplex) but several years ago it was converted back into a basement and there is a street-level door out the front if poo poo were to ever get real and immediate egress was needed.

Even if I don't paint or treat it for UV, the cost is low enough that needing to replace them once in a while isn't a huge issue. Two of the three don't get that much direct sunlight anyway.

Ah okay; so the 45 bracket will have one flat screwed to the house, and the other one will support the upper edge of the plexi?

How long would it need to be? Just wondering if it's long enough that you'd want something supporting the plastic or not. In other words, if you think it would eventually sag under its own weight after repeated heating/cooling cycles, or if it's a short enough throw that that's probably not an issue.

Again, I'm thinking about "how can I make this thing last for 1000 years here" which is where my mind goes, but clearly not your intent so feel free to ignore all that! But yeah, I think that - in theory - your plan is pretty sound! This seems like one of those things where the only difference between the purpose-built solution and the inexpensive DIY solution are aesthetics.


KS posted:

I think the angle bracket attachment may be a problem. Rust lines running down the wall from the angle bracket or fasteners would kinda suck.


That is an excellent point. I wonder if it wouldn't be better to try and support the plastic part from underneath on the window well itself?

Beef Of Ages
Jan 11, 2003

Your dumb is leaking.

KS posted:

I think the angle bracket attachment may be a problem. Rust lines running down the wall from the angle bracket or fasteners would kinda suck.

Indeed, this is a good point and why I'm looking at galvanized, stainless, or whatever to resist rust. Slightly higher upfront cost for better materials is still miles below what the custom fit would be.

Zarin posted:

Ah okay; so the 45 bracket will have one flat screwed to the house, and the other one will support the upper edge of the plexi?

How long would it need to be? Just wondering if it's long enough that you'd want something supporting the plastic or not. In other words, if you think it would eventually sag under its own weight after repeated heating/cooling cycles, or if it's a short enough throw that that's probably not an issue.

Again, I'm thinking about "how can I make this thing last for 1000 years here" which is where my mind goes, but clearly not your intent so feel free to ignore all that! But yeah, I think that - in theory - your plan is pretty sound! This seems like one of those things where the only difference between the purpose-built solution and the inexpensive DIY solution are aesthetics.

Yup, you've got the idea. The throw from the edge of the window to the front edge of the concrete well is 20.5 inches, so if I mounted it three inches from the base, a (*quickly calculates the hypotenuse*) 21 inch throw should do nicely and be right over the edge. I don't think there'd be a need for additional support. And yeah, 1000 year plan may be pushing both the objective and my ability to build and install correctly. :)

Zarin
Nov 11, 2008

I SEE YOU

Mackieman posted:

Indeed, this is a good point and why I'm looking at galvanized, stainless, or whatever to resist rust. Slightly higher upfront cost for better materials is still miles below what the custom fit would be.


Yup, you've got the idea. The throw from the edge of the window to the front edge of the concrete well is 20.5 inches, so if I mounted it three inches from the base, a (*quickly calculates the hypotenuse*) 21 inch throw should do nicely and be right over the edge. I don't think there'd be a need for additional support. And yeah, 1000 year plan may be pushing both the objective and my ability to build and install correctly. :)

Probably beyond my ability too, but I tend to overbuild stuff all the same haha.

In my experience, galvanized and stainless will rust faster than you expect. I'd suggest maybe looking at aluminum, if you can find it.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Mackieman posted:

I have three basement window wells that are encased in concrete that need covers. Most stock window well covers at the Home Despot or other stores of that nature either don't fit the dimensions I need or are made for circular window wells that are made of plastic so you can clip the cover on it which is not the case for me. The only real options I'm seeing are to try to get one that is too large and cut it to size (at around $100 a pop) or get them custom made which is north of $250 per window. All of this seems horrifically stupid for something that isn't going to be seen (our house is in an urban environment and there isn't going to be some giant lawn, garden, or miscellaneous shrubberies to make this stuff match with).

The ultimate goal here is to keep trash/debris and most of the rain water out of the window wells. To that end, can anyone identify a significant problem with taking a sheet of polycarbonate acrylic, cutting it to size, attaching it to an an angle bracket which in turn attaches to the house, and some outdoor caulk to seal the joints? It's a $20 per window solution that seems to accomplish the same goal as the $250 model; even if I need to replace it after a year or two, I'm still well ahead of the game. :shrug:

I'm going to go against the grain and say you should save up and have custom ones made. It's a part of your home and part of the curb appeal. It will be an exposed structure that tells anyone what the quality of your home maintenence is. Custom formed clear plastic that is properly hinged will be nicer than sheets of acrylic cut to size and off the shelf hinges and fasteners.

Also it doesn't need to be water tight, just weather resistant. If a little moisture gets in, the house should be sealed up enough not to cause damage.

unknown
Nov 16, 2002
Ain't got no stinking title yet!


Just keep in mind the "drum" effect of the plexiglass if you get a lot of rain directly to the spots.

Zarin
Nov 11, 2008

I SEE YOU

StormDrain posted:

I'm going to go against the grain and say you should save up and have custom ones made. It's a part of your home and part of the curb appeal. It will be an exposed structure that tells anyone what the quality of your home maintenence is. Custom formed clear plastic that is properly hinged will be nicer than sheets of acrylic cut to size and off the shelf hinges and fasteners.

Also it doesn't need to be water tight, just weather resistant. If a little moisture gets in, the house should be sealed up enough not to cause damage.

This is a good point and an excellent post as well!

I was getting the impression it was hidden behind bushes or something.

Beef Of Ages
Jan 11, 2003

Your dumb is leaking.

StormDrain posted:

I'm going to go against the grain and say you should save up and have custom ones made. It's a part of your home and part of the curb appeal. It will be an exposed structure that tells anyone what the quality of your home maintenence is. Custom formed clear plastic that is properly hinged will be nicer than sheets of acrylic cut to size and off the shelf hinges and fasteners.

Also it doesn't need to be water tight, just weather resistant. If a little moisture gets in, the house should be sealed up enough not to cause damage.

I think this is solid advice as well, but in my specific case, no one will see any of this with any sort of frequency so I think I'm covered from a "that looks janky as hell" perspective. Curb appeal is important, hence the plan to get the whole of the outside of the house (brick) painted, but no one will see any of the rest of this and it's already nicer than a lot of the houses on the street. The joys of urban living. :D

And double hell yeah to the water resistant bit; there will be a small gap and that's fine, but the wells won't be full of poo poo and most of the water will be outside and that's the goal.

KidDynamite
Feb 11, 2005

Got another paint quote for 8k. Life is pain.

BaseballPCHiker
Jan 16, 2006

KidDynamite posted:

Got another paint quote for 8k. Life is pain.

Was this for the exterior of your house?

I need to paint soon, and have someone peel off the 50+ years of people just sloppily painting over already peeling paint. Was wondering what it would cost me and if I could save any money trying to peel some off myself.

Zarin
Nov 11, 2008

I SEE YOU

BaseballPCHiker posted:

Was this for the exterior of your house?

I need to paint soon, and have someone peel off the 50+ years of people just sloppily painting over already peeling paint. Was wondering what it would cost me and if I could save any money trying to peel some off myself.

I would think you could save some money; I've been talking to contractors about painting and landscaping and asking for a rough itemization with the understanding that "if I do some of it myself, how much can I save?" and nobody has seemed to take offense to that.

I don't know if you have access to a pressure washer, but that might do a decent job of peeling some paint off. Otherwise, I'm going to be doing some of that myself soon, so I can report back with what works well and what doesn't. The scraper is tried-and-true; my dad has a wire brush attachment that goes onto a sawz-all so I may give that a try and see what it does, too.

KS
Jun 10, 2003
Outrageous Lumpwad

Mackieman posted:

Curb appeal is important, hence the plan to get the whole of the outside of the house (brick) painted

I may be in the minority here but painted brick is an instapass from me, taking a maintenance free material (other than repointing) and ruining it. Doesn’t apply if it’s already painted I guess.

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf
Painted brick is the worst

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Freshly power washed brick > 30 year old faded vinyl siding > asbestos siding > painted brick

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KidDynamite
Feb 11, 2005

BaseballPCHiker posted:

Was this for the exterior of your house?

I need to paint soon, and have someone peel off the 50+ years of people just sloppily painting over already peeling paint. Was wondering what it would cost me and if I could save any money trying to peel some off myself.

This is for interior work.

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