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I'm finding the Lumineth pretty time consuming to paint in AoS. I don't know if that counts as hard, or just...time consuming.
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Apr 8, 2021 23:26
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 I painted a cute tank
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Apr 9, 2021 00:13
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Geisladisk posted:
What'd you do for the weathering?
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Apr 9, 2021 00:29
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Dreylad posted:I'm finding the Lumineth pretty time consuming to paint in AoS. I don't know if that counts as hard, or just...time consuming. Yah, honestly gently caress that. Bright whites with metal trim. Nooooo thank you.
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Apr 9, 2021 00:41
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Yeast posted:Yah, honestly gently caress that. Strangely enough, after painting necrons for most of the last year, this is the poo poo I crave. I just dipped my toes into lumineth with a box of wardens and I'm going with white and yellow because just gently caress my poo poo up fam. I am also a weirdo who really enjoys edge highlighting so 
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Apr 9, 2021 02:47
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Geisladisk posted:
GYRNO The weathering on the treads is awesome, I really want to try the water streaking down like you've done
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Apr 9, 2021 03:11
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I ordered this for an ability in the game they nerfed the next day. Still fun to paint though!  
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Apr 9, 2021 04:47
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Holllly shiiiiiit 
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Apr 9, 2021 07:25
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Yeast posted:Yah, honestly gently caress that. Nobody says you have to paint them white! But they are pretty detailed models, with lots of little bits and also lots of flowy cloths and armor pieces and stuff that takes awhile to paint.  This scheme is even canon!
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Apr 9, 2021 07:36
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Communist Walrus posted:What'd you do for the weathering? The mud is a copious amount of Typhus Corrosion. It has a little grit in it, so if you put down a lot, you get this nice crusty texture. I basecoated the armour with Vallejo khaki, then stippled it lightly with bonewhite. I then stipled little dots along the edges. Finally, I put a little typhus corrosion into the largest dots from the stippling. The streaking is really easy, just have a small amount of corrosion in the brush and drag it lightly down. The streak will naturally thin down the further you get.
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Apr 9, 2021 07:59
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I need to do a little green stuff repair of a detail (gap in a braid of hair) on a FW resin model because of an air bubble - will I need to use glue for that, or does green stuff stick well enough on its own?
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Apr 9, 2021 09:25
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Geisladisk posted:The mud is a copious amount of Typhus Corrosion. It has a little grit in it, so if you put down a lot, you get this nice crusty texture. Typhus Corrosion is surprisingly versatile. Or maybe versatile is the wrong word, because it only does like two things, but it does them pretty darn well and I'm surprised it isn't talked about more. I used it to ugly up the interior of a wrecked Rhino I'm working on and was very happy with the results. I think you took it to the next level, though. Well done! 
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Apr 9, 2021 11:20
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inscrutable horse posted:I need to do a little green stuff repair of a detail (gap in a braid of hair) on a FW resin model because of an air bubble - will I need to use glue for that, or does green stuff stick well enough on its own? Green Stuff on its own should work so long as you've properly washed off the mould release from the resin.
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Apr 9, 2021 20:59
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I was waiting for something on the wolf to dry so I put in a little effort on the base decoration to make up for it. Trying out volumetric lighting and blending 
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Apr 9, 2021 21:17
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Zaphod42 posted:Nobody says you have to paint them white! Dig up stupid! 
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Apr 9, 2021 22:39
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 I painted a robot
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Apr 10, 2021 00:28
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Geisladisk posted:
Nice! I like the weathering on the armour, and the base is pretty good too! I've not been painting as much the last few weeks, work stuff was hitting like a truck. But, I've had a week or so off, so I managed to get some stuff done! All Malifaux 2E/3E plastics. 3 Waldgeists. Theres a movie called "Barney Thompson" where someone describes Robert Carlyle as looking like a Haunted Tree, its all I could think of when painting these boys. The basing involved something I always find slightly comical; Painting actual wood so it looks more like wood.  A Librarian for the Freikorps faction. Almost entirely contrasts and metallics.  Hannah Lovelace, also Freikorps. There is an open sewer drain in the gutter on the base, so the tentacles are coming out of that, the angle of the photo does make it look a little like they are coming out of the cobbles. 
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Apr 10, 2021 11:48
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Two Beans posted:Green Stuff on its own should work so long as you've properly washed off the mould release from the resin. Cool, thank you!
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Apr 10, 2021 15:48
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xposting from specgames: Got my murder jocks ready to rampage, going to gently caress up some lizards tomorrow. 
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Apr 10, 2021 17:20
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:The real answer for budget weathering / pigment powders is to find some dry pastels (usually a couple bucks in the art section of your local Walmart / Michaels) and scrape them with your exacto knife. Same exact stuff the expensive powders are made from and you get way more + a huge variety of colors. Mixing a few different tones together gets you a much more realistic and more visually interesting look, too. I've said it before but I'll repeat it for the people in the back: DOLLAR STORE EYESHADOW PALETTES
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Apr 10, 2021 19:37
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I've been really busy this weekend.    
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Apr 11, 2021 03:49
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My thought process on this: "well ok, this wolf is gonna be a big shot in most games, so I should put effort into this. The wolf is going to be white leading up to black, mostly white though. Wait, there's a half of a rubric marine on the base. Since I did some proper highlights on that other one why not put in some more effort on this one. So there's a shoulder pad. Alright, what's the symbol that is usually on the left one for thousand sons? The main page for rubrics have an eye symbol that looks like the eye of horus on the right and an ouroboros on the left. And they're yellow. No. Not doing that. Well what do they do on the dead rubric on the store page for the wolf lord on thunderwolf. An eye in an 8 pointed star. Not bad let's give a shot at free handing an eye, i'm bad at drawing, what could go wrong?" A while later, I'm very proud of how it all came out, even if my picture setup kinda sucks    And with the wolf on it    All the riders are next up on the block, and that's all that's left for a 2000 point army. Spanish Manlove fucked around with this message at 04:46 on Apr 11, 2021 |
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Apr 11, 2021 04:42
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They're all good, but I really dig those cultists. Where are those from?
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Apr 11, 2021 05:17
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I finally made the leap and picked up one of those easy to assemble starter sets for space marines to finally put paint on some minis. Using the opportunity to just mess around and try a lot of different stuff. This one took me about 4 hours to do. I tried a few things, did base coat, shade, tried to do highlights with dry brushing, as well as messed around with the base. I am going to try edge highlights on the next one but I think I'm doing something wrong as I bent the tip on the two detail brushes I tried to use. Currently using cheap synthetic brushes trying to figure out what I am doing to beat them up so fast.  
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Apr 11, 2021 07:38
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Nunes posted:I finally made the leap and picked up one of those easy to assemble starter sets for space marines to finally put paint on some minis. Using the opportunity to just mess around and try a lot of different stuff. This one took me about 4 hours to do. I tried a few things, did base coat, shade, tried to do highlights with dry brushing, as well as messed around with the base. I am going to try edge highlights on the next one but I think I'm doing something wrong as I bent the tip on the two detail brushes I tried to use. Currently using cheap synthetic brushes trying to figure out what I am doing to beat them up so fast. I love me some cheap synthetic brushes (particularly when you are starting out and more likely to gently caress up and damage a brush) but their one big drawback; They all eventually get a J-tip (the tip bends like the letter J). Now, I will say that you are INCREDIBLY unlucky if it happened to 2 brushes in a 4 hour span, I've got some cheap brushes that I've been using for more than a year which are still fine, I've had a couple which got it incredibly fast, but thats a couple out of I dont know how many brushes, and by incredibly fast I still mean "longer than an afternoon". I've heard that using the middle of the brush rather than the tip can cause it to happen faster, but still, one 4 hour session? Make sure you are cleaning them thoroughly and regularly throughout your painting session and try to paint mainly with the tip (I mean, dont panic about it, sometimes you need to use the side of the brush, and the really beautiful thing about cheap synthetics is the word "cheap" so if you gently caress 'em up, oh well, they were cheap anyway.). I'm assuming you didnt drybrush with the detail brushes? That tends to be hard on brushes but I think makes them splay more than hook. Anyway, for a short term solution; you can try to repoint them. if you have brush soap/conditioner that can help, theres a video here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IcYRR3DEniU abotu cleaning synthetics and fixing a hooked tip. I will admit I havent actually followed the steps in the video myself, but its gotta be worth a try if you have the products to hand. On the upside, a) the J-tip can actually be useful for painting awkward areas (and I oddly find it easier to do a straight line with a J-tip than a straight brush, but that could just be me) and b) there is no such thing as a useless brush, merely a brush that has been relegated to drybrushing (cant ruin a brush thats already ruined after all) or applying texture pastes and PVA glue. If a regular brush is hosed beyond all hope I'll sometimes cut the tip off to make a poo poo detail brush into a decent drybrush. Edit to add: Is that your literal first miniature? If so you're doing well! weathering on the boots looks really good!
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Apr 11, 2021 10:33
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A quick PSA for anyone who cares: If you're looking for bulk wine corks for painting handles (in case you don't like the GW buttplug or whatever), Whole Foods stores will have a big box in the front of the store to recycle corks, and they don't care if people want to grab a handful or so for other purposes.
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Apr 11, 2021 16:58
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PoptartsNinja posted:They're all good, but I really dig those cultists. Where are those from? I picked up these STL files since I was looking for solid, generic cultists.
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Apr 11, 2021 17:17
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Next Kill Team I'm painting up (since Dark Angels and Necrons are done) is Astra Militarum, using the wonderful "Valour Guard" series of models from Maker's Cult, which are fantastic DKOK proxies. Finished up the Sargeant today.  When I get some weathering pigments I'll make him more... Grungy, but I think this is a good start.
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Apr 11, 2021 20:29
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 I feel like GW's tutorials have gone downhill since Duncan left. I get that the tutorials can't get too advanced but that face is.... not good for a professional painter.
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Apr 11, 2021 20:40
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That is way too badly done yeah, but I guess even GW painters can suffer from the curse of chalky paints.
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Apr 11, 2021 20:47
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rakarth flesh is maybe the grittiest pot of paint in my collection so yeah i can believe that
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Apr 11, 2021 20:52
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Cooked Auto posted:That is way too badly done yeah, but I guess even GW painters can suffer from the curse of chalky paints. The worst part of it is that they recommend 37 different paints for it (though that's a general GW tutorial problem).    jesus WEP posted:rakarth flesh is maybe the grittiest pot of paint in my collection so yeah i can believe that Huh, I paint a lot with rakarth flesh currently and have zero problems. Might be due to a couple drops of flow improver I put in it?
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Apr 11, 2021 20:53
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Winklebottom posted:The worst part of it is that they recommend 37 different paints for it (though that's a general GW tutorial problem). holy poo poo that's like my entire ... wait ... let met check ... ok that's like a quarter of all the paints I have just for one model
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Apr 11, 2021 21:23
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SiKboy posted:I love me some cheap synthetic brushes (particularly when you are starting out and more likely to gently caress up and damage a brush) but their one big drawback; They all eventually get a J-tip (the tip bends like the letter J). Now, I will say that you are INCREDIBLY unlucky if it happened to 2 brushes in a 4 hour span, I've got some cheap brushes that I've been using for more than a year which are still fine, I've had a couple which got it incredibly fast, but thats a couple out of I dont know how many brushes, and by incredibly fast I still mean "longer than an afternoon". I've heard that using the middle of the brush rather than the tip can cause it to happen faster, but still, one 4 hour session? Make sure you are cleaning them thoroughly and regularly throughout your painting session and try to paint mainly with the tip (I mean, dont panic about it, sometimes you need to use the side of the brush, and the really beautiful thing about cheap synthetics is the word "cheap" so if you gently caress 'em up, oh well, they were cheap anyway.). I'm assuming you didnt drybrush with the detail brushes? That tends to be hard on brushes but I think makes them splay more than hook. It was the first batch of 4. You can see the others blurred in the background. Thank you for the info about the brushes. The J tip is exactly what happened to both. You have given me some stuff to watch out for now!
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Apr 11, 2021 21:26
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Cross-posting from the scale modelling thread because... Pretty sure these could be used in a game, no problem:Cthulu Carl posted:Adding to the model ship chat, I finally got back to working on the 1:3000 IJN fleet diorama. Cthulu Carl fucked around with this message at 02:09 on Apr 12, 2021 |
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Apr 11, 2021 21:27
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Winklebottom posted:The worst part of it is that they recommend 37 different paints for it (though that's a general GW tutorial problem). If anything the way they present those are bad because it all looks like a jumbled heap and doesn't really specify where they all go since its divided in the same manner as on the webstore. Instead of doing the smart thing and show where they all go on the model. Which would make things a helluva lot more readable. But yeah, they are leaning hard on contrasts for pretty much everything these days. Which is both and a bad thing. But at least they've dropped any mentions of the shitpile that is the Citadel painting app. v vWinklebottom posted:Huh, I paint a lot with rakarth flesh currently and have zero problems. Might be due to a couple drops of flow improver I put in it? Perhaps. But I've had issues with Rakarth Flesh before. Not as much as with Pallid Wych Flesh which has ruined more than one attempt at painting pale skin in the past.
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Apr 11, 2021 21:42
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Winklebottom posted:The worst part of it is that they recommend 37 different paints for it (though that's a general GW tutorial problem). drat what happened to just mixing paints for your shades and highlights...
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Apr 11, 2021 22:18
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That hasn't been a thing with GW for at least a decade by now. You're not exactly going to hear GW make any real mention of it through their official channels.
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Apr 11, 2021 22:23
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That's like $150 CND in paint. I mean you'll use it for other stuff but god drat.
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Apr 11, 2021 22:44
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There is probably also a lot of color overlap with the other models in the Vampire warband.
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Apr 11, 2021 22:50
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