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First roll of Astia (bought from our own Wild EEPROM) is far more  than I expected, and I dig it.   First roll of Foma 100 is mostly a disappointment. Lots of defects that look like:   Fortunately it requires pixel peeping. Still, I am interested in hearing opinions. Is this a common defect, or is this a lab thing?   
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Apr 11, 2021 02:16
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I quite like the look of that, the bee and butterfly shots have a nice grain, and I like the tonality. I've got some foma 100 coming to play with cause it's the cheapest film available so I'll get back to you. I grabbed it to run through my pinhole without looking at reciprocity charts beforehand and lol  Might be interesting to explore for really long exposures but I'm usually not down for waiting for 30 minutes for a 2 minute calculated. Megabound fucked around with this message at 02:29 on Apr 11, 2021 |
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Apr 11, 2021 02:24
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Megabound posted:I quite like the look of that, the bee and butterfly shots have a nice grain, and I like the tonality. Holy poo poo, have fun with that.
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Apr 11, 2021 02:35
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Luckily 2 minutes was my longest exposure, under a bridge, in the rain and that was at least a stop over exposed so hopefully it won't be that bad.
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Apr 11, 2021 02:44
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theHUNGERian posted:First roll of Foma 100 is mostly a disappointment. Lots of defects that look like: Fomapan scratches pretty easy so it’s possible it happened at the lab.
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Apr 11, 2021 04:41
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Megabound posted:Might be interesting to explore for really long exposures but I'm usually not down for waiting for 30 minutes for a 2 minute calculated. This is why I use Acros for my pinhole photos! No reciprocity failure up to 2 minutes metered, 1/2 stop from there to 1000 seconds.
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Apr 11, 2021 05:57
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Yeah, the first roll I ran through it was Acros for that reason, actually off you talking about, but I've only got 2 rolls left. I feel like I should hit up Eeprom for his stash.
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Apr 11, 2021 06:02
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Big dumb 3D printed 6x12 works but the focus is way off (as I kinda thought), consistently focusing closer than I thought I was and getting nowhere near infinity. Could be a bit of a pain to fix at this point but I'll have to give it a go...  
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Apr 17, 2021 02:33
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Hey MF crew, A lens for my RZ67 Pro II is acting up, and while it is just a nuisance (not really a problem, since there is an easy hack) I am curious if this can be fixed. When I install my 210 mm apo, at first everything is ok: The shutter is open as it should be, so I can see an image when looking through the viewfinder. I then put the camera on the passenger seat of my car and drive to my location. The camera is off during all this. Upon arriving, I notice that the shutter has closed randomly, meaning I can no longer see anything through the viewfinder (yes, the lens cap has been removed). My hack is to put the lens cap back on, set the camera to multiexposure, smallest aperture, shortest exposure, expose, and "advance" the film (which will only reset the mirror and cock the shutter). I am then ready to expose for real, and switch out of multiexposure when I get the frame. How would I go about diagnosing this? It routinely happens on just this one lens. theHUNGERian fucked around with this message at 18:58 on Apr 18, 2021 |
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Apr 18, 2021 18:54
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theHUNGERian posted:Hey MF crew, How many times has this happened? Do you lock your shutter button between shots? I had something like this happen when I accidentally bumped the lens into T mode and hadn't locked the shutter button.
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Apr 21, 2021 21:16
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MrBlandAverage posted:How many times has this happened? Do you lock your shutter button between shots? I had something like this happen when I accidentally bumped the lens into T mode and hadn't locked the shutter button. This has happened four times now, and each time a car trip was involved (on the cushioned passenger seat). I turn the camera off immediately after taking a shot, before advancing to the next frame. And the camera was off as I installed the lens (and the shutter was open) and it remained off during the trip to the location (where, upon arriving, I realized that the shutter had closed). There is literally no way I could accidentally put the lens into T mode as that would require two very precise knocks. Accidentally switching out of T mode? Sure, that could happen.
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Apr 22, 2021 00:38
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theHUNGERian posted:This has happened four times now, and each time a car trip was involved (on the cushioned passenger seat). I turn the camera off immediately after taking a shot, before advancing to the next frame. And the camera was off as I installed the lens (and the shutter was open) and it remained off during the trip to the location (where, upon arriving, I realized that the shutter had closed). There is literally no way I could accidentally put the lens into T mode as that would require two very precise knocks. Accidentally switching out of T mode? Sure, that could happen. Unless the 210 APO has some extra mechanisms the other lenses don't - I don't have any direct experience of that specific lens - it's easier than you think to actuate the T switch. It doesn't take very much force at all to engage the T button lock; in my case it was a surface pressing against the switch just enough and then the lens moving. I don't know for sure that's what happened to you, but it's the kind of thing I can definitely imagine happening if the T switch is touching a car seat. What does "off" mean? I'm asking which position the release button collar was in - it could be, per the manual, "normal operation" (white dot on collar aligned with white dot on collar stop lever) or "locked" (white dot on collar aligned with red dot on body) or "emergency shutter operation" (white dot on collar aligned with orange dot on body).
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Apr 22, 2021 17:48
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theHUNGERian posted:First roll of Astia (bought from our own Wild EEPROM) is far more Good stuff love to see it. Especially the first one even though it’s not oriented to its real life direction. Don’t see Astia very often, but that that’s pretty much how it looks and not due to age?
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Apr 23, 2021 01:22
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MrBlandAverage posted:Unless the 210 APO has some extra mechanisms the other lenses don't - I don't have any direct experience of that specific lens - it's easier than you think to actuate the T switch. It doesn't take very much force at all to engage the T button lock; in my case it was a surface pressing against the switch just enough and then the lens moving. I don't know for sure that's what happened to you, but it's the kind of thing I can definitely imagine happening if the T switch is touching a car seat. It was in "locked". I'll take a close look at how the lens sits in the car next time I go out. But between the metered prism and the lens shade, something would have to protrude from the passenger seat in a very specific way to switch it into T mode. But anyway, it's the best lead I have at the moment, so I will take a look. Perhaps it was my rear end that touched it while I was loading/unloading it from the car? SMERSH Mouth posted:Good stuff love to see it. Especially the first one even though it’s not oriented to its real life direction. My noob-noob film editing is still a factor. Megabound had some positive critique on another frame from that roll which I posted in the chill thread. Reviewing these frames now, the shadows may have a magenta cast. Color balance has never been my strength, and I am working on it.
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Apr 23, 2021 01:41
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Does a slide scan even need much correcting beyond a white point? The only thing I can think of that’s theoretically going to gently caress up your representation of the positive would be possible color cast from the scanner’s light. I’ve never done it though.
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Apr 23, 2021 03:27
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SMERSH Mouth posted:Does a slide scan even need much correcting beyond a white point? The only thing I can think of that’s theoretically going to gently caress up your representation of the positive would be possible color cast from the scanner’s light. This was my first time scanning a positive, so I have no idea. All I can say is that the pop of color was a nice change of pace from Portra 400 and Pro 400H (the only color films I have shot until I shot that roll of Astia).
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Apr 23, 2021 03:32
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Yes you do have to do color correction with slides.
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Apr 23, 2021 04:02
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First roll of Agfa Copex Rapid 50. Curly as gently caress.    
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Apr 29, 2021 01:30
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SMERSH Mouth posted:Does a slide scan even need much correcting beyond a white point? The only thing I can think of that’s theoretically going to gently caress up your representation of the positive would be possible color cast from the scanner’s light. Besides white balance, the shadows and highlights can have a color cast on the film itself.
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Apr 29, 2021 02:03
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May 1, 2021 01:44
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^ that last one is great!
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May 2, 2021 11:20
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Has anyone used a 6x9 slide in roll film back with a chamonix n2? The thickness of the backs vary a little between manufacturers (thus moving the film plane?), and I'm not sure if it's enough to make a difference when focusing. Found this little chart for reference: Model Type / Formats / Depth Cambo slide-in / 6x4.5 / 4.95mm Cambo slide-in / 6x7, 6x9 / 4.95mm Cambo slide-in / 6x12 / 4.95mm Horseman clip-on / 6x7,6x9 / 4.95mm Horseman clip-on / 6x12 / 4.95mm Linhof S-Rollex clip-on / 6x7,6x9 / 4.85mm Linhof Rapid Rollex slide-in / 6x7 / 4.85mm Linhof Techno-Rollex clip-on / 6x12 / 4.85mm Sinar Zoom slide-in / 6x4.5 to 6x12 / 4.85mm Sinar standard slide-in / 6x7, 6x9 / 4.85mm Toyo clip-on / 6x7,6x9 / 5.05mm Wista clip-on / 6x7, 6x9 / 5.10mm Wista Type DX / slide-in 6x7, 6x9 / 5.10mm
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May 7, 2021 22:47
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are there any hotspots for picking up high-quality MF/LF capable scanner gear beyond APUG and LFF?
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May 8, 2021 04:55
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Paul MaudDib posted:are there any hotspots for picking up high-quality MF/LF capable scanner gear beyond APUG and LFF? my post in the buy/sell thread :p
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May 8, 2021 07:08
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Paul MaudDib posted:are there any hotspots for picking up high-quality MF/LF capable scanner gear beyond APUG and LFF? If you're not in a hurry, Craigslist (or local equivalent) or FB marketplace, which is increasingly taking over local buy/sell sites. I am pretty sure my GT-X970 is toast from getting shipped without the scanning head locked (need to open it up and have one more crack at it, doesn't help that getting drivers is a nightmare) but I scored a 2450 on Marketplace for $30 last week. I suppose "high quality" is debateable there, but I've seen decent stuff come up before. Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 08:46 on May 8, 2021 |
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May 8, 2021 08:40
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Ethics_Gradient posted:If you're not in a hurry, Craigslist (or local equivalent) or FB marketplace, which is increasingly taking over local buy/sell sites. I am pretty sure my GT-X970 is toast from getting shipped without the scanning head locked (need to open it up and have one more crack at it, doesn't help that getting drivers is a nightmare) but I scored a 2450 on Marketplace for $30 last week. I suppose "high quality" is debateable there, but I've seen decent stuff come up before. Yeah agreed I got a v800 off Craigslist for like $450 with Silverfast. I see a handful pop up locally every now and then.
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May 8, 2021 16:33
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If a LF lens with enough coverage for 8x10 is mounted on a 5x7 camera with a 6x17 back, are there any circumstances where it will vignette? For example, I see 6x17 backs for 4x5 cameras and a common anecdote (without supporting equations or ray diagrams) is that they will vignette above a certain focal length. Specifically, DAYI makes a 6x12, 6x14, 6x17 back for 5x7 Kodak Linhof Technika Cameras, and I wanted to know if I can use any 8x10 lens between 120 mm and 350 mm without having to worry about vignetting. I doubt 6x17 will see the most use (I think I will be mostly playing with 6x12 and 6x14), and I am considering a 5x7 instead of a 4x5 camera, but it would be nice to understand how these things are determined so I don't have to rely on anecdotes.
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May 8, 2021 17:11
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Google Butt posted:Has anyone used a 6x9 slide in roll film back with a chamonix n2? The thickness of the backs vary a little between manufacturers (thus moving the film plane?), and I'm not sure if it's enough to make a difference when focusing. I don't know how your source measured and I can't speak to its accuracy, but here goes... Per ANSI spec IT3.108-1998, the standard depth of a 4x5 film holder is 5mm +/- .178mm, with minimum .30mm clearance for film. Thickness of 4x5 sheet film varies a little bit, but is generally right around 0.17mm-0.18mm, which would put you right up next to that 4.85mm number. That said, the 4.95mm should be "acceptably sharp" if that's what you're going for. There's a minimum .30mm depth for the film rail height in a sheet film holder, which means you've got .12mm (ish) worth of slop in the best case regardless. My optics math is pretty rusty, but a back-of-the-envelope estimate says that, if you're using a 150mm lens, working distance of 5 meters, 0.1mm movement means a critical focus shift of about 10cm, a touch under four inches. Your depth of field should cover unless you're shooting a 2.8 Xenotar wide open or something; if you're doing critical focus work you may want to get some good calipers and measure your camera from the contact surface to the ground glass. Based on your numbers, I would be a little skeptical of the >5mm depths at first glance, which strikes me as odd because Toyo generally makes pretty excellent gear. That might be a factor from slightly different designs and expectations? e: minor clarifications; I'm running late to an appointment Cassius Belli fucked around with this message at 17:41 on May 8, 2021 |
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May 8, 2021 17:22
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Google Butt posted:Has anyone used a 6x9 slide in roll film back with a chamonix n2? The thickness of the backs vary a little between manufacturers (thus moving the film plane?), and I'm not sure if it's enough to make a difference when focusing. I have a Chamonix 045N-2 and both Horseman and Sinar Zoom backs and I have not noticed the 0.1mm difference in practical use. I don't use them for portrait distances as in Yond Cassius' calculation, FWIW. I'm guessing that you're not doing critical focus work with a Chamonix and rollfilm backs.
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May 9, 2021 19:11
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MrBlandAverage posted:I have a Chamonix 045N-2 and both Horseman and Sinar Zoom backs and I have not noticed the 0.1mm difference in practical use. I don't use them for portrait distances as in Yond Cassius' calculation, FWIW. I'm guessing that you're not doing critical focus work with a Chamonix and rollfilm backs. Nah I'm not, just wasn't sure if it was something to consider. Any thoughts on those two backs?
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May 9, 2021 19:30
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Google Butt posted:Nah I'm not, just wasn't sure if it was something to consider. Any thoughts on those two backs? I got the Sinar Zoom to do 6x12 and because I got a deal on it, but it's pretty fiddly. The Horseman I have is 6x7, and it's simple and dead reliable. The fact that you can't just slide it in discourages its use for some subjects, though.
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May 10, 2021 01:58
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Looking for some info on my Bronica EC: I have the metered viewfinder, and it has what appear to be electrical contacts on its base that align with similar receptacles on the camera body. Trouble is I can’t figure out what they’re for. The meter works well enough when set manually, but I’m wondering if this add-on allows aperture priority shooting or something. Any ideas? E: Well, poo poo. Never mind. Just figured out that it lets me control shutter speed from the knob on the side. Been casually trying to sort that out for a while now.  
President Beep fucked around with this message at 17:13 on May 11, 2021 |
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May 11, 2021 17:05
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120 on Holga, taken in the Kansas City West Bottoms
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May 13, 2021 19:02
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Round 3 of FOMA bitching: While unloading a finished roll of FOMA 400 (which someone had accidentally placed in a FOMA 100 box), I noticed that the sealing tape had gotten stuck on the spool, it was completely removed from the roll film and it was stuck on the film spool and the pressure plate.
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May 15, 2021 17:13
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foma is rear end foma is a zen lesson that your time is worth more than the extra dollar an hour
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May 15, 2021 18:07
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Foma is a lesson in false economy.
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May 15, 2021 18:46
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Looking forward to getting out and doing some shooting this week but my last roll had a number of images that were back focused. Hoping it’s just my lovely skills rather than a problem with my camera.
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May 15, 2021 19:25
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This only makes me appreciate Ilford even more so than I already had.
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May 15, 2021 20:38
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Gonna try doing this today, seems kinda fun and neat. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LuDwwTMwr1I
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May 15, 2021 21:01
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 Turtle town:    An accidental double exposure: 
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May 16, 2021 01:29
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