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flightless greeb posted:I'm in the midst of a grand scheme lol - I'm trying to get down to one do everything car but I haven't decided on what it is yet. I sold my audi, I've got another spare boring car to sell then I'll buy a replacement and then I'll sell the VW. the 'not break the bank' option for me here was an S5
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Apr 8, 2021 22:56
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I’ve got a 2012 GTI that just had the low oil pressure warning go on briefly while I was taking a fast turn and then went off. Turns out my oil was super low, only 5400 miles after my last change. I used to be able to go the full 10k without issues. It’s a little over 110k miles now and no leaks I can find. Is it something worth having checked or is this typical for this kind of age/mileage and I’ll just need to keep it topped off in between changes?
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Apr 9, 2021 03:00
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latinotwink1997 posted:I’ve got a 2012 GTI that just had the low oil pressure warning go on briefly while I was taking a fast turn and then went off. Turns out my oil was super low, only 5400 miles after my last change. I used to be able to go the full 10k without issues. It’s a little over 110k miles now and no leaks I can find. Is it something worth having checked or is this typical for this kind of age/mileage and I’ll just need to keep it topped off in between changes? Could be the rear main seal going?
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Apr 9, 2021 03:23
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(Crossposting to the AI help thread also) Okay so I have a 2007 GTI, intermittent P0100 code (MAF circuit malfunction). Car drives normally and then sometimes has a tiny stutter on throttle and the light will turn on. This happens once every 2-3 weeks and sometimes the CEL will turn itself off without me clearing it, then will show up later on. I figured this was a loose connection or intermittent connection. Previously Surburban Dad posted this reply: Suburban Dad posted:Recheck the wiring to the sensor, maybe find a wiring diagram and a multimeter and check and see if you can find where it connects to the ECM. Easiest way to do this (assuming you have a wiring pinout) is to check resistance between the ECM pin to the corresponding pin on the MAF connector. Assuming it's the same wire, if you find infinite resistance you have a break somewhere along the wire or connection in between. Could be that or the sensor itself being dead but I figure you'd get a ton more codes since usually the MAF contains multiple other sensors within (temp, baro, etc.). If you can use one of those apps you have to get MAF readings (might also look for baro and inlet air temp/IAT to confirm they're working), what do they say? A value at idle somewhere in the range of 2-15ish g/s (cold start will be slightly higher due to higher idle speed, also depends on engine size so could be slightly higher -assuming a 1.8 or 2.0L turbo?) suggests it's probably working, otherwise it might be reading something wonky if the sensor/wiring is bad. If I had to bet, it's not a power or ground wire, but one of the signal wires that's broken somewhere. I got around to this today, using Torque graphed the following while I drove around my block (2nd and 3rd gear and not hitting peak boost):  At idle:  That data looks really normal to me but I'd be curious if anyone thinks otherwise. It was probably in closed loop still as the engine wasn't to temperature. There's that spot on the mk5 GTIs where the MAF loom is kinked 90 deg to a clip on the air tube that feeds turbo sound into the firewall. There have been reports of a wire failing in that area because of the awkward kink. I left the engine running and pulled the loom out of the clip there and manipulated it every which way while watching live data from the MAF and nothing unusual happened. I grabbed the harness plug (onto the MAF from the loom) and wiggled it around, pulled at each wire, twisted stuff about, again nothing unusual on the live graph. Any idea for next place to look? I'm reluctant to take the MAF out to hit it with sensor cleaner after seeing what looks like very normal readings. I don't see any area where unmetered air could be entering the intake tract after the MAF. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 03:37 on Apr 9, 2021 |
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Apr 9, 2021 03:25
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FWIW, when my MAF errors came up on the same car, they were not intermittent and I was getting basically a flat signal from the sensor. It ended up being a dead wire, not sure if it was because of that kink or if a squirrel bit through it.
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Apr 9, 2021 03:53
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Proud Christian Mom posted:the 'not break the bank' option for me here was an S5 I test drove one and they're nice but the combo of lack of cool exterior colors, the RS5 sport back existing but being too far out of my price range and the digital dash have all kind of pushed it aside for me
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Apr 9, 2021 06:16
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The digital dash owns tho
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Apr 9, 2021 08:23
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Like half the cars I'm interested in have digital dashboards so hopefully I can learn to agree!
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Apr 9, 2021 14:24
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flightless greeb posted:In other news since I submitted a request for an estimate for my '19 GSW to Shift (14k miles, they offered $17,500) they've since revised that to $17,900 and then just today up to $19,400 which is very lmao - used car prices must be going nuts right now. Man this is wild, this made me look into getting a quote for my 2014 Mazda 3 and they offered 15.7 to carvana 11.4. I think that’s too good for me to pass up, but uh man thanks for posting that tidbit!
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Apr 10, 2021 20:58
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I have another question about manual shifting on my 2018 VW Golf that I've been driving around for a while. I have around 3000km on it so far. It's usually fine and pretty smooth, but there's something that really bothers me and I don't know if it's me or the car to blame. Basically, sometimes, when I depress the clutch (and I do that quickly, I don't just slowly push it down), the car seems to slow down a bit. I don't feel it, but if I have a passenger on the right, I see their head tilting forward, as if the car slowed down a bit too abruptly. When I depress the clutch I would expect the car to continue smoothly at that speed, and slowly slow down, but from the reaction of my passenger, it seems that the car brakes too fast and I just cannot fathom the reason why would it do that. Should I just go to a higher RPM before trying to upshift? 4-5k? Still, why would the car suddenly brake when it has the clutch depressed? I am not touching the brake nor the gas pedal. The clutch is all the way down. Am I doing it wrong? Is there a problem with my brakes maybe they're trying to actively slow the car ... maybe all the time?
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Apr 11, 2021 01:17
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Doesn't seem abnormal to me. With the clutch engaged (meaning that the pedal is not depressed), and your foot on the gas, the engine is providing power to sustain the car's speed, even if the car isn't accelerating. Once you disengage the clutch, you've removed that power source, so the car starts to slow immediately because the frictional forces of the tires on the road and drag are no longer being offset by engine power. The car is not applying the brakes, I promise.
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Apr 11, 2021 02:20
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Doesn't seem abnormal to me. With the clutch engaged (meaning that the pedal is not depressed), and your foot on the gas, the engine is providing power to sustain the car's speed, even if the car isn't accelerating. Once you disengage the clutch, you've removed that power source, so the car starts to slow immediately because the frictional forces of the tires on the road and drag are no longer being offset by engine power. I understand that without the engine providing power to the wheels it should slow down, it's just that, based on the reaction of my passenger, it seems that it slows down too abruptly. I cannot feel it and I think that this is because I'm both heavier and I'm holding the steering wheel. I believe that driving a manual shouldn't be any rougher than driving an automatic, but I could be wrong, of course. Anyway, that's my goal at least, and so far I'm failing at it.
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Apr 11, 2021 04:36
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latinotwink1997 posted:I’ve got a 2012 GTI that just had the low oil pressure warning go on briefly while I was taking a fast turn and then went off. Turns out my oil was super low, only 5400 miles after my last change. I used to be able to go the full 10k without issues. It’s a little over 110k miles now and no leaks I can find. Is it something worth having checked or is this typical for this kind of age/mileage and I’ll just need to keep it topped off in between changes? Honestly, 10k changes are kinda sketchy, between minor consumption all engines have and possible leaks, I don't do more than 7k at most, 5k if I can spare the funds for a change.
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Apr 11, 2021 05:10
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Volguus posted:I understand that without the engine providing power to the wheels it should slow down, it's just that, based on the reaction of my passenger, it seems that it slows down too abruptly. I cannot feel it and I think that this is because I'm both heavier and I'm holding the steering wheel. I believe that driving a manual shouldn't be any rougher than driving an automatic, but I could be wrong, of course. Anyway, that's my goal at least, and so far I'm failing at it. no one buys a manual for the smooth ride
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Apr 11, 2021 05:26
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Volguus posted:I have another question about manual shifting on my 2018 VW Golf that I've been driving around for a while. I have around 3000km on it so far. It's usually fine and pretty smooth, but there's something that really bothers me and I don't know if it's me or the car to blame. This is totally normal. You're not doing anything wrong and there's nothing wrong with the car. I've noticed this too over the years. I think the reason is that you know you are about to shift and have yourself braced/pushed back against the seat by the act of pushing your foot on the clutch. The passenger is just relaxing so when the car loses momentum they aren't expecting it and end up just bobbing forward a bit.
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Apr 11, 2021 05:34
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Volguus posted:I have another question about manual shifting on my 2018 VW Golf that I've been driving around for a while. I have around 3000km on it so far. It's usually fine and pretty smooth, but there's something that really bothers me and I don't know if it's me or the car to blame. It happens if you're accelerating and suddenly pushing in the clutch, which makes the car stop accelerating while you and the passenger are continuing to accelerate and are being slowed down by the seatbelt. Remember that velocity and acceleration are not the same. You can smooth it out by maintaining a consistent speed between shifts. Try not to push the clutch in and take your foot off the gas at the same time. Slowly take your foot off the gas, then push in the clutch. Think of it this way, it's going to happen more if you're drag racing from 0 to 60 and shifting 2nd to 3rd abruptly than it is if you're maintaining 60mph and shifting from 5th to 6th. Even if you're starting from a stop and trying to get to speed you'll get smoother shifts if you take your time and be patient.
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Apr 11, 2021 05:59
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2013 Jetta with e brake not working. On examination the handbrake apparatus is disconnected from the ebrake cables, and one of the cables is 2-3" longer than the other, so the carrier thing can't be tightened up on them both because they aren't even. Going to pull the rear wheels off and see if the e-brake levers on the calipers are stuck (tomorrow) unless anyone has a better idea?
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Apr 11, 2021 06:10
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Thank you very much for the replies. Gave me much needed information on how I can improve the comfort of my passengers.
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Apr 11, 2021 06:44
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you are expecting the shift, your passenger is not, and you're right that you are braced with the wheel so therefore there's going to be less of an effect on you as well.
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Apr 11, 2021 16:00
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FWIW I don't think I've been a passenger in a manual car and not had that same experience even somewhat expecting it more than maybe a normal occupant.
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Apr 11, 2021 16:16
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it depends heavily on your skill at driving stick, my dad for instance does not rev match and refuses to do so, and naturally this makes being a passenger fairly unpleasant
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Apr 11, 2021 17:36
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i'm so glad i'm not the only one that feels like driving with a passenger makes me hyper aware of every little imperfection of my shifting, compared to driving alone when it feels smooth like butter the passenger not having the mental foresight about when shifts are about to happen totally explains it
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Apr 11, 2021 18:56
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I have to short shift and accelerate slowly when Im driving with my mom, because she is hyper sensitive and I wont hear the end of it If I drive normally with her.
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Apr 12, 2021 16:32
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How are the Gen 3 ea888 1.8s holding up? I'm eyeballing TDI Sportwagens but I dont know if I want to worry about the HPFP and general emissions issues. The 1.4 sounds kind of gutless, how is the driving experience with those?
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Apr 13, 2021 21:50
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User Error posted:How are the Gen 3 ea888 1.8s holding up? I'm eyeballing TDI Sportwagens but I dont know if I want to worry about the HPFP and general emissions issues. The 1.4 sounds kind of gutless, how is the driving experience with those? If you keep up with your Fuel Filter and never mess up and put gas in your diesel, the HPFP are perfectly reliable, and most of the Diesel Emissions stuff is covered under extended warranties now.
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Apr 13, 2021 21:52
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User Error posted:How are the Gen 3 ea888 1.8s holding up? I'm eyeballing TDI Sportwagens but I dont know if I want to worry about the HPFP and general emissions issues. The 1.4 sounds kind of gutless, how is the driving experience with those? I own a Golf with the 1.8T, and I had to have the engine replaced at ~50,000 miles despite getting pretty close to 5,000 mile oil changes all its life. Luckily it was all covered by the warranty. I try not to worry about it too much, and plan on keeping up with the oil changes. I’ve also driven a couple Golfs with the 1.4T, and haven’t found them noticeably slower than the 1.8, but I’m a slow and steady driver. The 1.4 is quite a bit lighter, and it does seem to make the car feel a little more nimble too. I haven’t driven a Sportswagen (or a diesel VW) though, so sorry if this isn’t helpful.
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Apr 13, 2021 23:12
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Drove the RS3 from Ohio to Denver, and finally got to wring it around the mountains. Hearing a 5 cylinder wail between canyon walls at high revs was unbelievable; it felt like I was driving a baby Group B car.   And the "before" where it isn't filthy from the 1000+ mile trip 
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Apr 15, 2021 22:02
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That engine owns, also sounds like a blast!
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Apr 15, 2021 22:57
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why no audio recording??
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Apr 16, 2021 13:44
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5 cylinders best cylinders.
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Apr 16, 2021 19:28
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I guess we can talk about other brands than VW and Audi that are under the same umbrella? I went looking for a bit larger used car than my Mazda2 that would have cruise control, bluetooth, a/c and at least the same performance. Renault Clio wagon was only available in the 90 hp TCE which was even slower than the Mazda so that was out. Only two options were the Seat Ibiza and Skoda Fabia, which were practically the same cars on the same platform (Volkswagen's PQ26 small car platform) using same engines, the Skoda has better brand recognition (and higher resale value) so I went with the Seat Ibiza wagon because it was 20% cheaper when comparing between similar mileage cars.  It has the EA211 1.2 TSI lower tune which is 90 hp, which isn't much (same as the Clio but has more torque) but is enough even for towing 400 kgs with fully loaded car. Installed a towbar, oil pan heater, changed the really poor long life bulbs for proper Philips extremevisions and got a set of alloy OEM wheels for summer tires.  Mine is 2016 which is the last year the wagon was made. Ten years ago every european carmaker (apart from GM and Ford) had a supermini wagon but crossovers have taken over and they are offered instead though they do not have that much more boot volume when compared to normal supermini of the same chassis. The new Skoda Fabia that premieres next month will still be made with the wagon chassis thanks to demand for the current model so that's what I'm eyeing when I'm looking for a new car in 6 or so years. So far I've driven 40 000 km in 2,5 years and the car has given no problems in that time. Rosoboronexport fucked around with this message at 22:04 on Apr 16, 2021 |
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Apr 16, 2021 22:00
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I also posted this in the AI stupid question thread but does this look like a damaged/failing MAF to anyone? If the wires or a connection was failing wouldn't it show 0 g/s not a super high reading? e: My preference is to always go OEM with something like a MAF but it's over 3x the cost of the third party ones. Anyone have anything to say about these other brands for MAF? 
VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 07:49 on Apr 19, 2021 |
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Apr 19, 2021 07:43
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Delphi or Hitachi is a safe bet in my book
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Apr 19, 2021 14:14
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CommieGIR posted:Delphi or Hitachi is a safe bet in my book Thanks, the Delphi is on amazon. e: vvv thanks Uthor, you're right the shipping would be crazy. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 14:47 on Apr 19, 2021 |
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Apr 19, 2021 14:19
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I was gonna say that I think I have a spare laying around I could send you, but it seems like you are in Canada and the cost to ship probably isn't worth it.
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Apr 19, 2021 14:32
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Rosoboronexport posted:I guess we can talk about other brands than VW and Audi that are under the same umbrella? I wish smaller engines like the 1.2l and 1.4l TDI were options in the US, that's a nice Skoda.
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Apr 19, 2021 14:35
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I recently got my new Passat Alltrack, to replace my previous Skoda Octavia, and so far I'm pretty happy with it. Even if the Skoda was quite nice it feels a little more premium interior wise and it is noticeably roomier inside and it is a little quicker. We finally got Android Auto here in Sweden and that is pretty damned nice. If I had known we'd get it I would have skipped the navigation. It's a bit of a shame that they moved to touch controls for the climate controls in the new model year though, but at least they are separate from the touch screen.
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Apr 19, 2021 21:42
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I (California resident) smogged my '85 Vanagon with 2.2L Subaru swap for the first time today and it passed, which was great. Now that it's passed, I'm going to take this opportunity say that I was pretty annoyed with how Buslab, who did the swap, handled communication after I got the van back around this time last year. They did a shitload of work on the van, for which I am grateful, but some of it was not great, and one of the biggest issues was that the engine would stall with the AC on -- the AC that they also installed at the same time as the swap. It was apparent the first time I took the car for a drive after getting it back. I started it up, went one block, and the engine died at the stop. It happened about 80% of the time. It's not plausible to me that they wouldn't have seen it unless they never tested the AC while driving the car. Their remote diagnosis (sort of? I only ever talked to their service adviser) was that it was the wiring harness, which they had sourced from elsewhere. They said they were going to replace the harness and pay for the local labor to do it. That seemed like an odd choice but I said sure. My local mechanic did the swap. It did not fix the stalling issue. Buslab also did not pay the mechanic. In the end my mechanic's solution was to just raise the idle enough to make the 4 in 5 stall rate turn into a 1 in 50 stall rate, which I guess was good enough but also very weird, because according to Buslab, turning on the AC should automatically kick up the idle. Anyway, Buslab stopped responding to my inquiries entirely, which was pretty cool. Later I discovered that the GoWesty aux battery kit they installed for me was... well it was technically installed, but things were just kind of hanging out in the battery box and it was pretty sloppy. Anyway, a very expensive CARB-legal engine swap that seems reasonably well done, but if I had to do it again, I'd send it even farther away to smallcar in Washington. I actually wound up talking to their CEO on the phone about the AC stalling issue, which was very informative and kind of incredible considering I hadn't paid them for their time, just for the AC kit (through Buslab) that wound up in the van. 
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Apr 26, 2021 18:05
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rope kid posted:I (California resident) smogged my '85 Vanagon with 2.2L Subaru swap for the first time today and it passed, which was great. Now that it's passed, I'm going to take this opportunity say that I was pretty annoyed with how Buslab, who did the swap, handled communication after I got the van back around this time last year. They did a shitload of work on the van, for which I am grateful, but some of it was not great, and one of the biggest issues was that the engine would stall with the AC on -- the AC that they also installed at the same time as the swap. It was apparent the first time I took the car for a drive after getting it back. I started it up, went one block, and the engine died at the stop. It happened about 80% of the time. It's not plausible to me that they wouldn't have seen it unless they never tested the AC while driving the car. I had a right-hand-drive JDM subaru STI and I can tell you your experience with Buslab is very much in keeping with 80% of any of these small very specific scene shops, unfortunately. Cool van! Do those 2.2L engines not adjust idle based on load?
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Apr 26, 2021 18:15
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I had my first 'Do not like' experience with Audi pre-sense. I was on a road that has a pretty good curve to the left and a car ahead of me was pulling off to the right to make a turn at an area where the shoulder really widens out. At no time was my car in proximity to the other car nor heading towards it. Like, yes if I had decided to also turn right at the speed I was going we would have needed some quick breaking but I was well into veering left by then. My car freaked out, binged and tapped the breaks for like half a second and then let it go like nothing had happened. I get that it was an odd corner case and 'better safe than sorry' but still pretty annoying.
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Apr 26, 2021 18:38
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