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I’m using Rakarth Flesh pretty extensively for a current project and not having any issues with it, interestingly enough. Not sure if maybe that’s because it’s a new-ish pot or I just got lucky.
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Apr 12, 2021 01:33
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Cthulu Carl posted:Cross-posting from the scale modelling thread because... Pretty sure these could be used in a dame, no problem: I'm going to confirm that you are on the right track with your "impressionist" idea. When you're painting a small model, that will be seen from far away, don't use photos as references, use paintings. A realistic technical illustration like in an Osprey book is too detailed, you want to study where another artist made compromises between rendering fidelity - drawing one soldier at a time - and expression of the whole - painting a thousand at a time to show the effect in mass. This is more of an issue at wargaming scales, and 1:3000 certainly is for ships, while at 15-20mm individual soldiers start to blend into the block of troops on the same base. Take a look at the difference in detail between the foreground and background figures in these two paintings,   Napoleonic uniforms are such a riot of little details and tiny splashes of color that knowing what to ignore will save you hours on a small army. Painting a front row with more detail and going quick on the backrankers is an excellent compromise technique. Very little of that applies to heroic 28mm, especially in kill teams, of which I am about to start two.
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Apr 12, 2021 01:57
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You want miniature? I'll give you miniature. Xpost from the historical threadNo. 1 Juicy Boi posted:Definitely lost my mind. I have no idea how to make 2mm look good, but I have to admit I love the effect.
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Apr 12, 2021 02:27
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Jesus gently caress, good job there.
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Apr 12, 2021 02:36
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What is this, a miniature for ants? Oh it is? Well done.
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Apr 12, 2021 02:42
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Painted some tongue-puppies 
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Apr 12, 2021 04:36
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Winklebottom posted:
Isn't that the guy that opened the Ark? 
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Apr 12, 2021 12:01
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TotalHell posted:I’m using Rakarth Flesh pretty extensively for a current project and not having any issues with it, interestingly enough. Not sure if maybe that’s because it’s a new-ish pot or I just got lucky.
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Apr 12, 2021 12:48
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Still a WIP, enjoying a massive BFG resurgence in our community. 
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Apr 12, 2021 13:41
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Red Herring posted:Still a WIP, enjoying a massive BFG resurgence in our community. Goddamn, that is tidy. Are you using oil washes?
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Apr 12, 2021 13:51
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Winklebottom posted:Goddamn, that is tidy. Are you using oil washes? Thanks, just thinned out nuln oil and tidied up with apothecary white. Valejo Dead White is the secret ingredient.
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Apr 12, 2021 14:20
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Completed two additions to my 5 man motley crew Outrider combat squad: a Dark Angels Sargent and a Space Shark. Making that a total of 3 so far alongside the Black Dragon biker.   
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Apr 12, 2021 16:20
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Hey I've got my first army done and I want to move onto basing. What do people recommend for sand?
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Apr 12, 2021 16:29
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StashAugustine posted:Hey I've got my first army done and I want to move onto basing. What do people recommend for sand? I like this technique for creating a fine sand texture https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XL_xRxbxnbE
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Apr 12, 2021 16:33
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StashAugustine posted:Hey I've got my first army done and I want to move onto basing. What do people recommend for sand? fine grit vallejo texture paste, then paint pale sand then drybrush a paler sand https://www.goonhammer.com/how-to-base-everything-beach-bases/
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Apr 12, 2021 16:52
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StashAugustine posted:Hey I've got my first army done and I want to move onto basing. What do people recommend for sand? I use Liquitex ceramic stucco effect medium for all my basing. https://www.liquitex.com/us/products/professional/gessoes-mediums-varnishes/ceramic-stucco/ Has a good graininess without looking like they're walking on a gravel driveway, drybrushes easy, and is pretty adhering so if there's rocks or debris to add, I just set it in the wet medium.
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Apr 12, 2021 16:58
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I don't remember if it was in this thread or the scale modeling one, but I can't find it in either. Somebody had posted a quick tip about the ideal undercoat color for metallic paints. I think it was something like "use black for steel/aluminum paints, brown for gold/copper." Can anybody confirm?
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Apr 12, 2021 17:26
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Furism posted:I don't remember if it was in this thread or the scale modeling one, but I can't find it in either. Somebody had posted a quick tip about the ideal undercoat color for metallic paints. I think it was something like "use black for steel/aluminum paints, brown for gold/copper." Can anybody confirm? I can't source it, but I've heard that repeatedly. Specifically gloss for metallics. Also, I believe Goobertown Hobbies discovered pink works as a good undercoat for yellow)orange?
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Apr 12, 2021 17:28
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Cthulu Carl posted:I can't source it, but I've heard that repeatedly. Specifically gloss for metallics. You mean gloss varnish over the undercoat before applying the metallics? For the pink vs yellow, if you're talking about the Goobertown video I think you are, it's a bit different because it's to apply yellow ink. The pink is great for undershadowing, I painted my whole Ironjawz army using this technique 
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Apr 12, 2021 17:40
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Furism posted:You mean gloss varnish over the undercoat before applying the metallics? Gloss varnish might work, but I've heard it was gloss black under silver. Not sure if the same principle applies to yellow metals, but for those I tend to do a coat of Vallejo Game Color Tinny Tin. It seems to do the trick.
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Apr 12, 2021 17:48
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I just used a pink base coat for some yellow feathers and it came out great
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Apr 12, 2021 17:54
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Iron Crowned posted:I like this technique for creating a fine sand texture This is cool, I think I'm going to try this next large base I do.
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Apr 12, 2021 18:03
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Furism posted:You mean gloss varnish over the undercoat before applying the metallics? Nah just gloss black primer, or gloss black paint if out have it. I recently got some gloss black primer and I kinda like it more than matte black because I can take a picture of it with a light on it and I know where all my highlights will go.
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Apr 12, 2021 18:05
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Red Herring posted:Thanks, just thinned out nuln oil and tidied up with apothecary white. Valejo Dead White is the secret ingredient. A gunpla technique for panel lining applies here. You put down a good layer of gloss coat before you do the washes. The excess wash will come up with a q-tip and maybe a little thinner, much less call for touchup with paint. As a bonus, if you get just the right amount of wash on your brush, capillary action will fill in the line for you. I knock most of the wash off on the side of the bottle and that does the trick. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T16MLd1f1X4
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Apr 12, 2021 18:41
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A good gloss coat given ample time to cure is my key to good recess shades
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Apr 12, 2021 20:39
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Winklebottom posted:The worst part of it is that they recommend 37 different paints for it (though that's a general GW tutorial problem). This is why it took me over a year to even try and start painting. In the end I just asked friends for the minimum amount of paints I needed for a project. Speaking of the minimum amount of Citadel paint, I have a relatively small collection of paints and I was wondering if there's anything I should include. In no particular order I have: Ushabti bone Cadian fleshtone Reikland fleshshade Rhinox hide Leadbelcher Celestra grey Abaddon black Rakarth Flesh Kantor Blue Nighthaunt Gloom Warboss green Mephiston red Retributor armor Incubi Darkness
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Apr 12, 2021 20:50
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Lucinice posted:This is why it took me over a year to even try and start painting. In the end I just asked friends for the minimum amount of paints I needed for a project. What do you want to paint?
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Apr 12, 2021 21:01
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Everyone should try painting with just CMYK (cyan, magenta, yellow, black). You'd be surprised how much creativity comes from a limited palette, and you end up with interesting and fun color combinations you wouldn't normally use. With some minor exceptions these guys were painted almost entirely with acrylic gouache using CMYK (and white of course). It's also a great way to test out new paint brands, just pick up cyan, magenta, yellow, white and black (maybe a metallic too) and you should have a pretty good grasp of the qualities of the paint. I wouldn't necessarily recommend this for entire armies or huge squads, but it's also possible to make your own batches of paint mixes in this way using just CMYK. I recommend giving it a shot on solo models.
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Apr 12, 2021 21:22
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Lucinice posted:This is why it took me over a year to even try and start painting. In the end I just asked friends for the minimum amount of paints I needed for a project. A yellow of some sort would be extremely helpful.
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Apr 12, 2021 21:55
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Lucinice posted:This is why it took me over a year to even try and start painting. In the end I just asked friends for the minimum amount of paints I needed for a project. I'm not totally up on the current GW paint range names but my general advice is buy the paints you think you need for a project. Like if you are painting tyranids you probably need a purple, pink, and a selection of fleshy tones in general, but if you are painting ultramarines the pink and purple wont see that much use, and you'd definitely want a blue. If you are looking to be project agnostic, from what I can see that looks like a decent start (decoding colours, correct me if I'm wrong we seem to have an ivory, a caucasian fleshtone, a brown, a gun metal, grey, black, I'll be honest I dont even know what a rakarth is but I have that paint so call it a beige-brown I guess, a blue, nighthaunt gloom seems to be a special effect paint broadly like hexwraith flame or nikhalath oxide, a green, a red, a gold and a turquoise. Good starting point. You're gonna need a white, I rarely use pure white on a figure myself (or pure black tbh) but its useful to lighten other paints/as a quick undercoat before painting a bright colour. A yellow will probably come in handy. I'd get a royal purple too, for robes and suchlike. You have a brown, I'd get another brown. If you have a figure wearing leather gloves holding a wooden spear its handy to have 2 paints which are different browns. A tan colour is handy too, particularly if you might want some figures to have blonde hair, an orange if you are planning on painting a lot of dwarf slayers or US convicts, but tbh you can probably just mix red and yellow for any small orange things most of the time.. I get more use out of brass than I do out of gold, but then I'm painting a lot of steampunky figures, your mileage may vary. So, barring other factors I'd suggest: A white, a lighter leather brown, a yellow, a royal purple and a tan. That'd give you a pretty varied range for most projects I think, you can pick up other more niche paints as and when you find a need for them. As we're spending your money, I'd chuck in another couple of washes; You have the fleshshade, I'd recommend Nuln Oil for a general purpose black wash, Agrax Earthshade for a dark brown wash and Seraphim Sepia as a sepia wash (particularly if you are going to be painting bone). Other brands do similar washes, you could go with army painter strong tone instead of earthshade for example, but the GW washes are in my experience pretty solid.
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Apr 12, 2021 21:57
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I wish I had started with oils. I paint most models with the same 4 tubes of paint.
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Apr 12, 2021 23:03
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Lucinice posted:This is why it took me over a year to even try and start painting. In the end I just asked friends for the minimum amount of paints I needed for a project. Without a doubt my biggest regret was not starting with Vallejo. I'm sorta locked in on a few armies that I want to keep consistent, but yeah. The above instructional was a bit much. Depending on your army, Agrax Earthshade is probably the best overall wash, far as utility
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Apr 12, 2021 23:09
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Winklebottom posted:What do you want to paint? I have Warhammer Underworlds warbands to paint. I want to get them looking similar to their card art so I need a variety of paints. TheBigAristotle posted:Without a doubt my biggest regret was not starting with Vallejo. I'm sorta locked in on a few armies that I want to keep consistent, but yeah. The above instructional was a bit much.
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Apr 12, 2021 23:18
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Lucinice posted:The reason I'm going Citadel paints is because I know people who use them and I haven't found a reliable place locally to get alternatives. But in your opinion what makes Vallejo the superior option? I've used both extensively and the paints themselves are basically the same. Some paints are better in one line or the other but on the whole both are pretty good. However, GW's flip-top paint cup thing is atrocious while Vallejo uses a far more sensible dropper bottle. For this reason alone most people prefer Vallejo, otherwise there is very little difference.
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Apr 12, 2021 23:31
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There's a reason almost every single paint company uses dropper bottles, it's just a more sensible choice.
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Apr 12, 2021 23:45
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Also Vallejo are cheaper and you get more paint. The range is huge so you can buy any colour you need. Agreed that CYMBK is a good place to start if you want to just mess around and paint a few models. I still go back to it when I'm just loving around mixing paints, but now that I'm batch painting I generally use pre-mixes for consistency and saving time.
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Apr 12, 2021 23:53
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My slightly  opinion is that GW's pots are intentionally bad. They aren't perfectly airtight, and paint will gum up the seal even more with use, so GW paints have a shelf life of a couple of years max before they go bad. Because so many people are entirely locked into GW's ecosystem this means they will sell a lot more paint.
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Apr 12, 2021 23:54
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Luckily contrast paints and washes don't gum up the seal that bad so those are the only GW lines I'll still get
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Apr 13, 2021 00:06
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My painting life goal is to be able to do something at a fraction of quality of David Soper's Plague Marine and he used the same highlight and shadow colour across every shade he used to add cohesiveness to the colour scheme. If he can use one white and one purpley black on top of a single base colour then you don't need to buy 2-3 progressively lighter/darker shades of your base colours to get the job done. Just patience and practice with blending and mixing. Yeah yeah he's a multiple Golden Daemon winner but don't feel like not having 35 paints for one model is holding you back.
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Apr 13, 2021 00:33
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Geisladisk posted:My slightly This makes sense, I have about 20 of the original type container washes and paints from the mid-90s that I still use. They lasted forever. I don't have a single one of the screw-off tops that came after.
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Apr 13, 2021 01:00
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