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Hadlock posted:Is that how everyone is doing the time lapse where the print head is in the exact same spot in every frame Ya you can do a few different things with it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3wxOGah04fk https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5g4YcKF2xGo Ignore my lovely music.
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Apr 12, 2021 18:35
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Are there any worries about replacing stock fans on an extruder block etc. with quieter ones like Noctuas (aside from the price)? Or, are there other ways to reduce fan whine when 3d printing so it's mostly just stepper motor noise instead?
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Apr 12, 2021 19:01
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aldantefax posted:Are there any worries about replacing stock fans on an extruder block etc. with quieter ones like Noctuas (aside from the price)? Or, are there other ways to reduce fan whine when 3d printing so it's mostly just stepper motor noise instead? The main thing to make sure of is that the CFM isn't lower than the stock fan. Lower airflow = heat creep = clogs.
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Apr 12, 2021 19:11
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Right..but with the BLtouch I don't have to do anything. Press print and off you go. Yeah I hear you, I already use the BLTouch on all my printers. Klipper's bed screw leveling and a probe, it's a luxury I definitely miss when I use a printer without it. I'm thinking primarily about nozzle swaps, and at least one of my machines does change the touch's offset with heatsoak. Not enough to fail a first layer, but it does change the finish. I consider if the thing I actually care about is also my measurement device, I've reduced the problem space. I'm well aware of the piezo sensors, but I've found they can be hard to fit into certain hotend designs. And I get a free input shaper too.
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Apr 12, 2021 22:15
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snail posted:
I wait until bed and nozzle are at temperature before probing.
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Apr 12, 2021 22:19
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aldantefax posted:Are there any worries about replacing stock fans on an extruder block etc. with quieter ones like Noctuas (aside from the price)? Or, are there other ways to reduce fan whine when 3d printing so it's mostly just stepper motor noise instead? You should keep in mind voltages. Most computer fans, such as all of the noctua 40mm fans I can find, are 12V. The Ender 3 and many other printers are 24V. It looks like the Flashforge Creator Pro which you have is also 24V. You'll need a way to drop the voltage to run 12V fans like noctuas or pick a different model of 24V fans. This could be complicated if your printer is set up to vary the voltage to the fans to speed them up or down since it will probably use PWM for it, and running that through a buck converter might produce some anomalous results. I haven't tried it myself although I do run some 12V fans in my Ender 3, I just run them as chassis fans to keep the 2208 stepper drivers cool on the replacement mainboard so they're both running off of one buck converter. Maybe someone with more electronics experience than myself would know if there's a way to go there or if there's a better choice to drop voltage (two 12v fans in series might make sense but then where would the second one go).
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Apr 12, 2021 22:38
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ImplicitAssembler posted:I wait until bed and nozzle are at temperature before probing. I don't know why I'm not doing this. But I will from now on. Got an Ender 3 pro a long time ago, updated the firmware on the old melzi board with a hacked up Marlin I compiled based off of several youtube channels recommendations. Just got a 4.2.7 silent board to install, and now I either need to use one of the creality made firmwares, use something someone else made, or go back in and redo Marlin without having to trim off a ton of stuff so it fit into memory of the melzi board. Already have a BL Touch, so got to figure that into whatever firmware I pick. Are there any firmwares anyone would recommend? Klipper is the topic du jour but from what I gather thats got to be put onto a network attached RasPi and while I have a spare one laying around, I think its out of scope for the amount of time I can dedicate to updating my printer. That amount of time being: how long until I get bored of the project or it becomes too much like work and therefore sucking all the joy out of it. I set this thing up a few years ago and haven't needed to touch it. Print quality is where I want/need it, but now I also need it silent so I can keep printing while I'm "at work" but not going deaf from the drivers bleeping and blooping 3 feet from my head for hours a day.
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Apr 12, 2021 23:07
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The pi+octoprint+klipper install and setup (plus PID tuning) was about half to 3/4 of Saturday morning. That's including loving around with "what plugins seem cool?" toplitzin fucked around with this message at 23:24 on Apr 12, 2021 |
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Apr 12, 2021 23:21
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Syves posted:Are there any firmwares anyone would recommend? The TH3D Unified firmware is about as solid as it gets without rolling your own Marlin. I'm not sure about configuring it with a BLTouch specifically, but they do have a firmware version for that board. https://support.th3dstudio.com/hc/downloads/unified-2-firmware/creality/creality-ender-3-3-pro-ender-5-5-pro-firmware-v4-2-x-board/
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Apr 12, 2021 23:49
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I'm putting klipper on the wish list for sure later, once I know I'll have another weekend or slow work day or something. Acid Reflux posted:The TH3D Unified firmware is about as solid as it gets without rolling your own Marlin. I'm not sure about configuring it with a BLTouch specifically, but they do have a firmware version for that board. Thanks, I'll check it out! At least a place to start!
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Apr 13, 2021 00:13
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I feel like I got extremely lucky. Ran a print on my photon mono without tightening down the build plate and I only realized when I went to remove the print. Not only did the vat and FEP escape unharmed, but the print still came out flawless!
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Apr 13, 2021 01:22
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Someone talk me out of buying a cheap 5 year old lulzbot. I've always wanted one and have some extra room for another printer.
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Apr 13, 2021 02:46
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Syves posted:
Reprap firmware. Lots of nice features, excellent web interface. It's under active development. Mostly confined to the duet boards, so you probably won't actually be able to run it. There are a few ports to other boards. Rexxed posted:You should keep in mind voltages. Most computer fans, such as all of the noctua 40mm fans I can find, are 12V. The Ender 3 and many other printers are 24V. It looks like the Flashforge Creator Pro which you have is also 24V. You'll need a way to drop the voltage to run 12V fans like noctuas or pick a different model of 24V fans. This could be complicated if your printer is set up to vary the voltage to the fans to speed them up or down since it will probably use PWM for it, and running that through a buck converter might produce some anomalous results. I haven't tried it myself although I do run some 12V fans in my Ender 3, I just run them as chassis fans to keep the 2208 stepper drivers cool on the replacement mainboard so they're both running off of one buck converter. Maybe someone with more electronics experience than myself would know if there's a way to go there or if there's a better choice to drop voltage (two 12v fans in series might make sense but then where would the second one go). We had someone here running fans on a buck converter a while ago. It worked, but it basically disabled speed control. The fans after the buck converter just saw a constant 12v. There were also some fans on the same rail connected in parallel with the buck converter. They ended up being powered by the input capacitors of the converter, and didn't really throttle either.
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Apr 13, 2021 02:54
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Shamino posted:Someone talk me out of buying a cheap 5 year old lulzbot. I've always wanted one and have some extra room for another printer. It almost certainly runs 3mm filament, so you'd probably be stuck buying filament specifically for it, or doing a conversion. E: If you always wanted one, sure. The filament is the only thing I can really think of as an issue. I got an old ultimaker for much the same reason, and it also has 3mm filament. Aurium fucked around with this message at 03:21 on Apr 13, 2021 |
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Apr 13, 2021 02:56
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Shamino posted:Someone talk me out of buying a cheap 5 year old lulzbot. I've always wanted one and have some extra room for another printer. 5 years ago literally every printer outside of them, Makergear and Ultimaker were garbage at their price points. It's probably approaching the electronics lifespan though, or in need of a "replace all the bearings and belts" overhaul if it saw regular use.
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Apr 13, 2021 03:06
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Aurium posted:We had someone here running fans on a buck converter a while ago. It worked, but it basically disabled speed control. The fans after the buck converter just saw a constant 12v. There were also some fans on the same rail connected in parallel with the buck converter. They ended up being powered by the input capacitors of the converter, and didn't really throttle either. Yeah I kind of figured you could probably just set them to either 0 or 100% and use a buck converter to let them go full blast when cooling fans are set to on, or even lower the output voltage to where you want (I think mine are around 10V since they're just chassis). Noctuas are pretty quiet for 40mm fans but no 40mms are silent unless you slow them down to ridiculousness. I'm also fond of the Scythe Kaze fans which aren't quite as nice but are also a lot quieter than cheapo 40mm fans. I've used some of these which cost a little more due to the screen: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Buck-Step-down-LM2596-Power-Converter-Module-DC-4-0-40-to-1-3-37V-LED-Voltmeter/222514124788 and some of these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1x-10x-LM2596S-DC-DC-3A-Buck-Adjustable-Step-down-Power-Supply-Converter-Module/223524573272 I'm sure they're junky but they do what's on the label and are fine for stuff like fan throttling where I don't need perfect power.
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Apr 13, 2021 03:23
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ImplicitAssembler posted:I wait until bed and nozzle are at temperature before probing. It's not the bed that changes shape because of heat soak, it's the carriage the probe is attached to. Yeah, dumb design on this particular printer and I'm retiring it soon, but it has influenced my thinking all the same along with having worked on half million dollar CNC machines. They do it better, if I can do it similar for the same reasons on smaller hardware for a price effective way, why not? I have multiple printers, and access to plenty more, I can experiment with different methods on a frankenprinter. The other thing is doing the probe post heating doesn't answer for a changed tool head. Most nozzles are close enough that it's not a problem, but I do have some nozzles better suited to more exotic filaments, and they are of different dimensions. A prior conversation I had here about the differences in the Micro Swiss nozzles, and why one printer does ABS fine and the other does not. I experimented, and yeah, the difference was the base material of the nozzle. Also turns out that they are of different dimensions, enough to mess up my first layer with it coming unstuck later in the print. Granted, many people never deal with anything other than PLA with the same nozzle, but I enjoy doing weird things on a printer.
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Apr 13, 2021 03:29
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Shamino posted:Someone talk me out of buying a cheap 5 year old lulzbot. I've always wanted one and have some extra room for another printer. I’ve got a Taz 5 with the original Rambo board. I’ve added a wham bam plate, titan aero and a bltouch, running on Marlin 2.0. It’s a pain in the rear end to level the bed, but for no discernible reason I really like it. It is huge and a bit slow, which is why it’s been busy printing Voron parts the past week, but the Taz is just so chunky and neat. Also I am now enamored with the Lulzbot green.
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Apr 13, 2021 04:08
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snail posted:
I print ABS, PLA, PETG, TPU,Greentec, nylon and various PETG/Nylon-CF combos with the same nozzle. Whats the issue again?
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Apr 13, 2021 04:16
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Aurium posted:We had someone here running fans on a buck converter a while ago. It worked, but it basically disabled speed control. The fans after the buck converter just saw a constant 12v. There were also some fans on the same rail connected in parallel with the buck converter. They ended up being powered by the input capacitors of the converter, and didn't really throttle either. You wired it up wrong, you're not the first. Most of these boards control the switch to ground.... Stop using the positive from the board, and ground the fan through the board, and your PWM will work normally.
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Apr 13, 2021 04:52
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Nerobro posted:You wired it up wrong, you're not the first. Most of these boards control the switch to ground.... Stop using the positive from the board, and ground the fan through the board, and your PWM will work normally. We meaning this thread. On the other hand, yeah. That'd work perfectly. nice.
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Apr 13, 2021 07:05
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You're right.. I seem to vaguely remember that discussion. sorry for pointing it at you instead of everyone.
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Apr 13, 2021 15:20
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it's a super minor thing, but anyone know what causes this first layer issue on my prusa? there's a few rough spots on the first layer in varying areas. the second layer fixes em no issue, but i thought i'd ask. i've cleaned the pei with alcohol wipes, etc, and adhesion is great. so unless this is a very easy fix i'm just going to live with it
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Apr 13, 2021 18:32
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Deviant posted:it's a super minor thing, but anyone know what causes this first layer issue on my prusa? It’s hard for me to tell on my phone but it might be too low? Use the live z adjust and watch it as it lays down a first layer.
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Apr 13, 2021 18:41
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Doctor Zero posted:It’s hard for me to tell on my phone but it might be too low? Use the live z adjust and watch it as it lays down a first layer. it's only in very certain spots, is why i didn't suspect that. i could see it being a skoosh low though.
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Apr 13, 2021 18:43
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Yeah I had the same thing. I guess the bed isn’t 100% flat and in that area it gets noticeable. For me, adjusting the z didn’t ruin the rest of the first layer so fingers crossed for you. I got mine to the point where the bottom of my prints are baby smooth. Quite satisfying to get it dialed in.
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Apr 13, 2021 18:46
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Doctor Zero posted:Yeah I had the same thing. I guess the bed isn’t 100% flat and in that area it gets noticeable. For me, adjusting the z didn’t ruin the rest of the first layer so fingers crossed for you. i'll screw with it, but this is about what i suspected. i figured something wasn't perfectly flat in those spots.
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Apr 13, 2021 18:51
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When the nozzle is too close to the bed on the first layer, it plows through the plastic and makes little furrows that feel rough and look just like a plowed field up close. When the nozzle is too far from the bed on the first layer, it doesn't squish properly and the traces look like little threads instead of flattened ribbons, and there's often a gap between them and they peel right off. Adjust until neither of those things are happening. 
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Apr 13, 2021 20:07
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As everyone above has said, you may be able to adjust things so it's dead flat, but you may not. On my ender 3 the plate itself isn't perfectly flat, so if I print a large rectangle there will be a spot or two maybe the size of a quarter (very roughly speaking) where I end up a tiny bit too low and get some light furrows. It pretty much never matters, because as soon as the print switches to infill it's a non-issue. On those rare occasions where I am printing something that's only a few layers thick, if it's big enough I guess I could see it being an issue where I would need to reposition it on the platform, but in several years of printing it's never been a problem. So basically what I'm saying is if your first layer is nice and smooth almost everywhere, you're probably fine.
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Apr 13, 2021 20:25
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Very minor imperfections in your bed level will become a lot more pronounced if your nozzle is too close. Anytime I've had random rough spots at specific points on the bed, I've always been able to solve it by backing the z-offset off by just a teeny tiny bit. You can have your nozzle too close to the bed even if 90% of your first layer looks flawless.
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Apr 13, 2021 20:32
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Doctor Zero posted:Yeah I had the same thing. I guess the bed isn’t 100% flat and in that area it gets noticeable. For me, adjusting the z didn’t ruin the rest of the first layer so fingers crossed for you. I had this on the Prusa too, it gets more noticeable if your Z is too low. I don’t think I’ve got my Z dialed in correct yet because I still get some wonkiness on the bottoms, but keep playing with Z until you get there. I haven’t actually adjusted the bed leveling, but this article and especially the test print attached is really helpful for trying to tweak the settings until the first layer looks nice: https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/bed-level-correction_2267/ The tiny square you print on the included first layer cal is done so fast it’s not easy to keep tweaking, so I liked to use the big 3x3 print and tweak as it goes.
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Apr 13, 2021 21:06
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Paradoxish posted:Very minor imperfections in your bed level will become a lot more pronounced if your nozzle is too close. Anytime I've had random rough spots at specific points on the bed, I've always been able to solve it by backing the z-offset off by just a teeny tiny bit. You can have your nozzle too close to the bed even if 90% of your first layer looks flawless. Agreed, but you can also have a bed that just has a low spot.
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Apr 13, 2021 21:08
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okay, cool, i'll mess with it between prints. followup question: What is the least finicky color of filament, generally? I'm working on some parts that are going to get a lot of post processing and paint, like props, so color doesn't matter. White?
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Apr 13, 2021 21:47
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Deviant posted:okay, cool, i'll mess with it between prints. Not quite what you are asking, but ABS is way easier to post process (sand, cut, etc). So maybe consider that instead?
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Apr 13, 2021 21:54
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Deviant posted:okay, cool, i'll mess with it between prints. White PLA is actually notoriously harder to print from what I've seen online. I typically use grey for stuff I'm going to paint, or whatever is already loaded in the machine if I have enough of it that I don't need that color for something else.
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Apr 13, 2021 21:59
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Deviant posted:followup question: What is the least finicky color of filament, generally? I'm working on some parts that are going to get a lot of post processing and paint, like props, so color doesn't matter. "Natural." The plastic that's the closest to the pure polymer, no dyes or pigments or fillers or opacifiers, will print best. So for PLA that's the slightly straw-colored translucent stuff, for ABS milky white. I find that white PLA prints the worst of all. I assume this is because of the large load of titanium dioxide required to make it opaque. PLA sands fairly poorly. ABS is, as noted, probably the nicest material to sand and finish. It shapes quickly and will take a good polish. PETG is a nice compromise if you have trouble with ABS.
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Apr 13, 2021 22:23
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PETG takes really poorly to paint and glue though, right?
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Apr 13, 2021 22:32
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As others have said: avoid white PLA, natural is best due to the absence of dyes, but otherwise if I'm making something that I'm just going to fill and sand and finish anyway I just grab what's on sale and/or available at Microcenter that isn't white. Last week I ended up with a spool each of blue and purple. The transition when one spool ended and the next began turned out kinda pretty 
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Apr 13, 2021 22:38
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To the guy with random first layer artifacts on the Prusa: look under the steel sheet for scraps; if you’ve been printing white or black use a flashlight. Check the underside of the PEI for dents and use those as indicators where to spot the garbage you left down there. Finally, once you’ve confirmed the crap is gone, do a fresh calibrate Z then first layer cal doing continue, do not adjust, just inspect the output for anomalies. If you nylock mod your prusa I will hate you forever.
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Apr 13, 2021 22:39
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So I think I wanna sell my Epax X1 to put some money away for one of the 4k mono/larger build plate size resin printers, something like the Elegoo Saturn or Anycubic Photon Mono. Anyone interested in a very lightly used X1? 
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Apr 13, 2021 23:14
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