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chrisgt posted:LOL he was probably wondering if the ATM was gonna give him enough money for whatever poo poo you got into. I was only doing 80 in a 55, like everyone else  Oh well, wish I'd thought to bug you about it, there were a bunch of milling machines and a few lathes up but they were all either heavier than God so only a few pros bid, or light (sub 2 tons) and went into the 4 figures bid range quickly. Some lucky bastard got a leadwell mvc550 for like 65 dollars, but showed up with an f800 rollback and a team to load it. All told it cost me an hour. Honestly probably for the best since I was stranded 2 blocks west of o'reilly's instead of up north of the ANG base, where I would have found my starter dangling if I hadn't been pulled over. Weird how that happens.
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Mar 21, 2021 20:21
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You weren't the only one having fun in the last few days. Been building a CJ width narrowed 60 with an Ox locker in it. Set up the gears over the weekend, not horrible for a novice i'd think:
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Mar 23, 2021 02:48
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Nice! Looks good to me, how's the pattern on the other side? I still need to build my front axle and gear both axles, crap. Running out of time.
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Mar 23, 2021 06:38
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kastein posted:Nice! Looks good to me, how's the pattern on the other side? Pattern's almost the same, came out pretty good and i've got plenty (probably a bit too much) carrier pre-load. had to tap it in with a dead blow evenly. Plumbing the brake lines in the next day or two, then putting it under the jeep hopefully this weekend.
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Mar 23, 2021 19:05
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We got an old HF trailer from my parents for the move because my mom wanted the rusty eyesore they never use out of the driveway and it will make the move much easier. Only issue, it's a trailer so it exists in the natural state of "needs wiring and bearings". First, put it in service position and run a whole new harness   My dad had already put good LED lights on it, but the wiring was about "3 emergency parking lot repairs 200 miles from home" into neglect, and whoever did one of the repairs forgot it's a folding trailer so it got pinched badly in 2 places, and everyone involved trusted trailer lighting manufacturers and used the included scotchlocks and did roadside repairs with wirenuts, so I ripped it all off and used marine grade butt splices.     And made it so it won't get pinched again  Then I started looking for headlight upgrades for the Honcho because I can't see poo poo. Turns out factory JK headlights suck too but not as bad, and are free because everyone upgrades. Or in my case I gave the guy a couple cases of beer. Minor trimming to headlight bucket needed to clear the reflector.  I got my H13 connectors from mouser yesterday but the seal inserts I forgot to bring home from the hangar last time so it'll wait till I get those. Also dragged my front 70 out into the limelight and started cutting junk off and cleaning and measuring since it's time to put the knuckles on and maybe gear it. The pinion is exactly parallel to the leaf perch, this may be a stupid plan based on that. 
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Apr 7, 2021 17:03
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Headlights are in! Bet most people wouldn't even notice they aren't factory, which is what I was aiming for. And they're much better than stock, which is both nice, and depressing, because the reason I got them for 2 cases of beer is that they kind of suck and most JK owners seem to upgrade them in the dealership parking lot.  At some point I really need to put together the master list of what make-model-year combos have donated parts to this pile because I'm sure it's well past Johnny Cash and his car at this point.
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Apr 10, 2021 05:44
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kastein posted:Headlights are in! Bet most people wouldn't even notice they aren't factory, which is what I was aiming for. gently caress me those look good.
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Apr 10, 2021 06:31
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I’ve only ever owned a single pickup (88’ S10 with a 5-speed, indestructible 2.5L, a biblical amount of rust, no AC, no PS, and no power brakes [WTF 80s GM?]) and I loath that breed of automobile. That said, I loving love this Honcho. The Bionic Commando crane attachment just adds to that affection. Thanks for this thread, man. As previously mentioned, it helps me keep pushing ahead with my interminable, Sisyphean projects. Your thread too, Elviscat.
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Apr 10, 2021 13:33
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kastein posted:Headlights are in! Bet most people wouldn't even notice they aren't factory, which is what I was aiming for. Those look so good and the pattern is great. Which yeah, depressing. 
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Apr 10, 2021 18:38
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Well a long post will probably be coming soon but: I cut all the parts for the new front bumper for the Honcho to size and brought them home to weld it up on the truck last night. I also fixed my tow dolly and dragged it home for the first time in years. Then literally an hour later my brother texts and says he's on his way on a rollback with the ranger because it stopped running. We go check it out in the morning and...   At least it's not interference, but Ford buried this motherfucker ten miles deep in bullshit and I can already tell it's going to be a total shitshow.
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Apr 12, 2021 17:49
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kastein posted:Headlights are in! Bet most people wouldn't even notice they aren't factory, which is what I was aiming for. Heh, headlights.... aiming. I wonder if I could make those fit in my '79 RX-7? Should, since the stock lights are 7" round, just like your Honcho. Might make more since to upgrade to LED replacements, though. Lots of those available, because CJ/YJ Jeep guys, though not cheap.
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Apr 12, 2021 23:24
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kastein posted:At least it's not interference, but Ford buried this motherfucker ten miles deep in bullshit and I can already tell it's going to be a total shitshow. My favorite part was how they shoved a composite pipe into the water pump and ran that through the alternator bracket. It's a loving joy.
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Apr 12, 2021 23:29
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kastein posted:Well a long post will probably be coming soon but: Oh man, look at those 8 spark plugs for the mighty V8 in that truck. By all rights the transverse engines in the Ranger should have miles of space around them, bit it's like Ford's engines set out to fill every available cc of under hood room with the worst, bulkiest hose and pipe routing possible.
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Apr 13, 2021 01:56
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RX headlights - I'm almost certain you could, just double check the lens dome isn't too big on the JK lights because they're much... Rounder than the sealed beams. Water pump fuckery? God damnit don't tell me this now, we just got back from the parts store with a water pump at 9 before wrenching for another few hours because guess what it's pissing from the weep hole and the bearing sounds bad. I'm going to hate this aren't I? Yes, I have no drat idea how the hell they make such a dinky engine take so much room. I'm constantly in awe of how overcomplicated but STUPID it is. It's like BMW engineers but with certain political flags and cowboy hats set out to make the most obtuse bullshit possible. Crank position sensor is actually two sensors in one package reading TWO DIFFERENT RELUCTOR RINGS ON THE BACK OF THE CRANK PULLEY HUB. And it mounts using a special aluminum bracket that's bolted to the block with two bolts and located by a loving dowel pin that was stuck in the block because it's like, 0.01mm precision, but then at the other end they mount the sensor to it with m4x0.7 bolts through 5-6mm holes so it's just flapping in the breeze and I've got no idea how we're supposed to align it. Getting the bolts out at all was a severe pucker moment because as usual they're through drilled holes in cheesy cast (why the gently caress does Ford do this for no reason?) And the backs are corroded and one of those microscopic bolts drat near broke off on me, but instead just chowdered the bracket threads on the way out. You know how Jeep handles that? One bolt and a piece of literal card stock that's taped to the nose of the sensor. You stick it in the hole in the bellhousing and the magnet holds it against the flexplate at the right airgap distance because of the paper. Then you bolt it down and start the engine and the flywheel rips the paper off for you. Some models use two shoulder bolts. You bolt them in and you're done. We got the whole thing torn down, everything apart, and timing belt on already. Called it quits for the night when my headlamp died just as we were unchowdering the CPS sensor mounting threads.
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Apr 13, 2021 05:03
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I mean, I do have explicit memories of using 4' of ratchet extensions to reach the CPS bolts on a Renix WJ. Your post made me check mine, the 2.3 is a timing chain, and seemingly a massive improvement over the mighty, mighty 2.5 in general, and half the spark plugs.
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Apr 13, 2021 06:09
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RENIX was only used on XJs and MJs, WJ was all JTEC and NGC. Same rough design for CPS location, though. The extension thing is mildly annoying but at least you don't have to remove: The fan Fan shroud Serpentine belt Crank pulley Timing cover Crank pulley hub All just to get to the CPS. Mind you, I still have no idea how to get to the connector for it because I don't care, the cable disappears between the block and back half of the timing cover and I'm not following it. I can swap an XJ CPS in 8 minutes or less, by way of comparison. e: I think they went from 2.3 Lima to 2.5 and back to a new 2.3 then because this (94 4cyl 5 forward gear* RWD) is a 2.3. *I refuse to call it a 5 speed. None of the gears are in any way related to speed. This thing does not know what speed is. kastein fucked around with this message at 06:57 on Apr 13, 2021 |
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Apr 13, 2021 06:54
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It looks like '98 they changed to the 2.5L, which I think was the same engine as the 2.3 but larger, and in 2001 they had both the 2.5 and unrelated new 2.3 with a measly 1 spark plug per cylinder and timing chain. Which is a lot of development for the only longitudinal I4 in their inventory (afaik).
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Apr 13, 2021 07:29
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I'm constantly in awe of Ford's need to change everything every year or three, yeah. It runs again. We ended up doing the timing belt, tensioner, serp belt, and water pump. The power steering pump, AC recharge, and a few other things are due... And it's getting new front brakes in an hour or so. He says it's significantly faster than it was before, so I'm guessing the timing had jumped a tooth or two who knows how long ago, probably before he bought it, and it's been limping along like that ever since. The water pump wasn't bad. The stupid loving thing being shoved up the timing belt covers rear end in a top hat made scraping the old gasket off a pain in the rear end but other than that it was pretty pain free. One heater hose was annoying, but came off after a few minutes without having to remove the alt bracket. Honestly the worst part was the fifth bolt holding the PS+AC mounting bracket on. It's in the ninth circle of hell in between the block and the steering box and was nearly completely inaccessible. The bracket has 4 other bolts. Why the gently caress did it need five? kastein fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Apr 13, 2021 |
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Apr 13, 2021 22:38
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MrsYenko came to our relationship with a ‘95 4cyl 5spd YJ that I’ve mostly ignored. It’s got half doors, a bikini top, 31s, stock gears, and it’s just a slug overall. The electrical system was also not at all improved by parking it in a tropical climate within a half mile of the ocean for a decade. I don’t have a project car currently, and the 2.5 is starting to make some unpleasant top-end noises. Am I dumb for considering an L33/4L60 and axle swap on this thing? I’ve never wanted to wrench on a Jeep before; Im used to low, fast things. Not tall, slow things. I don’t know what to do with these feelings.
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Apr 13, 2021 22:50
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Embrace them. Make it a tall fast thing?
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Apr 14, 2021 00:00
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If you do that, budget for a rear axle swap too because if it's not a Dana 44, it's the 35 that will explode with a stock 4.0 in front of it. 8.8 and rear 60 are both fine depending on what you plan on putting in the front to pair them with. Edit: front brakes and rear shocks are now done, time to pass out.
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Apr 14, 2021 07:32
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kastein posted:If you do that, budget for a rear axle swap too because if it's not a Dana 44, it's the 35 that will explode with a stock 4.0 in front of it. 8.8 and rear 60 are both fine depending on what you plan on putting in the front to pair them with. Oh ya, it’s a 30 and a 35, they’re loving trash. Gonna put my ear to the ground for parts, and see what I can dig up. From what im piecing together, the NV231 should be good enough at least to start with, but it’s the only part of the entire driveline I’m thinking can stay.
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Apr 14, 2021 19:06
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MrYenko posted:Oh ya, it’s a 30 and a 35, they’re loving trash. Gonna put my ear to the ground for parts, and see what I can dig up. From what im piecing together, the NV231 should be good enough at least to start with, but it’s the only part of the entire driveline I’m thinking can stay. So the good parts are the interior, body, frame, transfer case, and springs?
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Apr 14, 2021 19:20
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231s are perfectly fine with a V8 in front of them. The only times I've seen them swapped out is if either someone already has a complete engine-to-transfer-case GM pullout they want to run, or they're going all in on an Atlas. Or some people will hybridize a GM and a Jeep transfer case to keep whatever SYE they already have and adapt a GM transmission to it. If/when I ever swap my TJ, I'll be keeping the NV3550 as well so all I'm focused on is the engine-to-transmission mating.
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Apr 14, 2021 19:46
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kastein posted:If you do that, budget for a rear axle swap too because if it's not a Dana 44, it's the 35 that will explode with a stock 4.0 in front of it. 8.8 and rear 60 are both fine depending on what you plan on putting in the front to pair them with. My dad and I did a hella cheap junkyard swap for my cousin's 2.5/ax5 YJ they bought for wayyy too much after it spun a rod bearing two months after they got it. Took the best parts of three 302s (one from an F150, one from a crown vic, and one from a fox body) and made one with a 4 barrel, and then stuck a T18 we had lying around behind it with a novak adapter to the 231. It has had 33s on it with the stock open D35/30 for 25k and has somehow never broken anything, but he also doesn't wheel it at all. The best part was the AX5 was completely full of water. Like no gear oil left, just water. Oh and it had the typical YJ frame rust, rear leaf mounts were one bump away from the entire rear end disconnecting itself. The frame patches are pretty decent and easy to put on though!
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Apr 14, 2021 19:49
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StormDrain posted:So the good parts are the interior, body, frame, transfer case, and springs? rifles posted:Oh and it had the typical YJ frame rust, rear leaf mounts were one bump away from the entire rear end disconnecting itself. The frame patches are pretty decent and easy to put on though! This is the reason I’m willing to sink a touch of money into it. MrsYenko is the second owner, and it was bought new in Texas, spent two years there, and then moved to Florida. The frame and suspension is rust-free, pretty much mint. It just has a touch of body corrosion around like, the seat attach points and such. Florida rust is opposite to the rest of the country, it attacks from the top down.
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Apr 14, 2021 20:08
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MrYenko posted:This is the reason I’m willing to sink a touch of money into it. MrsYenko is the second owner, and it was bought new in Texas, spent two years there, and then moved to Florida. The frame and suspension is rust-free, pretty much mint. It just has a touch of body corrosion around like, the seat attach points and such. Florida rust is opposite to the rest of the country, it attacks from the top down. Nothing wrong with that! Should be a fun project. Just wanted to rag on you for swapping out 9/10 of the mechanicals.
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Apr 14, 2021 21:14
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Yeah, 231 is fine, run it. Worst case, it's the same 6 bolt almost round pattern as the 241 and many other cases. You can put a bigger one on if you need to. GM put the 241 and related cases behind factory 6.0s for years and years. I'm running one, because I found a way to build a custom Chevy-Chevy-Dodge hybrid one that only needed a clocking ring to match my trans and cost less than just a 241 SYE kit. The sane way is to run a 231 with an SYE or a 241 with an SYE, either way you'll have under 700 into the tcase, with the 231 it can be under 300 if you play your cards right. 30 up front is semi ok. Trash, yes, but it's the high pinion one and it'll hold up decently to 33s or so with a cheap set of alloys, just don't do any grudge match poo poo with it in 4x4 and you won't blow it up. You can pair it with an 8.8 easily enough and a cheap alloy set and limited slip or full case locker will make that handle any LS shenanigans you want in high range, Matt Happel put down 1k through one with stickies IIRC. Low range you might hurt the shafts. OR you can run a narrowed 60 or cab and chassis 14 bolt with single rear wheel hubs on it, grab an FSJ front 44 and put 8 lug outers on it to match, or go 60/70/14bolt front and rear depending on how much custom axle fab and/or money you want to burn. kastein fucked around with this message at 22:12 on Apr 14, 2021 |
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Apr 14, 2021 22:09
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 With the other disaster happening so soon after it I forgot that I almost got stranded myself on Saturday night. The ignition switch on the Comanche finally failed because relays are a gently caress and we don't believe in those so just run tens of amps straight through an ignition switch that bases its contact closing speed on operator frustration. That will be great. I showed up to help Jack unload some stuff he had bought, but got there after it was already done. So naturally that meant it was time to work on other projects. Like my loving ignition switch choosing that night to fail, and having to fix it or walk home because AAA doesn't carry passengers during the great plague of 2019-2022.  Thanks for melting the plug too   Contacts look real great (this is after cleaning them up)  Slider bars and springs likewise, disregard the smashed to poo poo one that's been bodged back to useable condition  I put it all back together with the hosed slider and spring moved to a position that I know only feeds current to the starter relay coil so that it would last long enough for the new one to arrive from Amazon, which it did today. Also cut the bumper beam for the Honcho's new front bumper to length and cut the two mounting plates with recovery points from some 3/4 hotroll I picked up a few months ago for this project. Hopefully I'll be welding that Sunday, we'll see. The main beam is 7x4 3/8 wall (chosen instead of 2x6 1/4 simply because it was in the drop stack of my steel supplier in 2014, and because a standard 10x4.5 pattern winch will fit inside it neatly if I cut the back open)  Anyways, ranger pictures: Fuckthisproject.jpeg  That was the low point. We had just removed everything that could really cause a problem aside from the water pump, and nothing had truly gone wrong. The next morning the timing belt went on and we test fired it. Much quieter and I'm pretty sure no one had adjusted the manual timing belt tensioner (you loosen the pivot bolt, then the clamp bolt, let it tension and then tighten both again) because it's inaccessible until you get 2 hours into removing bullshit just to spend 30 seconds adjusting a tensioner that any idiot would have made automatic, then another 2 hours putting it all back in. Fuckin' ford... Anyways, the test fire was successful and it didn't sound like it ate any bearings from losing oil pressure (timing belt driven oil pump, manual transmission, high stress moment, weren't sure if it spun all the way to the breakdown lane without oil...) So it was time to solve some water pump problems with violence.  Then it all went back together nicely and I already posted the rest. Also some parts just arrived for my GM class 2 serial to Jeep CCD + FSJ resistive gauge driver project as well as the front 70 project so hopefully I'll actually get one of those done soon. I'm doing the exhaust on the blue Comanche Saturday as well because the bullshit Walker aluminized system I put on it in 2015 (which has under 20k miles on it...) Has turned into a pile of rust flakes and then fallen off the vehicle on the road, so it's extremely loud right now.
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Apr 16, 2021 04:11
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Any reason there’s a J79 in a field?
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Apr 16, 2021 05:49
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That's what I wanted to know. Seriously though he bought it for a project and after going over it we're thinking he's going to part it out, sell it to a local group that flies an F4 in airshows and stuff for parts, or trade it for an already functioning but smaller engine. 40gpm at idle and 19000lbf at 100% is, uhh, just a bit bigger than he has any use for.
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Apr 16, 2021 06:08
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kastein posted:That's what I wanted to know. I am contractually obligated to ask what project he was planning on using a J79 for. Is he building a jet dragster?
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Apr 16, 2021 19:35
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That's what the seller wanted to build with it several years ago. Jack? I have no idea. I'm not even sure he knows. It showed up in one of his jet engine FB groups with the seller going "what kind of jet engine is this? What's it worth?" And he paid under a dollar a pound for it. It looks like prices vary WILDLY from high 4 figures to over half a million depending on condition and paperwork included, but I don't think he can probably lose money on it as it sits.
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Apr 16, 2021 20:06
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kastein posted:I'm doing the exhaust on the blue Comanche Saturday as well because the bullshit Walker aluminized system I put on it in 2015 (which has under 20k miles on it...) Has turned into a pile of rust flakes and then fallen off the vehicle on the road, so it's extremely loud right now. No I'm loving not Got a late start due to my wife being scheduled for the shot today (wooo!) And rain, then the drat truck broke down 5 miles from home. All my tools were at the hangar though so I got AAA to drag me there. Did the new ignition switch hoping that would fix it but no luck. Dug in and... What the gently caress?   I've had more distributor issues on this truck than every other Jeep I've owned, combined. Getting pretty tired of it really. Then Jack's TIG welder (which I hoped to use for the exhaust) didn't work because he got it fourth hand and it wasn't set up, so I had to figure that out, then I tried to learn to TIG weld stainless and that's not easy. So I packed my poo poo up and dragged it home and I'm going to MIG weld the exhaust tomorrow and Monday when the hangers and flanges arrive. Oh well. At least the TIG welder is set up now, though it has no arc extinguisher contactor (stinger is always hot) and no postflow due to being a Miller econo twin HF from 1985. I plan to fix both of those issues with a rack of relays and a little custom wiring next time I'm there but for now, MIG it is.
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Apr 18, 2021 08:43
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Today I was waiting on a prospective buyer for the 5 ton so I worked on the new bumper for the Honcho while I waited. First I got the mounts trimmed and located where I wanted, level to each other and marked and drilled the mounting holes.  Then clamped some guides to the top and got the beam in place and aligned.  Tacked it up, pulled it off the truck, full welded, and ground everything down where needed. Then put it all back on, which was hard because it's a tight fit and this is made out of 3/8 wall box tube and 3/4 plate so it literally weighs 100lb.  Think that's all for today.
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Apr 19, 2021 04:18
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kastein posted:No I'm loving not Well, that's new. Haven't seen that failure before. And yeah, those GM ignition switches suck. The one on my Cutlass is a pain in the rear end to adjust so that both "start" and "acc" work, due to slack in the actuator rack, not to mention the heat issues like you experienced. kastein posted:Today I was waiting on a prospective buyer for the 5 ton so I worked on the new bumper for the Honcho while I waited. That's some beef, there.
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Apr 21, 2021 19:54
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hey Kastein, is that ignition setup a GM style? I want to swap the ignition switch in my CJ7 because it's causing weirdness and not giving my HEI power from time to time, which pisses off my Sniper EFI something fierce.
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Apr 22, 2021 15:01
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It is. Yours should be too I think. The tilt and non tilt columns use different switches, jfyi.
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Apr 22, 2021 15:08
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Oh yeah I forgot to post this too... You know exactly what's happening here.  The final materials for my stainless exhaust on the MJ got here Monday and the Walker aluminized garbage finished falling off for the third time last Tuesday, so it was time to put the forever exhaust on the MJ this week. Running 75/25 and 0.030" ER308L wire on 16ga 304. I should have used trimix but I don't have it and I'm not buying it for one job. Also I suck at welding stainless. Whatever, it's ugly but it'll hold.    Also installed my boostwerks shifter linkage and the shifter handle off the white MJ. Dropped the MJ back half off at the hangar but didn't have energy left to turn it into a trailer yet since it was past 6am by the time I finished the shifter linkage.
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Apr 22, 2021 15:20
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kastein posted:No I'm loving not Had that happen to me once on my 95. Mine kept running but had a weird miss at idle that smoothed out at rpm. It took far to long to figure it out since its such an odd failure.
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Apr 22, 2021 17:35
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