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Can anyone point me to decent resin or other bases with rocky terrain that elevates the model somewhat? I have one of those older 40k space marine characters that is dwarfed next to a regular intercessor and would like to put him on a more heroic base.
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Apr 13, 2021 01:52
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Spanish Manlove posted:Luckily contrast paints and washes don't gum up the seal that bad so those are the only GW lines I'll still get Yeah it's incredible how much longer my contrast paint lasts than old pots of citadel paints I used to have. I might see the bottom of a pot yet!
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Apr 13, 2021 02:31
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Lucinice posted:I have Warhammer Underworlds warbands to paint. I want to get them looking similar to their card art so I need a variety of paints. Agree with the other comments, for sheer waste alone, the dropper bottles are far better. GW's pots are wasteful. But there's no big deal with mixing, I have tons of other paints, it's just I wish the spine of my paints was Vallejo, bc it's also cheaper
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Apr 13, 2021 04:02
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Lucinice posted:This is why it took me over a year to even try and start painting. In the end I just asked friends for the minimum amount of paints I needed for a project. There’s a lot of great advice here about what you actually “need,” especially when you should really buy based on what you plan to paint, but I will say this: Anytime I see a list like this and I don’t see Zandri Dust I’m always like “Aw man this list is missing Zandri Dust.”
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Apr 13, 2021 05:00
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I mostly buy Vallejo air paints now, because the consistency is just right for normal brushing too and I rarely have time to gently caress around with preparing my wet pallet anyway. I think there is some value to getting citadel paints, namely that a lot of tutorials use them, and as beginner it can be quite overwhelming to be told ‘just use another brown’ when you’re desperately trying to figure out what goes where and why. At this point it’s hard to imagine that GW doesn’t know that their bottles are by far the worst on the market, so it kinda has to be on purpose.
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Apr 13, 2021 06:00
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The first batch of GW inks that made it to California had an absurd number of leaking bottles in them. At Games of Berkeley we marked down a couple of dozen ink sets from our first order. it was a debacle. There were a couple of hundred bottles of ink headed for the trash. Well, we couldn't sell them but by drat there was still ink in most of those bottles. Before a week was out we had some amazing models in our display cases painted by employees. I still have a few bottles from that initial shipment, when I crack one open they're still good after decades.
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Apr 13, 2021 08:34
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Eej posted:My painting life goal is to be able to do something at a fraction of quality of David Soper's Plague Marine and he used the same highlight and shadow colour across every shade he used to add cohesiveness to the colour scheme. If he can use one white and one purpley black on top of a single base colour then you don't need to buy 2-3 progressively lighter/darker shades of your base colours to get the job done. Just patience and practice with blending and mixing.
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Apr 13, 2021 08:52
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jesus WEP posted:i recently did this on a model (light flesh to highlight, payne's grey to shade) and although it's not remotely in the same league as that plague marine i did like the subtle consistency it brought to the warmth of the highlights and coolness of the shadows Do you happen to know a good tutorial video on this? I don't trust myself not to muck up the shadows.
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Apr 13, 2021 14:21
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Sure do! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KHg1yfX-dXI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cD3bahZd_Nw Ultimately it's a matter of making a rough gradiant on your wet palette with progressively more of the highlight/shadow colour. In general I found you want to take it easy with the shadow, a little goes a long way. On the highlight side I maybe ended up with like a 2:1 mix of highlight:base, maybe even more highlight than that for the brightest areas jesus WEP fucked around with this message at 14:25 on Apr 13, 2021 |
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Apr 13, 2021 14:23
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2000 points of space wolves all painted up, here's the list if anyone's curious. https://pastebin.com/DCPLqTxS TLDR it's just spiced up indomitus  And here's the last dude painted for the army. Going to be run as Harald Deathwolf or a wolf lord with black death. Usually not the warlord, that's the bike     
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Apr 13, 2021 15:11
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Putting the finishing painting touches on 20 grots. This standard bearer is just about done.  Haven't decided how to base them yet. Currently leaning either dead, withered forest or overgrown swamp.
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Apr 13, 2021 16:09
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Does anyone have a good recommendation for a pale gold color with good coverage via brush and airbrush? Working on an Imperial Knight, and I'm paranoid that my gold trim is going to look all streaky because Citadel Liberator Gold sucks over large surfaces.
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Apr 13, 2021 19:18
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If all you have to work with are GW pots, I'd paint the entire area you want gold a medium brown, then paint a darker gold with good coverage over it, then paint your pale gold on top. I've never used liberator gold, but that's how I get good use out of Sycorax Bronze. Dark brown -> Balthazar Gold -> Sycorax Bronze makes Sycorax Bronze actually work.
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Apr 13, 2021 19:26
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Paddyo posted:Does anyone have a good recommendation for a pale gold color with good coverage via brush and airbrush? Working on an Imperial Knight, and I'm paranoid that my gold trim is going to look all streaky because Citadel Liberator Gold sucks over large surfaces. I may be misunderstanding what you want but Scale 75 citrine alchemy is ridiculously pale and covers really well.
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Apr 13, 2021 19:26
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Thanks for the advice. Kind of limited paint options where I live outside of Vallejo and Citadel. I like the idea of base coating brown though, so will give that a try.
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Apr 13, 2021 19:37
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Booyah- posted:
Very cool! I really like the grots' aesthetics.
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Apr 13, 2021 20:28
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Eej posted:My painting life goal is to be able to do something at a fraction of quality of David Soper's Plague Marine and he used the same highlight and shadow colour across every shade he used to add cohesiveness to the colour scheme. If he can use one white and one purpley black on top of a single base colour then you don't need to buy 2-3 progressively lighter/darker shades of your base colours to get the job done. Just patience and practice with blending and mixing. My more recent painting style has been to stick to a handful of colors and just add white/black to get different tones. I've been painting historicals a lot, so it hasn't been too hard, but I've also managed to do it with some other figures:  For Wolverine, I just used Vallejo Black, GW White Scar, Vallejo SS Middle Brown, GW Averland Sunset, GW Mephiston Red and GW Bugmans Flesh. I think the flesh I did on this Gnome is probably my best work to date. It's just Bugman's Flesh, White and a little bit of mephiston red to add some pink.  One day I too want to reach the point of someone like David Soper.
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Apr 13, 2021 21:18
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Crossposting: Working on a new bases for my Transuranic Arquebus Mechanicum lads:  
The Demilich fucked around with this message at 23:30 on Apr 14, 2021 |
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Apr 14, 2021 21:47
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Very cool. Also thumbnail image BBcode is your friend.
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Apr 14, 2021 23:12
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Apologies if this isn't a perfect fit here, but does anyone have a recommendation for a "center finder"-type device for drilling weapon barrels? I'm apparently incapable of eyeballing it effectively, and an off-center barrel hole looks worse than just leaving it undrilled.
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Apr 15, 2021 00:08
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Sharp/mechanical pencil, draw an X, drill at the cross. Just a matter of finding something that’ll show up on the plastic.
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Apr 15, 2021 00:27
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You can also do this very lightly with an xacto; making a decently symmetric x isn't hard. If you press slightly harder with each stroke near the middle of the barrel, where both strokes overlap (aka the center) there will be a nice start that means your pin vice won't wander. Once you have the barrel sufficiently drilled you can lightly file the front of the gun or shave it down ever so slightly to remove any remaining evidence of the cuts.
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Apr 15, 2021 00:38
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On bigger barrels I end up drilling a slightly off-center hole and then using the tip of my exacto to shave the hole into centeredness. It ain't much but it's honest work.
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Apr 15, 2021 01:21
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The Easy Rider posted:Apologies if this isn't a perfect fit here, but does anyone have a recommendation for a "center finder"-type device for drilling weapon barrels? I'm apparently incapable of eyeballing it effectively, and an off-center barrel hole looks worse than just leaving it undrilled. Get a pair of magnifiers. It's a game changing tool. I use 6x, at that magnification there's no missing center mass. I usually insert the tip of my scalpal and give it a little spin, creating a sort of pilot hole for the 1mm drill bit that I'll use afterwards to actually make the hole. Example: 
The Demilich fucked around with this message at 01:41 on Apr 15, 2021 |
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Apr 15, 2021 01:35
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  I got a weirdboy painted to tts. I think he's a little muddy, but I plan to revisit after I learn to do osl well, or maybe sooner idk
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Apr 15, 2021 03:12
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Mistaken For Bacon posted:
LOL are those gretchin puppeting that Weirdboy around Weekend at Bernies style?
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Apr 15, 2021 05:11
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Legendary Ptarmigan posted:You can also do this very lightly with an xacto; making a decently symmetric x isn't hard. If you press slightly harder with each stroke near the middle of the barrel, where both strokes overlap (aka the center) there will be a nice start that means your pin vice won't wander. Once you have the barrel sufficiently drilled you can lightly file the front of the gun or shave it down ever so slightly to remove any remaining evidence of the cuts. tangy yet delightful posted:On bigger barrels I end up drilling a slightly off-center hole and then using the tip of my exacto to shave the hole into centeredness. The Demilich posted:Get a pair of magnifiers. It's a game changing tool. Excellent advice all around, thank you. Looking into the magnifiers now, and will test out the scoring methods when I have some hobby time tomorrow.
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Apr 15, 2021 06:13
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AndyElusive posted:LOL are those gretchin puppeting that Weirdboy around Weekend at Bernies style? I always thought they were trying to hold him down so he wouldn’t fly away, but I think I like them puppeteering him more.
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Apr 15, 2021 07:13
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Bucnasti posted:I always thought they were trying to hold him down so he wouldn’t fly away, but I think I like them puppeteering him more. I feel like they're trying to stop him, saturday night in a city centre pub style "Leave it Dave! He's not worth it!".
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Apr 15, 2021 10:06
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The best art encourages the observer to bring their own meaning to the piece, or someting
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Apr 15, 2021 13:56
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I painted a purple titty lady (nsfw)
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Apr 15, 2021 14:39
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Zuul the Cat posted:My more recent painting style has been to stick to a handful of colors and just add white/black to get different tones. I've been painting historicals a lot, so it hasn't been too hard, but I've also managed to do it with some other figures: The black reads as blue. Are you a witch?
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Apr 15, 2021 15:05
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Silhouette posted:The black reads as blue. Are you a witch? Looks like black to me. I think what you're experiencing is a variant of what people experienced when they saw the infamous "dress" photo, which either appeared white and gold or black and blue. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_dress
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Apr 15, 2021 16:56
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Nah, I'm going with witchcraft
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Apr 15, 2021 16:58
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Did some more Grimcast: 
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Apr 15, 2021 18:49
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Silhouette posted:The black reads as blue. Are you a witch? MeinPanzer posted:Looks like black to me. I think what you're experiencing is a variant of what people experienced when they saw the infamous "dress" photo, which either appeared white and gold or black and blue. Silhouette posted:Nah, I'm going with witchcraft I am a witch, but it's just black with some white mixed in. Maybe it's from the light?
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Apr 15, 2021 21:28
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It looks blue because the pure black is a colder colour next to the warm yellow and is accentuated by the shade colour being the same as the pure black. So your brain perceives the shaded areas of the yellow fabric (spandex?) as approaching black and it sees the pure black as blue because it's too cold to be the same black as the one being used to shade the yellow. If that makes sense.
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Apr 16, 2021 00:54
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Finished a test model for my blood bowl team! Just need to apply transfers and varnish, but I'll apply all the transfers when the whole team is done. 
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Apr 16, 2021 01:11
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And for something much different, I picked up some STLs for a death korps of krieg force so I decided to paint up a test model for that! This was super fun and easy to paint up. Primed black (using the Vallejo Mecha primer and it's far superior to the Stynelrez imo), coated with Vallejo Air Intermediate blue, zenithal'd with white ink. Then everything was just mixes of various contrast paints except for the metals and washes. The cloak is Gryph Charger Grey mixed with Basilicanum Grey, the helmet is straight basilicanum, wyrdwood for the gun, skeleton horde for the leather/canvas bags, and some gore-grunta fur for the boots (mixed with skeleton horde). The metal is Vallejo Metal Magnesium and the gold is PP Necrotic Gold.Then I washed the cold areas with nuln oil and the brown areas (including armor) with agrax earthshade. Overall it took about an hour, with a lot of time spent choosing paints, and included time drying with the hair dryer and hitting with varnish at the end. Verisimilidude fucked around with this message at 04:13 on Apr 16, 2021 |
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Apr 16, 2021 04:06
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 I finished a Tech-Priest Manipulus, pretty happy with how it turned out. It was my first admech guy. A lot more spindly bits than the orks.
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Apr 16, 2021 04:18
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