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Scruffpuff posted:OK I got a question about my car that's been bugging me, it's a bizarre trait I've never had on other cars, I'll describe it best I can. I'm commenting on something I know nothing about...or maybe a tiny bit. I have heard that the ECU will respond and set itself to the driving (throttle) habits of the operator, and that sudden changes in expected/programmed behaviour can make the car behave somewhat oddly. For the love of god, please, someone that understands this better, please post. e: are you loving kidding me on the new page 
PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 14:50 on Apr 18, 2021 |
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Apr 18, 2021 14:47
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So apparently I'm utter poo poo at drilling out bolts that have rusted solid (or were welded into it, who knows). The 3 bolts on the exhaust flange that connects to the distal end of the cat an mi '98 S10 were messed up by rust, so I had to cut them off. I now need to drill the remains out in order to fit the exhaust again. I am thinking that it'll take many hours and drill heads to do this as it took ages just getting a few mm's into one of the holes. I drilled at a decent speed and used plent of cutting oil. I'm thinking that I should probably just say gently caress it and order one of these that has the flange in question: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=975721&jsn=__GIP__4__. Would it be a decent idea to get this, cut the old one off at the same length and use one of those bridging pipes? I don't have a welder. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 15:54 on Apr 18, 2021 |
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Apr 18, 2021 15:51
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Will removing the flange ears and installing a triangle split flange work? https://www.ebay.com/itm/FX4050SP-2-1-2-2-5-Triangle-Exhaust-Split-Flange-For-2-1-4-2-25-Flared-Y-Pipe-/161349744382
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Apr 18, 2021 16:00
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Scruffpuff posted:
DBW affects a bunch of brands with the symptoms you describe. And yeah, with transmission adaptations combined with everything else it is a mess. Sounds like your transmission is trying to hunt for the right gear by what you describe. You might be a candidate for a throttle mapping tool. Pedal commander and Banks have their own versions and they are $300 (about the going price for a jpeg) but a lot of people swear by them. Amazon carries the pedal commander so if you make the plunge it will be an easy return if it doesn't work in your scenario.
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Apr 18, 2021 17:33
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C-Bangin' it 
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Does any marque other than Porsche recognize a "double tap" on the noisy pedal to mean "downshift two gears"? Because that could fix the problem right there. I use it all the time, especially when pulling a trailer.
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Apr 18, 2021 17:36
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Motronic posted:Does any marque other than Porsche recognize a "double tap" on the noisy pedal to mean "downshift two gears"? Because that could fix the problem right there. I use it all the time, especially when pulling a trailer. I've yet to see another marque with it which is a shame because it's a fantastic idea. Scruffpuff posted:Make/Model: 2015 Dodge Challenger R/T, 8-cyl 5.7 liter Its working nominally for a cryco slushy. seriouspost. use Sport mode/reflash the pcm to be more responsive.
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Apr 18, 2021 17:48
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Scruffpuff posted:OK I got a question about my car that's been bugging me, it's a bizarre trait I've never had on other cars, I'll describe it best I can.
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Apr 18, 2021 17:53
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Motronic posted:Does any marque other than Porsche recognize a "double tap" on the noisy pedal to mean "downshift two gears"? Because that could fix the problem right there. I use it all the time, especially when pulling a trailer. I mean it's a CVT so "gears" is a frame of mind, but double-tapping the gas pedal in my crosstrek will downshift
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Apr 18, 2021 17:55
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DildenAnders posted:Do the RPMs surge and then drop? Does the car shutter when it starts speeding up again? Does it happen more when you're turning (particularly to the left)? Because "it feels like my car shifts to neutral while my RPMs spike" is exactly what a slipping transmission feels like, and many will start slipping only when you're trying to floor it at first. While a car that new shouldn't be slipping, it's not outside the realm of possibility considering it's a torquey engine. None of those things happen, and this when I'm going straight. It's not a slip exactly, the feel is almost like the electronic controls are second-guessing me.
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Apr 18, 2021 18:18
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Motronic posted:Does any marque other than Porsche recognize a "double tap" on the noisy pedal to mean "downshift two gears"? Because that could fix the problem right there. I use it all the time, especially when pulling a trailer. I got a car with paddle shifters for this reason, but my car's transmission is responsive enough that I rarely need to use it. Tapping a paddle is also much less fun than driving a manual. 
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Apr 18, 2021 18:24
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Is there a way to test if a strut is leaking when it's in the whole assembly, off the car? I pulled a couple struts that I couldn't find leaking on from a car in a junkyard yesterday because the assemblies were $20 each while the only new struts are $200, but I've never done an inspection on struts myself so I'd like to take a look before sticking them on if possible. At the same time, I plan on just swapping the whole assembly if possible because then I don't have to gently caress around with a spring compressor. Second question, that car seemed to have upgraded brakes but had been sitting for a couple months with the wheels off so there's rust all over the rotors, are they a loss at this point? How do I tell if it has rusted to the point of pitting vs the point of cleaning and polishing? 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 19:28 on Apr 18, 2021 |
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Apr 18, 2021 19:23
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sarcastx posted:As far as I'm aware it's impossible to open the driver's door without the sound going off besides disconnecting the speaker (or battery). Update on this post: I decided "gently caress it" and skipped the resistor. Engine off = speaker completely disconnected, no load on the wire. So far the car is not complaining (and neither am I!) And the turn signal sound & other miscellaneous beeps work properly when the car is running. I decided not to bother sourcing a connector set - once I'd found the technical drawings for that connector I knew how to "undo" the housing to back the positive terminal out of the connector. I then ran a separate male terminal from that pin back to the relay, wrapped the whole mess in electrical tape and physically secured the wire & relay back to the main harness. I figure this way if I ever need to reverse the setup to stock I can do it (and I didn't need to cut any wires either). sarcastx fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Apr 18, 2021 |
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Apr 18, 2021 19:56
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Uthor posted:I got a car with paddle shifters for this reason, but my car's transmission is responsive enough that I rarely need to use it. Yeah, I have paddles too (or you can toggle with the shifter) but I just don't use them. If I touch one then I have to move the shifter into "maunmatic" mode and back over to automatic. Much easier to just double tap. It also literally drops directly two gears when you do that, which is not possible with the paddles that would make you pass through an intermediate gear on the way.
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Apr 18, 2021 21:16
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PainterofCrap posted:Will removing the flange ears and installing a triangle split flange work? If I understand this contraption correctly, I'll grind off the "ears" (i.e the bits with the holes) and the feed the bolts through the cat flange holes and compress it that way? My only concern is that it looks les "clean" than having one of those bridge pipes. For inspection etc.
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Apr 18, 2021 21:21
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Motronic posted:Yeah, I have paddles too (or you can toggle with the shifter) but I just don't use them. If I touch one then I have to move the shifter into "maunmatic" mode and back over to automatic. That's annoying. Mine will pop back into normal drive mode after a few seconds of constant throttle driving. If I stay on or off the gas (eg, engine braking down a hill), it will stay in manual mode.
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Apr 18, 2021 21:25
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Uthor posted:Mine will pop back into normal drive mode after a few seconds of constant throttle driving. I think I have something to try the next time I'm out driving. I don't remember this being a thing, but it's been so long that perhaps I never actually waited long enough/tried.
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Apr 18, 2021 21:35
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MrOnBicycle posted:If I understand this contraption correctly, I'll grind off the "ears" (i.e the bits with the holes) and the feed the bolts through the cat flange holes and compress it that way? My only concern is that it looks less "clean" than having one of those bridge pipes. For inspection etc. I would check your local shop/inspection facility to be sure - the ones I have used are far more rugged than the stamped piece that's welded on. Never had anyone question their use, though. They work great
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Apr 19, 2021 02:22
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VelociBacon posted:(Crossposting from the VW/Audi thread) Quoting myself to say that I finally managed to capture the data anomaly in the sensor:  To me this looks like the sensor is failing (not the wiring). I would expect with failing wiring the signal would drop to zero and not have super high random data points. If anyone has something to add I'm all ears, but I figure I'll order a new MAF at this point.
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Apr 19, 2021 07:42
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Why couldn't the signal wire be shorting to ground, 5v or even 12v somewhere intermittently?
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Apr 19, 2021 07:51
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spankmeister posted:Why couldn't the signal wire be shorting to ground, 5v or even 12v somewhere intermittently? That's a good question, I tried to rule this out by manipulating it as best I could aggressively (detached from loom mounting points and really went to town) at every point from the main loom to the MAF itself while looking at live MAF data, I can't imagine that it's somehow shorting out to other rails or to ground when I'm just gently driving around. I also don't live in an area where we have salt on our roads for much of the year and overall there isn't any visible corrosion that I would expect to see in a car having loom continuity issues. But it could still be happening somewhere in the firewall or similar. I absolutely think that it could be shorting out within the sensor itself given that it looks like this and might have a PCB inside (I don't know for sure but it looks more complex than the heated wire stuff I'm used to seeing): 
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Apr 19, 2021 08:03
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Of course it's more complicated, it's a Volkswagen.
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Apr 19, 2021 08:08
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PainterofCrap posted:I would check your local shop/inspection facility to be sure - the ones I have used are far more rugged than the stamped piece that's welded on. Never had anyone question their use, though. They work great I tried to find one of those you linked that didn't need shipping from the US, and I managed to find the exhaust part that I need for less than it would cost to ship from the US, so I'll cut it to size and use a bridgning pipe so attach them together. If I get a welder in the future I can weld it all together as well. Thank for the help!
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Apr 19, 2021 08:43
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VelociBacon posted:That's a good question, I tried to rule this out by manipulating it as best I could aggressively (detached from loom mounting points and really went to town) at every point from the main loom to the MAF itself while looking at live MAF data, I can't imagine that it's somehow shorting out to other rails or to ground when I'm just gently driving around. I also don't live in an area where we have salt on our roads for much of the year and overall there isn't any visible corrosion that I would expect to see in a car having loom continuity issues. But it could still be happening somewhere in the firewall or similar. Hit up a junkyard and nab a used one or two before you spring for a brand new one. It's still a heated wire sensor, though. Also some GMs use a drat near identical sensor. This is the one my old Saturn used:  e: I just looked up the one yours uses... they are drat near identical, possibly the same OEM even? Probably mapped/pinned differently, there's an $80 difference in the same brand. Junkyard candidates for a used sensor: AUDI A3 2005-2008 AUDI TT 2007-2013 VOLKSWAGEN BORA 2006-2010 VOLKSWAGEN EOS 2007-2009 VOLKSWAGEN GLI 2010 VOLKSWAGEN GOLF 2012-2013 VOLKSWAGEN GTI 2006-2008 VOLKSWAGEN JETTA 2006-2008 VOLKSWAGEN PASSAT 2006-2010 randomidiot fucked around with this message at 14:02 on Apr 19, 2021 |
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Apr 19, 2021 13:54
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STR posted:Hit up a junkyard and nab a used one or two before you spring for a brand new one. That's crazy, thanks for that breakdown, I'll have to see but I have a kneejerk reaction to avoid junkyards, the ones here in Vancouver are all just ran by scumlords and I feel like I'd be paying the same cost as a new bosch one for something that might have it's own issues.
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Apr 19, 2021 14:02
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Oh, I was assuming you might have access to a DIY yard.  I'm not entirely sure that's the sensor myself, that momentary dropout does seem more like wiring... but if you can't get it to drop out while loving around with the harness, and you've already ohmed out the signal wire, the sensor would be my next guess. You've tried wiggling wires at the ECU too? And checked any grounds related to the sensor and ECU? randomidiot fucked around with this message at 14:07 on Apr 19, 2021 |
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Apr 19, 2021 14:03
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STR posted:Oh, I was assuming you might have access to a DIY yard. I haven't gone into the ECU because it's such a nightmare, you have to pull the wipers, it's kinda underneath them inside the firewall and you need to bend metal clips to get it out etc. I picked up a delphi sensor replacement on Amazon where I have prime and can just return it if it doesn't solve the issue. Thanks! e: I grew up going to u-pick yards but afaik they're basically obsolete here now. They have staff that go and pick the part for you and you pick it up and overpay. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 14:24 on Apr 19, 2021 |
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Apr 19, 2021 14:21
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VelociBacon posted:That's a good question, I tried to rule this out by manipulating it as best I could aggressively (detached from loom mounting points and really went to town) at every point from the main loom to the MAF itself while looking at live MAF data, I can't imagine that it's somehow shorting out to other rails or to ground when I'm just gently driving around. I also don't live in an area where we have salt on our roads for much of the year and overall there isn't any visible corrosion that I would expect to see in a car having loom continuity issues. But it could still be happening somewhere in the firewall or similar. What you really need is a scope that you attach to the requisite pins on the sensor, and then you take it for a drive to see which wire fucks up.
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Apr 19, 2021 15:18
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Opinions on 3M Obsidian tint? I had to tear my front window tint off awhile back - when I first bought my car, the tint measured at 24%..... legal limit is 25%. (seriously dude? that's within the margin of error on your loving meter). The rest of the tint is in rough shape too (purple everywhere, bubbling a bit on the hatch) - I'm likely going to remove it myself (steam) and get the car re-tinted. Car is very much a beater, so I don't care that much about the longevity of the tint.. I just want it to be not-purple. And not gently caress with my I got an okay quote from the place across the street from me, and I deliver to them fairly often (I still do food delivery in the mornings after work, they order breakfast most weekdays), hoping maybe I can work a "just zero out the tip if it's me delivering for the next couple of months" if they'll cut me a deal (they tip very generously, and I'm often the only driver online in this area at that hour). VelociBacon posted:I haven't gone into the ECU because it's such a nightmare, you have to pull the wipers, it's kinda underneath them inside the firewall and you need to bend metal clips to get it out etc. Oh yeah... VW.  Delphi is good, but the Delphi sensor has a good shot at really being a Hitachi. Hitachi was the OEM for GM's sensors, even the ones with a Delphi logo on them; the Hitachi sensor I bought (at half the price of the Delphi) showed up in a Hitachi box... with a Delphi logo and GM part number on the actual sensor once I pulled it out of the box.  (Rockauto did mention Hitachi was the OEM) If that doesn't do it though, you're gonna have to start poking at the ECU wiring.Where I grew up the yards were a bit of "if you wanna pull it, we'll take you to the car, or if you want to at least see the car first, we'll let you see it", but that was before some of our stair-climbing forum members were even born (1990s). Then spent 20 years surrounded by multiple Pick n Pull (branded) yards + plenty of other DIY yards. Where I'm at now, it's LKQ (30 minutes away, where you stand a good chance of getting charged an "extended warranty" for poo poo like an ashtray, and you don't notice until you look at the receipt later.. which is helpfully stamped "NO WARRANTY" when you walk out), or Wrench A Part (45 minutes away). Only DIY options where I'm at now. Plenty of full service yards, but I only do a full service yard for an engine or transmission, and even then, only if they're willing to install it and warranty it for at least 2 weeks. I don't have the garage space - or time - to do engine/transmission swaps. We have a DIY garage locally that's very well equipped, but it's $35/hour, and the only real help with that is the lift (they have air tools, but I have a decent cordless impact). e: VVV listen to this guy, he's an actual engineer and knows how this stuff works far better than anybody else in here randomidiot fucked around with this message at 17:21 on Apr 19, 2021 |
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Apr 19, 2021 15:23
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I don't know that particular MAF but most of them output a frequency not a voltage. Generally higher frequency maps to higher massflow. It looks like you're getting maxed out readings when it fails - only thing I can think of is the sensor is failing or the wiring going intermittent is making it read a very high massflow rate, but it would be hard to cause that by hand, at least on the frequency ranges I've seen for them. Verify that that sensor is calibrated that way before trusting this info but my expectation is that a new sensor will fix this.
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Apr 19, 2021 15:45
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Ive been enjoying my Miata but never have experienced driving a higher horsepower vehicle and it would be cool to rent one for a day and take it down highway 35 or something, does anyone have experience with turo or rentals in the Bay Area, CA? I found a Porsche dealership that rents out 718s so thats an option
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Apr 21, 2021 23:35
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There's a very inexpensive 6-speed 997 you can rent just south of SF. It's it nice shape, and is owned by Turo's CEO Andre Haddad (who is a really nice guy). I highly recommend it. I've had it over several weekends in the before times. Just know it's 100% bone stock, so no bluetooth or anything. It's often run like poop when i first got it because as he tells me "most people drive it to the city and park it in front of a restaurant". I've made it a point to flog it back into running well when I've had it. It doesn't take long. Motronic fucked around with this message at 23:48 on Apr 21, 2021 |
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Apr 21, 2021 23:45
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Motronic posted:There's a very inexpensive 6-speed 997 you can rent just south of SF. It's it nice shape, and is owned by Turo's CEO Andre Haddad (who is a really nice guy). That's a beaut. The problem with Turo's website is that I am unable to filter by make/model, I'll be on the lookout
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Apr 22, 2021 00:17
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Thom ZombieForm posted:That's a beaut. The problem with Turo's website is that I am unable to filter by make/model, I'll be on the lookout https://turo.com/us/en/car-rental/united-states/hillsborough-ca/porsche/911/279 See if that works. That's from "car info" in my history.
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Apr 22, 2021 00:24
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Whats the best forum approved rust converter? I have some surface rust on the rear seatbelt brackets at the floorboard. Toyota told me to go gently caress myself on replacing them under restraint systems warranty (even though they corroded without any known water exposure  ) because they won't do warranty work 'on a preventative basis' because 'its just surface rust.' They weren't responsive when I asked why a fatal catastrophic failure was the line for replacement so...I don't really want to yank everything out and replace it myself (though I may eventually) so I'm just going to hit with a quick converter for the near term. Thoughts?
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Apr 22, 2021 02:25
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What kind of finish are you after? I've used Por 15 and Eastwooda rust encapsulator and both have stood up well for a few years. I think cleaning it and waxing it would be enough though for something inside the cab that's only getting incidental moisture.
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Apr 22, 2021 02:49
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StormDrain posted:What kind of finish are you after? I've used Por 15 and Eastwooda rust encapsulator and both have stood up well for a few years. I think cleaning it and waxing it would be enough though for something inside the cab that's only getting incidental moisture. Just something to stop the rust progression. Prob not painting it furtherjust light oil on it or something else after. Its just hard to access with the seatbelt running through it so it needs to be fairly easy to apply with a brush, so probably not a spray so I can minimize how much goes into the seatbelt itself.
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Apr 22, 2021 12:24
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Thom ZombieForm posted:Ive been enjoying my Miata but never have experienced driving a higher horsepower vehicle and it would be cool to rent one for a day and take it down highway 35 or something, does anyone have experience with turo or rentals in the Bay Area, CA? I found a Porsche dealership that rents out 718s so thats an option Seconding Turo - I have used it to rent a Mustang, a WRX STI, and a Cayenne (all in the Hawaiian islands). Not the Bay Area, I know, but I do like the service. It's pretty affordable and the real treat is the variety available in larger cities (a friend of mine has rented a current-gen NSX in Chicago). In fact I recommend it for anyone who's considering going electric for their daily because there are lots of Teslas, and it's the only way I know of where you can try living with an electric car for like, a week. sarcastx fucked around with this message at 12:54 on Apr 22, 2021 |
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Apr 22, 2021 12:49
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LeeMajors posted:Just something to stop the rust progression. Prob not painting it further—just light oil on it or something else after. It’s just hard to access with the seatbelt running through it so it needs to be fairly easy to apply with a brush, so probably not a spray so I can minimize how much goes into the seatbelt itself. If it's just light surface rust I'd ignore it, TBH. You are more likely to reduce the belt strength by getting paint in it than you are to ever notice the difference in strength from rust on the bracket. Those generally get a light coating of flash rust and then never progress past that point.
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Apr 22, 2021 14:01
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Would a dent in a power steering pump reservoir make it unusable?   I was trying to rebuild in the one on the left and succeeded in ovaling out the bolt holes to the point that I don't think the o-rings will seal, then got another and promptly dropped it on the garage floor after I unpacked it. 
PeterCat fucked around with this message at 17:25 on Apr 22, 2021 |
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Apr 22, 2021 17:22
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As long as it's not going to occlude the opening in the pump that picks up fluid and won't interfere with mounting or sealing I don't see why that would be an issue.
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Apr 22, 2021 17:31
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