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Should I get any 20 dollar obd2 scanner on amazon, or is there any one that’s cheap and particularly good?
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Apr 27, 2021 03:25
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I've been very happy with this one. I think they have a newer version which works via Bluetooth with iPhones. Androids should be able to use any BT module, iPhones work with Wifi or apparently the newer BLE ones.
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Apr 27, 2021 04:07
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I use this one: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07TG26FR4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Note: Canadian Amazon.
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Apr 27, 2021 04:56
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So this may not necessarily apply to cars, but it's still 12V battery stuff. What the hell is a Thin Plate Pure Lead battery, and on top of that, why does it need a different type of charger? My workplace is retrofitting the batteries and chargers on our power equipment (pallet jacks + walk-behind forklifts), and we've been told in no uncertain terms NOT to plug the stuff with new batteries into the older chargers. Previously everything had flooded lead acid batteries, and used a fairly dumb charger (had an LED segment display to show how many amps were going into the battery, that was it). Specifically, we're getting Hawker Flex battery packs with the Battery Boss for everything, and Hawker Lifetech Mod1 chargers (notably not the Mod1C, which seems like it can communicate with the battery boss to schedule equalization charges and the like). The upside is they don't need watering on a daily basis like the old batteries did, seem to last a shitload longer (though the old batteries were also at least 5 years old), and the new chargers crank out 100 amps initially (old ones peaked around 80 amps). Nice thing is we got an additional charger out of this (so a total of 5 in the entire store, for 6 pieces of equipment - but we still have 2 of the old style chargers - 2 of 3 forklifts still have flooded batteries)., buuuuuut... here's where they put the new charger:  Shelving was there first. Can't hit the "stop/cancel" button on the charger.... and 100 amps makes for a decent spark if you need to unplug it before it's done charging (which is 99% of the time, it's very rare that anything can run a full charge cycle - even rarer when it can run an equalization cycle). 
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Apr 27, 2021 15:07
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STR posted:What the hell is a Thin Plate Pure Lead battery, and on top of that, why does it need a different type of charger? Marketing term for an AGM battery. So yeah, you need to use AGM chargers.
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Apr 27, 2021 15:09
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That's what I was thinking, but a few Google hits made it sound like it was a bit newer tech than an AGM. What would happen if we plugged the flooded lead acid stuff into the newer charges, or the newer batteries into the old school chargers? There's notes on everything warning not to mix them up (and the connectors are different colors), but... it's retail. Nobody gives a poo poo except for the receiver (who isn't there 24/7). It's overnight manglement's or lead's problem to plug them in once we're done with them normally, though I always make sure to plug them in when not in use. I assume the newer chargers would either recognize the difference and charge accordingly, or refuse to charge. The old ones just start buzzing away 5 seconds after they sense power on the battery cables. Though from what I understand, the old ones are supposed to be gone in a day or two anyway. I assume these are still deep cycle batteries, right? I noticed they also have a low voltage sensor on them that appears to be capable of cutting power to the equipment. The pallet jacks weigh nearly 3000 lbs, the forklifts probably weigh more, so that's gonna be REAL annoying if someone runs it down (there's an obvious piezo on them, at least, but we've had to use a forklift to carry dead pallet jacks back to a charger even with the old flooded batteries). e: our pallet jacks, for reference... also shows the amazing place they put the new charger... have to park it partially blocking a very busy hallway (from receiving into the store): 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 15:39 on Apr 27, 2021 |
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Apr 27, 2021 15:36
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STR posted:I assume the newer chargers would either recognize the difference and charge accordingly, or refuse to charge. Or charge them wrong. Who knows. I know I have to select the correct things on the chargers I've used. Maybe those big boy commercial ones can autosense. STR posted:I assume these are still deep cycle batteries, right? That technology doesn't mean they are deep cycle, but based on the application I would assume they'd have to be.
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Apr 27, 2021 15:40
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Hawker advertises them with this: "Offers opportunity charging with no battery changing" "Only one full charge and equalization per week" "Ideal for multi-shift operations" "Provide solutions in areas/applications with difficulty in: ...... •Obtaining a full recharge daily" I'll have to get a model # off of an actual battery, but the model # from the entire assembly doesn't pull up anything. All I can tell is it's a Hawker Flex battery pack, likely one of the models with a counterweight (there's 4 12V batteries, in a parallel-series config to put out 372 amp hours @ 24V... they don't come close to taking up the entire battery pack assembly, which is the black metal portion of the jack between the motor/controls and the forks/guard). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 16:29 on Apr 27, 2021 |
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Apr 27, 2021 15:57
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Automotive in the sense that the thing is on wheels but idk if this is the right thread. Im trying to wrap my head around the math required to size an alternator properly to run an inverter. This is for a motorhome and what I want to achieve is AC power to the coach while the engine is running. The RV has a generator but A) I don't want to have to run it just for small draw appliances while driving and 2) it's overkill if I'm not running the RVs air conditioners. So as a thought experiment if I wanted to run a 2,000 watt runtime inverter at full capacity, how would I go about determining what size alternator I need? The RV also has a bank of batteries for the "house", but for my purposes I am just trying to get an idea of the amperage required on the alternator side.
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Apr 28, 2021 01:03
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The direct math would be 2000w/14.4v=138 amps. I am unsure and I doubt that a 140amp alternator will be giving you that at anything but the exact peak but I believe you can look at rpm and charging curves to figure that out, knowing your cruising speed, engine rpm and pulley sizes. Finally I would challenge that you're going to use 2000w consistently. That would be running two microwaves constantly, or a couple of electric burners. Maybe a mobile grow OP? Bitcoin mining? Otherwise like a TV and gaming rig might draw 1000w.
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Apr 28, 2021 03:26
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Has anyone else used NRS brake pads? If so, are they worth the price? If they aren't, then what other brands are worth looking at? Also, what should I look for in brake rotors? Would the anti-corrosion coating be worth going for, considering I live in the Northeast US where they'd be seeing plenty of snow and road salt?
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Apr 28, 2021 03:36
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Hey folks. We bought a 2015 Subaru Forester about a month ago and we're having an issue with the AC down here in Texas. On full blast, it will sometimes stop cooling air completely. The fan will keep blowing, but the air coming out of it will just not be cold at all. After a couple of minutes it will go back to cold, but then another 5 minutes or so later, the cycle repeats. Is this unfortunate but expected behavior for some reason? If not, any ideas?
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Apr 28, 2021 13:55
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Cockmaster posted:Has anyone else used NRS brake pads? If so, are they worth the price? If they aren't, then what other brands are worth looking at? Akebono brake pads are what I use, and coated rotors are worth it in rusty areas. I always get Akebono pads and Raybestos rotors, but those are my preferences.
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Apr 28, 2021 14:53
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We used to have an A/C thread. You could be low on refrigerant, which means you may have a leak. The compressor could be failing. The orifice tube may be blocked with contaminants, which means replacing it, which hopefully does not mean the deconstruction of your entire interior dash area below the windshield to get at a $37 part.
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Apr 28, 2021 14:53
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Boss wants me to look at service trucks. Think 3/4-1 tons with a flat deck and removable sides like you might see with a landscape company. Pros and cons of gas vs diesel. Gm vs Ford vs. Chrysler? I think he's kinda leaning towards Ford but the 6liter that we had several years ago didn't leave a good impression. Are the..... 6.7s(?) In the Ford's any better? How about the Duramax? Is the Cummins in the dodges still the only good thing about them? E: he hasn't specified what year but probably something less than 5 years old wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 15:46 on Apr 28, 2021 |
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Apr 28, 2021 15:43
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StormDrain posted:The direct math would be 2000w/14.4v=138 amps. The other advantage here is that on a vehicle, you aren't reliant on the alternator alone - it's an alternator/battery system. Even if the alternator isn't running at the exact RPM needed to meet its max output when you get a 2kW startup draw, the battery can handle that and will recharge again as the load decreases. Unless the goal is an alternator driving an inverter completely isolated from the rest of the vehicle's system, which seems like a bad idea.
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Apr 28, 2021 17:04
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What's the best way to fix this without replacing the exhaust? It only needs to last about two years. I was thinking I could put an exhaust band clamp on it like the Walker 33979.
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Apr 28, 2021 23:39
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If you don't really give a poo poo and are getting rid of it in a couple years, that solution sounds as good as any.
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Apr 28, 2021 23:41
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A soup can, tin snips, handful of "muffler butter", and two hose clamps will probably outlast the rest of the exhaust. I'm not sure that exhaust is going to last 2 years though.
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Apr 28, 2021 23:49
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What would last me longer, a 2011 Nissan Sentra with 150k miles, or a 1998 Honda Civic with 150k miles?
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Apr 29, 2021 06:53
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Those are so far apart.... but automatic or manual? And do you already have eyes on specific ones? If so, what kind of price? If both are automatic, Civic, so long as you get the timing belt change within 30 seconds of purchase. It's either never been done, or was done at one point, but still way overdue just by age alone. Factor $600-700ish for that if an indie shop does it. Make sure to always use Honda transmission fluid. The Sentra would be using a CVT instead of a traditional automatic, and Nissan's CVTs are notoriously lovely; they tend to poo poo out anywhere from 30k-150k. I'd be asking about maintenance history, particularly with the transmission fluid, on the Sentra. If manual, and the Sentra isn't a SE-R, it's a tossup. The Nissan uses a timing chain, so that's one less thing to deal with. The SE-R's engine was prone to eating its own catalytic converter in earlier years (2011 shouldn't be an issue). The Sentra will be a much safer car in a wreck. Also, the miles on the Civic scream either "rarely driven" or "driven around town on short trips constantly", so it'll likely wind up leaking oil from every gasket once you start driving it often. The Civic will be dead simple to work on. I've had a 96 before (pretty much identical to a 98), and you could do pretty much everything on it with basic hand tools. The exception being the timing belt - the crank pulley bolt is tightened to roughly 1,000,000,069,420 ft/lbs and requires a Super Nutfucker 9000 to remove. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:06 on Apr 29, 2021 |
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Apr 29, 2021 08:03
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What's the preferred penetration product for rusty bolt removal? My rear brake caliper bracket bolts on my 2015 sienna are pretty stuck (standing on my rachet didn't work), and I can't get an impact back there due to my shock cockblocking access. I'd like to remove them to replace my rotors if possible. My next attempt at this will most likely be Sunday so I'll likely go under there once or twice to give them a shot.
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Apr 29, 2021 13:39
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PB blaster is pretty popular on the forums, but likely any real penetrating oil will work. WD 40 is good for many things but its NOT penetrating oil, just fyi. Try to hit it every day if possible. E: Do you mean literally standing on your ratchet? If you've got a propane torch, that will help too.
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Apr 29, 2021 14:35
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AmbassadorofSodomy posted:PB blaster is pretty popular on the forums, but likely any real penetrating oil will work. WD 40 is good for many things but its NOT penetrating oil, just fyi. Yeah I know WD40 is not to use. as a penetrating oil. I figured PB blaster was the right deal but it was not sure if some other miracle product was around.. Yes I have a torch to heat it up with as well but wanted to blast it for a few days beforehand. My fronts did not need this amout of work but were probably changed at some point prior to me owning the car. Yes literally standing on my ratchet / breaker bar. I live in the northeast.. Rust from winter salt and moisture 1/2 the year is not a joke. Go watch South main auto youtube channel to see what I'm dealing with. He had to come up with an action plan to not total out a Charger for a wheel speed sensor. I think his action plan starts around where the link goes https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FCy-YcZ2Xs4&t=874s I enjoy watching him because he runs into the same rust issues that I get to when I"m doing my car work.
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Apr 29, 2021 15:05
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I have had Kroil succeed where PB Blaster could not. Depending on the geometry, you also might be able to use a floor jack to push up on your breaker bar from below harder than you could ever jump on it from above.
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Apr 29, 2021 15:09
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Eric at SMA is an awesome watch. I feel bad for him and the cars he has to work on though, those things just get destroyed up there. I've used PB Blaster, and Liquid Wrench Penetrating Oil. When I had trouble with my caliper bolts, the big 25" breaker bar from Harbor Freight gave me the leverage to pop them loose.
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Apr 29, 2021 15:18
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Geometry is probalby not going to allow for that action on the drivers side.. too many suspensiony bits in the way to get it proper. I'll grab some Kroil / PB and get under there and shoot it up.
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Apr 29, 2021 15:19
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E: again ^^^^^ Yeah, you're right about that, on the driver's side you'd need to push down. Passenger side might work though. I'm from Canada (Ontario) so we get rusty shits here too. Gotta say though, I've been lucky, The worst bolts I ever had were when I got the clutch changed on my old Mazda and the transmission shop cranked my lug nuts down afterwards. Put a 4 foot drill rod on my tire iron and lifted. Bent the poo poo out of the tire iron. Lugs didn't budge. One of the garages I used to work at, they would heat the part (Ox&Ac torch) and then spray it with penetrating oil. Then sometimes hit it with the torch again, and spray more. Obviously don't use flammable penetrating oil for this  E: If you're standing on a ratchet or breaker bar and its still not loosening, unless you've got a nut fucker of an impact, you probably wouldn't budge those bolts now that I think of it. Like the 18 volt de-ry-waukee-bosch impacts that people use for building decks and poo poo just don't have enough torque or beats to unfuck something like that. My (non-fuel) M18 impact won't even take my lug nuts off once I've torqued them to spec. wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 15:29 on Apr 29, 2021 |
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Apr 29, 2021 15:23
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AmbassadorofSodomy posted:E: again ^^^^^ Yeah, you're right about that, on the driver's side you'd need to push down. Passenger side might work though. I have the new 650ftlb backing force Ryobi that got relapsed in feb (and they had to get off the pallet on the top shelf). But again the suspension geometry sucks and I can't get to the bolts because the shock is in the way. I can barely get my 1/2" driver in there. I might be able to use my small jack under it to move to get a better angle with the shock Before I do all that dicking around I'll PB it and heat it up with my blue torch.. and if not I'll go visit my buddy's shop and pay em 75 and a case of beer to let use his lift and tools. He's just a bit of a drive for me and I'd have to find a day his lifts aren't occupied. Thanksfor the adivce will grab some Kroil and get it on there on lunch, and again tomorrow and agian saturday. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 15:40 on Apr 29, 2021 |
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Apr 29, 2021 15:34
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Do you happen to have a DIY style shop in your area? We have one here, I think it's $35 an hour to rent a lift, and they'll jump in and help when needed (for a bit extra). We needed the blue tipped OxA wrench to convince my axle to pop out of the hub (that was after unbolting the knuckle, putting the whole knuckle in a press, and bending the loving press). Weird thing is neither the bearing nor axle stub had any visible rust, or any visible reason for it to be so goddamned stuck.. aside from being on the car for 17 years. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 16:43 on Apr 29, 2021 |
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Apr 29, 2021 16:40
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No and I'd 100% kill for one of these to open in my area. poo poo I had this idea when I was 8 years old. I'd happily pay 35bux an hour to make stuff take less time. My mechanical ability is limited to my access to the correct outlay of tools and at points of time my access to a lift. I've rebuilt engines, I've helped my father with a 100% body off restoration of a VW Karmen Ghia, I've been working on cars in some capacity for 30 years of my life. In the past 10 or so years it's been less exciting and is usually just routine maintinance since I have kids (limited funds and time) and limited driveway space. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 16:56 on Apr 29, 2021 |
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Apr 29, 2021 16:54
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Where in the northeast? I've got everything up to a 3/4 drive breaker bar and 4 feet of pipe, that bolt will either come out or break off.
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Apr 29, 2021 16:56
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Upstate Ny.. I'm trying to preserve the bolt.. nothing is more fun than drilling hardware out. although if it breaks I can just get a new caliper bracket it's not the end of the world.
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Apr 29, 2021 18:59
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Welp. Hit up harbor freight for their 3/4 breaker bar plus an adapter to half inch, then home depot for a long pipe to fit it, I'm in central Mass and it would cost either one of us more than the breaker bar in gas
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Apr 29, 2021 19:03
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kastein posted:Welp. Hit up harbor freight for their 3/4 breaker bar plus an adapter to half inch, then home depot for a long pipe to fit it, I'm in central Mass and it would cost either one of us more than the breaker bar in gas Right.. Hopefully the bolts aren't high up on the Kastein scale and a little PB and heat will be all the persuasion they need. If not plan on Sunday is to go get an HF Impact extension and breaker bar. and go to town. Like Ricky would say: "Worst case Ontario I break the bolt and need a new cablicker bracket"
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Apr 29, 2021 20:14
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tater_salad posted:Yeah I know WD40 is not to use. as a penetrating oil. I figured PB blaster was the right deal but it was not sure if some other miracle product was around.. Yes I have a torch to heat it up with as well but wanted to blast it for a few days beforehand. My fronts did not need this amout of work but were probably changed at some point prior to me owning the car. Dang, the axle nuts on that thing... Nice link, I like how that guy operates. drat funny when his daughter walks by and asks "is that car a piece of crap too?" lol
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Apr 29, 2021 20:29
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C-Bangin' it 
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Yeah nice decision by dodge to make the tone ring not a hub part. I love watching him he's pretty funny, one of his better videos is him replacing the radiator in his "woods jeep" cherokee at home in his little equipment barn and a handful of tools. At one point he realized he had no torch so to heat something up and get the bolts out he stuck it in his coal heater.
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Apr 29, 2021 20:41
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Colostomy Bag posted:Dang, the axle nuts on that thing... Eric O at South Main Auto is legit af and his YouTube channel is a pro sub
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Apr 29, 2021 20:52
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He's kind of a fascist though which is disappointing because it is a really good channel otherwise.
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Apr 29, 2021 21:36
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can't say I've heard him say anything fashy but I also listen / watch him while working so I'm not paying 100% to him. Like he'll say "jap cars" but he also shits on Jeeps and dodges, he shits on all vehicles.
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Apr 29, 2021 22:34
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