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Spanish Manlove posted:https://www.amazon.com/Butterfly-Kalolary-Paillettes-Holographic-Decoration%EF%BC%882/dp/B07YDM5HWH Definitely the right size! Would these be sturdy enough to hold up in 3D poses, though? To be more specific I'm planning on using them as basing elements, maybe hung from strings or mounted on clear plastic to make it seem like the model is chasing them, or landing on a Shredder's nose.
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Apr 30, 2021 01:00
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Does anyone have any resources for mixing paint/shading for blue uniforms? I'm having a lot of trouble
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Apr 30, 2021 01:50
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Printed and painted a dwarf priestess for a D&D for newbies game I'm running Feminine faces still don't feel super good to me. Just need to practice more, but overall I'm happy with the result!
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Apr 30, 2021 03:01
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I just got some JSI Insta-Set and it has changed my entire life
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Apr 30, 2021 14:29
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No. 1 Juicy Boi posted:I just got some JSI Insta-Set and it has changed my entire life Tell me more
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Apr 30, 2021 16:00
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Has anyone tried painting over the McFarlane artist proof figures? I'm wondering what primer to use, like if airbrushing stynlrez is good enough or if an auto primer would be better
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Apr 30, 2021 20:54
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Booyah- posted:Has anyone tried painting over the McFarlane artist proof figures? I'm wondering what primer to use, like if airbrushing stynlrez is good enough or if an auto primer would be better I painted mine, Stynlrez worked fine. The only problem I had was that there are a lot of mold lines which become really obvious after you prime it.
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Apr 30, 2021 21:05
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Bucnasti posted:Yeah watching review videos it looks like they could be used for priming. They're cheap so it's worth trying out. I'm strongly considering pulling the trigger on this one for priming and possibly zenithal mostly. Autolock Upgraded Airbrush Kit with Air Compressor But I'm wondering if I should just save up for a Badger and an actual air compressor at the end of the day.
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Apr 30, 2021 21:21
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Toebone posted:Tell me more You put a drop of it on one piece, and a drop of super glue on the other piece, hold them together for literally 3 seconds, and they're rock solid.
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Apr 30, 2021 21:58
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No. 1 Juicy Boi posted:You put a drop of it on one piece, and a drop of super glue on the other piece, hold them together for literally 3 seconds, and
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Apr 30, 2021 22:06
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so i made this ghost: and wasn't quite happy with it, so i added some color:  dang now it sucks. i think in hindsight i should have made the stones alot darker on the first one to make the OSL work better
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Apr 30, 2021 22:54
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I think it's improvement on the model even if it didn't work for the base
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Apr 30, 2021 22:59
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AndyElusive posted:I'm strongly considering pulling the trigger on this one for priming and possibly zenithal mostly. 89$CAD ? I thought they were less than half that. If you've got the space etc, an airbursh kit with compressor isn't much more than that.
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Apr 30, 2021 23:02
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   Printed and painted this halfling rogue for my D&D group. She's very small, and printed weirdly so the detail on her front isn't super well defined. I repainted her once already but I'm happy with the result. Unfortunately I put a Vallejo matte varnish on her and it slightly tinted her white, so I'm going to hold off on varnishing the other two models in the party. edit: you can see what I mean when you look at her next to another model.  
Verisimilidude fucked around with this message at 23:31 on Apr 30, 2021 |
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Apr 30, 2021 23:18
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Nebalebadingdong posted:so i made this ghost: I dont hate it. It doesnt look like the model is casting light on the base, that is true. But it does look like ectoplasm is coalescing out of the cracks and flowing up to form the ghosts body which is pretty cool in and of itself!
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May 1, 2021 00:06
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Bucnasti posted:89$CAD ? I know, especially when there's something like this available for $83.99CAD Gohelper Airbrush kit with Compressor
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May 1, 2021 00:11
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How do folks keep track of their piles of shame, when they painted particular miniatures, that kind of thing? I've been recording things in a spreadsheet for the last couple of years, and managed to recreate some of the data from the years before then based on dates I wrote on the bottom of bases and receipts in my inbox. I'd love to hear people's stats, like: what percentage of all the miniatures that you own have you actually painted? For me it's 34%. If you're interested, here's a few graphs that I've built from the spreadsheet I keep. The number of miniatures I painted in each month, adding to the total pile of painted miniatures:  Painted miniatures are now the single largest category, although that would change if I primed everything that is currently raw plastic or metal.  A miniature that I've bought directly from the shops is about twice as likely to get painted as one I picked up cheap from a convention. Old miniatures are those I had from when I last painted about 10 years ago. My tastes clearly haven't changed much because in raw numbers I've painted more of those than any other type.  Last year was the only considerable period where my pile of shame actually shrunk -- although a haul at the thrift shop this month wiped out a fair bit of that progress. 
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May 1, 2021 00:30
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I haven't gotten the foggiest about numbers but I have a google spreadsheet where I keep track of everything I've painted, bought and have in my backlog. Haven't really tried to make a graph out of the whole thing yet. So far, from about 2013 and onwards I've painted 185 models. Probably a bunch missing from that since a lot of it was retroactively added to the sheet. And I've got 178 models listed on my WIP list. Hell if I know about the percentage of that. v  v
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May 1, 2021 00:44
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I use Trello to keep track of my painting queue, and it's really nice for seeing a nice list of what you have painted up, complete with pictures if you want to do that. The way I use it it ends up looking like this: with a new board each year. Color codes for game system, a progress checklist for each project, all that good stuff. Living in Japan (and thus having very limited storage space) may be a factor, but my painted minis far outweigh my unpainted. My unpainted queue is currently at 30-odd 28mm models and some weapons for titanicus (well, to be fair, also an index-card-sized box of the start of a 6mm ancients project I never intend to finish), and I have cases and cases of painted stuff. I seem to be a very rare thing in this hobby, someone who actually more or less keeps to the "only buy new models when you've painted most of what you've got" lie we all tell.
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May 1, 2021 00:56
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I am admittedly incredibly bad at keeping myself to that as I'm always on the lookout for new models on auction sites and Facebook market groups. Mostly because I usually only want a single model or such and I don't have the funds to drop on a full box a lot of the time so I try to score as many deals I can. With relative success. Not to mention bits for kitbashes and conversions.
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May 1, 2021 01:02
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My mom found some Daler Rowney hard body acrylics in her craft closet and remembered that someone gave them to get a while ago even though she doesn't paint. So I now have a small paint set of hard body acrylics. Any tips or tricks with them? Like do you use them with a wet palette and just thin them down heavily while knowing they're still gonna be super opaque?
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May 1, 2021 01:44
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Sanglorian posted:How do folks keep track of their piles of shame  This would be a terrible thing for most hobbyists.
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May 1, 2021 04:23
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Spanish Manlove posted:My mom found some Daler Rowney hard body acrylics in her craft closet and remembered that someone gave them to get a while ago even though she doesn't paint. So I now have a small paint set of hard body acrylics. Any tips or tricks with them? Like do you use them with a wet palette and just thin them down heavily while knowing they're still gonna be super opaque? Just play around with them like they’re regular acrylics! Or use them like super opaque acrylics. They work both ways.
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May 1, 2021 04:36
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I have no visual imagination and must paint. Can anyone help me make a color scheme work, or tell me what won’t work, for my adeptus custodes? I’ve got them in bog standard retributor armor + reikland flesh gloss right now but I’m driving myself to anxiety trying to figure out the rest. Does this blue go with that gold? I want to do the bits that are usually stark red (pauldrons and plume) with it.  Would the metallic be too much? Also, the weapons. I saw a good video on how to do the energy effect for the standard teal on them. Anyone suggest what base/layer or contrasts or whatever I would use for red? Or if red would look awful, maybe purple? Apologies for the basic art level questions. I can’t see this stuff in my head, and I’m worried I’ll ruin a model if I just make a go at it and it sucks.
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May 1, 2021 04:45
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Verisimilidude posted:Just play around with them like they’re regular acrylics! Or use them like super opaque acrylics. They work both ways. Neat that's what I figured. I'll mess around with them soon and see how this windfall works.
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May 1, 2021 04:47
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Hey this page needs some skeletons to with the D&D party and spooky ghost. ‘Wanderer’ -A humble wandering skeleton merchant. Perhaps you would like to buy some bones?   ‘Ambidextrous Warrior’ -A (skeleton) farmer and a (skeleton) warrior.  
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May 1, 2021 07:02
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   Saspasia's Muckborn heading to battlefield. Gf did the green and I am insanely jealous how good they look. I did the purple, all of the weapons and drybushing undercoats. She did the gold bits, especially that bell...
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May 1, 2021 07:26
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I ride bikes all day posted:I have no visual imagination and must paint. Blue and gold can work as a pair of colours. Its kinda just metallic blue and yellow, and blue and yellow works on a lot of stuff. There is only one way to know if you'll like that specific blue with that specific gold though; Paint a figure and see how it looks. You can get an idea by painting a piece of sprue or something with the gold, then paint the blue next to it, but you wont really know til its on a figure. But I've never found a paint yet that is capable of "ruining" a model, if you hate it out loud you can always strip the paint back off that one test figure and paint it again, model is still fine. Have you any idea how many models that suck we've all painted in our time? Because it is, I guarantee you, a lot. And none of them were ruined, and no-one came and told us they sucked so badly we werent allowed to paint any more. Part of getting better is trying things that dont work, and either finding a way to make it work ("okay, if I shotgun all the armour with this black wash it'll look grimy but knock that brightness right back and tie the whole thing together a bit") or working out why it didnt work ("These colours together are an eye bleeding nightmare carnival. I'll bear that in mind and not use them as the 2 main colours on a figure in future. Unless I'm painting up a nightmare carnival of course. Anyway, I'll try this with a silver instead of gold next time"). If you are asking before you buy the blue metallic that is slightly different I suppose, but if you like the colour you'll find a use for it eventually even if you get it and it doesnt work for these particular figures, so if the cost of one pot of paint wont break the bank, I say go for it. Similarly with the energy effect; Without seeing the video I dont know that anyone can tell you exactly how to replicate it but red or purple, but try just following the steps but swapping out the teal colour they used for a bright red (or purple). Did they use a teal-sh contrast paint? Give the same techniques a try with blood angel red contrast (or I dunno, Shyish-purple or whatever). If they used regular paint, use regular paint, but red or orange instead of teal. If they used nihilahk oxide then I'm not sure there will be an exact 1:1 replacement because its a special effect paint and I'm not aware that there is a red equivalent, but give it a go with regular paint and see what it looks like! A blade is a small enough part (and not that detailed) so that if you gently caress it up you can almost certainly just get away with painting it back to your primer colour and having another go without having to strip it. If you are super worried about it, I'm not that familiar with modern GW kits; Did the models come with extra arm/weapon options on the sprues? They used to be pretty good for that. If so you can always get a spare arm holding a powersword or whatever, prime it and paint in your proposed scheme and see how it looks/practice the energy effect.
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May 1, 2021 10:47
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Like Squidmar(?) says, It's Just Plastic. If it didn't turn out well, you tried something, you learned, you dunk it in Simple Green (or whatever else) to reset and try again.
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May 1, 2021 10:49
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Eej posted:Like Squidmar(?) says, It's Just Plastic. If it didn't turn out well, you tried something, you learned, you dunk it in Simple Green (or whatever else) to reset and try again. Doncha have to get all the paint off and poo poo?
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May 1, 2021 12:13
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That's what the simple green does. Personally I keep around my models where the paint scheme doesn't quite work so I can have a little record of personal improvement, and also to remember what not to do.
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May 1, 2021 12:16
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Hey I tried out a glue/baking soda mix for a snow base, let it dry and primed it for painting; but the mixture seems like it's really easy to flake off. Is that a common problem and is there a good way to fix it?
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May 1, 2021 14:17
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StashAugustine posted:Hey I tried out a glue/baking soda mix for a snow base, let it dry and primed it for painting; but the mixture seems like it's really easy to flake off. Is that a common problem and is there a good way to fix it? You can put a coat of water and glue over the snow to kind of seal it.
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May 1, 2021 14:24
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SiKboy posted:Blue and gold can work as a pair of colours. Its kinda just metallic blue and yellow, and blue and yellow works on a lot of stuff. There is only one way to know if you'll like that specific blue with that specific gold though; Paint a figure and see how it looks. You can get an idea by painting a piece of sprue or something with the gold, then paint the blue next to it, but you wont really know til its on a figure. But I've never found a paint yet that is capable of "ruining" a model, if you hate it out loud you can always strip the paint back off that one test figure and paint it again, model is still fine. Have you any idea how many models that suck we've all painted in our time? Because it is, I guarantee you, a lot. And none of them were ruined, and no-one came and told us they sucked so badly we werent allowed to paint any more. Part of getting better is trying things that dont work, and either finding a way to make it work ("okay, if I shotgun all the armour with this black wash it'll look grimy but knock that brightness right back and tie the whole thing together a bit") or working out why it didnt work ("These colours together are an eye bleeding nightmare carnival. I'll bear that in mind and not use them as the 2 main colours on a figure in future. Unless I'm painting up a nightmare carnival of course. Anyway, I'll try this with a silver instead of gold next time"). Thank you. Got myself all caught in a loop and the anxiety was eating me alive. Didn't even think about using the spare bits as testing beds, which is a fantastic idea. I'll fiddle around with it and try to stay calmer.
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May 1, 2021 16:09
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StashAugustine posted:Hey I tried out a glue/baking soda mix for a snow base, let it dry and primed it for painting; but the mixture seems like it's really easy to flake off. Is that a common problem and is there a good way to fix it? You need wet water + diluted PVA. Marco Frisoni has a video using it for indestructible bases.
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May 1, 2021 23:49
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The Demilich posted:You need wet water + diluted PVA. Marco Frisoni has a video using it for indestructible bases. Hey that video's a great resource, thanks. Do you think it'd be better to add the glue on top of the primer, put a new batch on top of the current one, or try to clear the whole base off?
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May 2, 2021 00:54
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The Demilich posted:wet water Do I just boil it into a concentrate?
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May 2, 2021 01:35
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poo poo I've been using dry water all this time
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May 2, 2021 01:45
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I don't know if I mentioned it here but the art contests at my LGS will give out store credit prizes to the top third of the entries (IE if 12 people enter then the top 4 get it). I only learned about this when I went to pick up paint and they asked if I wanted to use store credit as apparently my mammoth won last time. Pretty loving stoked about that. Also I'm pretty drat stoked because this month's entry also won. There's a lot I could have done differently and better on this guy but my main focus of this was to try to create a scenic base. I'm trying to step outside my boundaries in terms of techniques on each one of these, and I've never worked with foam before or really painted skin before so I'm happy with how I did on those. Next competition I'm going to try NMM, also pick a smaller model to go for quality not quantity. Photo credit to my LGS: 
Spanish Manlove fucked around with this message at 04:37 on May 2, 2021 |
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May 2, 2021 03:55
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30k xpost ya'llMajor Spag posted:Blood Angel IXth Legion Assault squad. This is the last five out of a squad of 15.
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May 2, 2021 04:05
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