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El Mero Mero
Oct 13, 2001

toplitzin posted:

I've got a couple of these in bedrooms/offices around the house:
Westinghouse Lighting 7234100 Comet Indoor Ceiling Fan with Light

And Lutron Maestro fan controllers for each (i got mine for cheap b/c i got some fun colors)
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Maestro-Incandescent-Single-Pole-MACL-LFQ-WH/dp/B077XDB8FV

Edit: to be clear, the Maestro's are not remotely required, but purely so I don't have to pull the chain.. The other features are nice too, but most days the fan stays set somewhere in the medium range and just gets turned on and off.

Awesome. I just installed a fan and i absolutely hate the remote and it's all built in to the module. Hopefully I can use that lutron controller to get something better going. Anyone have a recommendation for a universal remote? The one that came with my fan is glitchy af.

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nm
Jan 28, 2008

"I saw Minos the Space Judge holding a golden sceptre and passing sentence upon the Martians. There he presided, and around him the noble Space Prosecutors sought the firm justice of space law."

BigPaddy posted:

Recently move across country using PODS. Used a 16x8x8 container. Had three truckloads of crap hauled way, gave away tons of stuff, donated others including food we were not going to use. Sold all the cars apart from one we drove across the country in with the dogs and one that has no value apart to me as a project.

Just repeating that you need to declutter, that ikea furniture? Won’t make it anyway. 10 year old TV that might get broken? New 43” tv is like $200. If you are selling then it makes it easier to sell if you have cleared the place out as well.

All in all I probably spent $2k on junk removal and clean up in the house, $4k moving the pod 2700 miles and $1500 on work done to the house to make it look better.

I also got movers both ends to pack and unpack the pod because it would just be me doing it and didn’t want to be lifting beds and stuff up and down tight stairs by myself.

I've moved my Ektorp and other stuff 3 times, including 1 across the country move. Held up fine.
If all you have to move in Ikea stuff, or moving it will cost more than the stuff is worth sell/trash it, but I only used 1 pod per move, so trowing everything in cost nothing more.

Re: fan chat. It is obscenely overpriced if not on sale but my Rejuvenation Heron looks pretty awesome in my 1920s house. It's also quiet, moves a ton of air, and has no remote. It has pull chains. The only annoying thing is it comes with 2 pull chains even if you don't have a light.

Phil Moscowitz
Feb 19, 2007

If blood be the price of admiralty,
Lord God, we ha' paid in full!
Man I have two antique cast iron fans that perform fantastically, big blade span and quiet and push tons of air on three settings...and my wife just complains that they have pullchains for each of the four light bulbs, and a switch in the housing to control the speed that she can’t reach without using the (tailor made) rod, and she wants a remote and a “sleek modern” replacement that’s going to have cardboard blades and Chinese garbage parts.

BigPaddy
Jun 30, 2008

That night we performed the rite and opened the gate.
Halfway through, I went to fix us both a coke float.
By the time I got back, he'd gone insane.
Plus, he'd left the gate open and there was evil everywhere.


Retro fit a remote?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Phil Moscowitz posted:

Man I have two antique cast iron fans that perform fantastically, big blade span and quiet and push tons of air on three settings...and my wife just complains that they have pullchains for each of the four light bulbs, and a switch in the housing to control the speed that she can’t reach without using the (tailor made) rod, and she wants a remote and a “sleek modern” replacement that’s going to have cardboard blades and Chinese garbage parts.

That's a simple minor re-wire and a $30 remote.

Phil Moscowitz
Feb 19, 2007

If blood be the price of admiralty,
Lord God, we ha' paid in full!
Oh yeah?? Simple minor rewire will turn this




...into a modern silver thing with an un-replaceable 4000k single LED light that I hate blah blah?

It’s more than the fans. I’m losing the wood trim (WHITE EVERYTHING WHITE except the beams thank god) and the fans “don’t match the aesthetic” and...look, I think I’m going to “win” on this part of the renovation but it involved adding recessed lighting and I’ll still probably hear about it forever.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

I mean, I'm obviously just talking about being able to control fan speeds and turn all the lights on or off at the same time using a remote.

But I get that you're cranked up about this. I was suggesting a middle ground compromise that might work for both of you.

Phil Moscowitz
Feb 19, 2007

If blood be the price of admiralty,
Lord God, we ha' paid in full!

Motronic posted:

I mean, I'm obviously just talking about being able to control fan speeds and turn all the lights on or off at the same time using a remote.

I know.

Motronic posted:

But I get that you're cranked up about this. I was suggesting a middle ground compromise that might work for both of you.

It’s a good suggestion and will probably help smooth things a little.

Queen Victorian
Feb 21, 2018

That's a sweet fan and I don't know why anyone would want to replace it with a fake brushed nickelchinesium fan. Like others have said, you can always rewire cool old stuff (or even electrify even older cool stuff like oil lamps) so they work for our modern needs. I have used antique ceiling light fixtures where each bulb has its own pull chain and they can be super annoying (especially when each bulb is hanging on its own chain - goddammit stop wobbling!!), but my first thought would just be to rewire them so I could operate all the bulbs with one switch, not like, replace it with plastic trash.

Phil Moscowitz posted:

It’s more than the fans. I’m losing the wood trim (WHITE EVERYTHING WHITE except the beams thank god) and the fans “don’t match the aesthetic” and...look, I think I’m going to “win” on this part of the renovation but it involved adding recessed lighting and I’ll still probably hear about it forever.

Uh, seems like you're not too happy with the renovation... Though honestly I don't know what the gently caress I'd do if my husband wanted to paint everything white and get basic-rear end ceiling fans. Thank god he's on board with my hardcore moody Victorian restoration plans. I do not envy you.

Still though, those fans would look just as killer in an all-white interior (and far better than any contemporary Home Depot crap) and would add contrast and help make the space feel sophisticated and unique instead of HGTV-basic.

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



BonoMan posted:

This seems like a possible unexpectedly good place to ask this:

We are moving in a couple of months and:
a.) I will shortly have a post asking some advice on some specific small scale home fixes. I went around and took pics of all things I want done.
b.) but first I was wondering if there is just some general advice out there.

I recently got a job in NC and moving from MS. I'm currently working my job remotely. I'll be moving (with no moving assistance unfortunately) us in a couple of months.

1900 sqft home. 3bed/2ba - kind of your average home. Don't have tons of junk (our attics are empty) but with very little down time and needing to get to an apartment (wont' be able to buy a house until we get there given the insane market) it's getting hard to figure out where the hell to even start.

Right now we're looking at getting 3 of the UHaul "UPack" pods and set them up for the month of June. We'll pack non-apartment essentials into those and then get a 17" or less (hopefully) truck delivered right at the end to pack the stuff we'll need into an apartment and then take off from there. But it's just like... really loving easy to get overwhelmed and not know where to start. With two kids and zero family/friends support in the area... we have very little time.

So just wondering if anybody did anything like this recently and had any "oh I wish I had known this when I did it" pieces of advice.

Thanks now I gotta go breath into a paper bag.
Lots of good advice so far, and now I don't know how much stuff you're fitting into that 1900sqft house right now but I moved all of our stuff in a 27' uhaul truck (no appliances or sofa but had a gun safe and some other big furniture pieces). Home depot boxes small/med/large were worth the money for easy stacking IMO. I staged in my garage like another goon to allow for easy packing and sorting over a few weeks pre-move day.

I also used a free trial of this: https://s1.easycargo3d.com/ and measured all our poo poo and made a loading plan for the truck that I mostly followed. Had friends and family help on the loading end and then hired some movers for the unload.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
Those fans are ballin. You could shine up the brass work and maybe refinish the blades if they're real wood. If you really do take them down try to sell them, I think they're pretty sweet.

devmd01
Mar 7, 2006

Elektronik
Supersonik
Whoever started the trend of painting over perfectly good wood trim with white paint needs to be slapped something fierce.

Phil Moscowitz
Feb 19, 2007

If blood be the price of admiralty,
Lord God, we ha' paid in full!

Queen Victorian posted:

Uh, seems like you're not too happy with the renovation... Though honestly I don't know what the gently caress I'd do if my husband wanted to paint everything white and get basic-rear end ceiling fans. Thank god he's on board with my hardcore moody Victorian restoration plans. I do not envy you.

Still though, those fans would look just as killer in an all-white interior (and far better than any contemporary Home Depot crap) and would add contrast and help make the space feel sophisticated and unique instead of HGTV-basic.

Overall it’s a fantastic renovation. This is one of the few areas she and I disagree :)

Which is probably why it’s so frustrating!

She would replace it with something better than Hampton Bay or whatever, probably some kind of Minka which I do like in a vacuum. I just think these fans are cool and much better quality than anything new under like $750 each, and seems criminal to get rid of them.

Anyway, we’re 1.5 months out of our house and it’s starting to get old so I’m probably just cranky.

BadSamaritan
May 2, 2008

crumb by crumb in this big black forest


devmd01 posted:

Whoever started the trend of painting over perfectly good wood trim with white paint needs to be slapped something fierce.

Agreed. A previous owner did this with the wood trim in our house (probably to save money on some reno costs) and it will be too much in the foreseeable future to scrape all the white paint out of the nicely carved trim and replace the cheap stuff they were hoping to gloss over.

iv46vi
Apr 2, 2010
If it’s cheap white paint it would be an easy job for chemical stripper. Masking in place could be hard but then you’d have for refinish anyways.

falz
Jan 29, 2005

01100110 01100001 01101100 01111010

Bobulus posted:

Hey, anyone have any idea why a towel rod would be entombed in the wall of my home?

I was planning to mount a new medicine cabinet inside a wall to replace the lovely one that was mounted on the outside of the wall. So I cut a small hole to see what I was dealing with.



First, I found some existing framing that's really weird. But when I stuck a hand up under that double-2x4 there, I found that the lower one is actually like a 2x2, and behind it, balanced on the stud, is a square towel rod. It couldn't have gotten there by accident; Pinned in the middle above and below, and at the ends by the studs in the wall, the only way to remove it was to cut away the 2x4.

In addition, I found another 2x4 mounted above my hole, and another 2x2 mounted further down in the wall, about at the height of the countertop of the sink. Here, the vertical stud hasn't been removed, it was just notched to insert the 2x2.



I have no loving clue what was here. The framed area is too small for a medicine cabinet, and I don't know what else you'd inset in a bathroom wall like this. Why a towel rod????????

Weird, what year is this place?

This almost looks to me like it was framed in for something else previously - what's on the other side of that wall? It's not insulated so I'll presume it's interior.

It looks like actual drywall (not plaster) so if it's earlier than idk, the 60s(?) they must've gutted it and redone it with drywall, so perhaps some legacy thing with a different configuration.

PremiumSupport
Aug 17, 2015

Sirotan posted:

Got this: https://smile.amazon.com/Honeywell-TH6110D1005-FocusPRO-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000UQ2GCY/



You can program it but I've been too lazy to do so. Turn it down when I got to bed, turn it up when I wake up. No wifi, no bluetooth. Works good, would recommend.

Late to the thermostat chat from a few pages ago.

I have one of these (branded to the name of the company that installed my furnace, but it's exactly the same otherwise) and my only complaint about it is that it doesn't automatically switch from heating to cooling. I live in the cold belt (MN) and it's not uncommon to come home from work in the spring or fall and find it to be 90 degrees in the house due to solar heating through my windows, with the thermostat also set to "heat" because it dropped below 40 outside the night before.

Is there a programmable thermostat I can swap with that does this? I don't need wifi or any other "smart" features, just the ability to recognize that it's getting hot in the house and switch modes.

Blowjob Overtime
Apr 6, 2008

Steeeeriiiiiiiiike twooooooo!

PremiumSupport posted:

Late to the thermostat chat from a few pages ago.

I have one of these (branded to the name of the company that installed my furnace, but it's exactly the same otherwise) and my only complaint about it is that it doesn't automatically switch from heating to cooling. I live in the cold belt (MN) and it's not uncommon to come home from work in the spring or fall and find it to be 90 degrees in the house due to solar heating through my windows, with the thermostat also set to "heat" because it dropped below 40 outside the night before.

Is there a programmable thermostat I can swap with that does this? I don't need wifi or any other "smart" features, just the ability to recognize that it's getting hot in the house and switch modes.

I know there are thermostats that do have wifi and other "smart" features that will do it, if you're willing to pay for the extra poo poo to get that functionality. Also in MN, this is what was included with our furnace/AC install about five years ago (by Snelling Heating and Cooling, who did a very good job and I would recommend): https://www.lennox.com/products/comfort-controls/thermostats/icomfortwi-fi

You can set it for heat, cool, or heat and cool. One of the pictures on that site you can see its says "heat to X, cool to Y".

PremiumSupport
Aug 17, 2015

Blowjob Overtime posted:

I know there are thermostats that do have wifi and other "smart" features that will do it, if you're willing to pay for the extra poo poo to get that functionality. Also in MN, this is what was included with our furnace/AC install about five years ago (by Snelling Heating and Cooling, who did a very good job and I would recommend): https://www.lennox.com/products/comfort-controls/thermostats/icomfortwi-fi

You can set it for heat, cool, or heat and cool. One of the pictures on that site you can see its says "heat to X, cool to Y".

Thanks for that. It's good to know that there are thermostats that do have the functionality. Now the trick will be finding one that works with my system. I'm guessing that I need a Honeywell as the original system came with a rebranded Honeywell.

The original installers were Laney's, up in the Fargo area. Very happy with the install and service, only real complaint is the thermostat.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

PremiumSupport posted:

Thanks for that. It's good to know that there are thermostats that do have the functionality. Now the trick will be finding one that works with my system. I'm guessing that I need a Honeywell as the original system came with a rebranded Honeywell.

The original installers were Laney's, up in the Fargo area. Very happy with the install and service, only real complaint is the thermostat.

Almost any new non-smart thermostat should have a heat and cool feature and you don't need anything special. That's a super basic thermostat that can be replaced with any other standard thermostat.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
My Fujitsu Halcyon minisplit comes with "auto changeover" which will switch mode if the temperature drifts +/- 4F from the set point. Seems like just what you want.

PremiumSupport
Aug 17, 2015
Doing a bit of research (slow day at work) it seems that my existing thermostat may have that feature and it's just disabled, assuming it is just a rebranded TH6000 series. Will have to experiment a bit when I get home.

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.
FYI typically that feature will enforce a minimum difference between the heat/cool set points. I think it's typically 3 degrees or something. This is to prevent it from triggering itself back and forth in an endless cycle of heating/cooling.

edit: point being read the manual. This may require you to reprogram your setpoints if they're too close together, which sucks if you've already gone through and programmed a bunch of schedules.

DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 21:26 on May 4, 2021

PremiumSupport
Aug 17, 2015

DaveSauce posted:

FYI typically that feature will enforce a minimum difference between the heat/cool set points. I think it's typically 3 degrees or something. This is to prevent it from triggering itself back and forth in an endless cycle of heating/cooling.

edit: point being read the manual. This may require you to reprogram your setpoints if they're too close together, which sucks if you've already gone through and programmed a bunch of schedules.

Yeah, assuming it's a rebranded TH6000, the set points are 3 degrees apart. Reprogramming isn't a real issue. It's a weekday + Sat + Sun unit, so there's only 3 schedules to rework and mine are pretty simple. I like it cold at night and comfortable during the day. I'm also not overly concerned with manipulating temperatures when I'm not home to shave a few bucks off my utility bill. This system has already more than halved my utility bills from before it was installed.

Apparently there's a step that got missed in the install (again assuming it's a TH6000) where the installer should have gone into the back-end settings and enabled the auto option which is disabled by default. The note in the installation manual says "Enable when installed in climates where both heating and cooling may be desirable on the same day." I now have instructions printed off on exactly how to do that.

Pigsfeet on Rye
Oct 22, 2008

I'm meat on the hoof

devmd01 posted:

Whoever started the trend of painting over perfectly good wood trim with white paint needs to be slapped something fierce.

Yeah, I get sad when I see really nicely formed woodwork painted over in black, white, or grey.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Is there like a sous-vide thing I can get for my bathtub to keep the water warm? Or are heated tubs without jets a thing? Like a big electric blanket or radiant heating thing on the outside of the tub? My current tub has jets and apparently I could maybe add an inline heater to heat the water as it recirculates? But they current basic pump is broken and I wish there was a way to remove the jets because all they do is grow mildew.

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


I mean a sous vide circulator isn't the worst idea.
Sure a bathtub is higher than it's max capacity, but it's already warm and just helping slow the chill a little. I doubt it would burn out over the hour or so this spend in a staying warm bath.

iv46vi
Apr 2, 2010
Propane or mapp torch on the outside if the tub is cast iron. Don’t use a brûlée torch, that’s more for searing.

BigPaddy
Jun 30, 2008

That night we performed the rite and opened the gate.
Halfway through, I went to fix us both a coke float.
By the time I got back, he'd gone insane.
Plus, he'd left the gate open and there was evil everywhere.


Pod arrived today and of course stuff has shifted so I had to break a jack out with and extension bar to get under the door and lift it up past the obstacles. Movers will unload it tomorrow and then we will see how much of the crap we brought with us never gets unboxed :v:

Vintersorg
Mar 3, 2004

President of
the Brendan Fraser
Fan Club



Heat up some some stones.

https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Stones-E...20271491&sr=8-3

~Coxy
Dec 9, 2003

R.I.P. Inter-OS Sass - b.2000AD d.2003AD

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Is there like a sous-vide thing I can get for my bathtub to keep the water warm? Or are heated tubs without jets a thing? Like a big electric blanket or radiant heating thing on the outside of the tub? My current tub has jets and apparently I could maybe add an inline heater to heat the water as it recirculates? But they current basic pump is broken and I wish there was a way to remove the jets because all they do is grow mildew.

I've always thought it was stupid that spas don't have a heater that's not in the jet circuit.
It's a never-ending struggle between filling it up overly-hot to begin with, and putting up with running the jets when you don't really want them to maintain water temp.

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

toplitzin posted:

I mean a sous vide circulator isn't the worst idea.
Sure a bathtub is higher than it's max capacity, but it's already warm and just helping slow the chill a little. I doubt it would burn out over the hour or so this spend in a staying warm bath.

I have used a sous vide circulator to warm up a bath in an apartment with a woefully undersized water heater. The only way to do it is to clip it to something that spans the tub, and you'll have to do some shenanigans when it comes to water level. It's ridiculously dangerous and takes forever.

This should go without saying but don't loving get in the tub with that thing in there, you're asking to get electrocuted. They're not designed to be completely submerged and your big goony body will raise the water level more than you expect.

~Coxy posted:

I've always thought it was stupid that spas don't have a heater that's not in the jet circuit.
It's a never-ending struggle between filling it up overly-hot to begin with, and putting up with running the jets when you don't really want them to maintain water temp.

the jets circulate the water. How would the water get heated otherwise?

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


Our bathtub system is integrated with the water heater, and can add extra hot water, maintain temperature and reheat cold water (while I'm taking a shower immediately next to the tub :japan:)

Here's a before/after installing a Toto Sazana prefab shower/bath with an Eco Cute style water heater.
https://www.watn.co.jp/2018-6-22furo/

stealie72
Jan 10, 2007
When I was a single man living in a 1920s vintage apartment building, I used to sit in the tub and watch movies on my laptop. My method of keeping the water warm was opening the drain and turning the hot water on for a bit every once in a while. This could usually be accomplished with a foot and required far less effort than anything discussed above.

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


peanut posted:

Our bathtub system is integrated with the water heater, and can add extra hot water, maintain temperature and reheat cold water (while I'm taking a shower immediately next to the tub :japan:)

Here's a before/after installing a Toto Sazana prefab shower/bath with an Eco Cute style water heater.
https://www.watn.co.jp/2018-6-22furo/

I've seen those Japanese style tubs with integrated heat control and all sorts of functions. Are they available in any form in the US?

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


Heckin maybe!
https://www.eco2waterheater.com/product-info

Phil Moscowitz
Feb 19, 2007

If blood be the price of admiralty,
Lord God, we ha' paid in full!
Just take a shower OP

PremiumSupport
Aug 17, 2015

PremiumSupport posted:

Yeah, assuming it's a rebranded TH6000, the set points are 3 degrees apart. Reprogramming isn't a real issue. It's a weekday + Sat + Sun unit, so there's only 3 schedules to rework and mine are pretty simple. I like it cold at night and comfortable during the day. I'm also not overly concerned with manipulating temperatures when I'm not home to shave a few bucks off my utility bill. This system has already more than halved my utility bills from before it was installed.

Apparently there's a step that got missed in the install (again assuming it's a TH6000) where the installer should have gone into the back-end settings and enabled the auto option which is disabled by default. The note in the installation manual says "Enable when installed in climates where both heating and cooling may be desirable on the same day." I now have instructions printed off on exactly how to do that.

Update to this:

It was indeed a rebranded TH6000 series, and the back-end code worked. No more 90 degree house when I get home from work! :neckbeard:

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

peanut posted:

Our bathtub system is integrated with the water heater, and can add extra hot water, maintain temperature and reheat cold water (while I'm taking a shower immediately next to the tub :japan:)

Here's a before/after installing a Toto Sazana prefab shower/bath with an Eco Cute style water heater.
https://www.watn.co.jp/2018-6-22furo/

Every time you post a Japanese bathroom I'm just enraged. Having the shower with a bench and bath right there is so nice.

What's the thing that looks like a folding table on the wall opposite the showerhead in the finished pics?

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Vintersorg
Mar 3, 2004

President of
the Brendan Fraser
Fan Club



Should a HRV be good enough for a washroom? I've taken a few showers in my new place and with the system on by pressing the wall switch - it still gets insanely steamy. I can hear it working but it feels like at my FIL's, my old house, even my apartment the fan kept the mirrors and area generally steam free. Should I be worried? Do I need to set a speed on the device by my furnace?

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