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Krakkles posted:If I were doing that repair, Id use some safety wire and a Clamptite. As bulletproof as a gear clamp, without any possible balance issues. drat! That looks dope as gently caress!
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May 8, 2021 01:09
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Action Man posted:Thanks everyone from talking me through this. Do we think a zip tie is sufficient? or should I go buy one of those clamp tools? Personally, I'd return it. It's defective in a way that will lead to premature failure. You spent the extra on an OE part to be SURE it was the exact right part. Krakkles posted:If you use zip-ties, dont trim the ends You're evil, in the best kind of way. Reminds me, one of my neighbors just pissed me the hell off (LOUD fight outside).... their Rogue is parked outside and they're going on a ~1000 mile road trip tomorrow. 
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May 8, 2021 18:03
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Super Waffle posted:I need reasons to not buy a Fiat 124 Spider. Everything I find online says it's a slower miata but looks nicer. They look amazing, I love Mazdas, and they're cheap as hell because they're about to go out of production. Please tell me there's some terrible secret to owning one of these, because lord help me I'm too young to want a completely impractical midlife crisis mobile. I own one. It's much better than the Miata, imo. It's slower off the line, but much quicker at speed. The 1.4 MA doesn't have much grunt below 2000 rpm, but once the turbo kicks in, it kicks rear end. C&D's Lightning Lap showed the difference. The 124 beat the Miata by 4 seconds, but the secret was to keep the kettle on the boil. I've found I spend a lot of time in 3rd gear on twisties to keep the revs up. It's a blast to drive. You won't regret buying one.
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May 8, 2021 19:01
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STR posted:Personally, I'd return it. It's defective in a way that will lead to premature failure. You spent the extra on an OE part to be SURE it was the exact right part. Go find some extra wheel weights. Randomly place a few on one of their wheels.
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May 8, 2021 19:46
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Deteriorata posted:I own one. It's much better than the Miata, imo. It's slower off the line, but much quicker at speed. They are super appealing. I would never have predicted my troublesome Golf could become a Fiat, but I'm considering it. The ND2 I drove was cool too though. Just a little too blinged out in the pearl white. nitsuga fucked around with this message at 20:15 on May 8, 2021 |
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May 8, 2021 20:00
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Any idea what these black drips are under my car? It's way too watery to be oil, and it seemingly only happens on a cold start. They're also kind of all over the place, where oil would likely drip into a puddle in a single location. 2018 Dodge Challenger Hellcat. Everything relevant is stock.
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May 9, 2021 00:20
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Strife posted:Any idea what these black drips are under my car? It's way too watery to be oil, and it seemingly only happens on a cold start. They're also kind of all over the place, where oil would likely drip into a puddle in a single location. The hell is leaking out
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May 9, 2021 00:33
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nitsuga posted:They are super appealing. I would never have predicted my troublesome Golf could become a Fiat, but I'm considering it. The ND2 I drove was cool too though. Just a little too blinged out in the pearl white. I don't know what the AI consensus is on Jack Baruth these days but his latest article on Hagerty addresses precisely this https://www.hagerty.com/media/opini...-the-worse-one/
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May 9, 2021 01:42
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tactlessbastard posted:The hell is leaking out My guess would be condensation from the exhaust mixed with exhaust soot. Do you have anything that sounds like an exhaust leak.
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May 9, 2021 03:07
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Bajaha posted:My guess would be condensation from the exhaust mixed with exhaust soot. Do you have anything that sounds like an exhaust leak. Not really, but the exhaust is pretty loud, its hard to hear anything over the startup. Theres no obvious leak sounds when under spirited acceleration.
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May 9, 2021 03:13
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Bit of a moonshot, and I don't even know if this is a thing, but is there a service or Turo-like app that specializes in classic car rentals? We're looking to borrow something for a wedding in November similar to an older Bentley or Rolls. Haven't had much luck in the Portland OR area since one guy who rented a RR for this type of work moved to Montana, and the other guy isn't returning our calls.
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May 9, 2021 04:07
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Search up antique and classic car sites, particularly their forums, join & post your query there. We tend to be egomaniacs insofar as we enjoy displaying our cars, but there is also a strain of friendly human nature there, and you may not have too much trouble finding someone willing to chauffeur your nuptials - or point you to a service / person that will.
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May 9, 2021 13:27
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Update on my electrical problems on my S10. I figured out the problem. Since EU cars, or at least cars in Sweden, need to have orange indicators separate from the tail lights, the dealer must have installed tail lights when it came here... only they did the wiring under the frame. So there are separate wires outside the loom going to the tail lights. Either that or some PO messed with it. Also, I have a question about seat bolts. The S10 has 3 bolts that stick up from the floor that hold the seat down with nuts. There is then a torx screw that bolts into the floor. This was seized into the floor on the passenger side, with no hope of getting it out. Drilling got me about half way, but no more. I decided to try something else and filled most of the hole up by filling it with weld. I then took a bolt and cut of the head and welded it in. The bolt was about 1/5 into the hole, with enough space to fill in pretty thick with weld around in. Seems super solid. Is this super no bueno, or acceptable? If not I won't use the passenger seat until I fix it in some other way. Not used it anyway with 3 out of 4 bolts in. Wanted to try something and do some welding (that I discovered is fun as hell). Another option could perhaps be cutting the bolt off and drill and tap into where bolt and weld is and then fit the factory bolt? MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 17:12 on May 9, 2021 |
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May 9, 2021 17:07
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Does anyone know if ABS stops working if the engine is off? Someone pulled out in front of me in my (manual) 2005 honda accord and I hit the brakes so hard it caused the engine to stall. The ABS cut in and the stopped working at least for a split second, maybe because I went from asphalt to a brick crosswalk, caused my tires to squeal. I know that the brake booster probly lost vacuum, idk if that affects ABS
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May 10, 2021 05:37
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It was probably the transition from asphalt to brick. ABS doesn't rely on your brake booster at all, it uses an electric pump (though the pump pulls a shitload of [electrical] power). Also, try to make a habit of hitting the clutch if you have to panic brake in the future. Without clutching in, every time the ABS pulses, it's spinning your engine a little at a time. I don't know how bad it is for the engine, but it doesn't seem ideal (plus you wind up with a stalled engine once you come to a stop). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:40 on May 10, 2021 |
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May 10, 2021 08:37
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I was taught to always slam with both feet when making an emergency stop. (Clutch & brake obv) Not necessarily to save on the engine or anything, but to make sure it doesn't stall should you need to gun it to swerve afterwards or something like that.
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May 10, 2021 11:18
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I'm going to be plumbing my heater core back into my cooling system after having it disconnected for 9 years since it'll need it to get modification plates. It's the non-ac heater core in my 78 fairmont xc, with a cable driven heater tap, nothing special. The only thing I can't find is the way the pipes are supposed to be routed with the heater tap. Just wanted to see if anyone has any points on why it would really matter which way it goes back together, I was planning on just throwing it back together with the heater hoses going to whatever is the closest to the core outlet/heater tap.
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May 10, 2021 12:19
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I don't think it really matters, so long as hot water go in one pipe & come out the other. Just another one of the blessings of older cars. I would flush out the heater core first, both to clear it of accumulated debris, and make sure it's not leaking inside the cabin. You can rig a garden hose to one side and run it through. Start by cracking open the water to avoid excessive pressure...it should be able to take it, but you want to be sure it's intact first.
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May 10, 2021 13:35
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Figured that would be the case, thanks! Forgot to mention, the reason I didn't have it connected is because it was leaking in the passengers foot well. I'll be picking up a new one and giving the whole heater box a clean up.
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May 10, 2021 13:47
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It's hard to tell from any of the images I could find, but it looks like the line from the water pump might go to the bottom feed.
PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 14:03 on May 10, 2021 |
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May 10, 2021 13:58
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In my continuing search for a fourth-gen Dart, I found a '73 that's a decent price ($5K) and looks nice from the pictures. When the seller said it had transmission issues though ("doesn't shift right" when cold, works perfectly when warm) I immediately said no thanks. But after a quick internet search, it seems this is sometimes just a thing with old TorqueFlites that not everbody knows about? Painter Of Crap can probably tell me whether this sounds right. Supposedly the transmission fluid doesn't flow while the car's in Park, so if you don't let the car warm up in Neutral you can run into problems? Maybe I shouldn't have written it off so quickly. Of course it's at the edge of my search area, about 250 miles away, so it's not easy to just swing by and check it out. Side note, I'm hopefully going to see a '69 this week that's less than an hour away and only $3500. The guy swapped the 225 Slant 6 to a 318 V8, but he also says he installed a manual valve body to use a floor-mounted ratchet shifter? Oh, and he stole the rear brakes for another project, too. I think I'd rather have the unmolested '73, if the transmission issues aren't as bad as I thought.
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May 10, 2021 14:54
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Butt Reactor posted:Bit of a moonshot, and I don't even know if this is a thing, but is there a service or Turo-like app that specializes in classic car rentals? We're looking to borrow something for a wedding in November similar to an older Bentley or Rolls. Haven't had much luck in the Portland OR area since one guy who rented a RR for this type of work moved to Montana, and the other guy isn't returning our calls. Hagerty Driveshare is the closest thing to what you're asking for.
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May 10, 2021 15:00
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Brettbot posted:In my continuing search for a fourth-gen Dart, I found a '73 that's a decent price ($5K) and looks nice from the pictures. When the seller said it had transmission issues though ("doesn't shift right" when cold, works perfectly when warm) I immediately said no thanks. But after a quick internet search, it seems this is sometimes just a thing with old TorqueFlites that not everbody knows about? Painter Of Crap can probably tell me whether this sounds right. Supposedly the transmission fluid doesn't flow while the car's in Park, so if you don't let the car warm up in Neutral you can run into problems? Maybe I shouldn't have written it off so quickly. Of course it's at the edge of my search area, about 250 miles away, so it's not easy to just swing by and check it out. That doesn't sound right...however, the symptoms may be due to a clogged transmission filter BUT there's no way to tell without pulling the filter. What I would suggest is going to see it, making sure to tell the seller that you want to see it cold (as in, not started yet that day) and see what he means by "not shifting right" by test-driving it. Before that, though, check the trans fluid level & condition on the dipstick. When cold, the fluid may read extremely high, and the fluid should be bright red. OK if used & it shows a darker red, but it should not be cloudy or opaque. If it's really dark, or brown, you're gonna need a trans rebuild or replacement (the transmission may be quite cheap. They are quite robust, in spite of this experience) Drive itm get it warmed up, see what the issues are. If it won't shift out of second gear, the kickdown is shot & you need a rebuild. After the drive, check the transmission fluid again, while the engine is running. I believe it may have to be in "D". Should be etched into the dipstick. If the color's OK and the level is good, it should be a dirty filter. Not a guarantee. *** I would go with the most unmolested one you can find. If you like Car#1 and the trans remains a pig in a poke, you could ask owner of Car#2 if he still has the transmission. The A-904 Torqueflite behind a six can't be used with a V-8 - that takes a 727TF. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 18:26 on May 10, 2021 |
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May 10, 2021 18:23
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PainterofCrap posted:I would go with the most unmolested one you can find. If you like Car#1 and the trans remains a pig in a poke, you could ask owner of Car#2 if he still has the transmission. The A-904 Torqueflite behind a six can't be used with a V-8 - that takes a 727TF. Ah, wait, you raise a good point.The '69 with the 318 supposedly has a 904 in it. I was thinking 6=727, 8=904 but that's not right at all. I'll have to message the seller again and see if he swapped the transmission or if it still has the old one in it. Edit: Hmm, he said it was originally a Slant 6 car, and he says it's the original 904, but he also says it's the right bell housing for a small block V8. Brettbot fucked around with this message at 19:59 on May 10, 2021 |
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May 10, 2021 18:45
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My sister has a 2005 Ford Focus ZX5 with the 2.0l Zetec. Talked to her today and she said she gets around 24 mpg with it. Is it just me, or is that pretty low? She's a good driver, definitely doesn't drive like a maniac or anything and the car doesn't have any codes. Checked some of the more obvious potential causes (tires, air filter, etc.) And nothing else is jumping out at me. Is this just something to expect from a 16 year old car?
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May 10, 2021 23:24
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the zetec was rated at 22/29/25 from the factory so 24 seems extremely plausible
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May 10, 2021 23:26
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I have a ZX2, which is a somewhat lighter car than the Focus ZX5, with the same Zetec 2.0L and a manual transmission, and I get about 27 mpg average and ~32 if the entire tank was on the highway. If she's only driving around town, getting 24mpg from the same engine in a heavier car with an automatic sounds about right. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 23:47 on May 10, 2021 |
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May 10, 2021 23:44
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Brettbot posted:Ah, wait, you raise a good point.The '69 with the 318 supposedly has a 904 in it. I was thinking 6=727, 8=904 but that's not right at all. I'll have to message the seller again and see if he swapped the transmission or if it still has the old one in it. OK you can put a 904 behind a 2-bbl 318, and they could come that way from the factory, but the 727 was built for the V8s, with the A904 being considered a lightweight transmission for the slant-6 only.
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May 11, 2021 01:52
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IOwnCalculus posted:Hagerty Driveshare is the closest thing to what you're asking for. PainterofCrap posted:Search up antique and classic car sites, particularly their forums, join & post your query there. We tend to be egomaniacs insofar as we enjoy displaying our cars, but there is also a strain of friendly human nature there, and you may not have too much trouble finding someone willing to chauffeur your nuptials - or point you to a service / person that will. Very cool, thanks! We still got several months to figure it out but this helps.
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May 11, 2021 03:52
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DildenAnders posted:My sister has a 2005 Ford Focus ZX5 with the 2.0l Zetec. Talked to her today and she said she gets around 24 mpg with it. Is it just me, or is that pretty low? She's a good driver, definitely doesn't drive like a maniac or anything and the car doesn't have any codes. Checked some of the more obvious potential causes (tires, air filter, etc.) And nothing else is jumping out at me. Is this just something to expect from a 16 year old car? It all depends how she drives. Short trips? Yeah, it's gonna be way below EPA rated mileage. Gunning it from every stop? Same. If she's driving 95% on the highway at highway speeds, and accelerating slowly, then she might hit the EPA rated MPG. Very few people have that kind of commute. My Outback gets ~17 MPG, when it should be 22/28 (city/highway). I have a <2 mile commute each way to/from work, on a 45 mph road. It doesn't really get a chance to warm up. On top of that, I take my lunch break in the car, and on particularly warm days, I'll have the car idling to run the AC. I don't see mine ever hitting 28 unless I get on the highway and set the cruise at 55 (it's nearly 2 tons, plus AWD, automatic, and a 4 cylinder) - my best is 24. But when I take it on delivery duty, I average 22-24. The best you can do is look in the owner's manual and see what spark plugs are recommended, and use them. Make sure you use the correct oil weight, make sure the air filter is clean. If it's manual, make sure the correct weight gear oil is in the gearbox (always crack the fill plug open before draining it - you don't want to have to turn the car upside down to refill the gearbox).
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May 11, 2021 05:55
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wolrah posted:Maybe some shared platform engineering? If you were to eliminate MQB and MLB from VAG's lineup, how much would you actually have left? Their entire mainstream lineup other than the latest MEB EVs exists on one of those two platforms. VW has GM beat at their own game when it comes to platform sharing across brands. VW, Seat Skoda and Audi to some degree are the same stuff polished to different levels, while Bentley, Lambo, and Porsche are more distinct even if they can still share engines or some other tech got off on a technicality posted:I don't know what the AI consensus is on Jack Baruth these days but his latest article on Hagerty addresses precisely this
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May 11, 2021 13:40
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So my license (C, M1) is expiring in Sept. of this year and will need to be renewed before that. I also need to get my Real ID. If I get the Real ID now, can I safely let my license expire? Do I need to do anything special during the application process? This is in California. I couldn't find anything on the DMV's website addressing this specific question.
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May 11, 2021 21:40
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:So my license (C, M1) is expiring in Sept. of this year and will need to be renewed before that. I also need to get my Real ID. If I get the Real ID now, can I safely let my license expire? Do I need to do anything special during the application process? That's goign to be a state specific thing. if you renew your license with a realID one in my state it resets your renewal
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May 11, 2021 21:48
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Real ID deadline got extended a year fyi.
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May 11, 2021 22:35
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Anyone change the oil on a Ecoboost in a f150 or expedition? Looks like a PITA.
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May 12, 2021 00:29
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C-Bangin' it 
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Colostomy Bag posted:Anyone change the oil on a Ecoboost in a f150 or expedition? Looks like a PITA. Every 8-10k km. Filter is a breeze and installing a fumoto valve makes it a piece of cake.
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May 12, 2021 01:46
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:So my license (C, M1) is expiring in Sept. of this year and will need to be renewed before that. I also need to get my Real ID. If I get the Real ID now, can I safely let my license expire? Do I need to do anything special during the application process? tater_salad posted:That's goign to be a state specific thing. if you renew your license with a realID one in my state it resets your renewal
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May 12, 2021 01:59
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DildenAnders posted:My sister has a 2005 Ford Focus ZX5 with the 2.0l Zetec. Talked to her today and she said she gets around 24 mpg with it. Is it just me, or is that pretty low? She's a good driver, definitely doesn't drive like a maniac or anything and the car doesn't have any codes. Checked some of the more obvious potential causes (tires, air filter, etc.) And nothing else is jumping out at me. Is this just something to expect from a 16 year old car? I have a 2007 Focus SES Wagon with the manual transmission. Gets about 20-22 mpg city, 26-30 mpg highway. 24-26 mpg of mixed driving is normal. It gets 40+ mpg if you drive it behind our camper and draft on the highway.
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May 12, 2021 02:33
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I may post this in the GMT800 thread, but I don't really know where to ask for this one. I'm turning up nothing on the Escalade forums. 2005 Escalade -- third brake light apparently broke an attachment point. I just noticed it yesterday morning, with the driver's side flexed up. In the afternoon, it was right back where it should be, so some kind of temperature-based movement. Probably the flexing over the years broke the attachment point:  Question is... what do I do with it? Try to fix it with some kind of epoxy rebuild of the attachment point, or just let it go and study its habits? The part is $350 new, so I'd rather not replace it.
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May 12, 2021 12:44
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EVERYWHERE 
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surely that's the type of thing that's readily available at a junkyard edit: very possibly with the same problem
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May 12, 2021 12:49
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