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These short exposure times make me want a new printer. My older Anycubic Photon takes much longer to print then the newer ones.
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May 3, 2021 21:33
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Yeah, all these new printers with their monochrome screens was what finally made me buy one.
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May 3, 2021 21:55
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yes my first proper print was a pretty huge bust (not sure the exact scale but the head alone is the same size as a space marine) and it took 3 three-hour prints, which i gather is pretty drat quick for a big model
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May 3, 2021 21:57
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It is, the 6-inch figure I posted last page took my Photon S 24 hours.
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May 3, 2021 22:18
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I'm trying to design some bases for 3D printing in resin. My prototypes came out...okayish, but there's some warping. I think I saw somewhere that texturing or hollowing can help prevent that? The very very bottom layers also don't always come out so great. Sometimes they're its a bit blobby. Is that just a settings thing or should I try to raise the base off the bottom layer? The bases are quite small (40mmx20mm) Also note: I dont actually have a 3D printer so I'm flying a bit blind here
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May 9, 2021 14:28
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Nebalebadingdong posted:I'm trying to design some bases for 3D printing in resin. My prototypes came out...okayish, but there's some warping. I think I saw somewhere that texturing or hollowing can help prevent that? Longer exposure for a harder layer, and/or slower lift for less of a yank on the edges could help. Or print at and angle and support the hell out of it. I have no idea about the other issue, but then again, I'm not sure what you mean when you say blobby
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May 9, 2021 15:00
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Nebalebadingdong posted:I'm trying to design some bases for 3D printing in resin. My prototypes came out...okayish, but there's some warping. I think I saw somewhere that texturing or hollowing can help prevent that? So it sounds like you're printing straight on the base plate without supports? When you print flat on the plate you can get an effect called "elephant's foot" that is basically a warping at the bottom due to the base layers being overexposed. You can reduce this effect a lot by tuning the exposure time of you base layers as well as reducing the number of base layers. Basically you want it as low as possible while still having the layers stick to your build plate. The easiest solution if you don't want to tinker with that stuff is to just get your bases up off the build plate and make sure they are properly supported.
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May 10, 2021 18:24
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Thanks for the suggestions, gonna try again soon
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May 10, 2021 19:29
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So it was my lcd. It was fucky. Parts sure are hard to find right now. Covid manufacturing issues I'd imagine.
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May 10, 2021 19:36
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Harvey Mantaco posted:So it was my lcd. It was fucky. Which brand was it? I know elegoo has been having parts issues for a while now.
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May 11, 2021 02:20
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Verisimilidude posted:these were the presupports from the stls I found. I may just print them flat in the future but I've already printed about 50 of them so at this point it's a theme lol For the future, resin supports come off REAL easy and neatly if you put the model in warm water (doesn't even have to be hot, just nice and warm) before removing them. Under a warm stream of water they just scrape off with a fingernail with zero fuss or muss. Overall that is looking insanely good, though. What printer are you using again?
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May 11, 2021 12:01
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The Baumann posted:Which brand was it? I know elegoo has been having parts issues for a while now. Phrozen. They're on back order from the manufacturer so you have to go 3rd party - still sold out most places.
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May 11, 2021 12:33
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I changed resin from Anycubic's Transparent Green, to Elegoo water washable. The upside is that it's way easier to remove the supports, with way less shattering, the downside is that water takes a long time to dry compared to the acetone that I use on the regular resin. I'm just happy that I can see the details much better on the opaque prints.
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May 11, 2021 13:04
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i got the anycubic compostable resin and im kinda nervous that it’s an extremely loose definition of compostable that will end up with my homegrown vegetables killing me
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May 11, 2021 13:07
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jesus WEP posted:i got the anycubic compostable resin and im kinda nervous that it’s an extremely loose definition of compostable that will end up with my homegrown vegetables killing me Print and eat a sandwich. Let us know how it turns out! Is it good for printing? I might switch to it next time I run out, if it's any good, since less incredibly weird chemicals can't be all bad.
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May 11, 2021 13:22
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Electric Hobo posted:Print and eat a sandwich. Let us know how it turns out!
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May 11, 2021 13:24
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Shaman Tank Spec posted:For the future, resin supports come off REAL easy and neatly if you put the model in warm water (doesn't even have to be hot, just nice and warm) before removing them. Under a warm stream of water they just scrape off with a fingernail with zero fuss or muss. The ultrasonic cleaner I have tends to warm the cleaning solution as it goes, but I'll have to try just straight warm water next time! Currently using a Phrozen Sonic Mini 4k
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May 11, 2021 14:14
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 I think the knuckles, fingernails, wrist tendons all show off a decent finish on it. ignore the half-finished paint job please ive only blocked in rough colours
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May 11, 2021 14:20
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jesus WEP posted:
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May 11, 2021 15:26
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Electric Hobo posted:I'm always sceptical when when something is being marketed as "just as good!", but that looks great!
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May 11, 2021 16:37
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I just ordered a ELEGOO Mars 2 Pro with a curing/cleaning box. Are there any things I should look at getting right away in regards to tools or accessories?
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May 12, 2021 05:17
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Bucnasti posted:I just ordered a ELEGOO Mars 2 Pro with a curing/cleaning box. I would definitely recommend getting some spare FEP sheets, a Mach5ive gasket and a flex build plate. If your vat develops a leaky FEP, the gasket helps prevent resin from leaking into the innards of your printer (and they also recommend cutting a FEP sheet in half and putting it on the sticky underside of the gasket before you attach it, for extra protection against resin leaking onto the LCD screen). You could probably jerry-rig something similar with kapton tape, but the Mach5ive is already precut and ready to go. You can get resin flex plates from Wham Bam, Fulament, or Sovol nowadays, I forget the exact size but I think it's something like 135x80 mm for the Mars 2/Mars 2 Pro. Having one installed definitely makes removing prints so much easier. You will need to add a 2mm spacer of some sort (both Wham Bam and Fulament have instructions that show you where and how to add it), it can be a 3d printed spacer that you can get off of Thingiverse, or you could just use washers or whatever to get the same result. I'd also recommend getting a couple of silicone mats (usually the type with a raised lip, like for feeding kids or pets) to put down for ease of cleaning up spills and drips of resin etc. I have the printer sitting on one and a second one as my workspace for removing supports and doing general cleanup. Beyond that, just make sure to have plenty of paper towels, nitrile gloves, and cleaning solution on hand and you should be set. 
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May 12, 2021 05:56
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Sydney Bottocks posted:I would definitely recommend getting some spare FEP sheets, a Mach5ive gasket and a flex build plate. If your vat develops a leaky FEP, the gasket helps prevent resin from leaking into the innards of your printer (and they also recommend cutting a FEP sheet in half and putting it on the sticky underside of the gasket before you attach it, for extra protection against resin leaking onto the LCD screen). You could probably jerry-rig something similar with kapton tape, but the Mach5ive is already precut and ready to go. Thanks. Got all that ordered. Now my next question is what type of resin do people recommend? I ordered some elegoo water washable, because it looked like it would be a bit easier to get started with but I have no idea if that's actually going to be appropriate long term. I'm mostly going to be printing tabletop minis, bits, small terrain pieces, and I'll probably be painting everything. I have concerns about cleanup and disposal, I see eco-friendly and water washable resins, are those easier to work with? If I'm going to paint everything does it matter what color resin I use? does clear resin cure better than opaque? Will regular polyurethane primers work on resin printed models?
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May 14, 2021 04:35
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Bucnasti posted:Thanks. Got all that ordered. I have pretty much used exclusively water washable and a bit of the eco resin recently, and the clean up is definitely a lot easier with water. You don’t need to worry about cleaning products, you can just toss it into a ziploc bag into an ultrasonic cleaner and do something else. You do have to worry about waste, but if you use a ziploc bag you keep that to a minimum that you have to dispose of. I would recommend water washable over eco for now, mostly cause of the price difference. It feels a lot better messing up cheap prints when you’re learning. As far as color goes, grey is probably the best bet. Some clear resins can be bad for detailed prints because of light bleeding through. Certain colors also have different exposure times, with grey requiring less exposure than black and other darker colors. I haven’t had any issues with spray primer, you just want to make sure you cure the prints completely and wash any excess resin off well. The Baumann fucked around with this message at 07:33 on May 14, 2021 |
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May 14, 2021 07:30
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Bucnasti posted:Thanks. Got all that ordered. I've been using mainly Siraya Tech Simple Clear, which is their take on the "water washable" resin thing. They basically say it's a "15%" alcohol mix, which translates to 15% of your cleaning solution being isopropyl alcohol, and the other 85% being distilled water. Haven't had any issues with it thus far. It also has an advantage in that since it's clear, it doesn't need as long of an exposure time or a cure time. I'd have to look it up but I believe the setting I'm using on my Mars 2 is under 2 seconds and I usually only have to do 1 or 2 minutes curing time in the Anycubic Wash & Cure station, and it's been fine thus far.
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May 14, 2021 12:57
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If you're using water washable resin, what do you do with the water after cleaning? I'm assuming it's not safe to pour down the drain or dump on my lawn.
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May 14, 2021 16:12
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Bucnasti posted:If you're using water washable resin, what do you do with the water after cleaning? I'm assuming it's not safe to pour down the drain or dump on my lawn. You can leave the wash bucket in the sun to cure. Turns into what looks like gelatine.
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May 14, 2021 16:32
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Bucnasti posted:If you're using water washable resin, what do you do with the water after cleaning? I'm assuming it's not safe to pour down the drain or dump on my lawn. Yeah you don't want to just pour it down the drain. I have a bucket I use as a liquid waste disposal. If you put the print in a ziploc bag to clean you only have like a cup of water to deal with.
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May 14, 2021 17:17
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Bucnasti posted:Will regular polyurethane primers work on resin printed models?
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May 14, 2021 18:18
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I've been trying to print this thing: After three attempts, I'm running into the same problem each time: the supports print just fine, but once the print gets to the body of the object, it gets torn off the supports and remains stuck to the FEP. I think all the resin/exposure settings are dialed in just fine (printed a full model with no issues). Do I need to add more supports, or change the support connection shape? Is there something else I'm doing wrong? For reference, this thing is about 11mm across, 1.5mm thick, and tilted at a 45 degree angle. The supports were auto-generated and have cone-shaped connections.
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May 14, 2021 18:39
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I'd add more supports. At least one to each of the lower black areas on the picture, since it looks like you're getting a bad pull for a while before the next support connects.
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May 14, 2021 18:50
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You need more supports where the print actually starts (red areas in picture)
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May 14, 2021 19:35
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Thank you both!
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May 14, 2021 20:15
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not necessarily just more, I'd also thicken the contact area to ensure it doesn't pull away as easily
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May 14, 2021 20:17
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After cleaning my water washable prints with water for a while, I've started using acetone to clean them instead. It's just easier for me, and it lead to less piles of weirdly gummy water sitting around. I should probably make a note for the dangerous chemical guys who'll be picking up a box of strange grey putty.
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May 15, 2021 13:04
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Not a chemist so can't verify this myself but thought it was just something to be aware of for using "water washable" resins
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May 15, 2021 13:33
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I can't verify what they're saying, but it makes sense from a chemical perspective. Water washable resin isn't any more environmentally friendly than regular, you're just using a different solvent to dissolve it.
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May 15, 2021 13:54
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Oh yeah, water washable resin is still crazy poisonous, and should never be poured down the sink, or get into contact with nature in any way. It's one of the reasons that I've gone back to acetone for cleaning, it's easier for me to get rid of small amounts of "normal" dangerous chemicals, than much larger amounts of tainted water.
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May 15, 2021 15:31
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The problem I feel is that the term "water washable" has the implication that it's somehow safe and non toxic
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May 15, 2021 15:33
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working mom posted:The problem I feel is that the term "water washable" has the implication that it's somehow safe and non toxic It definitely doesn't help when manufacturers use pics in their marketing of people rinsing it off in the sink under a running tap, like they were washing dishes.
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May 15, 2021 15:44
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