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The only particularly worthwhile Grip-ons are the curved jaw imo. The Bremen harbor freight brand are shockingly on-par with.. pretty much every other brand of locking pliers. Even the welding clamp (11R and related) are excellent. Good deal at full price and an incredible deal on the rare occasion there's a sale.
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May 11, 2021 11:30
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The rivets on my left motorcycle saddlebag clasp have come loose. Pics: https://imgur.com/gallery/Ck0eHOl Rivets seem like a useless technology. Thinking of replacing the rivets with nuts and bolts and locking washers. Thoughts/recommendations?
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May 11, 2021 12:19
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Steakandchips posted:The rivets on my left motorcycle saddlebag clasp have come loose. With leather, rivets are able to bite into the material without cutting through, maintaining the fastened strength. With a nuts and bolts solution, the washers can either be too loose and wallow the hole in the leather out, or be too tight and cut through the leather. It's tough to find a sustainable middle ground. Obviously those rivets were crap, but rivets can be your friend.
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May 11, 2021 14:33
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EVERYWHERE 
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Yeah, you see rivets on leather for a reason.
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May 11, 2021 21:00
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i dont understand it, it must be for stupid morons
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May 12, 2021 02:12
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Ziptied it for now since I’m on holiday. Will look into bolts or rivets further when I’m home next week.
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May 12, 2021 06:28
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Will not stand for this rivet slander. Rivets are how we beat the Nazis!!!!
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May 14, 2021 17:22
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I installed 4 rivets into a van headliner yesterday and the hardest part was keeping the little washers from falling off the back while using the riveter with both hands
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May 14, 2021 17:23
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Any coil spring compressor suggestions? I’ve never even looked at them before. I’m not using c-clamps and zip ties.
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May 14, 2021 17:46
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Advent Horizon posted:Any coil spring compressor suggestions? I’ve never even looked at them before. Probably whatever has good reviews. I ended up having to buy a pair because all the places that loan them out told me the same thing, that people don't bother bringing them back, as the charge is the same as the cost of buying them. Not sure what you're working on but in my case, the ones I bought were a bit of a pain in the rear end. I was putting new springs on and they had more coils than the old ones, and I practically had to compress the springs down flat to get them to fit. YMMV
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May 14, 2021 18:52
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Advent Horizon posted:Any coil spring compressor suggestions? I’ve never even looked at them before. that depends on if you're just removing, or also installing. if you're just removing you can (theoretically, this is not advice, do so at your own peril, in minecraft) just relax the springs with a torch. e: this is also the super low budget early 2000s teenager with a 93 S10 way to lower your truck 
Cactus Ghost fucked around with this message at 18:57 on May 14, 2021 |
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May 14, 2021 18:54
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OMGVBFLOL posted:that depends on if you're just removing, or also installing. if you're just removing you can (theoretically, this is not advice, do so at your own peril, in minecraft) just relax the springs with a torch. I've also used an angle grinder to do that with springs while still on the strut, but DON'T DO THIS BECAUSE ITS DANGEROUS!!!
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May 14, 2021 19:00
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oh jesus no i didnt mean cut them with a torch, just heat up one spot til the steel loses its temper (  ) and sags
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May 14, 2021 19:03
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OMGVBFLOL posted:oh jesus no i didnt mean cut them with a torch, just heat up one spot til the steel loses its temper ( I know what you meant. I know people who have done that too. Back in the 90s and 2000s.
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May 14, 2021 19:11
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I would like my car to ride like new when I’m done. No torchy torchy. I’m doing the shocks, struts, and lower control arms on my Leaf. I’d like to just buy a tool so I’ll have everything - if nothing else, a close friend just paid to have his LCAs replaced on a Subaru and if I have the tools we’d be able to do it. Another friend suggested an OTC 7294: OTC 7294 MacPherson Strut Spring Hook Compressor - pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F5HUZS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_VE29BVRMRGRWGMBR5M3T
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May 14, 2021 19:59
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Another known brand, better reviews, less than half the cost: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07S966...0NsaWNrPXRydWU= Looks pretty identical, and they both look like the ones I've used in the past.
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May 14, 2021 20:10
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I can't remember who made my strut compressors in particular but they're that same style. Definitely the least-sketchy version I've ever used. The ancient ones my dad has (and probably hasn't used since I last used them ~10 years ago) relied on eyehooks that you threaded in.
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May 14, 2021 20:11
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wtf why did y'all go through that much work instead of just flipping the mounts???
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May 14, 2021 20:16
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Big Dick Cheney posted:Will not stand for this rivet slander. Rivets are how we beat the Nazis!!!! They died while I am currently on holiday. I have replaced three rivets with two zip ties for now from my toolkit.
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May 14, 2021 20:36
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Wasabi the J posted:wtf why did y'all go through that much work instead of just flipping the mounts??? 
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May 14, 2021 20:38
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Krakkles posted:Another known brand, better reviews, less than half the cost: I have these and have used many others, these are very good. I’ve had the threads gall on cheaper ones which is inconvenient.
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May 15, 2021 02:44
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Advent Horizon posted:Any coil spring compressor suggestions? I’ve never even looked at them before. https://www.ebay.ca/itm/201529561687 I much prefer this style of compressor to the cheaper bolt and hook style. The other good option is a standing version, like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/162844203116?hash=item25ea45586c:g:uVIAAOSw9Etel--w
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May 15, 2021 02:56
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It’s kind of cool how those aren’t that expensive. You could justify keeping it if you had the space or throwing it up on Craigslist if you needed the cash more. Alas, the bolt ones are all I’ve ever used and haven’t been done wrong really.
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May 15, 2021 04:30
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Krakkles posted:I'm not positive this is what you're talking about, but I am enjoying the fact that I haven't had to use spring compressors for a very long time because the front of my Jeep has more than enough flex to just drop the spring out if you take the limit strap off I remember high school/army dudes flipping over components of their suspension so they were "lowered" by an inch or two in a janky surely-not-safe way
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May 15, 2021 07:43
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Wasabi the J posted:I remember high school/army dudes flipping over components of their suspension so they were "lowered" by an inch or two in a janky surely-not-safe way A previous owner of my '68 C10 lowered the rear by just taking out the springs completely. Let me tell you, between that and the who knows how old shocks, ride quality was not reassuring.
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May 15, 2021 13:57
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Frank Dillinger posted:https://www.ebay.ca/itm/201529561687 This is cool. I seen to remember seeing a wall mounted version somewhere (maybe home made?) That just had a big rear end pipe for leverage to compress the spring. Not that I would do suspension often enough to justify the space but thought it was a good idea if the strut could be kept in place in a non-sketchy way.
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May 15, 2021 20:29
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I'm looking at picking up a paint gun and the appropriate PPE. I plan on using it with oil base and urethane base to spray trailer/truck frames, some welding projects, and try and see if I can do some body work on my farm truck. After looking around I think I'm going for this paint gun kit https://www.eastwood.com/devilbiss-auto-paint-and-priming-system.html For PPE I was thinking of a full face respirator with p100/organic vapor cartridges, I saw a Honeywell recommended several pages back but dont know how well it would work with glasses. I guess my other option would be the 3m half face and getting some prescription goggles of some type. I should probably use one of those hooded tyvek suits too. Any recommendations for a respirator or anything I'm overlooking? I know I'll need to find a filter/regulator/dryer still.
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May 15, 2021 22:00
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You basically have two options with glasses, half mask or fresh air mask. A half mask is an order of magnitude cheaper, but a fresh air mask is nice because it's not a sealing mask so glasses aren't a problem. You won't be able to effectively use a full face mask with glasses. In HAZMAT you just don't wear glasses to solve that issue. An intermediate solution would be to work on your ventilation system which there are many relatively cheap solutions for.
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May 15, 2021 22:44
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um excuse me posted:You won't be able to effectively use a full face mask with glasses. In HAZMAT you just don't wear glasses to solve that issue. The people who need corrective lenses on our hazmat team have them built into their full face mask, so it's definitely possible (but possibly very spendy).
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May 15, 2021 22:57
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That is definitely a thing, but you could also look at a PAPR if you want to drop the dough and just wear your glasses under it no problem. You don't have to worry about fogging but they are expensive. Keep in mind filters can still be fun to get - a poo poo ton of production capacity got flipped to N95 and medical masks and backlogs are still a huge thing, so whichever way you go make sure filters are available. I know the 3M Versaflow works decently with glasses as some of my clients use them.... but they are  https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/v100559008/ e: Another really nice thing about going with a full PAPR is that they can be very helpful at keeping you cool. slidebite fucked around with this message at 23:16 on May 15, 2021 |
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May 15, 2021 23:07
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Motronic posted:The people who need corrective lenses on our hazmat team have them built into their full face mask, so it's definitely possible (but possibly very spendy). You know, I do recall something like this now. People just didn't use them where I worked.
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May 15, 2021 23:23
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That versaflow makes lasik look cheap. Would buying a set of goggles and blocking the vents be the best option? I could just wear my half mask and face shield over the top to try and keep overspray off my face but I'm thinking that would get hot after a while. I was probably going to be doing most of the painting that I dont care about dust getting on in one of my greenhouses, one has a 60" fan in the back. For bodywork I saved the blower out of my old furnace and was thinking I could weld up something to hold some furnace filters in and do a makeshift paintbooth in half the garage.
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May 16, 2021 00:31
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Supplied air is best for auto paints. I'll upgrade to this one when it's car paint time again. https://www.tptools.com/Deluxe-Full-Face-Air-Respirator-System,390.html?b=d*8102 Full face is ideal as well since it's eye protection from both particles and gasses. I used a full face respirator, and worked outside. It probably wasn't the best. I couldn't smell the paint though so it did something.
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May 16, 2021 02:55
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Anyone have a suggestion on a decent brake flare tool kit that can do 3/16" in M10 bubble flare, M12 bubble flare, and M10 inverted flare? Basically the flares needed for an E46 BMW and an 04 Miata. Maybe a cap at like $350 or something BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 06:16 on May 16, 2021 |
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May 16, 2021 05:54
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BlackMK4 posted:Anyone have a suggestion on a decent brake flare tool kit that can do 3/16" in M10 bubble flare, M12 bubble flare, and M10 inverted flare? Basically the flares needed for an E46 BMW and an 04 Miata. I'm 99.9% certain the flare itself is just sized based on the tubing and is the same even if the thread on the nut varies - at least, I've never done a different flare for brake lines with different threads on either end  If you're fine with doing them in a bench vise, $350 would way more than cover the Eastwood flaring tool. Hell, you could probably buy the 37 degree die kit for it too if you want to do any AN/JIC hardlines. If you want to do them on the car you'd want to look for one of the "inline" flaring tools but a quick search isn't showing me any of those that do bubble flares.
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May 16, 2021 17:55
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If I want to be able to cut metal accurately for general fabrication, but don’t have room for a bandsaw, is a chop saw pretty much the way to go? Who makes a good one? I’ve heard Evo mentioned, and I’m not opposed, but I’m not sure if I need the $489 one.
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May 17, 2021 03:12
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A chop saw is a good option if you can afford a nice carbide bladed one like this. You can't modify an abrasive or a normal chop saw, they spin too fast and don't have the right hold-down faculties. Carbide tipped metal cutting saws just aren't cheap, they're also hellishly loud. Don't bother with abrasive imo, they suck for various reasons, for light stuff they're not too bad. You say you can't fit a bandsaw, but can you fit this combined with a portable bandsaw of your choice? A cordless one from your chosen ecosystem maybe? Then you'd also have a portaband, which are awesome, my cordless DeWalt is my new favorite tool, Kastein uses his with a Harbor Freight cheapie though and has been happy with it. If you look a few pages back in my house thread in HCH I struggle with cutting some large metal, and ended up with the portaband. Here's a video of me cutting metal with an abrasive cutoff saw https://youtu.be/Eu2BM7R9FOE. TL:DR get a portable bandsaw.
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May 17, 2021 03:30
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I am actually not very impressed with the HF portaband at all. The first one burned up literally 2 cuts into its life on the day I opened the box and I was past the warranty because I bought it too far in advance, so I ended up buying another and returning "it" because I'll be DAMNED if I'm going to let them screw me like that just because it sat on my shelf in an unopened box for a few months. I've used that one a handful of times since then and while it works, I absolutely would not recommend buying one, and if you're going to buy one, get the extended warranty because you're rolling the dice on a multi hundred dollar piece of poo poo if you don't. If I'd known it was going to be so fantastically unreliable I would have just bought a name brand one. 2 cuts before smoke-came-out failure is straight up unacceptable. Edit: you might be thinking of the small vertical/horizontal shop bandsaw they have. I've owned that since... 2013 I think? And it kicks rear end. lovely in some ways but 100% worth the money, I use the hell out of it. kastein fucked around with this message at 04:12 on May 17, 2021 |
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May 17, 2021 04:09
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Oh yeah, that's probably it, my bad.
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May 17, 2021 04:26
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That looks like a pretty great solution, actually. Are there any name brand but not $350 portable bandsaws worth getting? I’m not opposed to buying the Milwaukee 6238 if it’s the right one (picked that one based on multiple sites saying it’s the best, but i don’t know), but if I opt for the table with the miter gauge (which I think I want) I’m looking at $600 all in. Not going to lie, the Bauer was tempting until I saw kastein’s comments
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May 17, 2021 04:48
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