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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I pulled the trigger on the 7.5 hp Laguna shaper and I’ve already realized if I’m gonna use it for cabinet doors I really should have 2 or 3 shapers lol. Hoooooly gently caress shaper tooling is expensive. Time to learn to grind my own knives I guess?
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May 13, 2021 18:39
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Ok I have a semi-novice question. I just got a router (the bauer makita knockoff), and I was trying to figure out the dimensions of the base in case I wanted to make jigs for it that screw into the base reasonably. Is there a reason that the dimensions of the screw holes in the base are so weird? Like...  This really seems kind of contrived. What do I even reference off if I want to drill this pattern into a jig? Why is one pair 54 apart and the other 56? Is that centered? Basically, is there some secret sauce to these measurements that makes something non-obvious easier? Or is this just kind of random numbers thrown out by a finite element analysis that says those holes make for a strong base or something? (Annoyingly this also implies that if I put a rail on two diagonal screws, and then have that rail ride in a slot, the router bit will be juuuuuuuust slightly off the center of the rail. Mystifying design. DearSirXNORMadam fucked around with this message at 22:53 on May 13, 2021 |
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May 13, 2021 22:50
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https://twitter.com/colfox_/status/1045488547027914752
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May 13, 2021 23:01
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I love how instead of unplugging it or having it on a surge protector with a switch, they reach in to turn it off with a switch that may or may not be currently melting.
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May 13, 2021 23:06
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That heavy smoke at the end looks tasty
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May 13, 2021 23:08
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Mirconium posted:Ok I have a semi-novice question. I just got a router (the bauer makita knockoff), and I was trying to figure out the dimensions of the base in case I wanted to make jigs for it that screw into the base reasonably. Is there a reason that the dimensions of the screw holes in the base are so weird? Like... I would assume that the 54 and 56 are centered. Ideally, you'd want either a centerline or another dimension, someone was lazy. The only reason I would assume for those being different is that they wanted the base to go on only one way. I'd reference everything off the center of the router. That seems like the most important point in the drawing. Don't get tripped up with the holes not being symmetrical in the vertical dimension, either.
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May 13, 2021 23:39
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Mirconium posted:Ok I have a semi-novice question. I just got a router (the bauer makita knockoff), and I was trying to figure out the dimensions of the base in case I wanted to make jigs for it that screw into the base reasonably. Is there a reason that the dimensions of the screw holes in the base are so weird? Like... The answer to 'why' for most of these questions is something only the designer can answer. I doubt they did any serious FEA for something so simple either. They're not nicely symmetric like you think they should be because there likely wasn't a design requirement to make them that way. Even if they were radially symmetric I wouldn't trust that a diagonal connecting piece would go across the dead center. There's way too much tolerance stackup between that part and the cutting bit for it to line up well. More specifically, yes those two pairs of holes are centered. Leaving that out is a normal drawing convention to keep it less cluttered. If you want to copy it, can you trace the hole location directly onto whatever your replacing it with? That'll be more accurate than trying to make a matching piece based on the drawing alone. Unless you have good machine tools available.
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May 13, 2021 23:43
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Mr. Mambold posted:No, unless you can braze carbide too and then grind that within tolerance. I always got good panel cutters astoundingly cheap from :drumroll: Grizzly. You can get a much smaller one to do the cope and stick, and they had reversible sets, although you still had to swap out and fiddle with spindle height. Heck you could do that on a router table, but I wouldn't at this point. I saw grizzly had a bunch of cutters and figured they were decent enough. I don't really do big production runs for the most part, so they should be fine. Woodworker's Supply is having a huge sale on their Woodtek line of router bits and shaper cutters and I'm gonna try and pick up a few basic cope/stick cutters there. I've had good luck with their router bits. I mostly really bought this to use as a giant flush trim router to make my pencil post beds 1000x easier and the 4" spiral cutterhead and bearing was $400 from Charles GG Schmidt and it was very  Shouldn't ever need another one though. It looks like the old Delta shapers had stub spindles available and that seems like it would be useful to have for making longer tenons on doors.
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May 14, 2021 01:14
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Mirconium posted:Ok I have a semi-novice question. I just got a router (the bauer makita knockoff), and I was trying to figure out the dimensions of the base in case I wanted to make jigs for it that screw into the base reasonably. Is there a reason that the dimensions of the screw holes in the base are so weird? Like... You design mass production parts with radial asymmetry so the assembly line drones can't put it together backwards. Your best bet for making copies of that bolt hole pattern is gonna be a 4.5mm transfer punch and a clamp. shame on an IGA fucked around with this message at 01:25 on May 14, 2021 |
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May 14, 2021 01:18
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I got a grizzly 17” bandsaw before realizing that while it’ll physically fit in my shop, I won’t be able to put it on a mobile base or keep it in a spot where it’ll have any infeed or outfeed space :/. Fun part is I ordered it April 5th and actually haven’t gotten it yet thanks to shipping delays, it’s supposed to show up tomorrow and then I can finally initiate a return and somehow get it sent back. In the meantime, this year is powermatic’s 100th anniversary and they’re revamping some of their lineup to be all pretty-pretty for it http://www.powermatic.com/us/en/promotions/100-year-anniversary/ Double checked the dimensions and snagged me one of those bandsaws as a replacement  Hopefully it actually shows up when they say it’s supposed to
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May 14, 2021 01:49
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Mirconium posted:Ok I have a semi-novice question. I just got a router (the bauer makita knockoff), and I was trying to figure out the dimensions of the base in case I wanted to make jigs for it that screw into the base reasonably. Is there a reason that the dimensions of the screw holes in the base are so weird? Like... In addition to what others have said, also keep in mind that most router bases do not use the holes to centre the base with the bit. There's an extra little cone shaped thing you can buy that goes into the collet that you push against the base then tighten the screws in order to get it centred. The router I bought was definitely pretty far off centre and it was only visible when I actually put on the centring bit and checked. I had to loosen those screws on the base then push the centring bit against it then tighten everything back down. Example of what I'm talking about https://www.amazon.ca/DEWALT-DNP617-Centering-Compact-Router/dp/B004AJEUOY Also you probably already know this but you can just print that template off at real size with something like Matthias Wandel's bigprint or some other similar program that lets you scale/size check and glue it to the wood to cut/drill to size rather than measuring all those distances precisely (assuming the drawing is actually properly to scale). https://woodgears.ca/bigprint/
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May 14, 2021 01:50
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Finished up the wood slat walls of my shop a few weeks ago and am now tackling the problem of having absolutely no place to put things. To take care of that I’ve been designing a miter station and just finally wrapped up the design! Complete with filing cabinet drawers for those hanging file organizer thingies, and some wide thin drawers for larger (arch D size and such) printed plans. Should have a cut list done this weekend but might hold off until my useable bandsaw shows up to take care of the cabinet carcasses. Super duper excited and looking forward to having places for things, and putting said things into their places.
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May 14, 2021 01:58
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I mostly really bought this to use as a giant flush trim router to make my pencil post beds 1000x easier and the 4" spiral cutterhead and bearing was $400 from Charles GG Schmidt and it was very I like the way you think. Couple dozen to a hundred of those beds and you're back whole again. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:It looks like the old Delta shapers had stub spindles available and that seems like it would be useful to have for making longer tenons on doors. Spindles should be interchangeable. I'd fwiggen hope they are. If you can't find a 0° bevel panel cutter, surely you could craft a sliding miter gauge jig to get a 0° bevel variation of a panel raising bit that would cut a, what, 3" tenon?
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May 14, 2021 03:14
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I would like to be installed in my basement and possibly also in my garage.
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May 14, 2021 03:17
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Fortaleza posted:Finished up the wood slat walls of my shop a few weeks ago and am now tackling the problem of having absolutely no place to put things. To take care of that I’ve been designing a miter station and just finally wrapped up the design! Awesome. I like having a station with ruled tracks etc. Makes knocking out projects that don't need super fine work a snap. I've only got about half the shelves built so far that I want though.
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May 14, 2021 11:52
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That Works posted:Awesome. I like having a station with ruled tracks etc. Makes knocking out projects that don't need super fine work a snap. I've only got about half the shelves built so far that I want though. Oh right, I completely forgot about the tracks going in whoops. Going to go with the wood whisperer’s design I think https://thewoodwhispererguild.com/product/miter-station/, one track with ruling and one t-track for a stop. It’s one of the very last steps before adding paint and finish so I keep forgetting about ‘em
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May 14, 2021 16:02
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Do you have enough outfeed room to the left of your router? Maybe so, if you don't like, rout the edge of a long board along its entire length, but it's worth thinking about.
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May 14, 2021 18:41
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Leperflesh posted:Do you have enough outfeed room to the left of your router? Maybe so, if you don't like, rout the edge of a long board along its entire length, but it's worth thinking about. There’s just over 3 1/2 feet, should be plenty I think. If I’m routing something larger I can always take the router out and do the work on my workbench but I don’t have any projects on the near or far horizon that I can think of that would involve that.
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May 14, 2021 20:31
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Fortaleza posted:Finished up the wood slat walls of my shop a few weeks ago and am now tackling the problem of having absolutely no place to put things. To take care of that I’ve been designing a miter station and just finally wrapped up the design! This is great, and is close to what I'll be putting in my shop as well. I'm curious why you need the bandsaw for it though. Is it to cut the little squares for the toe kicks?
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May 14, 2021 21:24
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:This is great, and is close to what I'll be putting in my shop as well. Thanks! Yeah the bandsaw would be for those cuts as well as similar ones for support cleats you can’t see well in that pic (you can see some of the bottom back ones directly below the power tool stations towards the floor). Could do them without a bandsaw but there are 11 vertical boards in those cabinets, each with identical or similar cuts so the bandsaw would make quick work of it compared to doing it with my crosscut saw. One thing I haven’t tackled yet is how to secure the horizontal boards holding the router table and miter saw. Ideally it’d be something adjustable so I can get the surfaces of the tools lined up with the top surface, but also can’t have any hardware sticking through the cabinet too far or it’ll get in the way of cabinets functioning, but still needs to be strong enough to hold the tools plus take any downward force when using them on pieces.
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May 14, 2021 22:25
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Fortaleza posted:One thing I haven’t tackled yet is how to secure the horizontal boards holding the router table and miter saw. Ideally it’d be something adjustable so I can get the surfaces of the tools lined up with the top surface, but also can’t have any hardware sticking through the cabinet too far or it’ll get in the way of cabinets functioning, but still needs to be strong enough to hold the tools plus take any downward force when using them on pieces. I'm tentatively looking at making a miter stand and one video I watched had the guy mount the shelf an inch or so low and used a replaceable spacer block to get it level. The blocks can be swapped out if the tool is replaced. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4vTWjHWg89E Uthor fucked around with this message at 22:37 on May 14, 2021 |
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May 14, 2021 22:34
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Hey, I've got a novice question that hopefully has an easy answer. I'm looking to cut out a shape from a board to fit into a hole in a table. The overall shape to be cut is a 6 3/4in box with a D shaped curve on one side. Cutting out the straight sides is no problem, but I'm looking for an easy way to cut out the curve I'll need and have it be relatively square WRT the face of the board. All I have for tools are a standard hand saw, a coping saw, and an orbital sander. While I can use the coping saw, I'm nowhere near precise enough to follow the curve by hand without needing to sand at least some wood off afterward. My worry is that I'll go to sand the extra off, and I'll round off the edges instead of keeping them even kinda square. Any tips you guys can give me on how to not gently caress this up would be great.
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May 14, 2021 23:25
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Just refused delivery on a Grizzly bandsaw. Was too big to be useful in my shop and I was going to return it but it showed up with the flimsiest wood packaging I’ve ever seen and looked like it’d been in smashed repeatedly (there are more pics but it looked like that all over) Anyone dealt with grizzly like this before? Will getting my money back be more or less like squeezing blood from a stone?
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May 14, 2021 23:49
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They're generally great. It's still going to be slow and frustrating but they'll make it right eventually.
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May 14, 2021 23:56
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 All things considered I think they turned out aight
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May 15, 2021 00:06
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Hypnolobster posted:They're generally great. It's still going to be slow and frustrating but they'll make it right eventually. Ah, that’s reassuring. Makes me think I did the right thing if they’re slow, going the accept -> return route would’ve meant having it stay in the garage taking up space for who knows how long. It was actually the freight delivery guy that suggested refusing it. Said he was the only one on the route so he’d be the one to get the return and was like “man, moving this thing sucks and is kinda scary. Please don’t make me do it twice” Fortaleza fucked around with this message at 06:24 on May 15, 2021 |
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May 15, 2021 00:08
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Fortaleza posted:Ah, that’s reassuring. Makes me think I did the right thing if they’re slow, going the accept -> return route would’ve meant having it stay I. The garage taking up space for who knows how long.  Kaiser Schnitzel posted:
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May 15, 2021 00:49
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Knot My President! posted:
That looks great!
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May 15, 2021 01:02
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Fortaleza posted:Ah, that’s reassuring. Makes me think I did the right thing if they’re slow, going the accept -> return route would’ve meant having it stay I. The garage taking up space for who knows how long. Yeah, you definitely did it the easier way. It's 10x more of a pain if it actually ends up in your hands.
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May 15, 2021 01:59
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Fortaleza posted:Ah, that’s reassuring. Makes me think I did the right thing if they’re slow, going the accept -> return route would’ve meant having it stay in the garage taking up space for who knows how long. 100% did the right thing refusing that.
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May 15, 2021 11:52
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I made this little drawer out of 1/4" material.   The instructions I'm following said to put a rabbet along the lower edges for the bottom to inset into for more gluing surface. I forgot to do that, so the bottom is glued only along the four sides to the four walls (I still need to add a divider in the middle, which will give one more scarface roughly in the center), though I think I did a decent job of sizing and I did have a good friction fit on top of the glue. Do you think that's sufficient or should I reinforce the joint somehow? I don't have a Brad nailer and am frankly worried about driving even small nails on something relatively delicate, but I have seen someone in the past drill small holes and glue in some nails, then cut off the heads. It shouldn't be taking much forces (it's for a pencil box), but I will be giving it to one of my nieces and, well, kids and all. I also need to add the front face. I was thinking of only using glue, no screws, then whatever hardware I'll have for the eventual pull knob. I think most people screw the fronts on, but I think glue will be enough in this case.
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May 15, 2021 21:14
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Any idea what model Dewalt planer this is? I have second dibs on it tomorrow for $150 and I just want to make sure it's not a lemon, since it'd be an hour drive: It sounds like it was this woman's late husband's. edit: Hmm, maybe it's just a 734 with some other random piece of equipment on top of it. That might explain why I can't figure it out. Danhenge fucked around with this message at 03:40 on May 16, 2021 |
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May 16, 2021 03:35
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I don't think you have to worry, whoever has first dibs is definitely going to take that for $150
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May 16, 2021 03:39
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Rutibex posted:I don't think you have to worry, whoever has first dibs is definitely going to take that for $150 I mean, yes, unless they don't show up!! People are notoriously flaky near where I live. I can hope
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May 16, 2021 03:40
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Danhenge posted:Any idea what model Dewalt planer this is? I have second dibs on it tomorrow for $150 and I just want to make sure it's not a lemon, since it'd be an hour drive: Yes, that is a 734. I have mixed feelings on mine, but $150 is in my "gently caress it, why not" range, so glhf.
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May 16, 2021 03:47
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Yeah its a 734 with its dust hood sitting on top. For $150 get it.
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May 16, 2021 03:53
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I bought a well used 734 for around the same price but it was in much rougher shape than that one. The rubber rollers that pull the wood in were cracking so check for that I guess. It made it so it would skip and leave a big divot in the board if I didn't re-wax the bed after every couple of passes.
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May 16, 2021 04:58
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As predicted it sold this morning!
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May 16, 2021 15:17
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Uthor posted:I made this little drawer out of 1/4" material. Considering you're unlikely to put anything too heavy into such a small drawer I think the bottom should be fine.
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May 16, 2021 18:42
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| # ? Jun 3, 2024 09:42 |
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A simple shelf I made to take advantage of some wasted volume in my house.  The wood is hickory. This is the first time I've used it, and I'm pretty impressed; it's not terribly hard to work, can splinter but no more than cherry would, and it smells nice. The high contrast in the grain is a potential issue for some applications, of course, but here I don't think it's a problem. Design-wise, I'd've been happier if I could make the shelf a little longer so it could span three studs instead of like 2.9, but if I made it any longer, I wouldn't have been able to install it because of the beam you can see in the top-left of the photo. The shelf + triangular bracket slides vertically into dovetail slots in the mounting pieces, and those slots (and the rails on the triangular brackets) are a bit too long to fit with the beam in the way. (in retrospect I could have made them shorter, oh well)
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May 16, 2021 18:48
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