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Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


kitten emergency posted:

US based, actually, new construction though. Maybe they aren’t AFCIs? There’s a little ‘Test’ button on them though, they look like pictures I’ve seen. Got em on the fridge, garage and kitchen lights, and the dish disposal.

That's a GFCI, isn't it?

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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

FCKGW posted:

My local Hone Depot has started to put purchase limits on a bunch of random items like old and new work switch boxes, drywall joint compound and light switches. Shits getting crazy out there.

That's been going on here for a couple of months. Seems to rotate on what have limits. It was mud/drywall a few weeks ago. It's electrical conduit now.

Also, stock is low in a LOT of poo poo even if it's not purchase limited. I think nobody wants to be holding on to $XXX purchased stock when the price goes back down to $XX.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


ughhghhghg a loving cabinet door stripped its screw holes

so now i gotta fill the holes, glue it, and redrill fresh holes

dehumanize myself and face to toothpicks and superglue

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


thoughts and prayers

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


FCKGW posted:

My local Hone Depot has started to put purchase limits on a bunch of random items like old and new work switch boxes, drywall joint compound and light switches. Shits getting crazy out there.

I had a hell of a time finding them last year. My buddy was doing work and the contractor asked him to try and find some.

FCKGW
May 21, 2006

tater_salad posted:

I had a hell of a time finding them last year. My buddy was doing work and the contractor asked him to try and find some.

Same, I think because they're slowly coming back in stock is why the purchase limits.

I had to drive 30mi today to find some basic paddle light switches :smith:

tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

Here switches are around, but you're poo poo out of luck if you're looking for flexible electrical conduit or standard electrical boxes.

kitten emergency
Jan 13, 2008

get meow this wack-ass crystal prison

Deviant posted:

That's a GFCI, isn't it?

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0KLq8aJqSOPoANJko5I55H5jw#Malta

Maybe, but i thought GFCI were only on the outlet and not the breaker? I’m pretty ignorant about this sort of stuff.

FWIW I threw some water bottles and such in the fridge and it hasn’t happened since (also put some thermometers in there to check the temp and it seems to be holding true) so maybe it’s nothing to worry about

B-Nasty
May 25, 2005

FCKGW posted:

Replacing a water pressure regulator and every 1/4' you go up in pipe sizing adds like $100 to the cost of the unit :wtc:

pre:
3/4"        $80
1"          $150
1 1/4"      $300
1 1/2"      $400
2"          $550

What kind of water service do you have? Anything over an inch is massive overkill. Around here, it's usally 3/4" service, 5/8" meter or 1" meter for sprinklers (50gpm.) The reason why it jumps beyond 1" is because you're dealing with commercial/rare service sizes, and that always means $$$.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

kitten emergency posted:

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0KLq8aJqSOPoANJko5I55H5jw#Malta

Maybe, but i thought GFCI were only on the outlet and not the breaker? I’m pretty ignorant about this sort of stuff.

FWIW I threw some water bottles and such in the fridge and it hasn’t happened since (also put some thermometers in there to check the temp and it seems to be holding true) so maybe it’s nothing to worry about

That's a standard breaker. Not GFCI (which are a thing), not AFCI, no CAFCI.

The fridge, the wiring, or the breaker are bad. You start with the easiest/cheapest thing, which is the breaker ($20).

FCKGW
May 21, 2006

B-Nasty posted:

What kind of water service do you have? Anything over an inch is massive overkill. Around here, it's usally 3/4" service, 5/8" meter or 1" meter for sprinklers (50gpm.) The reason why it jumps beyond 1" is because you're dealing with commercial/rare service sizes, and that always means $$$.

It's hard to tell how big my existing regulator is now, but it looks like it's going to be a 1 1/2". The pipes going into it look to be 1 1/4" but there's larger NTP connectors on the pipe? I'm still trying to figure out if I can just easily swap this thing out but pay $$$ for an oversides regulator, or have a plumber put in a new regular that more appropriate size.

I physically looked at the 1" regulators at Home Depot but this thing is bigger than that.

kitten emergency
Jan 13, 2008

get meow this wack-ass crystal prison

Motronic posted:

That's a standard breaker. Not GFCI (which are a thing), not AFCI, no CAFCI.

The fridge, the wiring, or the breaker are bad. You start with the easiest/cheapest thing, which is the breaker ($20).

Huh, ok. Thanks for the advice!

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Motronic posted:

That's a standard breaker. Not GFCI (which are a thing), not AFCI, no CAFCI.

The fridge, the wiring, or the breaker are bad. You start with the easiest/cheapest thing, which is the breaker ($20).

Hang on - apple ruins everything. Click the picture, it's a drat thumbnail. Top breaker has a "test" button. The center breaker is standard, top is some kind of FCI - they make them as A, G, or C (which is A+G.) Gotta find out what it is.

kitten emergency
Jan 13, 2008

get meow this wack-ass crystal prison

H110Hawk posted:

Hang on - apple ruins everything. Click the picture, it's a drat thumbnail. Top breaker has a "test" button. The center breaker is standard, top is some kind of FCI - they make them as A, G, or C (which is A+G.) Gotta find out what it is.

There’s nothing on it but the test button, I guess I’d need to remove the panel on the breaker to see if there’s a label behind it?

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

kitten emergency posted:

There’s nothing on it but the test button, I guess I’d need to remove the panel on the breaker to see if there’s a label behind it?

Yup. Otherwise just grab a cfci and be done with it. If it's still tripping you have a problem downstream. Unlikely overcurrent.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

kitten emergency posted:

There’s nothing on it but the test button, I guess I’d need to remove the panel on the breaker to see if there’s a label behind it?

Wait.....the breaker you're talking about has a test button? That's not at all what I saw in the link you posted. Use imgur or something else reasonable.

kitten emergency
Jan 13, 2008

get meow this wack-ass crystal prison

Motronic posted:

Wait.....the breaker you're talking about has a test button? That's not at all what I saw in the link you posted. Use imgur or something else reasonable.

Sorry, I don’t have my computer hooked up and imgur won’t let you upload without their dumb app. https://pasteboard.co/K25XzF1.jpg should work, it’s the top breaker.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

kitten emergency posted:

Sorry, I don’t have my computer hooked up and imgur won’t let you upload without their dumb app. https://pasteboard.co/K25XzF1.jpg should work, it’s the top breaker.

Purple reset button means it's a dual GFCI and AFCI (i.e CAFCI) breaker as far as I know in Square D.

It's gonna be a lot more than $20, but I'd still start with replacing it because anything else is a lot more expensive.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

kitten emergency posted:

Sorry, I don’t have my computer hooked up and imgur won’t let you upload without their dumb app. https://pasteboard.co/K25XzF1.jpg should work, it’s the top breaker.

Protip the awful app has a magic imgur upload button. You just can't then delete it. At least on Android it does.

slave to my cravings
Mar 1, 2007

Got my mind on doritos and doritos on my mind.
What’s the best way to deal with spiders/silverfish/centipedes in a basement? It doesn’t seem like an entrypoint type of problem as it is they are probably breeding somewhere in the walls. Anyone have a preferred non-toxic trap or something? I have a dehumidifier in the basement already to reduce moisture.

slave to my cravings fucked around with this message at 13:25 on May 16, 2021

Vintersorg
Mar 3, 2004

President of
the Brendan Fraser
Fan Club



H110Hawk posted:

Protip the awful app has a magic imgur upload button. You just can't then delete it. At least on Android it does.

That thing breaks all the time. I hate using it.

Qwijib0
Apr 10, 2007

Who needs on-field skills when you can dance like this?

Fun Shoe
Postimages.org works fine on mobile too

BigPaddy
Jun 30, 2008

That night we performed the rite and opened the gate.
Halfway through, I went to fix us both a coke float.
By the time I got back, he'd gone insane.
Plus, he'd left the gate open and there was evil everywhere.


Vintersorg posted:

That thing breaks all the time. I hate using it.

It usually works if I am using it to post an image I just took from my camera, image on my phone can be hit and miss.

the holy poopacy
May 16, 2009

hey! check this out
Fun Shoe
so uhhh

any idea what the gently caress this barbed wire is doing down here? this doesn't really seem like standard plumbing practice

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

It's being used as a clamp because they didn't have any clamps on the truck/at home.

You should really address that main inlet where the wire has dug through the rubber boot. I seem to recall those boots can be bought separately and changed.

(and replace that mess with proper pipe clamps obviously)

biceps crimes
Apr 12, 2008


I have a back metal porch covering that's pretty old and rusty, any ideas on extending the life of this? There's also a spot that leaks a little bit when it rains heavily.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

gay_crimes posted:

I have a back metal porch covering that's pretty old and rusty, any ideas on extending the life of this? There's also a spot that leaks a little bit when it rains heavily.


Wire wheel all the rust off, spray with a rust converting primer, paint? Sounds like a pretty terrible job tbh

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.
Contractor finally let us know that we have approved permits for our porch/deck :toot:

Took almost 4 weeks because (apparently) the city was grilling the contractor about load calculations for the roof support beams. He claims nobody's ever asked him that for a porch, so either the city had someone new reviewing it or someone's porch roof just recently collapsed so they're giving extra scrutiny. Maybe another possibility is that with material shortages contractors are trying to cheap out and sneak under-engineered stuff past the city, so maybe this is a way to hold their feet to the fire.\

Now maybe stuff will start to slowly move. Dude's already griping about material issues, of course, with his example being that on another project a supplier just shorted him 50 boards of OSB without telling him, so he had to hit up 4 different local stores to scrounge enough to finish.

baby's first big project is finally moving. Original estimate was 4-6 weeks from start, but drat at this rate we'll be lucky to have it done by labor day :sigh:

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

do you guys have any thoughts on estimating insurance coverage in case of a total loss?

I'm in a condo with a "bare walls" policy - basically my personal property, as long as permanent things attached to the walls like cabinets, countertops, flooring, etc. are not covered.

I have 75k right now, and I have a small place with not a lot of stuff. It's easy for me to think of replacement cost for personal items, or some items that I've had replaced already (like flooring), but for other stuff I find it to be more difficult.

for a galley kitchen, I'm guessing 15-20k for all fixtures, plus appliance costs

hvac and water heater is probably like 12k (I just had all of those replaced)

my flooring was about 5k

but there's other stuff I'd have no idea about, like replacing walls and ceilings, soffits, ductwork, etc.

Bingo Bango
Jan 7, 2020

Need some goon flooring advice:

After chasing around a bunch of different contractors to remove the mismatched, exceedingly ugly, wall-to-wall, peel-n-stick vinyl tile and refinish the hardwood underneath, we finally found a guy who could get it done before we move in. Except it turns out he actually cannot get it done because his team won't be able to sand off the adhesive? Or something? (Dude was highly recommended and super professional when we met, but all of this has been conveyed through cryptic texts to me today). I'm currently waiting to hear if the issue is the sanding or if the adhesive has damaged the hardwood underneath too extensively to be saved.

So, now we're stuck with lovely looking floors a week out from when we're supposed to move in and my wife is adamant that we deal with them ASAP, that is how much she hates it. Our options currently are:

1. Wait until mid-July, which is the earliest our first-pick contractor could schedule them for. I guess we'll only sort of unpack for a month and a half and deal with dust all over our stuff when it's done?
2. Say gently caress it and give up on the hardwood, instead installing something decent looking ourselves, like laminate plank. Bonus of this is that it'll probably be cheaper than getting the floors refinished and we can always pull it up later and try again. In a perfect world, we'd just slap it on over the vinyl but I don't know how realistic that is.

I'm really torn, because my instinct is to do it right the first time but I also just want to get this done with the minimum amount of mess or fuss so I can move on to the billion other projects needing my attention.

The master bedroom floors, for reference:

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

Bingo Bango posted:

Need some goon flooring advice:

After chasing around a bunch of different contractors to remove the mismatched, exceedingly ugly, wall-to-wall, peel-n-stick vinyl tile and refinish the hardwood underneath, we finally found a guy who could get it done before we move in. Except it turns out he actually cannot get it done because his team won't be able to sand off the adhesive? Or something? (Dude was highly recommended and super professional when we met, but all of this has been conveyed through cryptic texts to me today). I'm currently waiting to hear if the issue is the sanding or if the adhesive has damaged the hardwood underneath too extensively to be saved.

So, now we're stuck with lovely looking floors a week out from when we're supposed to move in and my wife is adamant that we deal with them ASAP, that is how much she hates it. Our options currently are:

1. Wait until mid-July, which is the earliest our first-pick contractor could schedule them for. I guess we'll only sort of unpack for a month and a half and deal with dust all over our stuff when it's done?
2. Say gently caress it and give up on the hardwood, instead installing something decent looking ourselves, like laminate plank. Bonus of this is that it'll probably be cheaper than getting the floors refinished and we can always pull it up later and try again. In a perfect world, we'd just slap it on over the vinyl but I don't know how realistic that is.

I'm really torn, because my instinct is to do it right the first time but I also just want to get this done with the minimum amount of mess or fuss so I can move on to the billion other projects needing my attention.

The master bedroom floors, for reference:


My instinct would be 2 - you're going to pay a massive premium if you want this done quickly, and apparently all the trades are still slammed with work from COVID. If you can kick this down the road a year or two, you might be able to get much better pricing.

Is this a kitchen? If not, will a big area rug work?

Bingo Bango
Jan 7, 2020

Reassuring advice, thank you!

And while the kitchen does also have vinyl tile in it, that's actually the one room we're not touching yet since the next project is gutting it and putting in new everything. No, this is for the living room, hall, two bedrooms, and home office.

BadSamaritan
May 2, 2008

crumb by crumb in this big black forest


Is that an older home? Is there a chance those are 9x9 asbestos tile? If so, that would explain why a contractor is hesitant to sand off the adhesive. I know there are resources to get the tiles tested, which might change their mind or leave you now with disclosable asbestos.

A lot of buildings around here have it and most contractors will just install new flooring over it and not bother.

Bingo Bango
Jan 7, 2020

Home was built in the early 1970s and the tiles can't be more than 10-15 years old - the previous owners left extra boxes of them in the basement.

I think I'm just going to install the new floor, any brands you guys recommend? Looking for pretty much anything other than the hideous grey-washed look that's clogging up pinterest currently.

Phil Moscowitz
Feb 19, 2007

If blood be the price of admiralty,
Lord God, we ha' paid in full!

Motronic posted:

Fiberglass insulation isn't the best for sound. Other than actual acoustic insulation which I've seen a few times you probably want to specify rockwool rather than fiberglass. IIRC it does about twice as good of a job at slightly over twice the price for materials.

I went with OC thermafiber SAFB mineral wool. The price point was good and I’m not DIY the install so I’m not concerned about ease or irritation. I went and checked out their work, and it’s pretty good, though I can see how roxul/rockwool would cut cleaner around boxes and piping since this stuff is a bit looser, though nowhere close to as loose as fiberglass.

Walking around it’s like a sound stage (walls aren’t up yet). So thanks for this recommendation, it’s much better than fiberglass.

The cost was a bit more but I think we’ll be happier with it done this way.

biceps crimes
Apr 12, 2008


More new home owner question stuff. Is repairing parging a DIY task, or should I hire a mason? Theres a 3 foot long bit out front near a corner that’s got some cracks and a bit has chipped off, and there’s a loose brick near the corner as well. Its the only section of the front of the house that gets rain on it occasionally, the rest of the front has stayed pretty dry in the few heavy rainfalls that have happened since moving in, which explains the disparity and why this corner of the house has a little more wear. The parging and bricks are in good shape around the rest of the house.

I think I may have a tough time having a mason come out for this little work with how hard it is to hire contractors with the current market. I think I’d be up for fixing one loose brick but the parging seems intimidating to me. It’s cosmetic and could probably sit but I want it fixed

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Bingo Bango posted:

Home was built in the early 1970s and the tiles can't be more than 10-15 years old - the previous owners left extra boxes of them in the basement.

I think I'm just going to install the new floor, any brands you guys recommend? Looking for pretty much anything other than the hideous grey-washed look that's clogging up pinterest currently.

Yeah, it just clogs the poo poo out of the sander so you're changing belts all the time.

Phil Moscowitz posted:

I went with OC thermafiber SAFB mineral wool. The price point was good and I’m not DIY the install so I’m not concerned about ease or irritation. I went and checked out their work, and it’s pretty good, though I can see how roxul/rockwool would cut cleaner around boxes and piping since this stuff is a bit looser, though nowhere close to as loose as fiberglass.

Walking around it’s like a sound stage (walls aren’t up yet). So thanks for this recommendation, it’s much better than fiberglass.

The cost was a bit more but I think we’ll be happier with it done this way.

That's awesome. Glad you're happy with it and that I could point you in the general direction of a solution you liked better.

B-Nasty
May 25, 2005

gay_crimes posted:

More new home owner question stuff. Is repairing parging a DIY task, or should I hire a mason?

Definitely DIY. Like you said, a mason probably won't get out of bed for a job that doesn't pay at least $1000.

Parging is like icing a cake. Expect to spend some time learning as you go.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

My hideous bathroom tile that was the color of my dog's vomit (it was some orange/yellow/brown mix, and was also cracking) is finally gone, they are finishing putting in some dark gray matte tile and a new toilet today!

still need to update those cabinets but this will be a big improvement

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falz
Jan 29, 2005

01100110 01100001 01101100 01111010
Nice.. but if updating cabinets did you just go around them, or go fully under them?

Also curious what underlayment was used - Ditra (orange lego floor looking stuff)?

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