|
insta posted:I used my CR10 to print a litter scoop out of some junk PLA I didn't care about. It took 3 minutes to find and slice the model, printed in 4 hours, and I live a 12 minute drive from a pet store (so, lets say 20 minutes round-trip). Now, please tell me: I like to factor in the self satisfaction of having made the thing yourself. Feel free to weight that however you like.
|
#
?
May 18, 2021 23:38
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 13, 2024 00:16 |
|
|
If you go with a Prusa it seems to work well enough with just the textured sheet. I am firmly in the category of "I want to print things, not have to gently caress around with my printer to get it working well" so I completely understand if you want the hobby to be 3D printing and not using a 3D printer to help out your other hobbies. I wanted to reliably print stuff basically right away to make other hobbies easier/more organized and don't need a giant build plate (yet lol) so this is what I went with. So far so good!
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 00:24
|
|
|
The talk of printing threads reminds me: is there much use of alternate threadforms for printed threads? triangular thread profiles assume metal or a proper engineering plastic, something like acme/trapezoidal or particularly round/knuckle threads seem to be a much better fit for the constraints and realities of FDM/resin printed threads. In the cases you can use buttress threads, for example, you can increase the effective strength of a given screw by almost 50%, which could offer at least as much help as using a high-end expensive engineering feedstock will. Round threads are also quite tolerant of dirt/debris in the threads, which seems handy for soft threads- they seem to immediately start grinding themselves into a fine dust that rapidly increases the couple friction, already quite high compared to an equivalent metal fastener b/c of the printed material choice and surface finish. Even altering the characteristics of triangular threads might help improve screw performance- by changing thread engagement, rounding off the point of the threads, etc. in any case, printed threads generally seem 'pretty lousy', but I'd think a good portion of that is due to the design parameters no longer reflecting the material/manufacturing process' needs.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 01:32
|
|
|
Acme threads work really well in my experience 3d printing parts. But keep the functionality in mind--in my case I was printing a piston, which is exactly what acme threads are intended for (motion/force transfer, not fastening). If you have a Machinery's Handbook you can look up each thread type and their intended use, then look up the "strongest" thread form for your intended use case. Edit: look up Whitworth thread profiles and give them a shot. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 01:54 on May 19, 2021 |
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 01:46
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:I just wanna make sure that newbies, who don't know any better, don't start freaking out about whether a given printer is too slow or too small. For the vast majority of cases, all the usual recommendations will be perfectly fine. Reliability is the most important feature. For what it's worth, I was arguing a few pages ago that the MINI+ was probably too small because someone was asking specifically about 3d printing for electronics projects enclosures. I find a 220x220mm bed to be somewhat limiting for that specific purpose, so I definitely thought size was worth considering in that case. An extremely reliable machine that doesn't do what you need it to do isn't terribly useful. That said, I feel like a big problem with getting people into 3d printing is that most newcomers don't necessarily have a use case in mind. Almost everyone I know in real life who's bought a printer over the last couple of years really just wanted a toy, and it's tough to recommend spending $500+ on something that may see very little use. I usually default to cheaper options like Ender 3s because they work reasonably well out of the box, even without spending a few bucks on upgrades. I bought another V2 for paid work about a month ago and it's been running reliably almost 24/7 with no changes except stiffer springs and an aluminum extruder arm. But yeah, if you're coming into this hobby saying "I need to print x or y parts to specifically support some other hobby or work" then it makes sense to spend more money, as long as you understand that the cost difference is probably only going to save you a few hours of headaches here and there.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 02:07
|
|
|
biracial bear for uncut posted:Acme threads work really well in my experience 3d printing parts. that's always good advice, yeah. "soft metals" are cited as their very own use case for round threads, which is what got me wondering about using something non-triangular more broadly. i was thinking about modifying some standard mcmaster-carr fasteners to create a round thread fastening system and seeing how that stacks up printed alongside the same unmodified fasteners for general fastening; my assumption is that the material differences (dramatically-higher friction coefficient, for one) would let a thread profile that's not normally suited to fastening perform acceptably. no idea if that's borne out, though. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 02:18 on May 19, 2021 |
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 02:16
|
|
|
BMan posted:I don't understand why creality doesn't make an ender 3 model that's... good? out of the box The Ender 3 V2 seems to have 95%+ the print quality of the latest Prusa i3? Maybe I'm missing something? At $270 shipped with 0.25kg filament that's a screaming deal Add the yellow springs and the BLTouch and you're right at $299.99 shipped Somebody pointed to the phone support, I dunno if that's worth $700 to me, but it's obviously worth that to some people. I personally would rate myself "above average" in mechanical ability, YMMV, but I would value phone support at $50-100. There's so many YouTube videos though it's hard to imagine the value of phone vs literally 1000 video tutorials I guess at some point I'll need to upgrade or replace my extruder/arm, I'll cross that bridge when I get there. In the meantime all the old-timer RC boat guys are extremely impressed with my 3D printed boat, and everybody in the boat printing community seems to be using a creality product Prusa is undoubtedly "the best" but the Delta between Prusa and the latest crop of creality seems to be very small
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 02:18
|
|
|
The prusa mk3s+ is definitely the luxury car of printers. It had some wonderful QoL improvements, direct drive, auto leveling on another .. ahem .. level, collision detection, flawless pausing and resume, auto filament loading and unloading, stealth mode, live z adjust, and a bunch of other things I’m forgetting. Do you need all that, probably not but it’s a drat dream to have. But “these two printers print benchys pretty much the same” isn’t really saying anything. A Toyota Corolla will get you from point A to point B the same as a Grand Cherokee Limited but they are by no means almost equal. Of course, if you have no interest in that other stuff then it’s not worth paying for. But the Prusa is by far the most reliable and easy printer in my fleet.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 03:20
|
|
|
I love how you used the example of a reliable car contrasted with a Jeep as a comparison on reliable appliances
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 03:31
|
|
|
Paradoxish posted:For what it's worth, I was arguing a few pages ago that the MINI+ was probably too small because someone was asking specifically about 3d printing for electronics projects enclosures. I find a 220x220mm bed to be somewhat limiting for that specific purpose, so I definitely thought size was worth considering in that case. An extremely reliable machine that doesn't do what you need it to do isn't terribly useful. To be fair, all the projects I want to do wouldn’t require a box any bigger than 200mm on a side. Altoid can projects, really. I just want pre-printed holes. Also, in my heart of hearts, I know I’m just going to end up bootlegging Warhammer 40k minis and making DND figs for all my friends.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 03:50
|
|
|
insta posted:I love how you used the example of a reliable car contrasted with a Jeep as a comparison on reliable appliances I would like the Nissan Altima of 3D printers, please.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 03:54
|
|
|
meatpimp posted:Prusa has a note that adding both sheets to a MK3S+ order puts it into customs-tax territory, so I'll be just getting one. Does it make a difference which one to get first? I'm stuck in heated-glass-bed / ABS world, so I don't have familiarity with the current filament materials. oh btw on this get the smooth sheet first. it's the general purpose one and parts stick better to it. the textured sheet is explicitly designed to reduce adhesion when printing filaments like PETG, which will adhere to the bed so strongly that it damages the surface. you can still print PETG on the smooth sheet fine by using glue stick or windex on it first. Marsupial Ape posted:I would like the Nissan Altima of 3D printers, please. yeah the Enders are like your Nissans and Chryslers and stuff and the Prusa is like a fully loaded Acura. They all get you from point A to B just fine. The Acura costs three times as much, it still isn't the fastest car or the biggest or the most anything, but it has all the nice features that make it pleasant to drive and it will probably go 200,000 miles without anything breaking. The cheaper cars will probably also work fine, and most people have no problems with them, but the experience isn't as luxurious and you're more likely to have random problems pop up occasionally. You decide what fits your needs. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 04:21 on May 19, 2021 |
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 04:14
|
|
|
InternetJunky posted:I dont't know if there's a regular fast grey but I use the abs-like fast grey for my printing. On my mars2 pros I use the following settings: Oof. Must be something on my end then, I'm at 2.4 per layer. That said I am running 10% tenacious so that's probably increasing my layer times.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 05:00
|
|
|
Basically prusa is great if you have the money to throw at it, if you don't, cheaper printers will work but you are going to end up having to learn about printing and tweaking moreso than if you had bought a prusa in the first place. Currently, the "best" all around entry level printer seems to be the ender 3 v2. Anything bigger than that is just the same or similar setup, but a bigger bed and all the joy and pain that entails. I say that as a chiron owner cause I wanted the option to print huge poo poo compared to a regular printer, without having to glue or solder poo poo together. If you are going to go the mini route though, it might be worth looking into a cheap resin printer. Minis are fairly easy to print in resin and there's not exactly a large setup cost besides the cleaning setup or curing setup you want to use, and that is completely dependent on you and what you feel like doing. There was one on amazon a few weeks back that was on sale for like $100. Uncle Jessy did a review of it. Tiny print area, but for minis that's not exactly a deal breaker.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 05:05
|
|
|
I was considering filling a print's insides with resin, but I am a bit worried about the heat it would give off as it cures & worried it would distort the dimensions or something as a result of getting soft as it heats up. Has anyone been-there-done-that for infusing prints with resin for added strength? Any concerns about the heat from curing being a problem?
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 05:50
|
|
|
Resin and plaster can get pretty hot, but if you are talking about an fdm print, why not just do sand or lead shot or something? No heat to worry about and it's easily added after you get the print finished up.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 06:09
|
|
|
Doctor Zero posted:The prusa mk3s+ is definitely the luxury car of printers. It had some wonderful QoL improvements, flawless pausing and resume, My ender 3 v2 does this out of the box? Was this a headline feature at some point? The list of Prusa-only features is getting smaller and smaller Marsupial Ape posted:I would like the Nissan Altima of 3D printers, please. *Pulls back curtain* welcome to the Creality showroom *bows*
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 06:10
|
|
|
Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Resin and plaster can get pretty hot, but if you are talking about an fdm print, why not just do sand or lead shot or something? No heat to worry about and it's easily added after you get the print finished up. Rather than just adding weight I'm mainly looking to add rigidity, it's a mechanical part. As it is, it works okay but I want to experiment with a cost-effective way to make it stiffer. I know epoxy gets hella hot, but was thinking maybe some of the long-curing-time resins (like 24 hours or something) might not heat up as much? I'm willing to experiment, but it would be nice to get a running (or jogging) start by taking notes from someone who's been there & cursed the mess 
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 06:57
|
|
|
Sorry for the necro:Sockser posted:I'm trying to do something cool with my MMU-- printing a cool skull inside a cool bust Turn “Ensure vertical shell thickness” off. Also, adding fuel to the Creality/Prusa discussion: the fact that Prusa actually has a PAID development team putting time into new Slicer features vs skinning Cura tells you’re they’re doing something right, anyone here using Cura? Didn’t think so.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 07:39
|
|
|
Hadlock posted:My ender 3 v2 does this out of the box? Was this a headline feature at some point? The list of Prusa-only features is getting smaller and smaller Does the showroom also have objects photoshopped at awkward angles on their printers? In the Creality newsletter I constantly receive, the only printer *actually printing* is a MakerBot Replicator 2. https://twitter.com/la3dpr/status/1350514863370498049?s=21
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 08:07
|
|
|
I have almost nothing positive to say about the people who work in online marketing, except that 3d printing enthusiasts, and the people who work in online marketing are wildly different people. My wild-rear end-guess, based only on my own very limited personal experience, is that online marketing people and 3d printing enthusiasts are, in general, of the opposite gender, and don't have much in common, and it doesn't surprise me that 3d printing online marketing people have no idea how to market their product to their intended audience, as the intended audience is so far removed from the typical "Instagram social media influencer" as to be the polar opposite of one That's about as PC as I can get on that. Sorry your marketing images don't meet your particular needs
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 10:27
|
|
|
Hadlock posted:My ender 3 v2 does this out of the box? Was this a headline feature at some point? The list of Prusa-only features is getting smaller and smaller Emphasis on the word "Flawless". Having the feature and doing it well are two different things. Marsupial Ape posted:I would like the Nissan Altima of 3D printers, please. Whatever Robo3D is selling now, probably. Christ, remember those shitboxes?
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 10:53
|
|
|
Marsupial Ape posted:To be fair, all the projects I want to do wouldn’t require a box any bigger than 200mm on a side. Altoid can projects, really. I just want pre-printed holes. Keep in mind that any FDM printer is going to be fiddly at best for printing minis. Be it a Prusa or an Ender 3, you'll need to spend a lot of time tinkering to find settings that you're happy with for 28mm scale figures. A resin printer will be way better for that.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 10:57
|
|
|
Marsupial Ape posted:To be fair, all the projects I want to do wouldn’t require a box any bigger than 200mm on a side. Altoid can projects, really. I just want pre-printed holes. If you're not afraid of putting stuff together, you're pretty certain you're mainly going to print small stuff, AND you have someone who can print a few parts for you first, then gently caress the ender, dive straight into the deep end, and go for a Voron V0 kit. Sure you'll need something else for printing big stuff, but a Voron V0 will be making GBS threads small models out faster than you can decide what to print next.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 13:10
|
|
|
Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Basically prusa is great if you have the money to throw at it, if you don't, cheaper printers will work but you are going to end up having to learn about printing and tweaking moreso than if you had bought a prusa in the first place. FWIW, this is why I recommend the Prusa Mini. The price point isn't far off from an Ender 3 after you do upgrades the Mini comes with. I have had no prints that didn't fit, but I'm working on accessories and things I design myself. I do generally find print area an over valued spec, especially if you're familiar with even the most basic joinery.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 13:22
|
|
|
 incoming:Buying a Prusa is going to a dealership, picking out a car, and buying it. Expensive, but it should work right out the gate, but if it doesn't, you have someone to go back to for help fixing it. Buying an Ender is a project car. Sure it runs, and probably works just fine for now, but you gotta start working on it and fixing things before the weak points (ex: springs and extruder) start to fail. And you only have internet weirdos and youtube videos to help figure everything out. Eventually you end up with a smooth running machine, hopefully. Or spare parts for the next project car. I like to tinker with the printer almost as much as using it to print So yeah. the big difference to me is what you save in money you pay in time not printing. With a side effect of learning a bunch of stuff. Thats what I got into the "hobby" for. Being able to get a cool or useful plastic doodad once in a while is pretty cool too.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 14:22
|
|
|
insta posted:I love how you used the example of a reliable car contrasted with a Jeep as a comparison on reliable appliances Jeeps are reliable!  they don't leak oil, they are self-lubricating.  At least I didn't say Range Rover But seriously it was the first thing I could think of that has different capabilities at the time. Replace with any 50,000+ car. Hadlock posted:My ender 3 v2 does this out of the box? Was this a headline feature at some point? The list of Prusa-only features is getting smaller and smaller As biracial said, it's not about Prusa exclusives, it's about the features being implemented in a way that makes them work very well. On my Enders I have had an 80% success rate of the resume feature working correctly. Filament run out and resume works well usually, but other cases can be iffy. The Prusa also has crash detection and resume, whereas an ender will just plow the part off the plate. Also the Ender won't cool down the hot end - it just sits there baking the filament until you notice it needs to resume. Short version is I have and love both, but they are really two different classes of printers.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 14:29
|
|
|
The Eyes Have It posted:Rather than just adding weight I'm mainly looking to add rigidity, it's a mechanical part. As it is, it works okay but I want to experiment with a cost-effective way to make it stiffer. SuperSlicer (maybe others, definitely this one) has an infill called "randomized rectilinear" that would be perfect for this. It intentionally makes a ratsnest that a resin can seep through easily. Check out TASK-series urethanes from Smooth-On, to pour into your part. You'll probably want to seal the inside with a thin rotocast of SmoothCast 65D or paint the outside with XTC-3D to protect against leaks. Or, let's talk strong plastics and skip all the mess baybee 
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 17:48
|
|
|
I might be on board for a part to be printed in one of your strong plastics, but I'm going to investigate this resin angle first. Thanks for the tip re: the TASK-series urethanes. (Please PM me something about your rates for serious plastics like PEEK or Ultem or something -- whatever is most rigid. Printing with high-performance plastics is on the table as an option, but I'm checking out messy, cheap options first.)
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 18:00
|
|
|
eltoozero posted:Sorry for the necro: Ah right I never followed up with my “”successful”” prints 1 wall 0% infill Dicey as gently caress https://twitter.com/rottentunagames/status/1395062252705882119?s=21 So then I got to the point of adding enough tiny little modifier meshes to actually support the skull so that I could scale it up (it just barely technically succeeded at this scale, you can see some green spaghetti dangling down his throat, and some in his cheek as well) and then needed to spend a week printing other stuff so it fell off my plate
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 18:03
|
|
|
Tornhelm posted:If you're not afraid of putting stuff together, you're pretty certain you're mainly going to print small stuff, AND you have someone who can print a few parts for you first, then gently caress the ender, dive straight into the deep end, and go for a Voron V0 kit. The thing to keep in mind is that most of the voron kits out there aren't great and there will probably be _something_ that needs replacing. I've got mine up and running now after starting out with the Formbot kit, and so far I've had to replace (these are things I would consider necessary): the SSR with something that's branded and safe The motors (since I ordered during a time when they weren't shipping spec motors, and the off brand ones they shipped don't look so great) Wiring (they didn't send me good flexible wiring) The hotend heater (the one they sent was unbranded and unlabeled, easier to swap in a spare from my prusa than to try and hope it was quality) A bunch of the fasteners (some of the m3 screws you use to hold the extrusions together had out of spec heads that were too wide to fit in the extrusions). Some of the BMG gear parts (the spring was way too stiff, and I replaced the plastic bondtech gear as well because my first one was stripped. Had to sand down the shaft on that to fit as well). makerbeam nuts (they sent some random rectangles of rough aluminum that had been drilled and tapped instead of proper nuts to hold the belts in place) and replaced for less needed reasons: The heatbed (the one formbot shipped might have been ok, but it was rough and ugly and when I looked at the cost of picking up some taps to add the grounding points and other things I wanted it was about the same price to buy a nicer bed elsewhere) v6 hotend (replaced with a dragon hotend since that's the hot option, and needed for the v0.1 DD toolhead) Bits of acrylic to fit the v0.1 tophat z motor (swapped from the belt driven v0 z axis to the integrated leadscrew on the v0.1). Bottom/back panels (because I wanted the white instead of the black). Overall I'm pretty happy with the kit but definitely be prepared to replace some stuff. Still a pretty good value in the end I think, and not for the faint of heart because this is a complicated build. I'd wait until v0.1 kits are out (if they aren't already) though, they're a lot easier to assemble with the new z axis and 24V bed even if you stick with a bowden toolhead. Fast as hell though, I'm tempted to replace my mk3s with a v1.8 or 2.4 now. 
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 18:14
|
|
|
Some thoughts on the new Anycubic Wash N Cure v2 (regular sized) vs the Anycubic Wash n Cure v1 Many great improvements:  - Wash bucket is quite a bit taller even though the machine is pretty close to the same size - Wash bucket can have the lid on while in the machine - Bucket has guides to align the basket while dropping it in - Can run a wash cycle without the cover on (but not cure, understandably) - Easy to wash a build plate without needing annoying adapters for each style plate - Cure platform has bumps to keep prints from sliding off - Reflective sheet under the cure platform for getting UV to the bottom of a print (I had rigged up something similar for my v1) - MUCH easier to drop the cure platform on the spindle - The free-form timer is awesome and goes up to 60 minutes (I put filters in the basket and run a long wash cycle to clean the IPA) Not so great:  - the LED for the wash / cure selector button is inset so you have to bend over to see it, or have the machine on a high surface - the timer knob is very sensitive and just pressing it to start the cycle often changes the timer (only by 1 minute) What the gently caress were they thinking? - the wire basket has narrow metal upper supports presumably for a build plate that make it really loving hard to get large/long/multiple prints/full plates into and out of the basket. This is further inexplicable because they also give you a nice wire support for build plates that fits on top of the basket, making the goddamn narrow supports completely superfluous. I am probably going to take bolt cutters and cut the drat supports off, although it pains me to deface a brand new machine. Overall conclusion: Well worth getting, especially if you won't be washing large prints. Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 18:38 on May 19, 2021 |
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 18:32
|
|
|
Tornhelm posted:If you're not afraid of putting stuff together, you're pretty certain you're mainly going to print small stuff, AND you have someone who can print a few parts for you first, then gently caress the ender, dive straight into the deep end, and go for a Voron V0 kit. Building a Voron... is... a big ask. it shouldn't be anyone's first printer. My V0.0 is literally 18" from me, but hasn't been serialed yet. Thankfully they've fixed most of my complaints with both the V0 design, and the V0 manual with the V0.1 revision. (it's almost like they took my list of critiques and just implemented them all. It was fun to see that.) I also think building a $500-700 120mm^3 printer that will live printing minis... is really.. a poor choice. If most of what Mr Marsupial is gonna be making if 40k and other mini's... a cheap resin printer is the place to go. It'll make "big things" more expensive, but "the most common print" will be optimized for. Dr. Despair posted:The thing to keep in mind is that most of the voron kits out there aren't great and there will probably be _something_ that needs replacing. I've got mine up and running now after starting out with the Formbot kit, and so far I've had to replace (these are things I would consider necessary): My kit was "before the rush" and is pretty good. - I got a Omron SSR on a breakout board. - VDO motors, with Voron logos. - I got some oddly packaged, but entirely good to use high strand count silicone wire. - A dozen or so short of m3x6 BHCS - The same little rectangles... but I believe they're steel. I got enough, but about 12 were not tapped right. - Had to grind down the setscrew on the BMG gears to clear the printed enclosure. I had (or chose) to buy: - Better wire, so I could color code. - a C14 plug socket. - 603 flanged bearings for the A and B return pulleys. - M3x6mm BHCS - M2x10 self tappers with a button head. (cap head wont' clear some bits for things like the Z end stop) - Bought mini OLED display and control panel. - Adhesive wire mounting blocks and zip ties. - 1/4" spiral cable wrap. Things I did... - Printed a separator panel between the print volume and the motor volume - Printed a skirt mounted C14 switched inlet. - Printed the mini front display for the printer. Why is my printer different? I have a V0.0. This is.. the first release version. It's got problems. Important parts, are with the V0.1, they switched to an all DC design, moved the extruder to the print head, and went to a integrated leadscrew Z motor. quote:Overall I'm pretty happy with the kit but definitely be prepared to replace some stuff. Still a pretty good value in the end I think, and not for the faint of heart because this is a complicated build. I'd wait until v0.1 kits are out (if they aren't already) though, they're a lot easier to assemble with the new z axis and 24V bed even if you stick with a bowden toolhead. Fast as hell though, I'm tempted to replace my mk3s with a v1.8 or 2.4 now. I'm real happy with my bought, not built, voron legacy. It's mostly a 1.8. And it's hilariously fast too. So, now we're back to "should someone tell someone to build a voron." That answer is almost never. This is a point of issue with the Voron group. They don't want the ender or prusa buyer. They want the person who's got real, nuanced, opinions about the dozen printers they've done lots of work on, and that want to build the best there is. At least that's the impression I get.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 19:26
|
|
|
A voron is definitely a project vs an actuay dollar value recomendation. I'm building a 0.1 and for the money you could definitely look elsewhere. Im mainly getting into it as a small/fast adorable printer project
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 19:52
|
|
|
w00tmonger posted:A voron is definitely a project vs an actuay dollar value recomendation. Well, you won't do better for the money. But you are definitely putting sweat equity into it. To do a voron right, you end up being most of a SME. Tell us about yours? Share some pictures?
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 19:57
|
|
|
Ok, then, what’s a good beginner resin printer?
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 19:57
|
|
|
Nerobro posted:Well, you won't do better for the money. But you are definitely putting sweat equity into it. To do a voron right, you end up being most of a SME. It's extremely in progress because I forgot to order some cut abs for the interior. I'll post some pics of it once things show up today and I get a bunch more done. Couple big still still coming in as well like the a/b motors and the extruder, but so far things are really good. 0.1 instructions seem really solid so far, and the community support has been great  I will say, coming from an ender 3, it's a really good stepping stone to making good parts. I threw a lack enclosure around it, and slapped on a few things like a pei flex sheet, and it made a bunch of really primo parts for the voron
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 20:02
|
|
|
i wanna improve my resin handling tools/methods, so naturally, questions: - microfiber cloths: these are effectively an alternative to hair brushes, right? how do you clean them? iirc someone upthread said they just put them through the washer with no detergent, but i'm kinda leery of doing that with a shared washer where other people's clothes could get damaged or ruined. Also, that doesn't seem to square with the "cure all your resin, even waste resin before it goes in the garbage" rule I try to follow. I guess you could chuck em in alcohol and wring em out, but it's microfibre, I think you'd lose a ton of alcohol from whatever you can't wring out. - scrapers/squeegees: i try to scrape as much resin off the plate + unwashed prints as possible before using any sort of brush or cloth, b/c it's the last stop for being able to usefully reclaim resin into the tank. a rigid scraper is good for the build plate and flat part faces, but a soft one would be ideal for the FEP and for parts with non-flat contours i wanna squeegee. can anybody recommend any tools that have an ideally-sized squeegee 'blade'? everything I can find is a full-sized squeegee for windows etc, closest to what I'd want is grout-smoothing tools with small angled silicone heads that don't look super useful for scraping stuff clean. also i suppose I could roll my own tool, i'd just have to make a mold for the silicone and cast it w a tube of gasket-maker... - tank sifting/filtering: I've heard of the 'cut a comb to fit inside your tank and use it to pull debris out" trick and it works for bigger stuff, but not everything. i've tried to print them but they've been a mess because any sort of fine teeth printed directly on the bed get welded together by the base layer elephant-foot. any tips here? - DIY stuff: any other essential tools I should be printing? I like the tank drainer holders that install directly on the threaded mouth of a resin bottle, but i haven't seen one configured to use mesh/filters in a sensible way and printed mesh filter components can't go fine without everything blurring together. so i'm designing my own, naturally. anything else?
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 20:10
|
|
|
w00tmonger posted:It's extremely in progress because I forgot to order some cut abs for the interior. I'll post some pics of it once things show up today and I get a bunch more done. There's a lot o f talk about white abs not doing the "abs thing" right. I hope that works for you long term. I printed my parts on a PEI coated metal bed with this hilarious setup.  I suppose if I'm sharing that... here's what it looks like now:  Edit: Point of amusement. That is a single pane vinyl window. That is my kitchen oven. And I still get good prints.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 20:17
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 13, 2024 00:16 |
|
|
Ambrose Burnside posted:- scrapers/squeegees: i try to scrape as much resin off the plate + unwashed prints as possible before using any sort of brush or cloth, b/c it's the last stop for being able to usefully reclaim resin into the tank. a rigid scraper is good for the build plate and flat part faces, but a soft one would be ideal for the FEP and for parts with non-flat contours i wanna squeegee. can anybody recommend any tools that have an ideally-sized squeegee 'blade'? Scraper: look at palette knives (for paint), I bought one and never looked back. They have rounded, smooth edges which is real nice for being gentle as long as you're scraping resin from plastic/soft surfaces. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes, I went for one that looked like this to scrape resin: https://www.amazon.ca/SAVITA-Painting-Scraper-Stainless-Spatula/dp/B08S7FMGTJ Printable essential: I use up ends of filament rolls by printing disposable funnels in vase mode. They come in super handy for pouring out & reclaiming resin.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 20:18
|
|