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Bottom Liner posted:I had a doozy of a mechanical on a bikepacking race this weekend. 240 miles in at 1 am I hit a big rock on a long gravel descent, bounced around pretty good, and ended up catching a branch in my wheel. It bent the valve stem about 60 degrees and caused an air leak. We tried to bend it back and the plan was to hopefully add sealant/super glue to hold the leak but the stem snapped. Upon unseating the bead, the inner rubber of the valve stem had popped off in the tire and the root of the stem was pulled down into the hole and was seemingly too big to fit back through or be pushed through the other side (tried using an allen wrench to push it through both ways). Had a 5 hour walk down the mountain that night and it didn't help that it was 40 degrees and I was sweating from the previous 9 mile climb when it happened, so I had to just keep walking to keep from getting hypothermic. Towards the end of trying to fix it I was shaking so bad I couldn't even get the thru axle back in . Currently waiting to hear back from the shop about their plan to extract it. Yikes. Glad you're okay.
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May 19, 2021 06:35
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Bottom Liner posted:I had a doozy of a mechanical on a bikepacking race this weekend.
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May 19, 2021 13:20
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Havana Affair posted:https://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html Here's the Sheldon Brown article on checking the frame alignment and bending it. The string method is how you check the frame is roughly straight. Perfect! That's exactly what I needed. I couldn't figure out a good way to leverage it back into position despite having a pile of lumber right next to my bike stand.
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May 19, 2021 13:58
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spf3million posted:That sounds awful, were you alone? Could you think of a tool that would have helped in that situation, like mini pliers it something? Tried needle nose pliers when I got home but no luck. I wasn’t alone when it happened but I was alone for the walk down, saw a bear and a bobcat which was cool. We had Garmin Inreach devices in case of emergencies though, which is how I got picked up once I was off the mountain.
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May 19, 2021 14:49
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Steve French posted:Drill a hole in it my front derailleur is rubbing the chain at the highest and lowest gear, should i drill a hole in it? ElMaligno fucked around with this message at 15:47 on May 19, 2021 |
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May 19, 2021 15:38
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No!!!! Definitely don't do that! Just use an abrasive disc on an angle grinder to remove the useless extra material on your front mech
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May 19, 2021 17:14
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Whenever my FD gives me problems I just convert it to 1x and buy a new bike
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May 19, 2021 17:50
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:Whenever my FD gives me problems I just convert it to 1x and buy a new bike 
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May 19, 2021 18:41
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Not sure if this is a question for this thread or the MTB thread but here goes. Trying to get my bikes back in shape, and they're ancient. At minimum, my old 2008 (2007?) Epic Expert is in need of a new brake system and probably new drivetrain. I think the derailleurs are fine, but the teeth are pretty worn so it's all (cassette/chainrings/chain) or nothing. Re: Brakes: Per the shop, the bleed isn't holding. The brakes were a tad squishy when I brought them in, and bleeding isn't helping at all. Calipers are in poor shape as well, so all around not good. IIRC this bike shipped with Juicy 7s, so spare parts are supposedly not available (or are probably very expensive). What would be the modern replacement for those? Or at least, what today would be comparable to quality from then? Wouldn't mind a step up, just don't want a step down. And would I need new rotors, or just the rest of the brake system? Re: Drivetrain: This old school 3x9. What should I be looking for for a non-crap replacement for the cassette and chainrings? I know this setup is way out of style so I'm probably stuck with lower end parts, but I'd like to get this back in shape without having to replace the derailleurs and shifters as well. Edit: So it looks like SRAM Level TL is what's currently shipping on the epic experts. This a good option? DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 20:41 on May 19, 2021 |
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May 19, 2021 19:10
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Samopsa posted:No!!!! Definitely don't do that! This sounds complicated and i will take it to the bike shop i bought it this friday
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May 19, 2021 19:19
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I bought a new KMC X10SL chain to fit my big to big gears since I put on a 46-30 front and 11-42 rear. Chain calculator math says I need 113 links. I just stuck it on with all 116 and it seems to work fine and isn't hanging loose on small-small. Is it true that you can't put these type of chains back together if you remove links? I don't want to drop down a few links and be stuck with a too-short chain.
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May 20, 2021 15:53
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FogHelmut posted:I bought a new KMC X10SL chain to fit my big to big gears since I put on a 46-30 front and 11-42 rear. Chain calculator math says I need 113 links. I just stuck it on with all 116 and it seems to work fine and isn't hanging loose on small-small. You can just use a second quicklink if you have to.
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May 20, 2021 17:24
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FogHelmut posted:I bought a new KMC X10SL chain to fit my big to big gears since I put on a 46-30 front and 11-42 rear. Chain calculator math says I need 113 links. I just stuck it on with all 116 and it seems to work fine and isn't hanging loose on small-small.
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May 21, 2021 01:27
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DaveSauce posted:Not sure if this is a question for this thread or the MTB thread but here goes. I have a similar aged bike (2007? Giant anthem) that only gets an outing occasionally I'd be mildly interested in the answer to your braking problem... I have a spare duraace cassette and chain sitting around from ~2010 so drivetrain can probably wait a while my problem is the aging juicy5's that have shitloads of play in the levers. They still have great braking response for now, but eventually one of those levers will give up and I won't be able to get a replacement.
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May 22, 2021 14:23
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Depending on budget, Shimano SLX brakes are a nice sweet spot in price and functionality.
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May 22, 2021 14:31
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Question about Shimano hydraulic breaks: I have a couple cms of slack in the brake lever before the brakes engage. Once they bite they bite hard, but is there a way to adjust them so that the breaks start biting on even the lightest feather of a pull on the lever? The levers don’t go to the bar or anything so I don’t think it’s air. I know there is the tiny screw to adjust the arm position but that doesn’t seem to affect when the engage happens (or maybe I’m an idiot and didn’t do it right). I’ve finally forced myself to switch to one finger breaking but now that I have that first couple of centimeters of play is way more noticeable so anything to make the brake lever more responsive would be nice.
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May 22, 2021 18:39
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God Hole posted:I finally got myself a hitch rack, which ended up being a thule camber 2 felt i would update on this. I lined the threads with loctite red 271 and then capped it off with some JB cold weld epoxy to the excess threads. the top two bolt heads sit flush on the other side, so i applied epoxy there too to reinforce its union to the rack.  after letting it cure, it's basically steel. gave it a good test with a wrench and then a power drill - nothing. light wacks with a hammer don't leave a dent. im pretty pleased with the results. i would caution that if you get this rack and try the same thing, the bottom right bolt needs to be able to swivel in its hole so make sure you focus only on the nut and excess thread. for being like 200 dollars cheaper than the higher-end hanging hitch racks, it's nice that its only real flaw is like a $10 fix e: just a heads up, pretty sure this voids the warranty lol God Hole fucked around with this message at 19:18 on May 22, 2021 |
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May 22, 2021 19:10
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Voodoofly posted:Question about Shimano hydraulic breaks: I have a couple cms of slack in the brake lever before the brakes engage. Once they bite they bite hard, but is there a way to adjust them so that the breaks start biting on even the lightest feather of a pull on the lever? The levers don’t go to the bar or anything so I don’t think it’s air. I know there is the tiny screw to adjust the arm position but that doesn’t seem to affect when the engage happens (or maybe I’m an idiot and didn’t do it right). I’ve finally forced myself to switch to one finger breaking but now that I have that first couple of centimeters of play is way more noticeable so anything to make the brake lever more responsive would be nice. Some of them have a bite point adjust, although it never really does much. You can take the wheel out, depress the lever, then put the wheel back in. This will advance the pistons, but as the pads wear the bite point will go back to the standard position.
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May 22, 2021 19:46
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Voodoofly posted:Question about Shimano hydraulic breaks: I have a couple cms of slack in the brake lever before the brakes engage. Once they bite they bite hard, but is there a way to adjust them so that the breaks start biting on even the lightest feather of a pull on the lever? The levers don’t go to the bar or anything so I don’t think it’s air. I know there is the tiny screw to adjust the arm position but that doesn’t seem to affect when the engage happens (or maybe I’m an idiot and didn’t do it right). I’ve finally forced myself to switch to one finger breaking but now that I have that first couple of centimeters of play is way more noticeable so anything to make the brake lever more responsive would be nice. It's not perfect but I sanded a few mm off my brake bleed spacers (that you put into the caliper in place of the rotor) so that when I bleed the brakes they end up closer to the rotor, giving you less throw by a little bit at the lever. It's a small difference and as mentioned above I think as the pads wear the effect is diminished. e: I also use a galfer front rotor which is a bit thicker than the default shimano ones.
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May 22, 2021 20:51
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Voodoofly posted:Question about Shimano hydraulic breaks: I have a couple cms of slack in the brake lever before the brakes engage. Once they bite they bite hard, but is there a way to adjust them so that the breaks start biting on even the lightest feather of a pull on the lever? The levers don’t go to the bar or anything so I don’t think it’s air. I know there is the tiny screw to adjust the arm position but that doesn’t seem to affect when the engage happens (or maybe I’m an idiot and didn’t do it right). I’ve finally forced myself to switch to one finger breaking but now that I have that first couple of centimeters of play is way more noticeable so anything to make the brake lever more responsive would be nice. When you bleed them, turn the bite adjust screw out as far as you can then bleed then after dealing the system up tighten it back up. This combined with the sanded bleed block should help. To be clear bite adjust is different from reach adjust.
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May 23, 2021 02:57
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funkymonks posted:When you bleed them, turn the bite adjust screw out as far as you can then bleed then after dealing the system up tighten it back up. This combined with the sanded bleed block should help. Do you mean the WAVE ADJUST or whatever? I've played with that for hours and never seem to be able to get that screw to do anything. If there's something I'm missing I would really like to know about it! I've tried bleeding the brakes from both ends with the screw fully in and fully out and nothing seems to be different.
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May 23, 2021 02:59
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2 questions: 1. Does anyone happen to know the sizing for seatpost binding screws for either a Ritchey breakaway or a Ritchey Road/Swiss Cross? Long story but I no longer have these. 2. Once you get a stuck seatpost out (it took a year of riding on the frame on a trainer constantly moving it to get it out), are you supposed to clean out/hone the inside of the frame?
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May 24, 2021 02:42
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It won't hurt to clean it out. You definitely want to grease it. Was the stuck seatpost steel or aluminum? I'm assuming the frame was steel.
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May 24, 2021 06:17
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evil_bunnY fucked around with this message at 08:22 on May 24, 2021 |
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May 24, 2021 08:12
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vikingstrike posted:Depending on budget, Shimano SLX brakes are a nice sweet spot in price and functionality. Voodoofly posted:Question about Shimano hydraulic breaks: I have a couple cms of slack in the brake lever before the brakes engage. Once they bite they bite hard, but is there a way to adjust them so that the breaks start biting on even the lightest feather of a pull on the lever? The levers don’t go to the bar or anything so I don’t think it’s air. I know there is the tiny screw to adjust the arm position but that doesn’t seem to affect when the engage happens (or maybe I’m an idiot and didn’t do it right). I’ve finally forced myself to switch to one finger breaking but now that I have that first couple of centimeters of play is way more noticeable so anything to make the brake lever more responsive would be nice. Shadowhand00 posted:2. Once you get a stuck seatpost out (it took a year of riding on the frame on a trainer constantly moving it to get it out), are you supposed to clean out/hone the inside of the frame? evil_bunnY fucked around with this message at 08:25 on May 24, 2021 |
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May 24, 2021 08:22
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Organic pads are fine ime. No reason to write them off. Quieter with good initial bite.
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May 24, 2021 14:25
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If you're riding less aggro trails resin pads + metallic compatible rotors = braking for days. Your pad life won't be as high but resin pads are cheap, your rotor life will improve and you won't be overheating your hydro fluid (not that there's much of that running metallic on less aggro trails).
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May 25, 2021 00:49
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WELP Bike shop just told me all they have available is Level T brakes. Level TL is unavailable until August, and Shimano SLX is unavailable until September. Spot checked Nashbar and at least they're backordered as well. How bad is the Level T? I didn't get a great impression googling, but would they be better than ~13 year old Juciy 7s (or, as google tells me, "custom Avid Ultimate 7")? Or should I just keep what I have and install them later? Not going to do any hard trail riding until I get back in shape, but would like to keep it usable for neighborhood riding with my kids and possibly hauling a trailer. DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 15:32 on May 25, 2021 |
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May 25, 2021 15:29
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They're fine while they work but the old design is failure prone and even though they supposedly fixed it the new ones don't seem a ton better. Imo run a mechanical for now if you can get a cheap one and wait for good hydros. Keep it for the next time you welp your hydros.
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May 25, 2021 16:25
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We're those the ones where the master cylinder tended to jam from the plunger swelling? Or was that just an issue with the entire lineup? I take that back, nothing is in stock. CopperHound fucked around with this message at 16:34 on May 25, 2021 |
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May 25, 2021 16:28
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Ya master cyl flaw and the caliper eventually fails to retract. The only issue with having a cheapass hydro is you gotta bleed it every time you install it if you bother to internally route it. With a cheap mechanical there's way less hassle. Makes for a better temporary brake.
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May 25, 2021 16:35
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Any new brake is going to be way better than your old avids, basic levels included. the sticking issue as far as i can tell comes from the MC piston and/or seals swelling with age. A rebuild kit is like $30, I had to do it to my guides after like 6 years and 8000+ miles. Bleeding the fluid more often than, uh, twice? probably helps there too. On a related note I have some guide R levers sitting around, only a few months old. Not sure how useful that is for anyone. jamal fucked around with this message at 17:03 on May 25, 2021 |
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May 25, 2021 17:00
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Theres actually a design flaw with levels and guides. We see shitloads of them fail well within the warranty period. We don't even need to include paperwork with our RAs anymore we just call our supplier tell them another SRAM brake seized they give us a RA number and we throw it in the mail.
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May 25, 2021 17:13
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I got my bike back from the shop a couple weeks ago, and the sidewall of my back tire is very lightly rubbing against the cafe lock in one spot on every rotation. Is this something I can fix by deflating the tire and kinda massaging out the high spot, or should I tweak the alignment of my rear wheel using the adjusters?
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May 25, 2021 17:16
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Lmao I asked for price/availability on XT because I'd rather spend more now on nice brakes than do this twice and they just said literally all they have available are the level T and some origin8 vise brakes, which near as I can tell are about the same price. Never heard of them so I'm probably going to stick with the level T for now Edit: might call around too and see if any other shops have stuff. Doubt it, but you never know. Edit again: Don't know why I didn't see this earlier: EvilJoven posted:Theres actually a design flaw with levels and guides. We see shitloads of them fail well within the warranty period. We don't even need to include paperwork with our RAs anymore we just call our supplier tell them another SRAM brake seized they give us a RA number and we throw it in the mail. When they sieze, do they lock up tight? Or can you pry the pads open and limp home? DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 17:43 on May 25, 2021 |
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May 25, 2021 17:33
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You can pry. Maybe they keep refurbing the busted ones and sending em back and brand new ones are actually fixed. I just know they keep breaking even on new bikes it seems.
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May 25, 2021 17:46
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Yeah my thought is I'd be OK taking a gamble on something that's going to be temporary and probably won't be ridden TOO hard. As long as I don't get stranded deep in the
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May 25, 2021 17:57
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Safety Dance posted:I got my bike back from the shop a couple weeks ago, and the sidewall of my back tire is very lightly rubbing against the cafe lock in one spot on every rotation. Is this something I can fix by deflating the tire and kinda massaging out the high spot, or should I tweak the alignment of my rear wheel using the adjusters? Work out if your tyre is actually bulging or your wheel is bent (out of true.) You might be able to do this by just observing it as it spins. Tyres shouldn't bulge, ftr, so if it's that you need to replace it. Either way, if it wasn't doing it before the bike shop had it, ask them about it. They might have installed the wheel a tiny bit skew as well? That would cause more than a spot of rubbing though.
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May 25, 2021 18:05
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Al2001 posted:Work out if your tyre is actually bulging or your wheel is bent (out of true.) You might be able to do this by just observing it as it spins. Tyres shouldn't bulge, ftr, so if it's that you need to replace it. Either way, if it wasn't doing it before the bike shop had it, ask them about it. https://thumbs.gfycat.com/GenuineBeneficialKoodoo-mobile.mp4 The wheel looks pretty true. It looks like the tread / sidewall on the tire "wobbles around", for lack of a better term. It's a Metropolitan Palmbay C1779 in 28x2.00, for reference.
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May 25, 2021 18:24
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Brake saga continued: I think I have a lead on some XT brakes. How big of a dick would I be to ask the shop to install customer parts? especially if they're from a local competitor? I'd just get the competitor to install but they're booked out a month right now...
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May 25, 2021 18:56
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