|
DaveSauce posted:How big of a dick would I be to ask the shop to install customer parts? especially if they're from a local competitor?
|
#
?
May 25, 2021 20:51
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 6, 2024 15:00 |
|
|
Safety Dance posted:The wheel looks pretty true. It looks like the tread / sidewall on the tire "wobbles around", for lack of a better term. It's a Metropolitan Palmbay C1779 in 28x2.00, for reference. Not saying it's not the tyre, but I've never seen a tyre behave like this (others You're probably better off just taking it back to the shop though. This video explains what I mean (along with truing): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6hRnH2S3nng Al2001 fucked around with this message at 21:43 on May 25, 2021 |
|
#
?
May 25, 2021 21:35
|
|
|
I've had to warranty Maxxis tires that had a wobble to them. It's not unheard of.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2021 21:38
|
|
|
I have never seen a WTB that doesn't wobble. That said, check and make sure the bead us seated evenly all the way around.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2021 21:56
|
|
|
Alright, the rubbing seems fixed-ish. I aired down and massaged the bead a little bit in the two spots where it's rubbing. On the first try, I got rid of one of the rubbing points. On the second try, I made them both worse. I think the third try is the charm, but we'll see how it sounds when I take the bike for a ride. If it bugs me, I'll switch to a Schwalbe tire.Thanks for your help, everyone!
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2021 22:48
|
|
|
VelociBacon posted:Do you mean the WAVE ADJUST or whatever? I've played with that for hours and never seem to be able to get that screw to do anything. If there's something I'm missing I would really like to know about it! I have Saints so I grabbed a pick for those. I guess Shimano calls it Free Stroke adjust.  It just pushes the screw into the fluid and displaced a little bit of fluid, which causes the brake pads to move. If you bleed them with the screw out, you will put a tiny bit more fluid into the system, then you screw the screw in and it should push the pads out just a bit which will cause them to grab sooner in the stroke. It isn't night and day but its noticeable on my Saints at least.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2021 23:12
|
|
|
funkymonks posted:I have Saints so I grabbed a pick for those. I guess Shimano calls it Free Stroke adjust. I'll give this another shot when I bleed my brakes before the season starts. Still no announcement from Whistler and I fear it'll be closed all year.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2021 23:14
|
|
|
DaveSauce posted:Brake saga continued: Can confirm that this is not a dick move at all. Given how hard parts are to get right now, anytime someone comes in with the (compatible) part in hand it's a relief.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2021 23:43
|
|
|
squirrelnow posted:Can confirm that this is not a dick move at all. Given how hard parts are to get right now, anytime someone comes in with the (compatible) part in hand it's a relief. I pushed them to give me a lead time on XT and they said about 3 weeks. Or August. Their system claims 3 weeks, but they said they see these ETAs change constantly. I believe it, I've seen it in other industries... supply chains are turbo hosed right now, I just didn't expect to see something like bike parts backordered like this.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2021 12:13
|
|
|
At this point consider any ETA a wild estimate. Realistically you should just pretend those XTs aren't coming, act accordingly, and if they do actually show up then reconsider. Yes I know this means maybe buying two sets of brakes but I've seen a lot of people get completely screwed over by taking these estimates as anything resembling a guarantee.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2021 13:39
|
|
|
Yeah I know, I'm trying to avoid being that guy who brings in parts, so I was hoping this 3 week thing was somewhat grounded in reality so I could give them the sale after all this back-and-forth, even if it took more like 4-6 weeks. All that said, how hard is a hydraulic disc brake install? About the only thing I'm not comfortable with is dealing with actual fluid fill/bleed portion of it. I'm sure I could do it if I had time to sit and fiddle with it, but that is one of the things I'm lacking these days.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2021 14:12
|
|
|
DaveSauce posted:Yeah I know, I'm trying to avoid being that guy who brings in parts, so I was hoping this 3 week thing was somewhat grounded in reality so I could give them the sale after all this back-and-forth, even if it took more like 4-6 weeks. I've installed two sets of XT brakes on bikes in the last year. One came with the lever and caliper not yet connected, and the other was fully assembled already. In both cases, they were pre-bled, but I had to cut the hose and connect the brake levers. It was not particularly challenging, and in both cases I managed to avoid losing enough fluid to need a bleed afterwards. YMMV of course, but I'd suggest just getting the brakes however you can get them. Try the install, and if you need someone to bleed them for you afterwards if you don't want to / feel comfortable doing it yourself, then go ahead.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2021 14:42
|
|
|
DaveSauce posted:All that said, how hard is a hydraulic disc brake install? About the only thing I'm not comfortable with is dealing with actual fluid fill/bleed portion of it. I'm sure I could do it if I had time to sit and fiddle with it, but that is one of the things I'm lacking these days. Just don't do anything like disconnect the hoses if you don't know what you're doing. Also don't unbolt your caliper halves to get the pads out. Somebody did this on my shop floor when I had my back turned for 5 minutes.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2021 15:14
|
|
|
Hydraulic brakes are much easier than messing with cable tensions and barrel adjusters. Bleeding is dead simple especially if you have a kit. When installing, don't pull your brake lever before everything is connected. You'll shoot the plug out of the pre-filled brake hose. Also don't squeeze the lever without the wheel and rotor installed unless you have one of those spacers stuck in the caliper. The calipers don't return to full open, you'll have to gently pry them apart with a screwdriver or something to get the rotor back in.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2021 15:32
|
|
|
Plastic tire levers also work just as well as a screwdriver for pushing pistons back in.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2021 15:44
|
|
|
Cool, that actually sounds a lot easier than I was thinking, thanks!
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2021 15:45
|
|
|
Centering rotors can be a pain, honestly. Just be patient and take your time. You'll eventually get it.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2021 15:59
|
|
|
vikingstrike posted:Plastic tire levers also work just as well as a screwdriver for pushing pistons back in. To add to this, plastic tools are not just a nice to have thing for this, lots of brake pistons are ceramic and you'll crack or chip them with a flathead screwdriver.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2021 16:36
|
|
|
Yeah plastic is a better idea.vikingstrike posted:Centering rotors can be a pain, honestly. Just be patient and take your time. You'll eventually get it. Loosen the caliper bolts, squeeze the brake lever to clamp the brakes on the rotor, tighten caliper bolts, release the brake lever?
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2021 18:08
|
|
|
FogHelmut posted:Yeah plastic is a better idea. This is a good starting point IME, but doesn't fix it all of the time.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2021 18:57
|
|
|
Any of y'all use one of those centering shim tools? Do they work any better than a folded business card?
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2021 19:31
|
|
|
bicievino posted:Any of y'all use one of those centering shim tools? Do they work any better than a folded business card? I ordered some that showed having a handle like a folding knife, so there was something I could hold with my dirty fingers instead of touching the shim and contaminating my pads, but what showed up was just the shim. So no better utility than the biz card. Maybe a bit easier to slip in cuz the shim is thinner.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2021 19:53
|
|
|
I thread. I got my bike ready for the year but when I was pulling the pump nozzle off I broke the top part of my Presta valve. It's still holding the air but I'm not sure if I'll be able to put anymore back into it. I'm looking for a new tube and uh, this is confusing. I don't know anything about this. What's labeled on my tire is: 35-622 (700X35C-28X1 5/8 x 1 3/8) K1083A-002 (tire model I think) I searched for that and got a bunch of different combinations of those numbers but no tube listings with all of those exact numbers. Which set of numbers should I be most concerned with?
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2021 21:43
|
|
|
700x35C. You'll usually find tubes that fit ranges of tire sizes. It'll be expressed like "700 x 28-35".
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2021 21:48
|
|
|
Some tubes come with a removeable valve core that you can replace, but also its a good idea to keep spare tubes around.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2021 23:08
|
|
|
It's not uncommon for the tops of presta valves to get a little bent. Sounds like yours didn't snap off? It's not a huge deal if it's working, but you can usually bend them back carefully with some pliers.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2021 00:18
|
|
|
It snapped off.Safety Dance posted:700x35C. You'll usually find tubes that fit ranges of tire sizes. It'll be expressed like "700 x 28-35". So no matter what other dimensions are listed, as long as it says 700x35(in that range) I'll be ok?
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2021 00:35
|
|
|
Pennywise the Frown posted:It snapped off. There's some chance you have a deep rim, in which case very short valve stems wouldn't poke out enough for you to pump. You can just eyeball your rim against the advertised height of the stem.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2021 01:10
|
|
|
Pennywise the Frown posted:It snapped off. Yep. As kimbo said though, make sure the valve stem is long enough.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2021 01:28
|
|
|
Pennywise the Frown posted:It snapped off. Yeah, the tire dimensions are saying the same thing in different ways. Let's break it down 35-622 - This is the ISO size of the tire. 35mm wide when inflated, 622mm in diameter at the beat seat. 700X35C - 700 is the size in the French system. 700 is theoretically the outside diameter of the tire in mm. 35 is, again, the width. 28X1 5/8 x 1 3/8 -- 28 inches in diameter, 1 3/8 inches wide, and 1 5/8 inches tall, I guess. Everybody's favorite bicycle nerd Sheldon Brown has a lot to say on the matter. https://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html The inner tube is stretchy and flexible and will conform to the inside of the tire. It's pretty forgiving as long as the size is approximately correct. But also, don't forget: vikingstrike posted:Yep. As kimbo said though, make sure the valve stem is long enough.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2021 02:48
|
|
|
Safety Dance posted:Yeah, the tire dimensions are saying the same thing in different ways. Let's break it down Thanks for that. I'll just look for 700X35C then! One with a longer valve.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2021 02:56
|
|
|
"I need a bike tire for an old antique 26" bike." "Oh boy here we go" 
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2021 13:56
|
|
|
EvilJoven posted:"I need a bike tire for an old antique 26" bike." "Oh boy here we go" Ever get a really old CCM in the shop that takes 650C tires except really big? And are also just called 26"? What fun.
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2021 01:11
|
|
|
SimonSays posted:Ever get a really old CCM in the shop that takes 650C tires except really big? And are also just called 26"? What fun. I just picked up a recumbent that uses 24" wheels. Except it seems like 3 different sizes are all called that? Mine appears to be the least common, 600c / iso 520. Yay snowflakes.
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2021 04:15
|
|
|
A customer came in with a 36 spoke wheel with a drum brake. It was some weird rear end size I've never seen in my life. I think it might have been one of those 24s but the markings on the rim were p feint. "It's from an old 4 wheeled bike do you have tires for this? If not can you re lace this to a normal 24" rim?"  "I need an adult."
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2021 04:24
|
|
|
I made a wheel sizer so I can tell the difference between bullshit like 520, 540, 584, 590, and 597 rims. The problem is that you need wheels of known sizes to calibrate it.
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2021 05:37
|
|
|
CopperHound posted:I made a wheel sizer so I can tell the difference between bullshit like 520, 540, 584, 590, and 597 rims. The problem is that you need wheels of known sizes to calibrate it. And then if the total cost to the customer for whatever weird thing is over $50 they just leave and promise to call you back.
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2021 08:34
|
|
|
bicievino posted:Any of y'all use one of those centering shim tools? Do they work any better than a folded business card? I only use the tool to decrease the pad distance and still rely on checking the spacing visually on both the leading and trailing corners/edges of the pads.
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2021 11:24
|
|
|
VelociBacon posted:And then if the total cost to the customer for whatever weird thing is over $50 they just leave and promise to call you back. But they do tend to talk your ear off.
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2021 15:49
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 6, 2024 15:00 |
|
|
If I spontaneously lose the ability to shift to cogs with more teeth halfway through a ride and it went from works perfectly -> you have 2 gears (hardest two), it’s probably a cable issue right? To be clear I have my 11 tooth cog and the one above that to shift between, and have no problems moving between the two, but the lever is completely stuck and will not go past that point. Happened mid hill. Applying too much force to pedals when trying to shift? Shimano groupset, grx 800 series mech levers if it matters.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2021 12:43
|
|
