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tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

I have a Dustopper from Home Depot which I kinda like because it just pops into a 5-gallon bucket, but I'm really interested in the JET separator (also in that $150 range) once I finally have electric out in the dust collector closet. Seems like it's a patent-evading riff on the Harvey dust separator? Seems to work pretty well.

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keep it down up there!
Jun 22, 2006

How's it goin' eh?

Numinous posted:

It did hurt though paying like $140 for something that amounts to probably $40 in plastic.

Yeah this part frustrates me, especially since I would need the XL one which is $320 and still only has a 4 inch port, though I could hack it together I guess.

I found this I may go for

https://www.busybeetools.com/products/portable-cyclone-separator-craftex-cx-se.html
It's only $80 more than the XL Dust Deputy with the current sale and has the right port sizes. I'd need to drive a couple hours to get it though.

Thanks for your help everyone.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
I have a bottle of Howard feed-n-wax beeswax and orange oil. Can I apply that over tung oil finish with steel wool?

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Calidus posted:

I have a bottle of Howard feed-n-wax beeswax and orange oil. Can I apply that over tung oil finish with steel wool?
Yes. I'd let the tung oil cure a week or three first though.

The Spookmaster
Sep 9, 2002

I just came across a crazy good deal on a unisaw but it's 3 phase. I only have 120v in my house. My motor/electrical knowledge is pretty minimal so how complicated/costly would it be to get it running in my shop?

Olothreutes
Mar 31, 2007

You can buy things that turn 240v into 3 phase, the one I see most is a variable frequency drive (VFD) and they run a few hundred dollars. That might be enough extra cost that the saw isn't a good deal anymore though. I'm sure a 120->3 phase version exists but I don't know what the prices on those are.

You definitely have 240 in your home, it's just how the breaker is wired. You could get an electrician to add one pretty easily if there's space in your breaker box.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


I just had a stupid like a fox idea...

Would aspen be materially worse than construction lumber for a work bench?

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Olothreutes posted:

You definitely have 240 in your home, it's just how the breaker is wired. You could get an electrician to add one pretty easily if there's space in your breaker box.

...and if your breaker box is up to code already, e.g. the electrician doesn't tell you "I can't touch anything in this without replacing the entire thing, and since it's too close to your gas meter, we'll have to relocate it, this will be $8k+"

:negative:

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

Leperflesh posted:

...and if your breaker box is up to code already, e.g. the electrician doesn't tell you "I can't touch anything in this without replacing the entire thing, and since it's too close to your gas meter, we'll have to relocate it, this will be $8k+"

:negative:

poo poo where do you live? I just had two meters and boxes replaced and combined into one and moved for a lot less than that.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


CommonShore posted:

I just had a stupid like a fox idea...

Would aspen be materially worse than construction lumber for a work bench?
It would probably be okay if there was enough of it, but the numbers aren't very encouraging. It's soft, weak, and light which aren't great but I think anything 4" thick is probably fine. It looks like it moves alot in drying so make sure it's good and dry.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

It would probably be okay if there was enough of it, but the numbers aren't very encouraging. It's soft, weak, and light which aren't great but I think anything 4" thick is probably fine. It looks like it moves alot in drying so make sure it's good and dry.

I have basically infinity free aspen logs. I think I'll go rough cut and split some in the rough sizes I'd need for a bench soon and stack it up to dry so that if I decide to go that way for a bench I can.

It seems like a lot of work at first glance but froe work is fun and I have all of the right tools and the lumber needed for a work bench is like $400 do :getin:

Kalman
Jan 17, 2010

Could always do a low Roman bench out of an aspen log a la Chris Schwartz.

Squibbles
Aug 24, 2000

Mwaha ha HA ha!
Bolt a bunch of raw aspen logs together then plane the whole thing flat. You'll get an amazing workout and the gaps will add character

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Stultus Maximus posted:

poo poo where do you live? I just had two meters and boxes replaced and combined into one and moved for a lot less than that.

SF bay area, and this means moving the drop, and re-wiring the whole house, which means stucco and/or drywall work, which also means paint. And that price doesn't include the stucco/drywall and paint, but it does presume the re-wiring of a 1200 square foot 1958 house.

keep it down up there!
Jun 22, 2006

How's it goin' eh?

drat that is brutal.

I added my 240 lines myself and it really wasn't hard. Electrical can be scary though so I wouldn't blame anyone for not wanting to do it.
I lucked out in that I wanted the outlets right by the breaker box (basement shop), so I didn't have to deal with actually running the lines around the house.

Since I was turning my entire basement into my new shop I did have an inspector come and verify it was good though. Weirdly enough he only had an issue with some of the 120 lines that were already there. I guess the previous owner/builder used the wrong breakers and he made me change them.
This was free, but it took a few weeks for the city to send him out. I imagine that may depend on your municipality.

Olothreutes
Mar 31, 2007

Leperflesh posted:

SF bay area, and this means moving the drop, and re-wiring the whole house, which means stucco and/or drywall work, which also means paint. And that price doesn't include the stucco/drywall and paint, but it does presume the re-wiring of a 1200 square foot 1958 house.

I am dreading any attempts to add 240 outlets to my garage in the future, I have a 2100 square foot home, 80% is from 1957 and the other 20% is from... no one knows. Probably the early 80s based on the tile?

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Yeah my breaker box is at capacity, original to the house, and there's no main breaker so to do any work in it I have to have PG&E come and pull the meter. I'm confident enough in my ability to run wire safely that I'd totally do my own 220 circuit if the panel was up to code and safe to work in, but it's neither.

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

forums poster

I can't run Romex according to code, because Chicago, so I need to run FMC or full pipe. I desperately need to add a couple dedicated 20A circuits for dust collection and bigger draw tools.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
I dunno what FMC is but I find it weird americans run power lines in pipes and conduits. Assume FMC is something like that.

In my shop I have my 3 phase lines run exposed on the walls. It's a common setup to have the lines visibly run like that. I wonder if our cables are different or what is the reason.

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

His Divine Shadow posted:

I dunno what FMC is but I find it weird americans run power lines in pipes and conduits. Assume FMC is something like that.

In my shop I have my 3 phase lines run exposed on the walls. It's a common setup to have the lines visibly run like that. I wonder if our cables are different or what is the reason.
Most of the US doesn't, just Chicago (Cook County), and the traditionally given answer for why (this doesn't *necessarily* mean it's true) is strong unions who didn't want electrical work to take less labor hours to perform. We also held out against PVC in plumbing for awhile.

That being said, while it's fair to call it overkill, I really miss it now that I've moved away from there. I'm not saying the initial cost justifies it, but the ability to pull wire throughout your home from panel to wherever without opening any walls is really nice. I've got a bunch of ceiling fans with lights just begging to be put on double switches, but I can't just run an extra wire through the conduit and be done in 10 minutes like I could back home.

I will argue it's silly to run unprotected wire in a shop or any other inhabited space though.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
I read up on it and wires in europe are armored with a flexible steel sheel. If there's conduit used between walls, there is plastic flexible conduit that I've seen that you can pull new wires through.

https://www.reddit.com/r/electricians/comments/72p0eb/british_and_european_electricians_do_you_guys_use/

The wires on my walls and most other shops are very sturdy and stiff. I don't really fear damaging them easily.

Numinous
May 20, 2001

College Slice

His Divine Shadow posted:

I read up on it and wires in europe are armored with a flexible steel sheel. If there's conduit used between walls, there is plastic flexible conduit that I've seen that you can pull new wires through.

https://www.reddit.com/r/electricians/comments/72p0eb/british_and_european_electricians_do_you_guys_use/

The wires on my walls and most other shops are very sturdy and stiff. I don't really fear damaging them easily.

That's code in most commercial settings I believe. Certainly in New York. Armored flex conduit is the norm because it's easier to run above drop ceiling. The electricians can just sort of hang it on whatever is available. J hooks or wire loops or something. Not common at all in residential spaces - too expensive. Romex is the norm and the outer jacket is pretty durable. It's run in a hole if you're crossing beams and in between the beams if running parallel.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Leperflesh posted:

Yeah my breaker box is at capacity, original to the house, and there's no main breaker so to do any work in it I have to have PG&E come and pull the meter. I'm confident enough in my ability to run wire safely that I'd totally do my own 220 circuit if the panel was up to code and safe to work in, but it's neither.

Olothreutes posted:

I am dreading any attempts to add 240 outlets to my garage in the future, I have a 2100 square foot home, 80% is from 1957 and the other 20% is from... no one knows. Probably the early 80s based on the tile?

Capacity, as Leperflesh says, is the kicker. If you've got 2 open 15 - 20amp slots, just have a guy, you know a guy right, a licensed guy, plug in a dual breaker and run line to the shop. Actually set the outlet, run the cable back to panel, then install breakers.

That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy


Is there any reason you couldn't scale up a current 15 amp breaker / circuit to 20 amp? I'm just wondering because my shop is entirely on a 15 amp circuit and occasionally with dust collection and a lunch box planer going at the same time I'll trip it but I feel like on a 20 amp maybe that would be less likely. This would be done by an electrician not me.

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

forums poster

That Works posted:

Is there any reason you couldn't scale up a current 15 amp breaker / circuit to 20 amp? I'm just wondering because my shop is entirely on a 15 amp circuit and occasionally with dust collection and a lunch box planer going at the same time I'll trip it but I feel like on a 20 amp maybe that would be less likely. This would be done by an electrician not me.

If the wiring is of high enough gauge to support a 20A circuit, yes. Otherwise, you'll need to rewire it. Don't mess with running a circuit on wire not rated for the current. It'll work perfectly fine until it burns your house down.

That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy


more falafel please posted:

If the wiring is of high enough gauge to support a 20A circuit, yes. Otherwise, you'll need to rewire it. Don't mess with running a circuit on wire not rated for the current. It'll work perfectly fine until it burns your house down.

Yep that's what I figured definitely not going to do it myself as I won't touch anything on the actual panel. I only trust myself far enough to do something like replace a light fixture or switch or plug or something as far as home electric goes. I can probably look into the Romex we have to see if it would support it as the rest of the house seems to be all wired on the same stuff and there are a couple of 20 amp breakers on that panel but that'll be for the electrician to decide next time I need them to come out for something.

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

forums poster

I'm thinking about getting an air filtration system (this Wen one or something similar) but my space is pretty constrained. My shop is in my basement, the ceiling is only about 7' tall, and I'm 6'1", so I'll need to put it in an area that I don't have to walk around regularly. I know they're supposed to go in the center of a space, so I guess I could put it above my table saw.

Has anyone used one of these in a low ceiling shop?

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


I would never recommend anyone take wiring or electricity advice from woodworkers, but luckily the wiring thread has :siren: HOT LIVE SPARKIES IN YOUR AREA!!! :siren: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3090739

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer

more falafel please posted:

I'm thinking about getting an air filtration system (this Wen one or something similar) but my space is pretty constrained. My shop is in my basement, the ceiling is only about 7' tall, and I'm 6'1", so I'll need to put it in an area that I don't have to walk around regularly. I know they're supposed to go in the center of a space, so I guess I could put it above my table saw.

Has anyone used one of these in a low ceiling shop?

I'm about your height and also have a low ceiling shop, although closer to 8' than 7'. I ended up building my own filter system that pulls downward (blue pre-filter) and vents to one side (left in this picture).



The space is small enough (10' x 20') that this does a pretty good job clearing the fine dust out which I've tested with a good dust meter. The fan is an old furnace blower I got for cheap years ago, I think it's in the 13A at 120V range.

I've rebuilt this setup several times over the years as I've moved places and reconfigured my shop. The biggest challenge I've had is figuring out where to vector the exhaust. When it's suspended high enough then a side vent works great because it's over your head, but at head height or below it just sends poo poo flying if you aren't really careful directing and diffusing it.

The Locator
Sep 12, 2004

Out here, everything hurts.





more falafel please posted:

I'm thinking about getting an air filtration system (this Wen one or something similar) but my space is pretty constrained. My shop is in my basement, the ceiling is only about 7' tall, and I'm 6'1", so I'll need to put it in an area that I don't have to walk around regularly. I know they're supposed to go in the center of a space, so I guess I could put it above my table saw.

Has anyone used one of these in a low ceiling shop?

I use one of those (different brand, but probably the exact same thing) in my inside the house shop and I set it up on top of my storage shelf next to a wall. It's maybe 6-8" below the ceiling. I run it in combination with a fan that helps keep the air moving around the room and it seems to work well, it definitely captures a bunch of fine wood dust in the filter.

keep it down up there!
Jun 22, 2006

How's it goin' eh?

I built my own as well. I don't have pics handy, but I made a mobile sanding station on casters and put an old box fan with filters in the base of it. So it's effectively a rolling filter cart.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
I've been looking for a used lathe for a while, and an older rikon 70-100 popped up on Craigslist with an asking price of $250 with no extras. Good value or nah?

The junk collector
Aug 10, 2005
Hey do you want that motherboard?

NomNomNom posted:

I've been looking for a used lathe for a while, and an older rikon 70-100 popped up on Craigslist with an asking price of $250 with no extras. Good value or nah?

I think that's a little high personally but it's a genuinely good lathe. Rikon still sells all the replacement parts if you need them and you can get a bed extension for it later if you want.
The 70-100 is going to require you to change belt positions to change speed though which a lot of people find annoying.

alnilam
Nov 10, 2009

Making a carrying tray out of two 1x8 boards. It's going to be supported by a 1x2 lip around the edges but i wanted a little more support between the two bottom boards too, so I improvised this little dowel joint. I don't have a jig so I drove some small nails part way into board 1, clipped off the heads, then lined the boards up and hammered them together a little bit to mark the spots.



It worked surprisingly well, the glue is drying now and my square shows them as being pretty drat flat together :toot:

I don't have a clamp big enough so we'll see how well this actually holds up though.

Jhet
Jun 3, 2013

alnilam posted:

I don't have a clamp big enough so we'll see how well this actually holds up though.

If you don't have clamps the right size, you can always use wedges to provide that squishing force. It does mean you need a reasonably flat surface to squeeze it, and enough weight on top and a flat surface below to keep it from bowing up when you wedge it tight.

It might be easier to just go pick up some longer clamps at the hardware store, but it's possible without.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


I had to rearrange half my shop but I got my shaper all set up.

It's a much, much chunkier 800lb boi than I thought it would be-the table is huge and flatter than my flattest straightedge. Overall I'm very impressed with the features, and especially the fence-cast iron with aluminum extrusions and micro-adjustable on both sides. Lot's of bells and whistles for the price, especially compared to Grizzly's much more basic 5hp machine at the same price point. I'd heard pretty mixed reviews of alot of laguna's non-bandsaw stuff from several of the salespeople I'd talked to, but it seems great to me. It was manufactured in 2018, so they aren't exactly flying off the shelves, but this is the big 3 phase one so maybe less popular? The machine it's a clone of is backordered until January so I was glad to get it. It's on little mini-casters built into the base which is handy, but I think it would vibrate less if it sat on the ground. I may stick it up on sleepers or throw some sandbags in the cabinet or something.

Sparks started flying when I fired it up with that profiling head in it and I freaked out, but it was just the cutterhead wearing in the rub collar and I've been assured it's normal and will go away, lol. Then I screwed up tightening everything down when I stuck the rub collar on top of the head and it started vibrating like crazy because a collar wasn't perfectly centered. I guess at 7500 RPM, being a tiny bit out of balance makes a big difference. I definitely have a ton to learn about shapers-they are capable of so much but also scary as heck and I really don't have much experience with them. Not sure they are the best machine to teach yourself to use!

Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

I had to rearrange half my shop but I got my shaper all set up.

It's a much, much chunkier 800lb boi than I thought it would be-the table is huge and flatter than my flattest straightedge. Overall I'm very impressed with the features, and especially the fence-cast iron with aluminum extrusions and micro-adjustable on both sides. Lot's of bells and whistles for the price, especially compared to Grizzly's much more basic 5hp machine at the same price point. I'd heard pretty mixed reviews of alot of laguna's non-bandsaw stuff from several of the salespeople I'd talked to, but it seems great to me. It was manufactured in 2018, so they aren't exactly flying off the shelves, but this is the big 3 phase one so maybe less popular? The machine it's a clone of is backordered until January so I was glad to get it. It's on little mini-casters built into the base which is handy, but I think it would vibrate less if it sat on the ground. I may stick it up on sleepers or throw some sandbags in the cabinet or something.

Sparks started flying when I fired it up with that profiling head in it and I freaked out, but it was just the cutterhead wearing in the rub collar and I've been assured it's normal and will go away, lol. Then I screwed up tightening everything down when I stuck the rub collar on top of the head and it started vibrating like crazy because a collar wasn't perfectly centered. I guess at 7500 RPM, being a tiny bit out of balance makes a big difference. I definitely have a ton to learn about shapers-they are capable of so much but also scary as heck and I really don't have much experience with them. Not sure they are the best machine to teach yourself to use!

That is a nice looking machine.

There's some guys on the Canadian woodworking forums that love their shapers, they recommend this book as a resource https://www.amazon.ca/Spindle-Moulder-Handbook-Eric-Stephenson/dp/0854421505 so i thought I'd pass that along.

Squibbles
Aug 24, 2000

Mwaha ha HA ha!
Since shapers are so scary/dangerous isn't there a fair number of people that use auto feed mechanisms for them now? So you don't have to get your hands anywhere near that enormous cutting head... And also for large scale production work I guess.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
It looks like a really fat router table

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Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

I had to rearrange half my shop but I got my shaper all set up.

It's a much, much chunkier 800lb boi than I thought it would be-the table is huge and flatter than my flattest straightedge. Overall I'm very impressed with the features, and especially the fence-cast iron with aluminum extrusions and micro-adjustable on both sides. Lot's of bells and whistles for the price, especially compared to Grizzly's much more basic 5hp machine at the same price point. I'd heard pretty mixed reviews of alot of laguna's non-bandsaw stuff from several of the salespeople I'd talked to, but it seems great to me. It was manufactured in 2018, so they aren't exactly flying off the shelves, but this is the big 3 phase one so maybe less popular? The machine it's a clone of is backordered until January so I was glad to get it. It's on little mini-casters built into the base which is handy, but I think it would vibrate less if it sat on the ground. I may stick it up on sleepers or throw some sandbags in the cabinet or something.

Sparks started flying when I fired it up with that profiling head in it and I freaked out, but it was just the cutterhead wearing in the rub collar and I've been assured it's normal and will go away, lol. Then I screwed up tightening everything down when I stuck the rub collar on top of the head and it started vibrating like crazy because a collar wasn't perfectly centered. I guess at 7500 RPM, being a tiny bit out of balance makes a big difference. I definitely have a ton to learn about shapers-they are capable of so much but also scary as heck and I really don't have much experience with them. Not sure they are the best machine to teach yourself to use!

*does the good lad nod*

That does look beastly impressive. I'd imagine they don't expect too many 1st time shaper buyers to go in for a 3 phase beast like that. Otherwise, you'd think they'd have some sort of tutorial. As far as not flying off the shelves, there's almost no way these things won't last 100 years, so a lot of the time, they just get resold. Be safe, shape on!

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