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Worst case scenario is that your shift cable is already frayed and trapping itself from pulling in more. See if you can see any bad cable sticking out: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ENloDqKxXUQ
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May 30, 2021 13:09
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kimbo305 posted:Worst case scenario is that your shift cable is already frayed and trapping itself from pulling in more. Ty Update: cable was completely hosed. Rode it 30 miles across Missouri to get to the nearest bike shop in Kansas to get some help. Thank god it didn’t snap in the ozarks because I wouldn’t have been able to get through those climbs
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May 30, 2021 18:30
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I carry spare cables because it's relatively cheap insurance, though I haven't heard as many complaints about it on older STI like I have. Detours can be fun on tour if you have the time to spare.
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May 30, 2021 18:38
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It turns out it was not the cable and I need to warranty the whole shifter for reasons?? Also now I need a new 11 speed right brifter which seems very hard to find. This loving sucks
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May 30, 2021 23:18
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Time posted:It turns out it was not the cable and I need to warranty the whole shifter for reasons?? Also now I need a new 11 speed right brifter which seems very hard to find. This loving sucks Did they do sell you a bar end of some sort? I'd be looking to file off the indexes on an old 8-spd if it got me going sooner. Either that or you're gonna have to tie the shift cable to a stick and invent ways to set a few gears.
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May 30, 2021 23:53
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kimbo305 posted:Did they do sell you a bar end of some sort? I'd be looking to file off the indexes on an old 8-spd if it got me going sooner. Either that or you're gonna have to tie the shift cable to a stick and invent ways to set a few gears. My keep moving fix so far is I adjusted the derailleur to the middle of my cassette to give me two medium gears - in Kansas this should let me hang out at 15-16 mph on the big front chainring and I can switch to the small front for what little hills there are here in Kansas. In the meantime I’m probably going to have a set of Ultegra shifters shipped ahead to eastern Colorado (notice I said set because I cannot find a single right 11 speed shifter. Only a set)
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May 31, 2021 00:07
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10 years after having supply and sewer stubs installed in our garage, I finally got around to buying and actually installing a utility sink. I even found all of the required tools, and needed just 1 extra trip to the hardware store for parts. Sewer and supply lines did not even leak. I suspect something will go wrong. I usually gently caress up at least once.
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May 31, 2021 01:48
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Time posted:My keep moving fix so far is I adjusted the derailleur to the middle of my cassette to give me two medium gears - in Kansas this should let me hang out at 15-16 mph on the big front chainring and I can switch to the small front for what little hills there are here in Kansas. In the meantime I’m probably going to have a set of Ultegra shifters shipped ahead to eastern Colorado (notice I said set because I cannot find a single right 11 speed shifter. Only a set) I have the 11spd 105 mech shifters from when I replaced them with Ultegra hydraulic. Happy to drop the right in the mail until your warranty piece arrives. It’s definitely used, so I’m not sure if it’s the best option for you, but it’s there.
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May 31, 2021 04:42
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Until covid is over hoarding bike parts and sending em to people in need is gonna be the norm. I hear logistics is really screwed up to the point where it may never recover to pre covid levels so we might see companies starting to condense their offerings. Maybe this means being rid of 7 different group levels. It's kinda excessive anyway.
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May 31, 2021 04:55
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EvilJoven posted:Until covid is over hoarding bike parts and sending em to people in need is gonna be the norm. I hear logistics is really screwed up to the point where it may never recover to pre covid levels so we might see companies starting to condense their offerings. Yuuuup. This kinda thing is hitting a lot of industries so I expect a lot of compacting of manufacturing.
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May 31, 2021 05:33
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highme posted:I have the 11spd 105 mech shifters from when I replaced them with Ultegra hydraulic. Happy to drop the right in the mail until your warranty piece arrives. It’s definitely used, so I’m not sure if it’s the best option for you, but it’s there. This is extremely cool of you! I think I have a line on something but if it doesn’t work out I’ll shoot you a pm in the next day. Thank you!!!
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May 31, 2021 23:29
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You all know a lot. Any advice on where I can learn some basic maintenance info and advice on a scooter (push kind no motor). This one in specific. My son is really getting into it and hitting a local pump track every day. He is super young so nothing crazy yet but I’d like to keep it running smooth for him as he isn’t going to be the most gentile rider in the world. For what it’s worth I have very basic skateboard knowledge but zero experience with scooters.
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May 31, 2021 23:30
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Voodoofly posted:You all know a lot. Any advice on where I can learn some basic maintenance info and advice on a scooter (push kind no motor). This one in specific. My son is really getting into it and hitting a local pump track every day. He is super young so nothing crazy yet but I’d like to keep it running smooth for him as he isn’t going to be the most gentile rider in the world. Looks like a bmx-style head tube & headset and wheels with push-in sealed bearings (like skateboard wheels). Shouldn't be too tough to do anything to.
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Jun 1, 2021 00:18
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Pretty sure they are just a basic cup & cone headset in most of those. Pretty simple to tear down, lube & reassemble. The wheels are a disposable wear item and come with bearings pressed in already When the headset race is eventually damaged it's normally not worth the pain of doing that job yourself, so it's either bin it or take it to a shop. Edit: guy above me is right, that one linked looks more like cartridge bearings in the headset. They are even easier to replace
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Jun 1, 2021 00:21
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BeastPussy posted:Looks like a bmx-style head tube & headset and wheels with push-in sealed bearings (like skateboard wheels). Shouldn't be too tough to do anything to. Yeah, I assume like skateboard wheels the bearings are sealed so you don’t touch them until you need to replace them/replace the wheel, and just treat the headset like a normal bike, but scooters came into fashion after I was too old to risk looking uncool by messing with them (they looked fun then and still do) so just want to make sure there isn’t anything I’m completely missing.
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Jun 1, 2021 00:22
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For some reason the brake lever on my MTB got overextended and the piston popped out of its gasket/cylinder. I pushed it back in no problem, but now the pads are rubbing on the disk. Anything I can do short of bleeding the brake? I've got a kit but not readily accessible right now. Formula Oro K18 is the brake btw.
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Jun 4, 2021 13:16
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Remove the wheel. Insert a clean plastic tire lever between the pads and pry them apart. Put the wheel back in and pull the lever a few times. Thus should reset the auto advance on the pistons.
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Jun 4, 2021 15:09
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If the piston popped all the way out it definitely needs to be bled. E: If you need a hacky temporary solution: You probably introduced excess pressure into the system when pushing the piston back in. Just crack the bleed port open up top momentarily to vent any excess pressure. That alone might help or might need to be paired with pushing the pads apart as mentioned above. I guess I still am telling you to do a bleed, but a lovely one. CopperHound fucked around with this message at 16:48 on Jun 4, 2021 |
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Jun 4, 2021 16:31
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CopperHound posted:If the piston popped all the way out it definitely needs to be bled. Thanks for adding the edited part, just tried this and it’s definitely rideable for the weekend! Anyways not using this bike on trails at the moment, just tooling around in the city.
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Jun 4, 2021 18:02
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I'm getting a constant low "metallic" noise that I can hear pretty easily when walking my bike. It seems to be coming from the area highlighted. Is it possible the brake is not centered and thus touching the black side on the left, causing this noise?
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Jun 7, 2021 22:57
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actionjackson posted:I'm getting a constant low "metallic" noise that I can hear pretty easily when walking my bike. It seems to be coming from the area highlighted. Is it possible the brake is not centered and thus touching the black side on the left, causing this noise? Spin your wheel and look to see if your rotor is true. If it's not true, take it to the LBS for a truing. If it is true, do this https://www.roadbikerider.com/how-to-fix-disc-brake-rubbing-d3/
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Jun 7, 2021 23:47
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I bought a straight steerer rigid fork (2014 salsa firestarter steel) and want to gently caress around with my mountain bike. It currently has a tapered suspension fork. Is there a proper way to make it work? I don't have a crown race on the rigid, so that's probably my first step. This is the mtb https://salsacycles.com/bikes/archive/2015_el_mariachi_3_light_blue Cane creek 10 is the headset. Could it be as easy as finding a matching bit? I'm a bit out of my element with headsets. Eg https://www.jensonusa.com/Cane-Cree..._4aAnYWEALw_wcB
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Jun 8, 2021 02:56
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Cannon_Fodder posted:I bought a straight steerer rigid fork (2014 salsa firestarter steel) and want to gently caress around with my mountain bike. It currently has a tapered suspension fork. Is there a proper way to make it work? I don't have a crown race on the rigid, so that's probably my first step. So your headset is tapered, meaning the lower race has a larger diameter. Some forks have this diameter change in the steertube, where it flares out at the bottom. You need to see if the fork has that steertube or a straight steertube, where the lower headset bearing race makes up that larger diameter itself. Just pop your fork out a bit and you can see it. If it looks the same as the spare fork you bought, you can just swap the bearing race to the new fork. E: reading your post again, yeah you just need to buy a lower race for a straight steertube fork.
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Jun 8, 2021 03:02
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Dren posted:Spin your wheel and look to see if your rotor is true. If it's not true, take it to the LBS for a truing. If it is true, do this https://www.roadbikerider.com/how-to-fix-disc-brake-rubbing-d3/ thank you
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Jun 8, 2021 03:45
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actionjackson posted:I'm getting a constant low "metallic" noise that I can hear pretty easily when walking my bike. It seems to be coming from the area highlighted. Is it possible the brake is not centered and thus touching the black side on the left, causing this noise? If you want us to diagnose a metallic noise, then post a video. Photos, especially grainy ones that aren't zoomed in aren't going to do us much good. Is it a ting-ting-ting or a scrape-scrape-scrape. Does the noise occur once per revolution or does it have a patterned/regular cadence?
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Jun 8, 2021 03:59
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took my bike on amtrak and it went in the baggage car, now the front tire is rubbing against the fender pretty hard. what should I try to fix it?
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Jun 8, 2021 13:18
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VelociBacon posted:So your headset is tapered, meaning the lower race has a larger diameter. Some forks have this diameter change in the steertube, where it flares out at the bottom. You need to see if the fork has that steertube or a straight steertube, where the lower headset bearing race makes up that larger diameter itself. Just pop your fork out a bit and you can see it. If it looks the same as the spare fork you bought, you can just swap the bearing race to the new fork. Ok, thanks! I'll give it a try.
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Jun 8, 2021 13:33
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Jazz Marimba posted:took my bike on amtrak and it went in the baggage car, now the front tire is rubbing against the fender pretty hard. what should I try to fix it? Is it a QR wheel? Have you tried loosening the QR, and seeing if the wheel becomes centered and stops rubbing, then retightening? Otherwise the fender might have taken a smack and it’s off center, which you should be able to adjust by hand, maybe with loosening the bolt holding it to the fork. A pic would help.
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Jun 8, 2021 13:53
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Jazz Marimba posted:took my bike on amtrak and it went in the baggage car, now the front tire is rubbing against the fender pretty hard. what should I try to fix it? Depends on the kind of fender, some sort of telescope on the metal poles and you just need to pull it back into shape.
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Jun 8, 2021 14:39
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TobinHatesYou posted:If you want us to diagnose a metallic noise, then post a video. Photos, especially grainy ones that aren't zoomed in aren't going to do us much good. I will post a video, for some reason though I heard it when walking my bike in, I don't hear it when I just spin the wheel indoors.
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Jun 8, 2021 14:43
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Is bike-specific copper grease (anti-seize) the same as the car stuff? I ask because of the significant price difference! VV Thanks! VV Al2001 fucked around with this message at 16:34 on Jun 8, 2021 |
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Jun 8, 2021 14:52
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Al2001 posted:Is bike-specific copper grease (anti-seize) the same as the car stuff? I ask because of the significant price difference! Same
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Jun 8, 2021 16:28
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:Is it a QR wheel? Have you tried loosening the QR, and seeing if the wheel becomes centered and stops rubbing, then retightening? Otherwise the fender might have taken a smack and it’s off center, which you should be able to adjust by hand, maybe with loosening the bolt holding it to the fork. it's the pinhead system, but I did swap it to QR for the train ride cuz I thought they'd have the in-car bike racks where you take the front wheel off here's a vid with the fender stays on, after some adjusting of the fender: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jhwv2Ga7ISY and here's one with them off, after more adjusting of the fender: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wpo3p-gDjVA any specific angles you want pics/vid from?
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Jun 8, 2021 20:03
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It’s hard to see since it’s upside down, but I’m suspecting it’s something to do with where the fender mounts to the fork. Can you pull the fender up there, away from the tire? Side angle pics with the bike upright and light behind it would be the best so you can see where there is and isn’t the gap between the fender and tire.
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Jun 8, 2021 21:02
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I've given up on Semi-Metallic disc brake pads and gone back to organic pads. Tired of the pads tearing up the rotors.
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Jun 10, 2021 04:04
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How much could a rotor cost? $7?
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Jun 10, 2021 05:05
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VideoGameVet posted:I've given up on Semi-Metallic disc brake pads and gone back to organic pads. Presuming you've done the lovely napkin math WRT overall cost savings of longer lasting metallic pads vs longer lasting rotors?
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Jun 10, 2021 05:19
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VelociBacon posted:How much could a rotor cost? $7? that's cheaper than a banana!
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Jun 10, 2021 05:20
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TobinHatesYou posted:Presuming you've done the lovely napkin math WRT overall cost savings of longer lasting metallic pads vs longer lasting rotors? Aren’t rotors on the list of hard to acquire parts these days?
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Jun 10, 2021 06:13
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highme posted:Aren’t rotors on the list of hard to acquire parts these days? Rotors seem fine. OEM pads are hard to find.
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Jun 10, 2021 06:15
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