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CAR CRASH CRACKERS posted:That's me! Hey. I got the card today, thanks, but it sticks out so I can't cover the case. I have the money to buy a new, bigger case but I'm not sure where to start. The computer I have is a 'Dell Optiplex 790 SFF Intel i5'. Any help guys?
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# ? Jun 1, 2021 19:13 |
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# ? Jun 5, 2024 23:52 |
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Spacegrass posted:Hey. I got the card today, thanks, but it sticks out so I can't cover the case. I have the money to buy a new, bigger case but I'm not sure where to start. The computer I have is a 'Dell Optiplex 790 SFF Intel i5'. Any help guys? yeah that's the idea of the riser - it's an extension cable for your GPU and you use it so your GPU lays flat or otherwise in an unconventional layout in your case. something like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363059269358?hash=item548804ceee:g:eI8AAOSwK2hfHq7F it probably won't look pretty - your HDMI cable or whatever might need to go into the case to plug in- but it will work so long as there's any orientation that the GPU can fit in there. alternately you could cut a hole in the case or run it open, or replace the relevant panel with a piece or cardboard or something which is easier to cut a hole in. the video i showed took the riser route.
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# ? Jun 1, 2021 19:37 |
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but before you buy anything make sure it works with the case open - so long as you don't drop anything in there, there's nothing wrong with running a computer open case, definitely not for testing. you should be able to plug it in, plug in the monitor TO THE GPU (this is super important) and make sure it boots, nvidia drivers download etc.
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# ? Jun 1, 2021 19:44 |
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Assuming the pc is in a place where spills/pets/children can’t touch it, you can just have an open case. Obviously not a permanent solution, but it’ll work.
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# ? Jun 1, 2021 19:45 |
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If I didn't have cats I'd definitely just run open case. Much simpler that way
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# ? Jun 1, 2021 19:48 |
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Can you post me what product exactly I need to buy from the USA on ebay that will work? Thanks.
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# ? Jun 1, 2021 19:49 |
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Spacegrass posted:Can you post me what product exactly I need to buy from the USA on ebay that will work? Thanks. buh, i've never done this before but i believe this will work? https://www.ebay.com/itm/254285047741?hash=item3b3491e7bd:g:pwkAAOSwFTNc50we do you have a picture of the device installed and the clearance issue? it would make it easier to recommend going this way or going for a new case.
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# ? Jun 1, 2021 19:51 |
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gradenko_2000 posted:If I didn't have cats I'd definitely just run open case. Much simpler that way One of my old uni roomies spread a gaming/multimedia pc’s innards all over a shelf in our living room. Conveniently close to the tv, miraculously didn’t get hit by beer and got some interesting looks from guests.
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# ? Jun 1, 2021 19:52 |
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CoolCab posted:buh, i've never done this before but i believe this will work? Oh ok I get it. Thanks. It should fit in "Michael Saul Dells" case.
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# ? Jun 1, 2021 20:00 |
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I get it. But can someone link a thing I need EXACTLY from ebay or Amazon?
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# ? Jun 1, 2021 20:21 |
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Will this work? 'PCIE PCI-Express 16x-16x Riser Extension Card Ribbon Extender Cable Powered NEW'
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# ? Jun 1, 2021 20:26 |
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I ordered this: PCI-Express PCI-E 16X to 16X Riser Card Ribbon Extender Extension Relocate Cable. Will it work?
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# ? Jun 1, 2021 20:44 |
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Spacegrass posted:I ordered this: PCI-Express PCI-E 16X to 16X Riser Card Ribbon Extender Extension Relocate Cable. Will it work? i'd need a link bud, i think in theory but i'd need a look at it specifically.
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# ? Jun 1, 2021 20:51 |
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Spacegrass are you doing okay man?
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# ? Jun 1, 2021 21:29 |
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Just look up those words on ebay, I can't copy links on this retarded Amazon fire tablet.
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# ? Jun 1, 2021 21:29 |
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if it's this https://www.ebay.com/itm/224425895206?hash=item3440d36526:g:qk4AAOSw26Vgd-pO i believe you're good? you're only pulling a tiny amount of power so it would be OK I think? if anyone has any countervailing opinion here lmk cause i've never done this specifically before. the LTT video just suggested getting a generic one.
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# ? Jun 1, 2021 21:41 |
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CoolCab posted:if it's this Yeah thanks. It should work.
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# ? Jun 1, 2021 21:56 |
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Spacegrass posted:Yeah thanks. It should work. so, when you're putting it in there, you can't interfere with any of the fans - like, cords or whatever, if you don't make sure they clear it makes a hell of a scary buzzsaw sound. and it's a bad idea to let anything metal touch the motherboard in operation. there should be some orientation it will rest in that this works and you can get the lid shut - i definitely wouldn't move the PC around much in operation - in fact be careful if you need to move it or whatever.
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# ? Jun 1, 2021 22:02 |
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I have a question about Bluetooth and different OS-es. The situation is this: I have a desktop computer and a bluetooth USB dongle. I am normally, most of the time using Linux. It was trivial and straightforward to pair my Android phone with the desktop and I can play music from my phone into the computer's speakers. All good. Several weeks ago I started to work on a windows project and therefore I had to spend more time in Windows 10. Naturally I just wanted to use the same mechanism to play music from the phone onto the speakers. Windows, being the dumpster fire that it is ... it's not that simple. Nothing is simple there. I had to install another application that can do the connection and actually allow said streaming. But the thing is, when I boot again in Linux, I cannot connect to bluetooth. I have to forget the connection from both my phone and the computer and re-pair. Boot into windows, same thing again. I presume there may be some sort of "signature" that each OS tells to the phone and the phone rejects the connection if it feels that it's "wrong"? I have absolutely no idea what's going on in here. It's definitely not a big deal, but it would be nice to not have to do the re-pair dance. The hardware is all the same, I assume the MACs are unchanged, it "should" just work. Shouldn't it? Do I have any options here? At all? Other than running windows in a VM in linux, which sounds more and more appealing to be honest.
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# ? Jun 1, 2021 22:27 |
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Why route it through the PC in the first place? Can you plug a headphone jack from the phone into the speaker itself or PC? You've chosen the most complicated way to do this.
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# ? Jun 1, 2021 22:36 |
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LRADIKAL posted:Why route it through the PC in the first place? Can you plug a headphone jack from the phone into the speaker itself or PC? You've chosen the most complicated way to do this. Back in the stone age, phones had this little device that would allow one to plug a headphone jack into it. Nowadays, why bother when you can sell a bunch of additional accessories? Yes, there are options, but this way was quite convenient to be honest. And the dongle I bought a few years ago when I did a bluetooth project on an embedded device. So, it was there ...
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# ? Jun 1, 2021 22:39 |
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Well, I think you will find that an inline USBC to headphone dongle will be simpler and of higher audio quality to what you are doing now.
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# ? Jun 2, 2021 00:34 |
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I posted in the quick audio questions thread in IYG also but haven't gotten any replies yet so I thought I'd try here too. Please redirect me if there's a better place for this. Problem: I'm trying to switch both input and output audio between two computers and also switch between a set of headphones and a set of speakers and can't figure out an elegant way to do it. Current setup: I've got a Macbook and a PC that are both connected to an integrated KVM switch in my monitor (a Gigabyte M27Q). My mouse and keyboard are plugged into the two available USB-A ports on the monitor. The Mac sends audio+video via USB-C and receives keyboard and mouse input back via the same connection; the PC sends A/V via DisplayPort and gets K/M input back via a separate USB-A cable from the monitor. The monitor also provides an 1/8" audio out which I currently have headphones plugged into (I believe it is just an out, not a headphones/mic combo jack). This works fine enough for basic headphone listening on both devices, but sometimes I would like to listen via a desk speaker I have (which accepts 1/8" stereo line in), and it's a hassle to plug/unplug things behind the monitor. I would also like to have a mic available to the PC (and ideally the Mac too but that's less important). The KVM has no open ports of any (relevant) kind; the Mac has only a 1/8" TRRS headphones+mic jack available (its two USB-C ports are in use for power and the monitor cable); the PC has tons of USB ports, 1/8" stereo line in and out, and a 1/8" TRRS headphones+mic jack, all currently unused (except 1 USB to get the downstream keyboard/mouse signal from the KVM). Things I've considered: It seems like I first have to choose whether to try to use the KVM to switch audio or give up on that. If I run all output audio through the KVM, I can just get a dumb unpowered 2-way 1/8" audio switcher like this one and hook it to the KVM audio out and both my headphones and speaker. This seems a bit janky but should work, I guess? Then I need to either get a USB hub and hook it to the KVM to hook up a USB mic that both computers could share (annoying, extra stuff on my desk), or just hook a mic directly to the PC (annoying that I can't use it on the Mac, but OK). Alternatively I could use the KVM only for audio out destined for the speaker. I could hook the KVM audio out to my speaker, and get a headset with mic, switching audio devices on the computers to switch between my speakers (via the KVM) and the headset. This seems annoying for little benefit, since I still have to get a USB hub to provide the headset to both computers (and it has to be a USB headset), or I have to physically move it between devices (in which case I have to do TRRS because the Mac has no open USB ports, and they're all USB-C anyway; my impression is that TRRS headsets are generally garbage audio quality, is that right?), or I give up on the Mac mic and get a USB headset and hook it to the PC directly (and now I have two sets of headphones sitting on my desk and still don't have a Mac mic). This seems worse than the above. It seems like there should be some kind of device that provides a switchable audio interface across two computers and provides mic in, line out, and headphone out. Does such a thing exist? Alternatively, are there any small USB audio interfaces with mic in/line out/headphone out that provide a passthrough USB port, so I could hook it to my KVM and then attach my mouse to it, rather than having to have a hub in between just to get one more port? I'm just trying to minimize the number of additional things on my desk. If not, I guess the best thing to do is the USB mic attached directly to the PC combined with the dumb audio switcher, right?
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# ? Jun 2, 2021 01:23 |
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Scythe posted:It seems like there should be some kind of device that provides a switchable audio interface across two computers and provides mic in, line out, and headphone out. Does such a thing exist? Would some of these help? I'm sure there are cheaper out there and just as capable. LRADIKAL posted:Well, I think you will find that an inline USBC to headphone dongle will be simpler and of higher audio quality to what you are doing now. It appears to be my only option if I really want to keep using the phone. Which I probably don't since 2 clicks of the mouse is a lot easier to do than plug-unplug a jack. But, would it be of a higher audio quality? Are the DACs in modern phones decent enough? Attached to my computer I have an external optical DAC that goes to the studio monitors and a USB AMP+DAC (O2) that powers my headphones. It's not "good" but reasonable enough for my ears.
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# ? Jun 2, 2021 01:47 |
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CoolCab posted:so, when you're putting it in there, you can't interfere with any of the fans - like, cords or whatever, if you don't make sure they clear it makes a hell of a scary buzzsaw sound. and it's a bad idea to let anything metal touch the motherboard in operation. there should be some orientation it will rest in that this works and you can get the lid shut - i definitely wouldn't move the PC around much in operation - in fact be careful if you need to move it or whatever. Nevermind.
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# ? Jun 2, 2021 01:58 |
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Spacegrass posted:Will this card work with a Dell 240w power supply? I don't want to set this place on fire. Jesus, this power supply looks like it was invented before I was born.
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# ? Jun 2, 2021 02:00 |
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Volguus posted:Would some of these help? I'm sure there are cheaper out there and just as capable. I'm not sure why you are looking at very expensive DAC's, also yeah, why are you using a phone when you could just use the PC? The DAC which is inside the adapter cable will almost certainly be decent. Who knows what quality you are getting Bluetooth to two different Bluetooth stacks which are definitely using lossy encoding to communicate with your system.
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# ? Jun 2, 2021 02:34 |
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Plug it in and turn it on. Leave the case open, just don't spill in it.
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# ? Jun 2, 2021 02:35 |
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LRADIKAL posted:I'm not sure why you are looking at very expensive DAC's, also yeah, why are you using a phone when you could just use the PC? I was using the phone because the radio app that I was using didn't have a desktop version. I could have used the browser ... but it was just easy and convenient until windows entered the picture. About Bluetooth stack: I would have imagined that they transmit the digital signal, with no quality loss whatsoever, is that not the case for Bluetooth?
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# ? Jun 2, 2021 02:49 |
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Spacegrass posted:Hey. I got the card today, thanks, but it sticks out so I can't cover the case. I have the money to buy a new, bigger case but I'm not sure where to start. The computer I have is a 'Dell Optiplex 790 SFF Intel i5'. Any help guys? Nevermind.
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# ? Jun 2, 2021 03:36 |
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Spacegrass I don't know you and don't recognize you or anything like that but you seem kinda out of it, I don't know if it's just the tablet posting that's confusing and making you quadruple reply to yourself last page or think that this was the thread where you bought a GPU and are trying to deal with it in the above post but I just want to make sure you're okay. Totally not meaning this in any kind of offensive way but you're definitely okay and safe right?
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# ? Jun 2, 2021 03:42 |
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CAR CRASH CRACKERS posted:That's me! Do you want it back? I noticed it was $80 on ebay. It's not going to fit in this case and I can't have an open computer. Unless you know anything about an external video card holder. Which I don't know if they even exist. Spacegrass fucked around with this message at 06:20 on Jun 2, 2021 |
# ? Jun 2, 2021 03:52 |
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VelociBacon posted:Spacegrass I don't know you and don't recognize you or anything like that but you seem kinda out of it, I don't know if it's just the tablet posting that's confusing and making you quadruple reply to yourself last page or think that this was the thread where you bought a GPU and are trying to deal with it in the above post but I just want to make sure you're okay. Totally not meaning this in any kind of offensive way but you're definitely okay and safe right? I'm good, thanks. I've just been hyper on energy drinks and working on this computer all day.
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# ? Jun 2, 2021 03:55 |
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Volguus posted:I was using the phone because the radio app that I was using didn't have a desktop version. I could have used the browser ... but it was just easy and convenient until windows entered the picture. About Bluetooth stack: I would have imagined that they transmit the digital signal, with no quality loss whatsoever, is that not the case for Bluetooth? https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Bluetooth_profiles
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# ? Jun 2, 2021 05:12 |
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Right: quote:Each A2DP service, of possibly many, is designed to uni-directionally transfer an audio stream in up to 2 channel stereo, either to or from the Bluetooth host.[2] This profile relies on AVDTP and GAVDP. It includes mandatory support for the low-complexity SBC codec (not to be confused with Bluetooth's voice-signal codecs such as CVSDM), and supports optionally MPEG-1 Part 3/MPEG-2 Part 3 (MP2 and MP3), MPEG-2 Part 7/MPEG-4 Part 3 (AAC and HE-AAC), and ATRAC, and is extensible to support manufacturer-defined codecs, such as aptX.[3] So there is whatever the codec loses over the transmission. Which probably is nothing since the audio comes from the application encoded that way. But yeah, its digital.
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# ? Jun 2, 2021 06:14 |
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Spacegrass posted:Will this card work with a Dell 240w power supply? I don't want to set this place on fire. Jesus, this power supply looks like it was invented before I was born. The system that card came in had a 240w power supply. Spacegrass posted:Do you want it back? I noticed it was $80 on ebay. It's not going to fit in this case and I can't have an open computer. Unless you know anything about an external video card holder. Which I don't know if they even exist. Nah, I don't want it back. Do what you will with it. If I were you I wouldn't give up on it just yet, though. Some pics of your setup it would help a lot in suggesting solutions, if that's possible. Edit: vertically mounting the card might be the answer. CAR CRASH CRACKERS fucked around with this message at 08:56 on Jun 2, 2021 |
# ? Jun 2, 2021 08:47 |
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Volguus posted:Right: Are you still working on this issue? Here it is in a nutshell. The pairing process in bluetooth (especially modern bluetooth) creates a key that is saved in both the host and the device. In your case, you have both Windows and Linux as the host, and they both have their own repositories to save pairing keys. The best solution is to pair in Windows, then copy the pairing key over to Linux. Otherwise, you will have to constantly pair and unpair because the pairing keys will never be the same. Here's a post to start you out: https://unix.stackexchange.com/questions/255509/bluetooth-pairing-on-dual-boot-of-windows-linux-mint-ubuntu-stop-having-to-p
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# ? Jun 2, 2021 10:52 |
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Spacegrass posted:Nevermind. uh? so, you can close it in this configuration - here's the specific part of the video i was referring to https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZAFuawsN-1I&t=290s it will work totally fine if it's just sitting in there - so long as it's not resting on the motherboard. fold up the riser cable under it and place it on there, easy peasy. because it's not bound to anything you have to be careful when you move the machine, particularly when it's in use - that's what i was getting at.
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# ? Jun 2, 2021 11:19 |
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i hope i didn't scare you off, i was sweating bullets the first time i had to put a machine together. it's spooky but you're working with parts where there's very little to lose. it's not going to cause a fire issue, a 750ti is a very low power card. when i say "can't interfere with the fans" what i specifically mean is what i've circled in red below, see? all of your fans have to be able to spin, you can't have any wires touching them or routed through them that prevents it. that might be a little obvious and i'm sorry if it comes across as patronizing but i can personally vouch for loving it up, it happens. it's also not the end of the world (power down, figure out where a fan is impeded, go) and didn't damage any of my gear. because you're not mounting the GPU, ie, connecting it to the case with a screw or something, you'll need to be careful when you're moving the whole computer (ie, the box) around because you don't want it to move around and damage a component. no big deal, just take the GPU out before you move it. easy peasy. this stuff is scary and particularly so if you've never done it before. we're here to help though so if you have anything you're struggling with come bug us, it's what we're here for
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# ? Jun 2, 2021 11:46 |
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# ? Jun 5, 2024 23:52 |
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sb hermit posted:Are you still working on this issue? Here it is in a nutshell. Thank you, that's the information I was looking for. It does make sense. Edit: and it works. Volguus fucked around with this message at 14:46 on Jun 2, 2021 |
# ? Jun 2, 2021 14:35 |