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Battery terminals are loose or corroded. If you grab the terminal and try to move it, it should not move at all. If you see anything white or green or blue and crusty on the terminals, they’re corroded.
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Jun 1, 2021 06:26
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Here’s a stupid or not so stupid question. Would it be fair to say that when a car has larger and higher performance brakes fitted, discs and pads should have a longer lifespan than their smaller standard brethren? This is on the assumption of the same type of normal daily driving in the same kinds of environments.
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Jun 1, 2021 10:47
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Not always higher performance Brakes might be 'grabbier' and designed to have more friction which means more wear so you may end up with less longevity. Larger /higher performance could mean more pistons (pressure ability) not thicker pads.
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Jun 1, 2021 10:50
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Krakkles posted:Battery terminals are loose or corroded. If you grab the terminal and try to move it, it should not move at all. If you see anything white or green or blue and crusty on the terminals, they’re corroded. And even if you don't see it - the corrosion is there. Pull the clamps and wire-brush everything. Check the connector/jones plug on the alternator and be sure that it's firmly seated.
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Jun 1, 2021 14:22
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Lord Ludikrous posted:Here’s a stupid or not so stupid question. Would it be fair to say that when a car has larger and higher performance brakes fitted, discs and pads should have a longer lifespan than their smaller standard brethren? This is on the assumption of the same type of normal daily driving in the same kinds of environments. Nah. Performance brakes may actually wear out sooner than the regular ones, because they're designed with aggressive high-friction material that wears away faster. Same deal as with tires -- the longest-lasting ones are usually the cheap ones, because they're hard rubber that doesn't stick very well and therefore doesn't get torn apart by cornering forces either.
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Jun 1, 2021 14:29
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My 2010 Mazda 3 i4 had ~75k miles when I bought it a few years ago and now has more like ~95k. The car seems fine; the check engline light is not on, the car starts easily, the AC is strong, the clutch and manual trannsmission have no real issues. How should I go about preventative maintenace so that it STAYS running well? Should I take it to a shop and say "it's been about twenty thousand miles since I bought it, is anything wearing out?" Should I proactively change the serpentine belt, or alternator, or anything else? I could maybe change the spark plugs myself, I've done basic stuff like that before, but honestly even though I learned a little about working on cars over the years, I also learned that I have absolutely no paitence for anything going wrong on a daily driver project; I'd rather save up a grand or two, go into a shop, and just spend a bit of money keeping this car running well.
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Jun 1, 2021 17:48
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Is the timing belt done? I think that's your next big thing and it's probably overdue if not done. Check the owners manual for this.
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Jun 1, 2021 17:50
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Dejan Bimble posted:2005 Honda Accord with the 2.4 Tighten the bolts on the cable to the terminal to make sure they're good and TIGHT.
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Jun 1, 2021 17:51
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VelociBacon posted:Is the timing belt done? I think that's your next big thing and it's probably overdue if not done. Check the owners manual for this. Ok, thanks, I think I have the original manual and, if I don't, I can find it online. I was concerned that the owner's manual would only contain things like "every five thousand miles check and replace, um, everything", which is always the confused impression I get when I try to read those tables. I'll pay someone to change the timing belt. Now that I think about it, there's a slight clunk in the suspension going over rough roads, so something is less than perfect there as well. Anyway, I'll check and maybe start with the timing belt, thanks.
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Jun 1, 2021 17:54
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VelociBacon posted:Is the timing belt done? I think that's your next big thing and it's probably overdue if not done. Check the owners manual for this. Mazda3s all have chains. If your Mazda3 has direct injection (in 2010 that might still have been the Mazdaspeed only) then it's likely due for a walnut shell cleaning of the intake valves, and spark plugs if they've never been done. Beyond that just keep up with fluid changes (maybe change the transmission fluid now too).
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Jun 1, 2021 17:55
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Jack B Nimble posted:Ok, thanks, I think I have the original manual and, if I don't, I can find it online. I was concerned that the owner's manual would only contain things like "every five thousand miles check and replace, um, everything", which is always the confused impression I get when I try to read those tables. I'll pay someone to change the timing belt. Now that I think about it, there's a slight clunk in the suspension going over rough roads, so something is less than perfect there as well. Anyway, I'll check and maybe start with the timing belt, thanks. https://www.mazdausa.com/siteassets/pdf/owners-optimized/2010/mazda3-4door/2010-mazda-3-owners-manual.pdf
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Jun 1, 2021 17:57
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Krakkles posted:Battery terminals are loose or corroded. If you grab the terminal and try to move it, it should not move at all. If you see anything white or green or blue and crusty on the terminals, they’re corroded. It, I've always tried to keep my posts clean. Three batteries ago it was installed by someone other than me and they put the nuts on backwards so they can't really be moved, at least I can't figure out how to do anything with them
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Jun 1, 2021 18:05
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Dejan Bimble posted:2005 Honda Accord with the 2.4 One of the connectors (with the nut you tighten) had partially snapped and it wasn't able to tighten any more. I wodged tin foil in there, to pad it out - good as new.
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Jun 1, 2021 19:15
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So you think.  
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Jun 1, 2021 19:29
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Great news, 250A is about right for a car battery fuse 
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Jun 1, 2021 20:06
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Dejan Bimble posted:2005 Honda Accord with the 2.4 Coming in late, but I've also had trouble on 7th gens (I've had 3 now) with the negaitve cable and where it hits the left frame rail. Check that as well. There was a time when the batteries some autoparts stores were selling (autozooooone  ) had an undersized negative terminal which would initially make good contact, but actually needed a shim to match the taper of the clamp properly.
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Jun 1, 2021 20:07
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glyph posted:There was a time when the batteries some autoparts stores were selling (autozooooone Oh man, this gave me the worst flashback to my old Jeep. In trying to streamline their product line, one of the big battery manufacturers (Johnson?) combined several groups into one battery with top terminals not-quite-right-sized for anything, CCAs too low for the top-terminal applications, and side terminals that would start hemorrhaging electrolyte every few months. I have never been stranded so often as I was during the year or so that that design lasted.
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Jun 1, 2021 21:50
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Jack B Nimble posted:My 2010 Mazda 3 i4 had ~75k miles when I bought it a few years ago and now has more like ~95k. The car seems fine; the check engline light is not on, the car starts easily, the AC is strong, the clutch and manual trannsmission have no real issues. It wouldn't hurt to get EVERY fluid replaced. Coolant, Brake fluid/hydraulic clutch, Power steering. If you haven't had it done yourself, and don't have a receipt for it being done, then assume that its never been done.
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Jun 1, 2021 23:50
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Hey thread If I wanted to tow a regular camper, what truck should I get? I can't really seem to find the right search terms to get what I want.
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Jun 2, 2021 00:41
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Empress Brosephine posted:Hey thread Define "regular camper" in terms of length and weight.
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Jun 2, 2021 00:51
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Hmmm I have no idea to be honest, maybe 7.5k at the max? Hard to kinda figure this stuff out as a total beginner  . My research online basically says to get a jeep gladiator or a dodge ram bit is that even remotely true
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Jun 2, 2021 05:42
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Can you post a link to what you mean by a regular camper? That could be anything from a teardrop trailer to a 40 foot fifth wheel trailer. Knowing an example of what you have in mind will help.
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Jun 2, 2021 05:45
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Oh duh, sorry, I forgot the obvious. Something like these: https://www.dutchmen.com/product/coleman-light
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Jun 2, 2021 05:50
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Empress Brosephine posted:Oh duh, sorry, I forgot the obvious. Ironically, it would seem the Dutchmen block website visitors from the Netherlands.  spankmeister fucked around with this message at 06:43 on Jun 2, 2021 |
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Jun 2, 2021 06:39
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A two axle trailer on American highways requires a V8 or a good diesel. Yes, lots of 6 and even 4 cylinder cars could do it in theory, but that's not what American roads are built for. Leave the gladiator alone, and frankly I'd stay away from the dodge. Go with a Japanese half ton of you can. Or comedy option an early 70s V8 station wagon.
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Jun 2, 2021 07:18
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spankmeister posted:Ironically, it would seem the Dutchmen block website visitors from the Netherlands. It's easier to just georestrict than deal with GDPR. It's a big boy 
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Jun 2, 2021 07:22
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Georestrict deez nuts
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Jun 2, 2021 07:48
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The japanese half tons would be the Titan, Tundra and anything else?
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Jun 2, 2021 13:38
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You'd probably be okay with a Nissan Armada or a Toyota Land Cruiser / Sequoia as well.
Safety Dance fucked around with this message at 14:24 on Jun 2, 2021 |
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Jun 2, 2021 14:16
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Dejan Bimble posted:2005 Honda Accord with the 2.4 I've been thinking about this. Did you close the hood after you wiggled the battery cable clamps? I wonder if you have a relay that's on the way out (which would explain the lack of dash lights) and if slamming the hood closed was just enough to get it moving again. Also, did you take the key out of the ignition when you went under the hood?
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Jun 2, 2021 14:58
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Safety Dance posted:You'd probably be okay with a Nissan Armada or a Toyota Land Cruiser / Sequoia as well. Sweet thanks aAll. I vastly perfer japanese cars so this is great.
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Jun 2, 2021 15:14
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Empress Brosephine posted:The japanese half tons would be the Titan, Tundra and anything else? Tundra or titan (depending on loadout) can pull anything on Dutchman's list. Safety Dance posted:You'd probably be okay with a Nissan Armada or a Toyota Land Cruiser / Sequoia as well. Cruiser is rated at 8100 for the new one, and 8500 for the Armada. Sequoia is rated at 7-7400lb. This isn't enough to pull Dutchman's larger offerings. Wet/ready to go weight will be around 1500lb(+/-500lb) heavier than dry, keep this in mind for tow vehicle shopping.
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Jun 2, 2021 18:06
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The Toyota fan boy wants a tundra bit the Titan looks sweet. Do Nissans have good "reliability" like Toyotas?
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Jun 2, 2021 18:20
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Without getting into reliability being largely a factor of owner care, Nissans do tend to have more issues than Toyotas. Nissan hasn't refreshed their truck line in quite some time so they're dated compared to other offerings. The Cummins v8 doesn't offset the aging platform it resides in. I have no personal experience with the Titan line. I've been in, around, and through the Frontier line; get a Tacoma. You can't go wrong with a v8 Tundra. I've seen a couple out west here pulling far north of 5 tons though its a white knuckle experience for all parties involved.
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Jun 2, 2021 18:44
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Empress Brosephine posted:Hmmm I have no idea to be honest, maybe 7.5k at the max? There's a ton of RV YouTube channels out there. BigTruck Big RV, is one I watch from time to time. He mostly does huge 5th wheel trailers though. I have no desire to own an RV or travel trailer, but I like his videos. I'd pick your trailer first, and then make sure the truck is equipped to actually tow the thing. The largest of those dutchmen trailers you linked to have a GVWR 9,680 pounds, which is not something I would want to tow with a normal half ton truck. There are certain trucks out there *when properly equipped* that can tow that much, but I'm of the uneducated, just watched a bunch of youtube videos, opinion that is 3/4 ton territory. There's a lot more to it as well, like load distribution, how much weight will be in the actual truck, tongue weight, etc. Towing capacity can vary from truck to truck from some Manufacturers. Some F-150's can only tow 6,000 pounds, others, properly equipped, can handle over 10,000 pounds. It's very important to make sure the truck is equipped to handle whatever you are wanting to tow. If you're looking at a smaller unit like the 2455BH, GVWR on those are 7600 pounds. Much more friendly for a 1/2 ton pickup. There is a ton of reviews on YouTube for almost every camper, and tons of truck videos about towing campers.
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Jun 2, 2021 18:58
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I just pinstriped the ever loving poo poo out of my new Prius while driving up to Kintla Lake at Glacier NP, but I didn't break anything and I actually had people come up to me and ask me how I made it up there, so that's fun. Is there a good way to hide pinstripes? I'm not ready to do a full cut/polish, but my car legit looks like it was keyed by a pissed ex-girl/boyfriend and it makes me sad to look at. Maybe a carnauba wax?
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Jun 2, 2021 20:40
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Eh, I'm split on it. I think it's going to depend heavily on all of these: *How heavy of a trailer are you actually going to haul, and how many people / how much stuff also needs to go in the truck? *How often are you going to haul said trailer, and how often are you going to do other things with the truck where bigger is not better? *Where are you going to haul said trailer (flat vs hilly) and how willing are you to slow down for those hills? My Canyon diesel is rated at 7700lb trailer / 12700 GCWR. With a 4500lb trailer and a 4500lb curb weight that still leaves room for another 3700lb of stuff distributed between the two. I have no doubts that it will tow safely at that weight but that last statement is going to be a killer - you will not be climbing grades at 75mph. Half-ton trucks can haul more but you're going to need to step up from whatever the base engine is. GM, for example, rates the 4.3 V6 half ton as pretty much equal to my Canyon, and the 2.7 turbo as actually slightly less capable. But the V8 and Duramax trucks all get a GCWR of anywhere from 15000 to 17800, and they'll probably only have to slow down for really steep climbs. On a 3/4 ton truck you're looking at 24000-27500 pound GCWRs, and you'll barely lean into the throttle a bit to keep doing ten over uphill with a 4500lb camper.
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Jun 2, 2021 20:45
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Wow thank you I'll for the help. I wish the smaller trucks had a better tow rating, as I would love another Tacoma or a Ridgeline or a corado. As for a trailer, I just posted that Dutchman as a random example. In actuallity I'd probably get something like this: https://rv.campingworld.com/rvdetails/new-travel-trailer-rvs/2021-coleman-coleman-rubicon-1608rb-rear-bath-20k-CNW192233 Thanks all
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Jun 2, 2021 21:10
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stellers bae posted:I just pinstriped the ever loving poo poo out of my new Prius while driving up to Kintla Lake at Glacier NP, but I didn't break anything and I actually had people come up to me and ask me how I made it up there, so that's fun. How deep are the scratches? Did they pierce through the clear coat? Some photos would help. The simplest thing you can do is to wax it, so you were on the right track. The wax fills in the void and makes it look smooth. That will only work for minor scratches though. taqueso fucked around with this message at 21:24 on Jun 2, 2021 |
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Jun 2, 2021 21:22
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Empress Brosephine posted:Wow thank you I'll for the help. I wish the smaller trucks had a better tow rating, as I would love another Tacoma or a Ridgeline or a corado. The 1608RB is like 3800 pounds dry, I can't find the GVWR on it, but it's definitely 6000 pounds or less. I'd probably guess in the 5000 range with it's single axle. A Toyota Tacoma with the V6 can easily handle that trailer.
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Jun 2, 2021 22:28
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