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I picked up an S1H a few months back after being a long time Nikon shooter (D800, D750, D850, Z6) and really love it so far. I know the S5 doesn't have quite as nice of EVF and whatnot, but also it's a much smaller body. Really happy with the thing for both stills and video. I've not had reason to test the multi-shot mode though so can't offer any thoughts there, and my only first party lens is the 24-105 otherwise I'm still using all of my Nikon mount Zeiss stuff and Nikon 80-400. If video wasn't my main deal the S5 looked pretty appealing.
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Apr 22, 2021 22:18
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Just remember that Panasonic's Contrast based AF is poor. I think Canon's Dual Pixel AF is clearly the best. Sony and Nikon make good Phase detection AF systems. Compared to those Panasonic is just a poor experience. With native Panasonic branded glass it is OK, but it is not that good compared to the competition. The reason why Panasonic/Leica don't have PDAF is that Sony won't sell them sensors at competitive prices. Some engineer from Leica said in interview that the reason they don't have PDAF because they can't get good Sony sensors with PDAF. I bought S1 for manual focus Nikon lenses, and it is fine for that. After a while I realized I'm missing many opportunities during weddings, fleeting moments etc. which are very hard to capture with MF. Or if the model moves at all, laughs or something. AF can catch and refocus fast enough, I can't do the same with MF. I hope Sigma's 85/1.4 DN is good enough for that. Panasonic's AF may be good enough for many purposes. It doesn't make it good, only decent. It never will be good. Especially tracking af (af-c) is "interesting" with the Sigma. Native glass may be better. My friend's R5's and Z7's and A7III's etc are so much better in AF department it is not even funny anymore  Of course there are other areas where Panasonic is stronger.
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Apr 23, 2021 06:50
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Is DFD at least very accurate if not fast? I guess that is one aspect where the latest Fujis (if not the last generation prior) are at least fairly decent; the facial recognition and tracking in low light is really pretty good.
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Apr 23, 2021 19:51
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Seems pretty fast and accurate to me, but I only have the 24-105 f4 so couldn’t say how that translates to everything else.
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Apr 23, 2021 20:22
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Is there a price spike going on with used x-t3’s? I listed one on Craigslist a few months ago and forgot about it, then suddenly I received a few different emails about it one day. I checked eBay and used ones are going for about $200 more than my cl listing. Is there a high demand for them all of a sudden with people wanting to go outside again?
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Apr 27, 2021 22:19
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red19fire posted:Is there a price spike going on with used x-t3’s? I listed one on Craigslist a few months ago and forgot about it, then suddenly I received a few different emails about it one day. I checked eBay and used ones are going for about $200 more than my cl listing. Is there a high demand for them all of a sudden with people wanting to go outside again? I noticed this too, also with x-t2’s. Prices at KEH and MPB have been at least $100 higher than I remember. I have no idea what’s actually driving it.
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Apr 28, 2021 00:56
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They aren't sold out everywhere, but some x-t4 bodies/kits seem to be back ordered on online retailers. Maybe supply not meeting demand for people upgrading has dried out the used market a bit and driven up prices?
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Apr 28, 2021 01:13
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There’s a microchip shortage cascading slowly through electronics - and stuff like cars, too. Used cars are going up in value. I guess, conceivably, Fuji cameras could too as there are production delays.
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Apr 28, 2021 05:32
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Been a surge in xpro1 and xpro2 prices as well.
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May 2, 2021 04:49
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Looking for goon recommendation on a camera and starting here. My primary intended use case is taking photos of all the lil' mini figures I'm painting these days. There is also a good chance I'll be moving back to Japan soon and want a good camera to capture of loving gorgeous the place is. Feel like its good to have something better than an iPhone camera these days in general. I was looking over the DSLR and point and shoot threads, but their OPs are 10-11 years old at this point. I'm thinking that a mirrorless camera would be a good middle point between the two, with the advantages of the DSLR with a smaller, more attractive size like a point and shoot. I have a feeling that having a smaller, more convenient camera will make me much more likely to use the drat thing. Budget-wise I feel like trying to stick to under $1k, maybe even around $500~. I don't want to sell myself short or anything, but I have a feeling that entry-level will be the level I stick around at for a good long while. Thoughts? I think the black and silver cameras are real classy lookin'.
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May 14, 2021 18:18
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There are a lot of knowledgable people here who will steer you better than me, but my one piece of advice is to take a close look at the dimensions of any cameras and lenses you're checking out. Don't assume it's going to be small because it's mirrorless. That was one of the promises of the technology at first, but as they've packed more poo poo and larger sensors into the cameras, a lot of them have ballooned in size. Like, I would definitely stick with a crop sensor like Micro Four Thirds or APS-C if you want to keep things lean. Edit: although you’re probably good on that front based on the prices you’re talking about. The bigger ones are also generally the pricey ones. Shart Carbuncle fucked around with this message at 18:29 on May 14, 2021 |
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May 14, 2021 18:27
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First thing that comes to mind would be a used fuji XT2. Go for a great price these days as its a few years old. On the smaller lighter side of cameras. And as its APS-C the lenses are smaller (and mostly cheaper) than the full frame equivalents. The XT range sell amazingly well for fujifilm so they will continue for a long time giving you lots of options of upgrades down the road too.
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May 14, 2021 18:32
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Sony A7II? Cheap good full frame and for the price you can probably live with the "ergonomics" and user interface... Add a macro lens. 55/2.8 Micro-nikkors are cheap. For af maybe a Sony FE 50mm 2.8 macro: https://phillipreeve.net/blog/rolling-review-sony-fe-2-850-macro/ Doubles as a general travel lens. Add maybe a wider lens like some 35mm lens later.
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May 14, 2021 18:58
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APS-C mirrorless can wander pretty close to 35mm and DSLR territory if you're not careful (e.g. the Fuji 16-55), so consider what sort of lenses you'd want and whether they would actually meet your size expectations on APS-C mirrorless. Most primes (but not all) and lower tier zooms like the 18-55 (don't be fooled by "lower tier", this is still a fantastic lens) are reasonably compact on Fuji. But some lenses, while still being a bit smaller than their 35mm mirrorless or APS-C DSLR equivalents, are still a large enough that they probably wouldn't meet the "smaller, more convenient camera" criteria. I'm a Fuji user, but given the requirements, a used micro 4/3rds system would be worth consideration. One big question is how serious you are about the mini figure photography. Depending on the results you're expecting, you may want a macro lens (or at least something with decently close focusing ability even if it's not technically macro) and/or a wide-ish aperature for those shots. Something to consider would be getting a dedicated prime lens for your figures, and then a compact-ish kit zoom (e.g. the 18-55 if we're talking Fuji) for general purpose / walk-around photos (e.g. for your Japan photos).
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May 14, 2021 19:09
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a lot of people hate it but the Panasonic G100 is tiny and plenty capable
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May 14, 2021 19:16
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Fuji is the best supported apsc system. Sony doesn't have as complete of an apsc lens line, but does have a ton of first/third party full frame lenses (including compact lenses), and their newest models have a really good autofocus tracking system. Micro four thirds has been around forever and has two first party manufacturers, but olympus just sold the camera business off and the tech isn't as competitive apsc/fullframe systems. Still a lot of good cameras and lenses, and you might be able to find a deal, especially as the newest bodies aren't huge improvements over the older cameras.
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May 14, 2021 19:17
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Interesting information. If I were to opt for a DSLR, would I be able to sacrifice the size benefit of the mirror-less for a price cut? Like, are mirror-less generally more expensive?
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May 14, 2021 22:45
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If there is a cost benefit it would probably be on the larger used lens market, but I'm not sure that's really the case anymore as crop mirrorless has been around for a long time now. Also canon and nikon they don't make a lot of prime lenses specifically for apsc dslrs, mostly just zooms and specialized lenses. And the modern third party lenses are cheap and perfectly decent, but most of the focus is on mirrorless lenses. For best value plan out your whole kit. A good deal on a good lens could be a reason to get into a system over another. Honestly there aren't any bad choices, but I would recommend buying used or refurbished if you are comfortable doing so. Then you can always move on if your requirements change.
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May 14, 2021 23:01
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Wrr posted:Looking for goon recommendation on a camera and starting here. Depends on the size of your minifigs, but the larger the sensor on the camera, the more shallow the depth of field (in other words, tricker to get everything in focus). For most users, a larger sensor is preferable, as the shallow DoF is what gives portraits that "DSLR" look, with the eyes/face/person in focus and the background all blurry. It sounds like you might have the opposite needs - getting the whole minifig in focus. As you get closer to the subject, DoF narrows, which is why pictures of bugs and stuff will have an almost razor-thin slice in focus. To an extent you can address this by stopping down the aperture of your macro lens (which will require more light to compensate, not too hard if you set up a little mini studio) but there are actually advantages to going with a micro-4/3 in your case, or even a really nice phone camera. The Micro Nikkor mentioned by someone else a few posts up is a solid recommendation: very affordable and high quality (only con is manual focus, but not a big issue for still life). You would not need the extension tube accessory for it at the size you're probably shooting, which will save you a bit of money. I'd probably go with a secondhand Olympus pro body (I don't shoot Oly so not super familiar with the model names/conventions), kit zoom, and the aforementioned macro. You'd also want to look at a few lights/modifiers, I'd probably go with hotlights (continuous bulbs or LEDs) rather than flashes.
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May 14, 2021 23:54
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If you’re looking into fuji just be warned that any 1:1 macro lens with auto focus will set you back at least $900 new. The 60/2.4 is only 1:2 and still $650 new… but it’s gone on sale a few times for $400 and is legit my favorite lens. Also I would take a very hard look at the canon EOS lenses before you jump in with them since using anything else will require an adapter.
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May 15, 2021 06:11
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You may find manual focus on a macro lens might be acceptable, and there are lots of choices, including adapting for mirrorless, and dumb extension tubes cost pretty much nothing. Price of the lenses is definitely something to think about. For Fuji used lenses have retained value pretty well, but there are a few less expensive choices, and viltrox is making af lenses in Fuji x now too.
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May 15, 2021 06:44
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I know it's an old-ish camera now, but has anyone else noticed that it seems to be nearly impossible to get Fuji X-T2 aftermarket batteries in the UK these days? I figured I'd grab another couple since mirrorless battery life is occasionally a bit suspect, but the ones I've always seen recommended (ExPro Ultra White, Patona Platinum) seem to be unavailable everywhere, and I don't fancy paying out £40+ per battery if I can help it.
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Jun 2, 2021 15:31
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The XT2 is battery compatible with the XT3 which is still sold so I don't think it a obsolescence thing. I think with obscure third party brands there's a certain churn where stuff comes and goes or turns up under different brand names. Google turns up Duracell branded versions at half the price of the official Fuji ones. Or Hahnel, I used to be use them years ago for Canon batteries. Pablo Bluth fucked around with this message at 15:53 on Jun 2, 2021 |
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Jun 2, 2021 15:51
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Capture One just announced that they are working on a release for the new iPad  Coming 2022  Nonetheless I'm stoked as hell for this.
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Jun 4, 2021 14:51
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Iiiiinteresting. I've been a little jealous of the adobe integration with ipads and being able to use raw files on them and stuff, but I'm a Capture One boy through and through. Lightroom: never again.
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Jun 4, 2021 18:00
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My hookup for cheap Creative Cloud quit Adobe so I'm definitely going to start looking at alternatives.
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Jun 4, 2021 19:00
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Yeah since I'm a Fuji Fanboi this is definitely great news. Honestly now I doubt I'll upgrade my 2015 MBP for a bunch more years since I'll be able to use Capture One on the iPad. I'm stoked about this.
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Jun 4, 2021 19:08
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I'd be ecstatic if it allowed tethered shooting, but I can almost guarantee it won't 
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Jun 5, 2021 05:26
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Hello friends. Long time, no see. What is the best way to put my XT-20 on continuous power, being able to plug it in? I really want to be able to take shots for longer than the battery will allow.
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Jun 6, 2021 03:39
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Internet Explorer posted:Hello friends. Long time, no see. I’ve regularly used an anker battery pack via USB to an xt2 which I assume would be the same functionally as a xt20. I managed to get near a full days use with a big boy pack zip tied to a smallrig cage shooting 4k. One thing I noticed is that it draws more juice from the battery pack if I plug it in after the camera is turned on vs otherwise slowly draining the internal battery.
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Jun 6, 2021 07:49
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Huh, for some reason I thought it was more complicated than that. I am using an intervalometer, so the USB port is in use. It does seem like Fuji sells something that can plug into the battery port. https://fujifilm-x.com/global/products/accessories/cp-w126/ Internet Explorer fucked around with this message at 17:22 on Jun 6, 2021 |
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Jun 6, 2021 17:03
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Since the thread is on the topic of Fujis… I’m interested in finding one of the x series models. I’m okay with it being older. Is there one (or a few) in particular people recommend watching out for?
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Jun 7, 2021 00:59
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Niemat posted:Since the thread is on the topic of Fujis… I’m interested in finding one of the x series models. I’m okay with it being older. Is there one (or a few) in particular people recommend watching out for? You probably want an X-T2.
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Jun 7, 2021 04:28
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The x-t1/2/3/4 are the larger professional style bodies, the x-t10/20/30 are the scaled back/smaller enthusiast ones, the x-e1/2/2s/3/4 are the range finder style bodies. You can probably pick by your favorite body style and price point if you don't have any specific requirements, don't care about autofocusing features, video features, etc. The x-pro1/2/3 have a gimmicky evf/optical viewfinder and unless you really want that there are probably better deals to be had. There is also a cheaper x-a series that use the more normal bayer sensors and don't have viewfinders, or the also entry level x-t100/200 which also have bayer sensors but are more in the x-t10/20/30 vein. The x-t200 has also been on sale for $500 with the kit lens in the past, which is a very good deal. The fuji xf 18-55mm f2.8-4 has been around a while and is a good zoom to look out for, if you are buying your lens separately.
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Jun 7, 2021 05:10
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Internet Explorer posted:Huh, for some reason I thought it was more complicated than that. I am using an intervalometer, so the USB port is in use. It does seem like Fuji sells something that can plug into the battery port. That should work as well as long as you're providing enough power. From what I remember from my measurements camera would draw somewhere around 300 milliamps for standard HD, around 600 for slomo, 900 for 4k and up to 2,000 for physical shutter burst. This is with the back screen on, probably less with it off. If you plug into a wall you should be fine I'd imagine, if its a power bank it might depend on how much power it can deliver.  Naturally the USB cat helps provide cleaner juice to the camera. But in all seriousness, I think I had to find a micro-usb cable that would only provide power and not also data for it to work.
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Jun 7, 2021 07:36
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Niemat posted:Since the thread is on the topic of Fujis… I’m interested in finding one of the x series models. I’m okay with it being older. Is there one (or a few) in particular people recommend watching out for? Echoing others, the X-T2 or X-T20 is what you want depending on budget and size - the X-T20 is a bit smaller, the X-T2 has two card slots and probably better buffer/drive for high-speed use. The 18-55 2.8-4 is amazing, any of the ‘Fujicrons’ (16 2.8, 23 2, 35 2 or 50 2) are great starter lenses.
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Jun 7, 2021 07:42
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The other big difference between the X-T2 and X-T20 is that the X-T2 is weather sealed, if that matters to you. We spend a lot of time near the water/boats so we wanted something that could keep up with us. I really wish my X-T3 was smaller like an X-T30 but it was also nice to just towel it down and rinse it off when my kid dumped half a bottle of milk on it last week. Not all lenses are weather sealed, look for WR on the lens model name, and also keep in mind that weather resistant does not mean water proof Last thing, is that the X-T2/T20 do not use USB-C, which the X-T3/T30 does have; so charging on the go/data transfer in the field is going to be That Much Harder. You can safely ignore this advice if you're both an iPhone user, AND who doesn't have a 2020 or newer iPad, ANDalso doesn't have a macbook newer than 2016, otherwise you probably are already carrying the correct charging brick/cable to charge the X-T3/T30/T4/T40
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Jun 7, 2021 08:50
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Anyone have a fringer NF-FX?
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Jun 8, 2021 15:48
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Olympus has announced an 8-25mm f/4.0 PRO lens
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Jun 9, 2021 12:40
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I don't really like f/4 lenses on m4/3 system but that seems like a really sweet lens.
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Jun 9, 2021 13:03
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