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I just use the same ONR wash and spray wax or Beadmaker top coat as the rest of the car on the clear film areas of mine. If I was doing it again, I would have done clear bra on the A-pillars and leading edge of the roof along with the bumper, front of hood, and mirror caps: there are still plenty of rock chips on those other areas now.
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May 15, 2021 00:34
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I have a car with clearcoat that is fine on most of the car but peeling on the roof. How do I strip the old stuff off and apply new clear coat? I'm pretty sure the paint underneath it is fine. I have access to a garage I can use as a paint booth if need be, but I'm not sure what equipment I would need to buy vs borrowing.
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May 18, 2021 23:18
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How professional do you want to get? This is the “good enough” way. I haven’t done it but am planning on completing this summer. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_v8qPqPmr0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UywE_eY-Si0 Or if you want to strip and spray I believe this video covers it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0_DzSWkcdwg
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May 19, 2021 00:01
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Clear coat stuff is super useful, thank you for sharing. My MR2 had a maaco paint job before I bought it, and there is a ton of overspray on the rubber. Is there an easy way to remove that, even if it’s been on there for many years? It’s ok if it damages the paint, I plan to repaint since the maaco job is peeling and looks like dogshit.
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May 19, 2021 13:50
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There is also that liquid clear coat that you can paint on that Optimum makes. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7dWZkkc_G4E
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May 19, 2021 15:50
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So uh my local Pep Boys is apparently going out of business and has everything 40% off for in store purchases (not including tires, auto parts, or batteries). I originally went to the store for oil/filters today but when I saw the sale I also grabbed a Mother's synthetic clay, some invisible glass wipes, and a 24 pack of microfibers. I just moved and am waiting for my stuff to be delivered from storage. I think I should make a shopping list and go back - this could be a good opportunity to load up for the next year or two, since I think I had to get rid of most of my garage chemicals (pack out was a few years ago so I'm not totally sure what I have). I was tempted to get this Griot's Garage buffer, but don't know anything about it. Maybe an older version or a cheaper version of their flagship products? Worth buying for $100 or so? https://pepboys.com/griot-s-garage-random-orbital-kit-6-/product/1804955 edit: Googling leads me to believe this thing is also known as the "G6" and is pretty good for the price? Tyro fucked around with this message at 18:59 on May 24, 2021 |
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May 24, 2021 18:33
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so that's the prior generation model, I have one and it's been good for me. the newest generation of buffers (g9, g8, g12, g15) have slightly better ergonomics. the current gen model seems to have far more competition (Adam's and Harbor freight that look almost exactly the same... possibly built in the same factory
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May 25, 2021 00:14
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I’ve got that one too. IIRC it comes with a 6” backing plate, you’ll really want to buy a 5” one later. I found the 6” pad stalled a lot because it doesn’t have a ton of power. Totally a great entry level until, was my first.
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May 25, 2021 02:55
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Cool, thanks! Looks like there's also a $20 mail in rebate on it which would bring it to $80 or so out the door. I'll probably snag one today if still in stock.
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May 25, 2021 11:18
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I was out working in the garage with my dog today and when my sister came over he got super excited and jumped all over my (brand new) Soul Red Mazda3. I have the HF Bauer dual action polisher on order (on sale for $50 this weekend!) and a bottle of Ultimate Compound; do I stand a good chance of getting these scratches out (plus a bunch of lighter ones) with this setup? Also, would these pads be an OK place to start (maybe starting with blue?)  hd gif Bouillon Rube fucked around with this message at 02:46 on Jun 1, 2021 |
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Jun 1, 2021 02:36
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I haven’t used Ultimate Compound, but usually with Compounds you need to finish with a polish to remove haze. I’m a big fan of 3D Speed or 3D One if you want protection. They are all in ones the can correct minor scratches and polish out with the same pad. You go a bit drastic on the pad- probably orange- but don’t need multiple steps/products. If you can’t get 3D, there are others from AutoGeek and Rupes that I’ve used with success.
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Jun 1, 2021 15:34
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I don’t have a lot of time to detail my car (a newborn and a toddler take most of my time) but I want to get rid of some scratches and a few chips on the hood. I try and hand wash the car once a month. Here’s a link to some pictures. I don’t think they’re too deep but I’m not sure the best course of action. I didn’t take pictures of the chips but they are very small (like the size of a panko bread crumb) and I guess Dr. Colorchip is the way to go for those. Anyways-what’s the best bang for the buck in fixing these scratches? I don’t think any of them are too deep. https://imgur.com/gallery/gRNsRt1
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Jun 3, 2021 01:34
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Couple questions- on that first one when you run your fingernail across is does it catch? Looks like it went pretty deep. The others look mild enough. What’s your budget? I’ve been addicted for a while so I’ve sank a bunch of money into the hobby over the years. You mention not a lot of time, but do you want this to be a hobby for the time you have or just good enough to not see the scratches?
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Jun 3, 2021 01:39
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savesthedayrocks posted:Couple questions- My fingernail doesn’t catch on that one-I can feel there’s a scratch running my nail across it but it doesn’t get stuck. I noticed there’s a smaller one on the hood about 1” long that my finger does catch on though. This in no way will be a hobby-I just don’t have the time to sink into it, so I’d rather not buy a DA buffer and all the likes right now. I know the dr color chip thing for the chips is already $50, so I’d liked to keep the whole thing under $150?
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Jun 3, 2021 01:50
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I may be missing the mark with what you are looking to achieve with your question so hopefully others chime in. Looks like you have two choices: 1) For $150 buy the supplies. There are kits available that will come in under $150, it just won’t be a long term polisher to use. Totally fine for a couple days of work. A friend has this and said it’s ok, looks like a replica of many available polishers: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089N83CWF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_WD4J9WHSN6MNXVBMR8EZ You could also do the Bauer(harbor freight polisher), an all in one, and get a couple pads. 2) Look for a local detailer that offers a wash and all in one correction for $150. This should be pretty close to budget, they won’t fix everything but will get most of the lighter scratches. You can apply the Dr Colorchip to the bigger chips beforehand, let it dry, and tell them where they are so they don’t spend a lot of time there.
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Jun 3, 2021 02:17
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Just strip washed and then light clayed and then finished up with Chemical Guys (yes I know they're kinda overpriced/overmarketed but drat I'm happy how it looks) HydroSlick. (I'll note I didn't polish or do any correcting, so the oops I mention below might be my fault) I did end up seeing some super light (basically invisible except in the right lighting conditions) scratches on the hood, I don't know if it was from the car existing, or me getting a bit too heavy with the clay bar on the hood, and I still haven't decided if I wanna just accept pretty close to perfection here, or break down and get some Ultimate Polish and strip wash the hood and redo my work. I'm pretty sure Ultimate Polish would do it given how unnoticeable it is, but I don't know if I feel like I need to be chasing perfection or just go "enough is enough, it looks drat good and stupid reflective".
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Jun 3, 2021 04:02
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savesthedayrocks posted:I may be missing the mark with what you are looking to achieve with your question so hopefully others chime in. So for $155 I found a package that will do this: Hand Wash Hand Dry Wax Polish Clean Tires Clean Rims Wash and Wax Door Jambs Clean Plastic and Rubber Trim + Detail Logos + Engine Wipedown (by request) For $195 they’ll do this: Hand Wash Hand Dry Wax Polish Clean Tires Clean Rims Wash and Wax Door Jambs Clean Plastic and Rubber Trim + Detail Logos + Clay Bar Treatment + Paint Protection + Engine Wipedown (by request) + Rain X (by request) It’s a 2017 I just bought used but I doubt the dealership clay barred it. The paint is fairly smooth though. In any case-which would you recommend? And should I fix the paint chips before or after they come out?
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Jun 3, 2021 09:04
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Yep, so both of those have polish as one of the items, so that’s what you are looking for. Polish usually gets out minor scratches like you mentioned. Any good professional will be up front about what they can and can’t fix for that price, so that’s my recommendation on next step. I’m sure they would want to physically see it, then discuss next steps. That would be where you can ask about paint chips to see their preference. If it were me, I’d complete the paint chips about a month before correcting. The issue is that you want the paint to set before you heat it up with a polisher. All of those options also included a wax or protection, so doing it after causes the paint to be applied over the protection which will break down in a month or so. Edit: just noticed the first one doesn’t mention clay bar. I would be wary of how they would correct the paint with out claying first. If you aren’t removing embedded contamination, you are just grinding with the polisher. savesthedayrocks fucked around with this message at 14:49 on Jun 3, 2021 |
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Jun 3, 2021 14:46
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So if I were to get my bumpers repainted, I should wait a month before doing a detail? Or should I just get the detail done first?
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Jun 3, 2021 16:06
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Is wait until after if it were me. There’s a cure time to paint, the painter will tell you how long before you can wash. Doing before, they are just going to stop the wax/sealant to sand and paint.
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Jun 3, 2021 20:11
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Any idea of an equivalent towel that's available in the US? I know there are some that look like it, but still scared to death to blindly try one after seeing what a bad clay towel can do. https://youtu.be/4QMjt4ztWrs
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Jun 5, 2021 16:08
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Best bug remover? Ive been using mcguires red degreaser in a 4:1 mix, but is there anything better?
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Jun 7, 2021 12:00
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Thread recommended tire dressing/cleaner? Tired of the super caustic foam that bad for paint and driveway.
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Jun 7, 2021 13:40
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Voltage posted:Best bug remover? Ive been using mcguires red degreaser in a 4:1 mix, but is there anything better? I just used this yesterday. I don’t have much to compare it to, but we had take a road trip over Memorial Day and I hadn’t gotten around to washing. Diluted it to about 3:1 and let it sit for a couple minutes. Pressure washer blasted them right off with no residue. I’m a sucker for anything P and S, great guys and all of their products have worked well for me: https://www.autogeek.net/ps-bug-off-remover.html
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Jun 7, 2021 14:49
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Tire dressing and cleaner are usually 2 different products; the tire really should be cleaned with an APC or dedicated rubber cleaner before dressing. As for dressings: smooth jazz posted:I've tried about half a dozen tire dressings and found a all of them and included a spreadsheet with the findings.
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Jun 7, 2021 21:14
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I’m sure I’ve said it in this thread and I’ll say it again: Bleche Wite is my favorite tire cleaner. Get the tire wet, spray it on, scrub, rinse, repeat until it stops turning brown. Makes tires look brand new. gently caress tire shine.
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Jun 9, 2021 15:39
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Big Taint posted:I’m sure I’ve said it in this thread and I’ll say it again: Bleche Wite is my favorite tire cleaner. Get the tire wet, spray it on, scrub, rinse, repeat until it stops turning brown. Makes tires look brand new. gently caress tire shine. quote:NOTE: Do not allow product to contact magnesium or aluminum wheels, painted or glass surfaces, eyewear, fabric and non-rubber items. Permanent damage can occur. USE ONLY AS PER LABEL DIRECTIONS. Man that aluminum warning really puts it right-out for me. How uh, serious is getting it on aluminum?
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Jun 9, 2021 19:32
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Your aluminum wheels are likely covered in a protective urethane paint.
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Jun 9, 2021 19:51
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Big Taint posted:I’m sure I’ve said it in this thread and I’ll say it again: Bleche Wite is my favorite tire cleaner. Get the tire wet, spray it on, scrub, rinse, repeat until it stops turning brown. Makes tires look brand new. gently caress tire shine. Oh yeah, that stuff fucks.
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Jun 9, 2021 21:07
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Thanks for the info y’all. Bleche-wite it is. I was trying to get away from the meguiars foam I’ve been using.
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Jun 9, 2021 21:11
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taqueso posted:Your aluminum wheels are likely covered in a protective urethane paint. Ya I’ve never had a car with bare aluminum wheels, if they are painted it’s fine. Never noticed it doing anything weird to any curb rash or anything either. Maybe it would dull polished bare aluminum or something?
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Jun 10, 2021 01:30
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I just washed my car by hand for the first time ever because I didn't realize there was even a self-service car wash where I am now. I used dish soap diluted in water and a glove like this: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Deluxe-Microfiber-Wash-Mitt/dp/B0711KTX4N Now when it's time to rinse off the soap before drying it down, I'm getting the worn/rough clear coat on the roof catching onto whatever I'm using to rinse, I tried using the glove again after washing it what I thought was thoroughly and it's scraping a ton of dirt off of it, I might need to toss it in the laundry to clean the glove. I tried using one of those blue shop paper towels and it's grabbing the towel, do I need to get another glove? A sponge? Would a magic eraser gently caress up the situation even more? I swear I have a box of them around here somewhere. Help me goons, my car is covered in drying soap. I have an air compressor but no pressure washer or leaf blower or any kind of sprayer. Maybe in the future I'll immediately go over the section I washed with the air compressor but I thought it should be a wash, rinse, dry process.
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Jun 12, 2021 22:53
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I just washed my car by hand for the first time ever because I didn't realize there was even a self-service car wash where I am now. I used dish soap diluted in water and a glove like this: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Deluxe-Microfiber-Wash-Mitt/dp/B0711KTX4N You've got a lot going on in that paragraph. The wash mitt is good. But if you're catching on failing clearcoat, a wash doesn't really matter. You can let the soap dry on those sections and it won't damage it further (it's already gone). Give the whole car a massive rinse, until the water runs off clear and free of soap bubbles, then dry the areas where the clear isn't failing.
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Jun 12, 2021 22:57
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EVERYWHERE 
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Okay, so are you suggesting I just dump buckets of water over the car? I just found out today when I tried to fill the buckets at the spigot outside that it doesn't work so I can't use a hose. Doing at least a temporary clear-coat fix is on my to-do list with this car, it's the project car I have a thread for. I'm mostly just focusing on the mechanical stuff first, but I've got enough dirt roads around here that I wanted to at least get it clean-ish. It's got some rock chips all the way down to the primer on the hood and a scrape on one of the fenders, I fully recognize that anything I do short of a full strip and spray or vinyl wrap is palliative.
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Jun 12, 2021 23:03
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Okay, so are you suggesting I just dump buckets of water over the car? I just found out today when I tried to fill the buckets at the spigot outside that it doesn't work so I can't use a hose. I just looked at your SVX thread and the pics don't show the condition fully, but there is definitely faded paint. That's old enough that it may be a single stage paint. In that case, it could just be little nibs of poo poo catching your mitt. Next step would be to clay the top and see if the nibs come off and leave a smooth surface, or if the clay cakes up from taking too much surface material. For right now, a couple buckets of water will suffice, I assumed you had a hose nearby. The nice thing is that soap is generally benign, so if you have some left over, no real harm will come.
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Jun 12, 2021 23:06
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Thanks, I'll pick up a clay bar from O'Reilly's before work and see if I can get the crap off of it. Before this car I've always kind of tried to treat my cars well mechanically but not given a gently caress what they look like so I just took them through the drive-through car wash occasionally, this thing I'm trying to restore as best as I can because I see it like a piece of mechanical art, so I'm having to learn a lot as I go. I assumed I had a hose handy as well until I tried to turn it on  . Just more poo poo to fix I guess.
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Jun 13, 2021 09:18
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Thanks, I'll pick up a clay bar from O'Reilly's before work Get a synthetic clay, they're much better. And use plenty of lube. Lube it up real good.
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Jun 13, 2021 12:38
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Yeah I got a synthetic clay for the first time and tried it out this week, I liked it a lot. Easier/more comfortable to use.
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Jun 13, 2021 12:55
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We were using Bleche-White back in high school early 90’s. Found out the hard way when aluminum wheels started being more prevalent, would turn them kind of chalky white looking.
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Jun 13, 2021 17:38
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meatpimp posted:Get a synthetic clay, they're much better. And use plenty of lube. Lube it up real good. Will do, thanks. Didn't make it out before work, what kind of lube are you talking about? I'm going to assume I shouldn't be smearing my black chrome-moly bearing grease all over my paint. I've also got some kind of crap smeared along the rear right quarter of the car, no idea where it came from but thankfully it doesn't seem to be remnants of a hit and run or anything like I was worried about at first, the paint is still fine under there. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 20:31 on Jun 13, 2021 |
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Jun 13, 2021 20:29
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