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Anyone familiar with lighting on an ender 3 skree mini board? Should I be looking into neopixel? w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 05:27 on Jun 12, 2021 |
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Jun 12, 2021 05:07
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w00tmonger posted:Anyone familiar with lighting on an ender 3 skree mini board? what, are you making a  RGB printer?
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Jun 12, 2021 06:42
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BMan posted:what, are you making a I want to but don't know where to start. Moved it into a lack enclosure and bed to improve the lighting in there. I've seen some scripting for print status etc can be done, but I have no idea how workable the Api's are
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Jun 12, 2021 14:09
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w00tmonger posted:I want to but don't know where to start. Moved it into a lack enclosure and bed to improve the lighting in there. There’s an octoprint plugin called ws2812status (I think?) that will probably just do what you want out of the box
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Jun 12, 2021 14:35
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RabbitWizard posted:Disclaimer: I have no idea what I'm talking about and my advice will break your printer and set it on fire. So I flashed the firmware from here: https://github.com/ChadDevOps/Marlin-Ender-3-Max Issued a m502 Tried autohoming. Cringed when it rammed against the right side X stop. Shut it down & disconnected. Turned back on & hooked up Pronterface again. Set it back to the furthest left position again. Set this as the new home. Sent a m500 Had it autohome a few more times, making sure it was consistent now. It still autohomes to the center of the bed, but recognizes that as X:150/Y:150, rather than as X:0/Y:150.
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Jun 13, 2021 22:40
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Now that it actually knows where to go, I discovered a second problem: Filament does not extrude right. I made a video of it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nvec611FiKk
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Jun 13, 2021 22:54
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cybrancyborg posted:Filament does not extrude right. I made a video of it
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Jun 13, 2021 23:15
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Yeah, you need to kink the tip of the filament against it's natural bend and actually get it into the hole before letting the printer try and feed it.
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Jun 13, 2021 23:20
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Okay, you're right. I couldn't see the hole to the tube and thought it was going to the right place. Now I know to hold the spring release while I feed the filament in and make sure it goes all the way through. I though the wheels would just guide it in the right way naturally.
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Jun 14, 2021 00:17
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Any recommendations for a flexible build plate for the Ender 3? I have an ender 3 pro and the included magnetic build plate (textured fridge-magnet style) has been great but is starting to crack and delaminate. I'd like another magnetic flexible build plate to use primarily with PETG but ideally it would be capable of handling higher temperatures (at least up to 100 degrees) so I could print ABS/ASA. Stretch goal is to also have the ability to paint my magigoo PP glue onto it so I can print the occasional GF filled PP.
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Jun 14, 2021 05:11
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Would a spring steel bed be better than the stock style?
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Jun 14, 2021 05:59
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Blackhawk posted:Any recommendations for a flexible build plate for the Ender 3? I have an ender 3 pro and the included magnetic build plate (textured fridge-magnet style) has been great but is starting to crack and delaminate. I'd like another magnetic flexible build plate to use primarily with PETG but ideally it would be capable of handling higher temperatures (at least up to 100 degrees) so I could print ABS/ASA. Stretch goal is to also have the ability to paint my magigoo PP glue onto it so I can print the occasional GF filled PP. I like the Buildtak system. I use mine with Garolite on one side and regular Buildtak on the other. https://www.matterhackers.com/store/c/BuildTakFlexPlate
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Jun 14, 2021 06:38
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I started reading about lubrication for the axes and now I know nothing. Product/TypeX gets recommended on one site and the next site tells you it's the worst thing you can use. Can anyone recommend something? I definitely need something that doesn't attract dust.
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Jun 14, 2021 09:25
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The only dust-free lubricant is one where you put the printer in a hermetically sealed container and never use it. Regular/periodic cleaning and lubrication of the axes on a printer is just something you have to do. Like literally any other machine on the planet.
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Jun 14, 2021 10:44
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Idk, maybe there are lubricants which are extra good at attracting dust or lose their lubricating properties faster  I know I have to do it periodically. I only want to know if I should use something with PTFE or Teflon or if the machine grease I can get a bucket for 2$ is good enough.
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Jun 14, 2021 11:04
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RabbitWizard posted:Idk, maybe there are lubricants which are extra good at attracting dust or lose their lubricating properties faster Machine grease will work, but the extra dollars you spent on a better lubricant is what you'll trade off against the time to clean up the mess in the future and have to replace parts. Last I bought some, the Teflon lubricants were still cheap enough that it was a no brainer for me. It's not like I needed much.
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Jun 14, 2021 12:20
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I just buy those little applicator tubes of white lithium grease and apply some to the rods/rails occasionally (after cleaning off the old lubricant once I notice it degrading) 
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Jun 14, 2021 12:33
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snail posted:Last I bought some, the Teflon lubricants were still cheap enough that it was a no brainer for me. Edit: ^ I was also looking at lithium grease before but some people had very negative opinions about it. But maybe I'm overthinking it and it is also cheaper. RabbitWizard fucked around with this message at 12:37 on Jun 14, 2021 |
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Jun 14, 2021 12:33
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I use SuperLube with Teflon. It works fine. Any wet lube will attract and hold dust.
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Jun 14, 2021 13:17
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i use whatever came with my prusa.
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Jun 14, 2021 13:45
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Deviant posted:i use whatever came with my prusa. Pretty sure that's just lithium grease, but it comes with a nifty bearing lubricator if you disassemble your printer down to that point for major periodic maintenance.
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Jun 14, 2021 14:00
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Oooh, Clickbait https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oX4up29xUuw
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Jun 14, 2021 15:10
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My Mono X LCD just went belly-up. Does anyone have a link to a replacement screen that works with this printer? Anycubic support usually take months to get a replacement to me. On a side note -- I've been printing almost non-stop since mid-December and this marks the 6th printer that has been lost to this problem (2 Mono X, 1 Mono SE, 2 Mars2 Pros, and a Voxelab Proxima 6). A couple came from the factory with the problem, and the rest developed it after printing for a while.
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Jun 14, 2021 15:58
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/174610372436 maybe?. EDIT: Apparently there are two screens used for that printer, and this may be the other one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/114833346633
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Jun 14, 2021 16:25
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Blackhawk posted:Any recommendations for a flexible build plate for the Ender 3? I have an ender 3 pro and the included magnetic build plate (textured fridge-magnet style) has been great but is starting to crack and delaminate. I'd like another magnetic flexible build plate to use primarily with PETG but ideally it would be capable of handling higher temperatures (at least up to 100 degrees) so I could print ABS/ASA. Stretch goal is to also have the ability to paint my magigoo PP glue onto it so I can print the occasional GF filled PP. The TH3D plates (EZflex or whatever) have worked pretty well for me. For PETG get the textured.
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Jun 14, 2021 16:39
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biracial bear for uncut posted:https://www.ebay.com/itm/174610372436 maybe?. Thanks. I guess I need to get at my screen as a first step to make sure I get the correct replacement.
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Jun 14, 2021 16:40
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InternetJunky posted:Thanks. I guess I need to get at my screen as a first step to make sure I get the correct replacement. Grain of salt, the only reason I linked the second screen is because the listing for the first screen says that there may be a second screen that is the correct one depending on the production run. Read the listing on the first link to see what I'm talking about.
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Jun 14, 2021 16:42
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Pretty sure that's just lithium grease, but it comes with a nifty bearing lubricator if you disassemble your printer down to that point for major periodic maintenance. edit: there's an STL.
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Jun 14, 2021 16:53
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Deviant posted:this must be new, i did not get one of tthese. oh god it even has a flared base
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Jun 14, 2021 17:15
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Deviant posted:this must be new, i did not get one of tthese. https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/32359-prusa-lubricant-lm8uu-adaptor-bearing-pacifier
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Jun 14, 2021 18:09
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Kalman posted:The TH3D plates (EZflex or whatever) have worked pretty well for me. For PETG get the textured. Thanks looks good, but lol of course out of stock. Wonder how long they're going to be on back-order for...
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Jun 15, 2021 02:42
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I wonder if anyone more resin savvy than me has thoughts on this? Printing a pair of cosplay horns, and it looks like one of them ripped clean off the plate. I hollowed them out and gave them holes at the bases to avoid FEP suction, and i've printed these successfully before, albeit at a slightly smaller size. All I've done since then is install the wham bam plate. I'm using Anycubic Gray on a Photon Mono X that I've printed successfully with on lots of parts so far.  
Deviant fucked around with this message at 03:13 on Jun 15, 2021 |
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Jun 15, 2021 02:47
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Did you re-level after installing the wham-bam plate?
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Jun 15, 2021 03:16
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Blackhawk posted:Thanks looks good, but lol of course out of stock. Wonder how long they're going to be on back-order for... I put a notify request on and want to say it was a month or so before I got a notification?
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Jun 15, 2021 03:24
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Bucnasti posted:Did you re-level after installing the wham-bam plate? I think so? If not I'm trying again with the following: - sanding the wham bam with 400 grit they included - burn in layers 6 -> 8 - burn in exposure 20s -> 40s - lift speed 3mm/s -> 2mm/s - re-leveled via the flint method in this, from a wham bam website PDF relevant to the Mono X:  So we'll see how it plays. There's a non zero chance the stars just aligned wrong, because i've used the original settings and printed these objects before. We'll see in the morning if I made horns or if I made garbage. Deviant fucked around with this message at 03:27 on Jun 15, 2021 |
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Jun 15, 2021 03:25
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Trying to mount a bunch of these bins I bought to the wall, and I'm trying to find a 3d print off the wall mounted rack portion. Anyone know where I could find a file to print? Not even sure what I should be looking up to find some
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Jun 15, 2021 05:26
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Ugh, the reprint did the same thing, but worse. I'm gonna clean the vat and start fresh tomorrow.
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Jun 15, 2021 06:23
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w00tmonger posted:Trying to mount a bunch of these bins I bought to the wall, and I'm trying to find a 3d print off the wall mounted rack portion. This is an alternative to a big plate: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:572011 Those bins are called parts bins, sometimes akrobins, that might help searching.
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Jun 15, 2021 06:35
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w00tmonger posted:Trying to mount a bunch of these bins I bought to the wall, and I'm trying to find a 3d print off the wall mounted rack portion. Outside of printing just the brackets you need as linked by taqueso, it would be better to just get the panel you need and mount it on the wall. https://www.amazon.com/Akro-Mils-30136-Louvered-Mounting-AkroBins/dp/B003BT4G8Y Scroll down the listing and you'll see links to other layout options. One of those and a few screws and you'll be set. Just because you can 3d print it doesn't mean you should. Something like the panel you pictured would be a supports/orientation nightmare in FDM and I don't think very many hobby-level SLA printers would be big enough to print one.
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Jun 15, 2021 11:00
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Deviant posted:Ugh, the reprint did the same thing, but worse. I'm gonna clean the vat and start fresh tomorrow. Looks support failure to me. It's clear it was sticking for a while and then got pulled off. Are those auto-generated? You will need to supplement those. First thing I would do is go around the inside perimeter of the base of the horn and put a bunch of light supports around the perimeter, every 1-2mm or so. They aren't strictly needed, but I find that they help a lot. But that won't be all. Add strategic medium supports to the areas that face the build plate, and also 3-4 on the inside of the base of the horn. You may also want to consider strategic Large supports, but those will require a little more clean up. I assume you are going to have to sand it anyway. You may also want to make your support base thicker (I aim for .75) and increate the bottom layers to match (e.g. 15 layers for .75 @.05 layer height) - however they look pretty good, so I would try the supports first.
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Jun 15, 2021 12:17
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