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Thanks, I will try both acetone and spar urethane varnish. Notably both of which were not solutions I found in prior research.A Wizard of Goatse posted:Welcome to woodworking, basically. We've been at this poo poo for thousands of years and it's still mostly a bunch of wildly conflicting Grandpa's Secret Family Recipes.
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Jun 9, 2021 23:39
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I haven't messed around with purpleheart, but I did a piece in padauk a few years ago that has held it's color fairly well under a regular pre-cat lacquer with no extra UV blockers. It's in a bright room with lots of natural light, but no direct sun I don't think. I kind of hope it does start to fade because I really like the brown that padauk turns to. The purpleheart brown less so, but it's not a bad color. The way woods age and oxidize into a million shades of brown over time, sometimes over like, decades really fascinates me and I think it's a big part of why antiques look the way they do. It's just really hard to replicate the the effect of simultaneously oxidizing and darkening but also fading from sunlight etc. Satinwood is one of my favorite woods that starts out a really vibrant golden yellow-the color I wish maple was- but then over a hundred years it turns this really nice pale honey brown with wild figure that is, to me, so much prettier than the bright color it starts out as. There's some really incredible, delicate Edwardian satinwood furniture out there that is English cabinetmaking at it's peak of skill and style and it humbles me every time I come across it.Serenade posted:Thanks, I will try both acetone and spar urethane varnish. Notably both of which were not solutions I found in prior research.
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Jun 10, 2021 00:20
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I am slowly getting better at having a taste for choosing appropriate mat colors and woods to compliment frames December  January  April  May  June 
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Jun 10, 2021 02:08
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Who is December? The art looks familiar. May is Jeremy Bastion, right?
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Jun 10, 2021 02:43
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Uthor posted:Who is December? The art looks familiar. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Hunt_of_the_Unicorn
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Jun 10, 2021 03:13
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Is that Roast Beef in April?
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Jun 10, 2021 03:20
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So a while back someone was asking about the cheap 5-gallon bucket type dust collectors and whether they work. This is the results of my cheapo off of Amazon after jointing some pearwood and castello boxwood. I was almost completely using 1/32 passes on the jointer. The amount of sawdust collected in the shop-vac was about equal to the amount in the bucket, but I think the bucket would have collected more if I'd realized how much dust I was actually generating and had emptied it a couple of times instead of letting it fill up like this. Also if I was taking thicker passes and generating larger chips I'm sure it would be more effective. Still, I would say it does a fair job at taking at least 50% of the sawdust out of the air before it gets to the shop-vac. 
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Jun 10, 2021 04:09
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Olothreutes posted:Is that Roast Beef in April? The middle cat. Not Ray, not Pat.
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Jun 10, 2021 06:58
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The Locator posted:So a while back someone was asking about the cheap 5-gallon bucket type dust collectors and whether they work. This is the results of my cheapo off of Amazon after jointing some pearwood and castello boxwood. I was almost completely using 1/32 passes on the jointer. You have this hooked up backwards. Your shop vac’s hose plugs into the top, not the side.
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Jun 10, 2021 07:10
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LlamaTrauma posted:You have this hooked up backwards. Your shop vac’s hose plugs into the top, not the side. Yup. Will work much better.
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Jun 10, 2021 07:16
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LlamaTrauma posted:You have this hooked up backwards. Your shop vac’s hose plugs into the top, not the side. Lol.. I might be an idiot. Thanks.
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Jun 10, 2021 07:21
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Ready for finish! (and the paper for the panels). Traditionally the lattice panels are unfinished so yay less work for me. The walnut frames I'm going to finish with watco danish oil because low effort and looks great. Trying to decide if I should splash out for some authentic shoji paper or just use craft store vellum. 
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Jun 10, 2021 12:15
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Jun 10, 2021 16:12
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more falafel please posted:The middle cat. Not Ray, not Pat. A-one and A-two....arggggh....... who cut the cheese?
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Jun 10, 2021 17:54
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Uthor posted:Who is December? The art looks familiar. My ex got it at a furry convention last year, as well as a dope baphomet with many tiddies print, and let me choose the one I wanted, but left both with me Well after we split, I found that print, as well as a big pile of zebrawood I’d bought to build her a desk that would not be started before the breakup, and combined the two as a Christmas gift for her. That is an unnecessary backstory to say “I have no idea” May is, in fact, Jeremy Bastion, whom I’ve met at several cons and I think I have framed line five different prints of his at this point, plus all of his books. Jeremy is great. And that’s an Onstad original from earlier this year, some random bootleg of Amano’s FFVI concept art, and some random pancake prints I found on Etsy. Sockser fucked around with this message at 00:59 on Jun 11, 2021 |
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Jun 11, 2021 00:56
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I'm gluing up two pieces of cherry to form bed legs using titlebond III. 1.75" before to 3.5" after thick, 6" wide, and ~5' long for the headboard legs. At what point do I cross from "that glue is 99% set" to "you are being completely ridiculous, take the clamps off"? After "Buy more clamps," what is the second best answer?
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Jun 11, 2021 21:52
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Sono posted:I'm gluing up two pieces of cherry to form bed legs using titlebond III. 1.75" before to 3.5" after thick, 6" wide, and ~5' long for the headboard legs. At what point do I cross from "that glue is 99% set" to "you are being completely ridiculous, take the clamps off"? Heavy, acme-thread C-clamps or bar clamps are much, much better for that than F-clamps (in clamping force and depth of throat), but if you have enough F clamps and good joints it'll be fine. Regular redtop TB seems to dry a little faster and leaves less of a glueline and is cheaper and it's what I would use if you aren't water staining it, but TB III is fine too. As wide as your posts are, I'd def. try to get C clamps as close to center as possible.
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Jun 11, 2021 22:57
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Took a break from endless material prep for my main project to make some coasters for a Christmas gift. Maple and purple heart. Pretty happy with how they came out. I have enough material for another set. Still have to sand and finish and maybe add cork bottoms. I was going to use spar varnish to make sure they’d be ok with getting wet but wasn’t sure if there was a better option. 
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Jun 11, 2021 23:22
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Friend has asked for help fixing this chair. Any suggestions for how I could repair this seat joint? Beyond like "scrape glue off and reglue" I mean. Those connections seem a bit broken and stripped   
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Jun 11, 2021 23:56
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You can glue dowel into a screw hole and then screw into the dowel. This is not necessarily stronger than the original joint, especially since you're driving the screw into endgrain where it was previously crossgrain, but, the compression of the dowel by its hole helps to mitigate that. Drill out the hole so you have fresh wood to glue to, of course. Glue in dowel with some of it proud, then pare flat with a chisel, then screw into it. e. Also those screws barely bite into the seat, it looks like they're mostly there to hold the seat in position and the glue was doing all the work. I might consider driving screws down through the seat into the stretchers, if it's Ok to have exposed screw heads countersunk into the seat. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 00:03 on Jun 12, 2021 |
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Jun 12, 2021 00:01
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ok here's another question: I harvested some green Caragana today (one of like 1000 Caragana shrubs in my wind break) and carved some spoons:  How long should I let that sit before doing final sanding/scraping and oiling?
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Jun 12, 2021 22:26
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CommonShore posted:ok here's another question: Not knowing anything about that wood or how it dries, I would weigh it regularly on a postal scale. When the weight stabilizes, it's dried.
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Jun 12, 2021 22:43
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So, I've been inspired by Dashner Design and Restoration to get the crummy finish and water stains off my Colonial-revival sewing stand. He seems to use a Husky-brand carbide scraper with a push knob. Do you recommend Husky for this task? If so, where do I find one? I was thinking of also getting this Lee Valley Tool detail scraper to get all the fiddly turned bits on the legs. Is that actually the best tool for the job? In the past, I've found cleaning all the curves on a turned leg or detail to be difficult with plain ol' sandpaper.
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Jun 13, 2021 03:03
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Made a "fine" wooden gate out of the nicest pressure treated 2x2 and a bunch of pocket hole screws. The latch isn't like I wanted it to be, but I had to work around the downspout. Probably wouldn't have known where to start six months ago. Uthor fucked around with this message at 04:19 on Jun 14, 2021 |
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Jun 14, 2021 04:16
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Finished my kumiko lamps yesterday.  I'm very happy with how they turned out. Lots of little imperfections that no one else will ever notice. My friends are like "you should make more to sell" so I looked at Etsy; someone in "Ohio" is selling "handmade" similar ones for $80.
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Jun 14, 2021 13:08
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Anybody work with plate glass / have advice on handling it? I'm in the planning stages of a builtin cabinet / shelving wall for the dining room and one section of cabinet doors might be nice to have glass paneling. If possible I'll try to design it so I can incorporate glass panels that I can buy at home depot. That said, if it's not incredibly difficult to cut some larger plate glass pieces down to size to fit within a wood cabinet door frame groove I'd like to have that as an option. However I have never worked with or cut glass in any capacity before so idk if it's a big deal or not.
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Jun 14, 2021 13:43
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That Works posted:Anybody work with plate glass / have advice on handling it? Several years ago I reglazed my house's century old windows using plate glass from HD. It's not difficult to cut it to size with a straightedge and glass cutter, especially if it's just rectangular. Just have to be patient and careful. Also, be careful transporting it home - don't hit any potholes!
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Jun 14, 2021 13:56
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I worked at glass fabrication company for 5 years (in IT but you still pick up stuff at a small business). Scoring and snapping glass by hand is pretty easy to get the hang of if you are just making rectangles out of thin glass. That said putting glass that isn’t tempered or laminated in your house is asking for big messy cuts. Depends on your area but I believe most buildings codes required tempered or laminated glass in residential buildings. I would recommend finding a commercial window installer or a shower door installer and ordering tempered glass cut to size. 3/16 and 1/4 clear tempered glass is pretty cheap. Edit: buy your self a pair of cut resistant gloves Calidus fucked around with this message at 14:23 on Jun 14, 2021 |
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Jun 14, 2021 13:58
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Every time I work with glass I wind up loving up the first piece very badly and swearing at myself a lot as I drive back to home depot for another piece. Second one always goes fine though!
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Jun 14, 2021 14:19
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That Works posted:Anybody work with plate glass / have advice on handling it?
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Jun 14, 2021 14:22
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Like others have said, it's pretty easy to cut yourself if it's all straight cuts, but it's even easier to call your friendly local glass company and give them your cut list. They don't usually charge much (if anything) for cutting it. Regular, single strength glass is fine for cabinet doors IMO. Tempered about doubles the prices. The place I go to will also install it into my cabinet doors for free, at least for my small orders they do. Just drop the doors off and pick them up the next day, it also saves on measurements/tolerances.
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Jun 14, 2021 17:08
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NomNomNom posted:Finished my kumiko lamps yesterday. Very nice, you may have mentioned this, but what did you use as the paper?
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Jun 14, 2021 17:09
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Uthor posted:Made a "fine" wooden gate out of the nicest pressure treated 2x2 and a bunch of pocket hole screws. Looks good. I made an (uglier) gate recently as well. I kept debating which way to put the cross support, then electroboom of all people made a youtube video about making a gate recently on his second channel and he made a good point about the diagonal support on a gate. The way you have it, the weight of the gate is putting the support in tension which means its trying to pull the screws out. If you were to put it the other way (bottom left to top right in the photo), potentially it would last longer since the weight would be in compression and not stressing the screw holds as much.
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Jun 14, 2021 17:57
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I have a front room I never use, so I figured I would build a bar. But it's also the front entryway, so I decided to make a bar that could turn back into a credenza when not in use.   Full build album: https://imgur.com/gallery/z0LPNcz
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Jun 14, 2021 19:38
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Very nice, you may have mentioned this, but what did you use as the paper? I ended up using some translucent "vellum" from Michael's.
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Jun 14, 2021 19:46
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Hashtag Banterzone posted:I have a front room I never use, so I figured I would build a bar. But it's also the front entryway, so I decided to make a bar that could turn back into a credenza when not in use. This is so dope. Do the cabinets slide on the base structure to transform?
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Jun 14, 2021 19:49
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NomNomNom posted:This is so dope. Do the cabinets slide on the base structure to transform? Thanks man. The back legs of the base are fixed and the front legs slide out to give you a footrest and make sure it doesn't tip over if someone puts weight on the bar overhang 
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Jun 14, 2021 19:53
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NomNomNom posted:Finished my kumiko lamps yesterday. yeah I really miss the days when Etsy was the place to buy hosed-up looking dolls some lady felted out of cat hair and not just a worse AliExpress first coat of finish in and the sycamore's popping more than I expected: 
A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 00:09 on Jun 15, 2021 |
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Jun 14, 2021 20:14
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Squibbles posted:Looks good. I made an (uglier) gate recently as well. I kept debating which way to put the cross support, then electroboom of all people made a youtube video about making a gate recently on his second channel and he made a good point about the diagonal support on a gate. The way you have it, the weight of the gate is putting the support in tension which means its trying to pull the screws out. If you were to put it the other way (bottom left to top right in the photo), potentially it would last longer since the weight would be in compression and not stressing the screw holds as much. That's a good point, but I can't be bothered to swap it around right now. It's also kinda sorta pushing the frame into square as is. If it becomes a problem, I'll put in a metal brace or redo it then. Thanks for the tip, though.
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Jun 14, 2021 21:44
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My first project is finished! Its hella janky, I would have done a dozen things differently if I did it again (like sourcing proper size maple boards instead of laminating 1x4s to make "2x4"s), and I have no idea if its going to hold up over time as I think there's more tension in the glue ups than there should be. But I designed it from nothing and made it with a contractor grade table saw while learning a ton in the process.   One thing I noticed today is that I can feel the seams between the boards in the side panels, where a week or two ago it was buttery smooth and even. Its been fully assembled and sanded down for the past week or two so I don't know if there's tension in the glue-up making the seams more prominent over time or there's a change in humidity doing it (its been in the garage the entire time). Any ideas as to why the seams would go from perfectly smooth to just being able to feel them?
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Jun 15, 2021 00:33
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