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Internet Explorer posted:I only had like 35k miles on it, but it was a lot of city driving and sitting in traffic on hills. Also my first manual. I don't do clutch drops or anything like that. Not sure exactly what happened, guess I'll know more when they pull it. Either there was something keeping the clutch from fully engaging, the rear main seal was leaking, or you need to learn how to use the clutch properly. If you're sitting, the car is in neutral unless you're about to start moving in the next couple of seconds (such as if you know the light is about to change). If you're in gear and stopped, the clutch pedal needs to be all the way down against the floor, not halfway. If you need to creep forward in traffic, let the clutch out enough to get the car moving, then put it back down to the floor. Don't downshift to slow down, use your brakes (they're a lot cheaper to replace, as you're about to find out), unless you're going down a long hill where you'd otherwise be heavy on the brakes (in which case probably use 4th, maybe 5th - whatever gear lets you stab the brakes occasionally to keep your speed in check, but not keep the engine over, say, 3500-4000).
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May 30, 2021 17:14
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Just wanted to day thanks for that post. It's certainly helpful to hear what common mistakes there are. I'm probably guilty of not always having the clutch completely down to the floor, but I always felt like the car needed more gas and less clutch than I would have thought getting going from 1st. Basically, it's always seemed harder to go under 10 mph than I thought it should. I'll have to play around with it a bit when I get it back. I always put it in neutral at a light, but the wife keeps it in gear. So I guess that may have contributed as well. I definitely do a lot of engine breaking going down hill, probably higher than the RPM range you mentioned. Guess I need to be more careful there. Shop should be pulling the clutch and transmission early next week. They were having trouble sourcing a new clutch. I'm curious to see if they are going to know more about what happened, or if it's going to just look like normal wear. I do think that maybe I hosed up one or two trips to Red Rocks and that was enough to damage it to the point of no return. There was never smoke or anything like that, but I could smell the clutch by the time I got to the top. For those who haven't been, picture concert traffic up and down a mountain. Definitely noticed that one time coming down (it's a lot of ups and downs), also could have mostly been an issue from going up, that the car was shuddering at low RPMs. Anyways, thanks again. It's not something I'm super upset about, but if I (or we) are doing something wrong, it's good to know so we can adjust.
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May 30, 2021 17:32
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net work error posted:I was changing out transmission and differential fluid and the front diff dipstick shows as slightly over full. Could this cause and big problems or is a slight overfill going to be ok?
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May 30, 2021 18:23
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Internet Explorer posted:Just wanted to day thanks for that post. It's certainly helpful to hear what common mistakes there are. Under 10 mph is when you start letting the clutch out enough to get moving, push it back to the floor... release it again just enough to bring speed back up, etc - don't ride the clutch, basically. Heavy traffic is the absolute worst part about driving manual, IMO. Keeping it in gear is okay as long as the pedal is to the floor. If she's holding it halfway up, it's going to be grabbing somewhat, and that really destroys clutches in a hurry. My GF does the same thing and it drives me nuts, but it's her car. Engine braking won't hurt the clutch at all so long as your foot is off the clutch, you just don't want to overrev the engine. I'm pretty conservative with that 3500-4000 RPM number, I just don't like keeping an engine above that for very long. I'm sure someone else will chime in with a safe RPM range for long downhill drives. The tl;dr is your foot should not be on the clutch pedal at all unless you're shifting or getting ready to move, and if your foot is on the pedal, it needs to be either completely to the floor, or you're slipping it just barely enough to get moving or to do a smooth shift (the smooth shift part goes out the window if you're tracking the car, but if you're tracking it, that'll wear the clutch out a lot faster too).
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May 30, 2021 19:12
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wait, there's an appreciable wear difference between sitting at a light in gear with the pedal to the floor, and shifting to neutral?
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May 30, 2021 20:50
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OMGVBFLOL posted:wait, there's an appreciable wear difference between sitting at a light in gear with the pedal to the floor, and shifting to neutral? It puts wear on your throwout bearing, shouldn't put any wear on your clutch if it's properly adjusted.
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May 30, 2021 21:30
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OMGVBFLOL posted:wait, there's an appreciable wear difference between sitting at a light in gear with the pedal to the floor, and shifting to neutral? Only on the throwout bearing. A shocking amount of people will sit there with the clutch just starting to bite, in 1st gear, the entire time they're sitting at a stop. My GF is extremely guilty of this.
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May 30, 2021 22:08
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I forgot to ask, would anyone be interested in a project thread of me fixing up the SVX? I could do one if people are interested, assuming I can finally remind myself to take pictures as I go. Current top priorities are replace the rear brakes and all 4 lines with the stainless steel ones I picked up, fix the stuck EGR, fix the clearcoat, and replace a CV axle. I'd probably only be updating every week or two depending on how much time I can get to work on it.
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May 30, 2021 22:19
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Project threads are always welcome in AI. So long as you don't wear pajama pants while trying to drift a rusted to poo poo 300ZX around turns on public roads, anyway. 
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May 30, 2021 23:38
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I remember that guy. What was his name again? Sperglord Firecrotch or something? I remember getting him mixed up with Sperglord Actual. I can confidently say that this car has no rust thanks to a combination of an old man owner, Colorado roads, and self-lubricating chassis. And it's too fat and AWD for me to try to drift. It feels slower than it is which means I've taken some turns entirely too fast and gone pucker factor 10, I'm not trying to drift a 3700 pound AWD automatic. I'll try to get a thread up soon, sadly my to-do list is on a hard drive in a laptop that died so I'll need to try to find it again. E: I also don't even own PJ pants, although they seem nice for working on concrete. I'm on dirt and gravel though so it's carhartts. What the gently caress Subaru??? 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 01:05 on May 31, 2021 |
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May 30, 2021 23:46
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Has anyone installed a radar detector and/or a dash cam in a subaru with eyesight? Anything special to keep in mind there?
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Jun 9, 2021 04:37
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Head Bee Guy posted:Has anyone installed a radar detector and/or a dash cam in a subaru with eyesight? Anything special to keep in mind there? I put my dash cam and toll passes in the top right corner. There is a diagram of where you can put stuff in the manual.
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Jun 9, 2021 06:49
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Having a problem with my '17 Impreza not wanting to start. If it sits for any length of time, even a few hours it's really hard to start. It's making noises like the battery is shot. but if I keep trying it will eventually catch and start. Once it's running it's fine, I can drive it around with no problems. Is this just the battery on it's way out, or should I be looking at other things? Even when it won't start, all the electronics come on, so I don't know.
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Jun 14, 2021 18:43
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Funzo posted:Having a problem with my '17 Impreza not wanting to start. If it sits for any length of time, even a few hours it's really hard to start. It's making noises like the battery is shot. but if I keep trying it will eventually catch and start. Once it's running it's fine, I can drive it around with no problems. Is this just the battery on it's way out, or should I be looking at other things? Even when it won't start, all the electronics come on, so I don't know. Weirdly, I couldn't start my '20 WRX this morning, sounded like low battery, but nothing was left on/ajar. Then I looked into it and noticed there's currently a lawsuit in the works regarding battery drain in a bunch of late model vehicles, including yours and mine i believe. Something about the various systems not going into sleep mode when the car is off and locked and killing batteries at a rapid rate.
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Jun 14, 2021 18:49
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I have a 2018 Subaru Crosstrek and the ac isn't blowing tok cold. The first summer we had it it blew really cold, and 2019, 2020 and now 2021 it's not as cold, but it hasn't gotten any worse from 19 to now, it's just not as good as when we got the car. Is this something I could fix myself or should I have a shop look at it?
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Jun 14, 2021 18:54
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large hands posted:Weirdly, I couldn't start my '20 WRX this morning, sounded like low battery, but nothing was left on/ajar. Then I looked into it and noticed there's currently a lawsuit in the works regarding battery drain in a bunch of late model vehicles, including yours and mine i believe. Something about the various systems not going into sleep mode when the car is off and locked and killing batteries at a rapid rate. I’m still on the original battery so I guess I can’t complain too much. I did just get a recall notice about ignition coils I think.
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Jun 14, 2021 18:54
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Subaru batteries are known to suck rear end. My 2015 WRX got 3 replacements under warranty before I said gently caress this and went to my local Interstate distributor.
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Jun 14, 2021 19:02
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I'm not an expert on these things but beware if you go to have your battery tested and they use one of those handheld testers, getting a good rating does not mean your battery is okay. I know in the "stupid questions" thread there are people that know more. Kia has put out a bunch of these batteries that die fairly early but still show okay with those testers. I believe a proper test takes at least an hour. Edit: Motronic posted:This depends on how it was tested. Kia Soul Enthusias fucked around with this message at 19:11 on Jun 14, 2021 |
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Jun 14, 2021 19:07
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Those battery testers at AutoZone or whatever are pretty much useless. I've had them tell me that multiple failed batteries were still good, in cars and motorcycles.
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Jun 14, 2021 20:00
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Guinness posted:Those battery testers at AutoZone or whatever are pretty much useless. I've had them tell me that multiple failed batteries were still good, in cars and motorcycles. Somewhat ironically, it's a super big problem with Kia EVs, and the dealers don't even know any better.
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Jun 14, 2021 20:27
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Any particular brand of battery I should look for or am I just getting whatever?
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Jun 14, 2021 23:25
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Funzo posted:Any particular brand of battery I should look for or am I just getting whatever? Kirkland if you have a Costco membership
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Jun 14, 2021 23:53
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um excuse me posted:Subaru batteries are known to suck rear end. My 2015 WRX got 3 replacements under warranty before I said gently caress this and went to my local Interstate distributor. I replaced the original battery in a 2000 impreza last year, maybe the old ones were better.
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Jun 14, 2021 23:58
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taqueso posted:I replaced the original battery in a 2000 impreza last year, maybe the old ones were better. I think my 99 had a Panasonic that lasted a good decade or so.
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Jun 15, 2021 00:07
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Echoing a dozen others, my 16 Outback needed a new battery last May.
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Jun 15, 2021 00:19
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The Slack Lagoon posted:I have a 2018 Subaru Crosstrek and the ac isn't blowing tok cold. The first summer we had it it blew really cold, and 2019, 2020 and now 2021 it's not as cold, but it hasn't gotten any worse from 19 to now, it's just not as good as when we got the car. Is this something I could fix myself or should I have a shop look at it? Also for this you need a shop to do it.
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Jun 15, 2021 00:25
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Charles posted:Also for this you need a shop to do it. Lies.  You need a shop if there's a leak, so they can vacuum out the freon to fix leaks. You can just add freon from autozone in cans like those, if you don't have a leak, or just aren't worried about it. CRUSTY MINGE fucked around with this message at 00:32 on Jun 15, 2021 |
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Jun 15, 2021 00:30
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Yeah, no. I used to have a thread here about how that's a really bad idea.
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Jun 15, 2021 00:31
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It might even use 1234yf
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Jun 15, 2021 00:32
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I've never had problems using top off cans. But if one can does not solve the problem, adding more will gently caress it up. Yes it should be vacuumed out and repressurized with fresh freon, but that's $100+ instead of $20 for a top off. Oh yeah. Not everything is R134a anymore.
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Jun 15, 2021 00:35
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CRUSTY MINGE posted:I've never had problems using top off cans. But if one can does not solve the problem, adding more will gently caress it up. Glad you personally have never had problems. But your sample size consists of you, and I'm the person who's had to clean up after these kinds of problems. Also, it's not freon. I guess now that robot spine has been evicted I can put my thread back.
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Jun 15, 2021 01:14
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I was curious so tried to figure out when Subaru started using r-1234yf, and a cursory web search shows it goes back at least 5 years. R134a's global warming potential is still over 1,000, although that beats R12's (the one that was actually Freon) over 10,000, so yeah, it's still not great for the environment to let leak. Somehow the latest r1234yf is less than 1. Also there are different kinds of oils but this is totally Motronic's expertise.
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Jun 15, 2021 01:28
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Motronic posted:Glad you personally have never had problems. But your sample size consists of you, and I'm the person who's had to clean up after these kinds of problems. Yeah Motrinic's AC thread showed me I have no loving clue what I'm doing when it comes to AC and got me on the right repair path to keep my old explorers AC living another couple years.
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Jun 15, 2021 01:50
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I should really get around to having my Impreza's AC recharged one of these years. I keep meaning to and then keep forgetting. It still blows cool but it can't give me goosebumps like the AC in a new car can whenever I drive one.
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Jun 15, 2021 01:54
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Thread link? I need schoolin'. E: nm, I see the new one. I've used it twice, one of my many previous cars and one of the exwifes', both times around a decade ago. It worked well in a pinch and both were traded off later. Though now that I think of it, the compressor on my civic hybrid did seize about two years later, but I just rolled down my windows and dealt with it. I realize AC is a necessity in some places, Memphis was kind of a lovely place to roll without AC. CRUSTY MINGE fucked around with this message at 02:05 on Jun 15, 2021 |
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Jun 15, 2021 02:02
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CRUSTY MINGE posted:Thread link? I need schoolin'. E: nm, I see the new one. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3970674 I just put it back up. The quick recharge kits, if they don't have leak stop, aren't the wrong thing to put in.....but without a high side gauge you just don't know whether you SHOULD be doing this or not. And if you shouldn't be you're going to cause a lot more damage. There's really not much of an excuse when you can buy a proper set of manifold gauges and a couple cans of refrigerant for what it costs to have a shop do it. And now you have a set of manifold gauges for every other time you need to figure out what's up and/or recharge. No, they're not gonna be pro grade gauges, but event he harbor freight ones work well enough and will last if you store them properlay and keep them clean (pro stuff has much better hoses that won't get eaten as quickly, gauge faces that won't turn white when left in the sun, etc).
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Jun 15, 2021 02:07
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My personal solution now, when an expensive AC issue rears its' head, is to buy a shorter accessory belt. But I live in a dry climate and don't commute in nice clothes to an office. Fortunately the Outback has decent AC for now. I'll still top it off if needed, but I'm not buying a compressor, just deleting it. Bookmarked your thread for more thorough reading.
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Jun 15, 2021 02:16
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Motronic FYI I love your AC threads and have referenced them many times over the years to diagnose and fix multiple cars. I have a 96 Miata that is nearing completion to the point where I'm confident enough I'm not wasting my time sealing up the lines. I'll be watching your thread. um excuse me fucked around with this message at 02:19 on Jun 15, 2021 |
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Jun 15, 2021 02:17
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CRUSTY MINGE posted:My personal solution now, when an expensive AC issue rears its' head, is to buy a shorter accessory belt. But I live in a dry climate and don't commute in nice clothes to an office. Fortunately the Outback has decent AC for now. Yeah, that's definitely a thing you can do. And depending on the year of your outback it may just involve a pair of scissors because the EJ25 AC belt is just for the AC. For much of the rest of us, we live in places where you need AC. For me it's not even just because it's hot in summer....I can live with that. It's literally dangerous to drive in winter without it. Defrost is super important here. um excuse me posted:Motronic FYI I love your AC threads and have referenced them many times over the years to diagnose and fix multiple cars. Thanks, I'm glad I can help people figure out the not-really-magic magic.
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Jun 15, 2021 02:19
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Motronic posted:Yeah, that's definitely a thing you can do. And depending on the year of your outback it may just involve a pair of scissors because the EJ25 AC belt is just for the AC. '13 with an FB25 in Colorado. It was 90°F here today, but low humidity and elevation make it extremely tolerable outside of direct sunlight.
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Jun 15, 2021 02:30
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