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Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

with a rebel yell she QQd posted:

The base mechanics did not see any major changes from 1994 (3rd edition) till 2020's

This isn't true. The 4e/Living Rulebook era in the 2000s seriously lowered the lethality, basically invented the current catchup system for lower-rated teams (which isn't good but is better than nothing), reworked star players, reworked big guys, reworked fouling, etc. The different versions of the Living Rulebook spanned most of the 2000s.

After that, though, yeah. 2015's changes were barely noticeable if you played LRB BB.

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TheDiceMustRoll
Jul 23, 2018
Fought a 1v1v1 of Underworlds tonight with Kainan's Reapers.

I was storm of Celestus and the other guy was Drepchur's Wraithcreepers. That was a high-scoring game, we all got insane rolls and I think I scored the fewest points with 11, Kainan's Reapers won with 19. First round we killed 3/5 of his guys, and he was getting discouraged, so he got a bit ballsier with Kainan's Reapers killed two of my stormies in a single swipe. Due to an upgrade, this meant that he got a shitload of points and inspired. Him and his wizard proceeded to slaughter the rest of the army for the rest of round 2 and 3. It's a powerful guy. I would say it's mandatory to focus fire Kainan or you're in for a bad time.

DrDraxium
Dec 2, 2002




Plz state the nature of the medical emergency

Grizzled Patriarch posted:

Ended up splitting the Blood Bowl starter set with a friend so I'm gonna be painting up some Orcs in the near future. Tempted to pick up a second rulebook on ebay so we don't have to take turns with it, but how often do rules rotate for this game? The starter set came out reasonably recently and the fact that it's only the second edition makes it sound like it will last for quite a while, but I just wanted to check first.

The rulebook is a nightmare to navigate (seriously GW, you need to have a quick reference section in your god damned rules).

Some people have made some after market cheat sheets which include everything you need to play (surface level only, for more detailed explanations you'll still need the book, but once you've read through it all, these suffice perfectly for myself and my friend I play with).

PM me and I'll send ya a copy if you wish (and anyone else for that matter).

Xenomrph
Dec 9, 2005

AvP Nerd/Fanboy/Shill



Okay so I don’t know if there’s a dedicated Kill Team thread so if there is feel free to tell me to eat poo poo and link me to the appropriate thread.

I’m looking to build a Sisters of Battle kill team, and I have 1 (one) box of 10 Battle Sisters to work with. How should I build this box so I have maximum fun?

The Deleter
May 22, 2010
Folks, I'm a stupid bastard. Assuming I wanted to collect Middle Earth stuff, and wasn't interested in anything in the Pelennor Fields box, how would I get started? I'm flip-flopping between Gondor, Isengard and Moria Goblins.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Xenomrph posted:

Okay so I don’t know if there’s a dedicated Kill Team thread so if there is feel free to tell me to eat poo poo and link me to the appropriate thread.

I can't answer your Q but this is the thread for Kill Team stuff, yeah

lilljonas
May 6, 2007

We got crabs? We got crabs!

The Deleter posted:

Folks, I'm a stupid bastard. Assuming I wanted to collect Middle Earth stuff, and wasn't interested in anything in the Pelennor Fields box, how would I get started? I'm flip-flopping between Gondor, Isengard and Moria Goblins.

Honestly I'd check the second hand market where you love. I'm hunting for old school WHFB Orcs & Goblins, and I'm seeing tons of nice deals for LotR stuff that would be good starting points for armies.

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer

Xenomrph posted:

Okay so I don’t know if there’s a dedicated Kill Team thread so if there is feel free to tell me to eat poo poo and link me to the appropriate thread.

I’m looking to build a Sisters of Battle kill team, and I have 1 (one) box of 10 Battle Sisters to work with. How should I build this box so I have maximum fun?
I don't play them, but I'd probably magnetize the Sister Superior so it can switch between plasma pistol & power sword, and combi plasma.
I'd put a heavy flamer and a heavy bolter on the gunners.
Then I'd get a few Repentia and Arco-flagellants on ebay.

Xlorp
Jan 23, 2008


The Deleter posted:

Folks, I'm a stupid bastard. Assuming I wanted to collect Middle Earth stuff, and wasn't interested in anything in the Pelennor Fields box, how would I get started? I'm flip-flopping between Gondor, Isengard and Moria Goblins.

Moria Goblins get you hordes of bitty guys, an expectation that you'll be fighting Dwarves, and a need for force multipliers. Trolls, drum, Balrog...
Isengard has scout and armored guys in plastic. Siege troops, berserkers, S4 shooting, pikes, Warg Riders, many named leaders and a wizard. Dunlendings in Huscarl and horde mode available as allies, likewise Orcs.
Gondor would be the major human power besides Rohan, and has more general variety than the cavalry specialists. Basic troops, plus Rangers, Fountain Court, Fiefdom troops, Dol Amroth. The whole Fellowship, canonical Rohan allies, decent proxies for 3rd age scenarios and Arnor.

moths
Aug 25, 2004

I would also still appreciate some danger.



Did we ever get to find out who the Underworlds bug people are?

TheDiceMustRoll
Jul 23, 2018

moths posted:

Did we ever get to find out who the Underworlds bug people are?

Nope, but we have gotten through the last release of the season. So....stay tuned?

mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




Electric Hobo posted:

I don't play them, but I'd probably magnetize the Sister Superior so it can switch between plasma pistol & power sword, and combi plasma.
I'd put a heavy flamer and a heavy bolter on the gunners.
Then I'd get a few Repentia and Arco-flagellants on ebay.

Thanks, that'll help me too.

And always magnetize everything. Rare earths are too cheap not to put in the extra effort.

Pyrolocutus
Feb 5, 2005
Shape of Flame



TheDiceMustRoll posted:

Nope, but we have gotten through the last release of the season. So....stay tuned?

Given that they only stayed in Shadespire for two seasons, and it's been two seasons of Beastgrave, I half wonder if season 5 isn't going to go somewhere new.

I imagine it's going to be a plot thread they can eventually pull on, but it might not be for a while.

long-ass nips Diane
Dec 13, 2010

Breathe.

The Deleter posted:

Folks, I'm a stupid bastard. Assuming I wanted to collect Middle Earth stuff, and wasn't interested in anything in the Pelennor Fields box, how would I get started? I'm flip-flopping between Gondor, Isengard and Moria Goblins.

Order what you can off the GW site (mostly basic troops) and then scour ebay/3d print the rest

Major Isoor
Mar 23, 2011

I can't help with regards to your SoB question, but aren't you the guy who made that '90s style Aliens credit/epilogue vid like, fifty years ago? Your name/av really rings a lot of bells. In any case, I wish you luck at the table!

Xenomrph
Dec 9, 2005

AvP Nerd/Fanboy/Shill



That was me!

https://youtu.be/20wsNqmTPxI

AnEdgelord
Dec 12, 2016

moths posted:

Did we ever get to find out who the Underworlds bug people are?

probably an upcoming AoS army, the Destruction Grand Alliance are the big bads this edition of AoS and the bug people are likely a new addition to their stable of armies

I'm more curious about the next setting because the Underworlds setting seems to foreshadow the next focus of the AoS plot with Shadespire leading in to Death taking center stage and Beastgrave doing the same for Destruction. I'm guessing it will be a Chaos setting but who knows.

Captain Rufus
Sep 16, 2005

CAPTAIN WORD SALAD

OFF MY MEDS AGAIN PLEASE DON'T USE BIG WORDS

UNNECESSARY LINE BREAK

Wolfrider warband fully painted meaning I hit my goal a week early.


I did some extra base work to the Siggies but right now outside of a few more touch ups to all the warbands I think I am complete with them. Stuff like a few more painted leaves on the front Spookies and tweaks to things like the Siggie robes. Or I could just leave them alone and not Lucas it all up cuz a couple splotches here and there.


They are all in their nice numbered spots keeping them roughly well protected.


Citadel Shade 2 on left, right without. Goddamn the stuff is magic.

with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


Cease to Hope posted:

This isn't true. The 4e/Living Rulebook era in the 2000s seriously lowered the lethality, basically invented the current catchup system for lower-rated teams (which isn't good but is better than nothing), reworked star players, reworked big guys, reworked fouling, etc. The different versions of the Living Rulebook spanned most of the 2000s.

After that, though, yeah. 2015's changes were barely noticeable if you played LRB BB.

I think our definition of "base mechanics" is a bit different.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

with a rebel yell she QQd posted:

I think our definition of "base mechanics" is a bit different.

compared to the end of the LRB era, BB 3e was a much deadlier, much more random, much more unfair game where you were even more heavily encouraged to make a match miserable for your opponent, and mismatches were even more insurmountable. the changes in BB2020 are cosmetic compared to that i think.

by.a.teammate
Jun 27, 2007
theres nothing wrong with the word panties
So a mate wants to try necromunda and I found my old 90s orlocks but I've not got the rules or anything yet and I was wondering can the weapon choices still work? I noticed the new orlock models had much scrappier looking weapons.

(Not pictured is a few lads with autoguns and a heavy with I think a heavy stubber)

Squibsy
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.
College Slice
Yeah, Orlocks in particular have an equipment list that is most suited to using the old minis, you should be fine.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

by.a.teammate posted:

So a mate wants to try necromunda and I found my old 90s orlocks but I've not got the rules or anything yet and I was wondering can the weapon choices still work? I noticed the new orlock models had much scrappier looking weapons.

(Not pictured is a few lads with autoguns and a heavy with I think a heavy stubber)



We usually play a very loose WYSIWYG - if the model has a long gun, it is equipped with a lasgun/rifle/etc. If the model has a pistol, it's got a laspistol/autogun/etc. Heavy weapons are obviously heavy weapons. It makes life easier when you're playing with older models. TBH, you're standing 4+ feet away from a 28mm model, so it's often tough to make out specifics anyway. When in doubt as to loadout, just ask.

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug

That's a clever priming jig, is it a 3d print? If so where'd you get the file?

Desfore
Jun 8, 2011

Confirmed at least one furry on the Smash team

Springfield Fatts posted:

That's a clever priming jig, is it a 3d print? If so where'd you get the file?

https://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/Citadel-Colour-Spray-Stick-2019

Xenomrph
Dec 9, 2005

AvP Nerd/Fanboy/Shill



I love my priming stick, it’s so much more efficient than standing them up on cardboard or doing them one at a time with a painting handle.

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

Strike quick and hurry at him,
not caring to hit or miss.
So that you dishonor him before the judges



Those priming sticks are great, but a solution I've found is taking a wooden shim or paint can mixer and stick some sticky tac to it. That's what I use when I prime multiple things simultaneously, and it's a few bucks worth of materials rather than the $20+ GW charges.

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug
Yeah that's what I do now but at smaller scale the paint tends to eat away at the tac making it a pain to remove the primed/painted models from it.

by.a.teammate
Jun 27, 2007
theres nothing wrong with the word panties
Thanks all, I'll crack on painting these guys then, I do forget how much easier the old models are to paint

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

Verisimilidude posted:

Those priming sticks are great, but a solution I've found is taking a wooden shim or paint can mixer and stick some sticky tac to it. That's what I use when I prime multiple things simultaneously, and it's a few bucks worth of materials rather than the $20+ GW charges.

It's all fun and games until your model detaches from the tac and ends up covered in carpet hair and/or shatters and/or gets dented irreparably.

Mind you it's less of an issue now that everything's plastic or resin.

working mom
Jul 8, 2015

by.a.teammate posted:

Thanks all, I'll crack on painting these guys then, I do forget how much easier the old models are to paint



Glorious

Nunes
Apr 24, 2016

by.a.teammate posted:

Thanks all, I'll crack on painting these guys then, I do forget how much easier the old models are to paint



I love the flat top hair. I wish I was good at sculpting so I could add this to newer models

TheDiceMustRoll
Jul 23, 2018

Z the IVth posted:

It's all fun and games until your model detaches from the tac and ends up covered in carpet hair and/or shatters and/or gets dented irreparably.

Mind you it's less of an issue now that everything's plastic or resin.

I've never had a metal model, but I'm buying my first ratling guns pretty soon. Do...do metal models pop apart?

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Verisimilidude posted:

Those priming sticks are great, but a solution I've found is taking a wooden shim or paint can mixer and stick some sticky tac to it. That's what I use when I prime multiple things simultaneously, and it's a few bucks worth of materials rather than the $20+ GW charges.

glue magnets under your bases (which you should be doing for transport later) and use a metal stick.

EZ

Major Isoor
Mar 23, 2011

TheDiceMustRoll posted:

I've never had a metal model, but I'm buying my first ratling guns pretty soon. Do...do metal models pop apart?

You mean like, having separate/repositionable limbs etc, like plastic models? If so, no. Sometimes the heads will be separate so that you can mix-and-match according to personal taste, however otherwise they're typically one piece.

Atlas Hugged
Mar 12, 2007


Put your arms around me,
fiddly digits, itchy britches
I love you all

Major Isoor posted:

You mean like, having separate/repositionable limbs etc, like plastic models? If so, no. Sometimes the heads will be separate so that you can mix-and-match according to personal taste, however otherwise they're typically one piece.

It will depend on the metal model. The smaller ones are usually 1-2 pieces, but even normal man-sized figures can come in 3-4 pieces depending on the sculpt and pose. Larger ones get to be fairly complex models. Something like a horse is usually at least two halves. The big issue with metal is that you can't fuse it together like you can with plastic models, so unless you've pinned it incredibly well, a drop will cause arms and wings to fly off while the rest of it bends at weird angles that may never get straight again (if they even were to start with).

Improbable Lobster
Jan 6, 2012

"From each according to his ability" said Ares. It sounded like a quotation.
Buglord
I have a metal Inquistor Karamazov

Those ankles and feet are separate parts

Major Isoor
Mar 23, 2011

Atlas Hugged posted:

It will depend on the metal model. The smaller ones are usually 1-2 pieces, but even normal man-sized figures can come in 3-4 pieces depending on the sculpt and pose. Larger ones get to be fairly complex models. Something like a horse is usually at least two halves.

Oh really? Interesting! Is that mostly the case for more recent metal models, out of curiosity? I've mostly only got old ones, but even the newer metal models I've got have been one to two pieces.
(Nothing fancy though like a huge beast, or a rider on a horse, though. I guess that would be as you mentioned; two for the horse, then probably 1-2 for the rider)

Atlas Hugged
Mar 12, 2007


Put your arms around me,
fiddly digits, itchy britches
I love you all

Major Isoor posted:

Oh really? Interesting! Is that mostly the case for more recent metal models, out of curiosity? I've mostly only got old ones, but even the newer metal models I've got have been one to two pieces.
(Nothing fancy though like a huge beast, or a rider on a horse, though. I guess that would be as you mentioned; two for the horse, then probably 1-2 for the rider)

It's going to vary considerably by manufacturer and range and age. I don't know if there's any hard and fast rule. I've got some ancient stuff from Ral Partha, troglodytes, where the legs, torso, and head are always a single piece. Sometimes there's one of the arms also part of that piece, but at least one arm is always separate. Sometimes the tail is separate as well. Metal Space Marines were usually a torso with the head and legs attached. The arms were usually plastic, but the pauldrons might be metal or plastic depending on chapter. The backpack was usually plastic. And the weapon was plastic if it were a bolter, but metal if it were a heavy weapon or special weapon.

Several of GWs old metal models have been converted to resin (the dreaded Finecast, though they don't call it that anymore) and I think every piece on the sprue represents a piece of the metal model.

Usually if a component was at a dramatically different angle than the rest of the model, it would need to be a separate piece. In other words, the more dynamic the pose, the more likely the model was to come in multiple components even if it was man-sized.

Improbable Lobster posted:

I have a metal Inquistor Karamazov

Those ankles and feet are separate parts

I think the metal dreadnaughts were like that too. I remember them being incredibly not fun to build.

The most complex metal models I have have to be the old Lizardmen stegadons and the slann on palanquin supported by four saurus warriors. The old Prince Imrik is pretty complex too. None of them was fun to build. Thank god for plastic.

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fallingdownjoe
Mar 16, 2007

Please love me

Atlas Hugged posted:


Several of GWs old metal models have been converted to resin (the dreaded Finecast, though they don't call it that anymore) and I think every piece on the sprue represents a piece of the metal model.


This may be a really dumb question, but are they still using Finecast resin? Did they get any better at quality control on it? I ask because I was looking at getting one of these Doomflayers the other day, but if they're still likely to be as bad as some of the other finecast pieces I've had in the past I may hold off.

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