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Mr. Wiggles posted:They may have connected while in the parking lot next to you. I’ve never seen him in that parking lot at the same time as me, and it’s unlikely that he’s ever randomly been close enough to my car for it to pick up his phone by accident. Especially since the parking lot we use is way in the back rear end corner of the woods behind our workplace on top of a drat hill… it ain’t exactly a place you get to accidentally.
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Jun 16, 2021 04:35
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PainterofCrap posted:It. Was. This. I wish I had 5 bucks for every time that's happened to someone on a group or forum I'm on. Common mistake. They're usually interchangeable to some degree because it's almost always the same raw casting on both sides, they have two bosses on the back of the piston housing. One gets machined for a banjo bolt, the other for a bleed screw. On the other side they're switched. So yeah if you're not paying attention they go on really easy on the wrong side and then you've got tunnel vision and never notice the bleeders on the bottom until fresh eyes look at it.
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Jun 16, 2021 04:44
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kastein posted:I wish I had 5 bucks for every time that's happened to someone on a group or forum I'm on. Common mistake. They're usually interchangeable to some degree because it's almost always the same raw casting on both sides, they have two bosses on the back of the piston housing. One gets machined for a banjo bolt, the other for a bleed screw. On the other side they're switched. So yeah if you're not paying attention they go on really easy on the wrong side and then you've got tunnel vision and never notice the bleeders on the bottom until fresh eyes look at it. High five from the other thread.
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Jun 16, 2021 04:58
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Wait which other thread? I gotta catch up
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Jun 16, 2021 05:12
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kastein posted:Wait which other thread? I gotta catch up https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3970678
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Jun 16, 2021 05:15
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kastein posted:Wait which other thread? I gotta catch up Oh sorry I didn't realize you havent been invited to the AI Advanced Question Thread. With quality answers like this if say you're almost ready.
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Jun 16, 2021 05:20
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StormDrain posted:Oh sorry I didn't realize you havent been invited to the AI Advanced Question Thread. With quality answers like this if say you're almost ready. drat it, you beat me by 7 minutes in the other thread  I didn't even see that one. I need to venture out of my bookmarks and into the main subforum more often.
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Jun 16, 2021 06:11
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Sorry; I shoulda linked it :/
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Jun 16, 2021 13:54
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I have a 2015 Corolla. How hard would it be to put roof racks onto it and does anyone have any recommendations? Doesnt need anything crazy, just to be able to hold ~80lbs. Quick google search shows poo poo for like $60 up to like $500 so not zure what to look for
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Jun 16, 2021 16:28
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The cheaper ones will use straps that you run through the car, above the door, the nicer ones will mount more permanently.
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Jun 16, 2021 16:52
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Jack B Nimble posted:The cheaper ones will use straps that you run through the car, above the door, the nicer ones will mount more permanently. I can't seem to find any indication that the 2015 Corolla has any kind of mounting hardware on the roof, so you'd have to get the kind that goes behind the door (unless they did something like Mazda and hide them under the roof rails and nobody knows about it, but I don't think so). Yakima and Thule are both good brands, but pricey. Maybe somebody has experience with another less expensive brand? 80lbs is a fair amount so I wouldn't do anything too sketchy.
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Jun 16, 2021 17:47
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Yeah, FWIW Thule is what I'd settled on for a kayak and the cost kept me from ever committing to it, so I'm afraid that's the end of my knowledge.
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Jun 16, 2021 18:48
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I have a Yakima rack for my 2009 Corolla. It clamps on to the roof and seems pretty solid. IIRC, it is supposed to be good for up to 160 pounds. It wasn't cheap but buy once, cry once and all that.
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Jun 16, 2021 23:15
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If I'm really dumb and have a habit of leaving the dome light on for days at a time, will replacing it with an LED prevent it from killing my battery? Getting back to the airport at 10pm after 5 days and finding a dead battery is something I have no interest in doing again.
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Jun 16, 2021 23:31
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two_beer_bishes posted:If I'm really dumb and have a habit of leaving the dome light on for days at a time, will replacing it with an LED prevent it from killing my battery? Getting back to the airport at 10pm after 5 days and finding a dead battery is something I have no interest in doing again. An LED draws much less current than an incandescent bulb, but still plenty to drain your battery in five days. It will pull about 1/4 amp, or 250 mA. The upper limit for tolerable parasitic drains is usually about 50 mA.
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Jun 16, 2021 23:36
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two_beer_bishes posted:If I'm really dumb and have a habit of leaving the dome light on for days at a time, will replacing it with an LED prevent it from killing my battery? Getting back to the airport at 10pm after 5 days and finding a dead battery is something I have no interest in doing again. Buy a jump box and throw it in your trunk.
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Jun 17, 2021 00:35
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I've changed to LEDs for that reason, but it was more leaving on overnight, not sure about a few days. I did find that depending on the car, the LEDs may "glow" lightly even while off. This probably depends on the bulb too.
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Jun 17, 2021 00:41
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two_beer_bishes posted:If I'm really dumb and have a habit of leaving the dome light on for days at a time, will replacing it with an LED prevent it from killing my battery? Getting back to the airport at 10pm after 5 days and finding a dead battery is something I have no interest in doing again. If it's a newer car, are you sure the dome light stayed on? While there are still a handful of mostly-Japanese models with direct-wired switches straight out of 1974, a huge swath of vehicles in the past couple decades will eventually cut power to the lights. They will then helpfully turn the light back on when you unlock the car/approach with a proximity fob, making it seem like it's been on the entire time. Chilling unused at the airport for a week is a great opportunity for a marginal battery to decide it's done. Otherwise, as mentioned, LEDs may buy you some time but are unlikely to buy you several days.
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Jun 17, 2021 00:59
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I would like to attach points for tying off a dog at various locations on my van. The door hinges and hitch have served in the past but are not ideal. Exhibit A: Am I correct in judging that these holes in the bumper can handle any amount of force a dog is going to be able to exert upon it? I'd love for this to be a "trip to Ace" level project..  
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Jun 17, 2021 03:00
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Javid posted:Am I correct in judging that these holes in the bumper can handle any amount of force a dog is going to be able to exert upon it? I'd love for this to be a "trip to Ace" level project.. Absolutely. You probably want an eye bolt: https://www.acehardware.com/search?query=eye+bolt
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Jun 17, 2021 03:17
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Great dog, great van, great view.
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Jun 17, 2021 03:20
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Deteriorata posted:An LED draws much less current than an incandescent bulb, but still plenty to drain your battery in five days. It will pull about 1/4 amp, or 250 mA. The upper limit for tolerable parasitic drains is usually about 50 mA. skipdogg posted:Buy a jump box and throw it in your trunk. Molten Llama posted:If it's a newer car, are you sure the dome light stayed on? While there are still a handful of mostly-Japanese models with direct-wired switches straight out of 1974, a huge swath of vehicles in the past couple decades will eventually cut power to the lights. They will then helpfully turn the light back on when you unlock the car/approach with a proximity fob, making it seem like it's been on the entire time. It's my '14 BRZ, I know it was the dome light because when I got back to my car I looked up at the switch and it was firmly in the "on" position, which I remember turning on after I dropped something and had to find it with the light. Then a few nights later when I did the same thing (although thankfully at home), the light was still on after a few hours. A jump pack is probably a good idea though, thanks for the suggestion.
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Jun 17, 2021 03:27
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I'd do both a jumper and the LEDs. The less your battery is drained, the better your chances a jump will work easily.
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Jun 17, 2021 03:33
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Charles posted:I'd do both a jumper and the LEDs. The less your battery is drained, the better your chances a jump will work easily. I would simply not leave my dope scope on.
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Jun 17, 2021 03:41
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Motronic posted:Absolutely. You probably want an eye bolt: https://www.acehardware.com/search?query=eye+bolt the biggest stainless eye bolt that'll fit and overkill amounts of lock nut/loctite/etc was the overall plan yeah. followup q: I also want to put one in the middle of the floor in the interior for the same purpose. Can I just bolt poo poo through the floor? I'm thinking something flush like this since I have some extra thickness on top of the sheet metal floor with my insulation and plywood under the rug 
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Jun 17, 2021 04:11
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You can but go looking for things like wiring, fuel lines, brake lines, driveshaft etc under the area before just getting out the drill. I've seen people put a drill through a wiring harness and wrap half of it around the bit.
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Jun 17, 2021 04:30
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Charles posted:I can't seem to find any indication that the 2015 Corolla has any kind of mounting hardware on the roof, so you'd have to get the kind that goes behind the door (unless they did something like Mazda and hide them under the roof rails and nobody knows about it, but I don't think so). Yakima and Thule are both good brands, but pricey. Maybe somebody has experience with another less expensive brand? 80lbs is a fair amount so I wouldn't do anything too sketchy. AmbassadorofSodomy posted:I have a Yakima rack for my 2009 Corolla. It clamps on to the roof and seems pretty solid. IIRC, it is supposed to be good for up to 160 pounds. dammit, you guys were supposed to know about some sort of magic racks that only cost $50 and can hold 500 pounds ): haha Oh well, looks like I will be having to break a little more bread since need to be able to transport 2 kayaks and the cheap strap ones look like they are only up to 80 so wouldn't really trust them too much. Thanks guys!
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Jun 17, 2021 04:49
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Nooner posted:dammit, you guys were supposed to know about some sort of magic racks that only cost $50 and can hold 500 pounds ): haha The magic ones like those are the one you run into used and in good condition on some local craigslist/facebook marketplace. If you really need it now you may not be able to wait, but look around for a while if you can.
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Jun 17, 2021 05:21
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I got a used universal roof rack for my shitbox fit and it works, but is a pain in there rear end to set up and tighten down properly. It seems to be fine but after a few days of driving I saw that it was slowly shifting around along the roof.
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Jun 17, 2021 07:49
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I can’t believe Uncle Rico is a goon
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Jun 17, 2021 13:10
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Uh, speaking of the Fit. I just had 30 minutes between meetings to take it for an AC test/fill. It started fine but the battery light stayed on. Measures at around 12-12.2v. I checked and the terminals were super loose, like the bolt was tightened down as much as possible but I could still spin the terminals around by hand. Wtf. That's all I had time to check. There should be a positive contact on the alternator that I could measure as well, right? Of course it was perfectly reliable for all the stupid poo poo I've done but when I need it for a trip with my parents, it's not drivable 
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Jun 17, 2021 14:35
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mobby_6kl posted:That's all I had time to check. There should be a positive contact on the alternator that I could measure as well, right? Yes. You'll definitely want to check the voltage there with the engine running if at all possible. If it's at ~14V, then you know the problem is cabling/connections on the battery cables. If it's just showing battery voltage and not charging, then you know the alternator (or possibly something on the alternator control circuit) has failed.
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Jun 17, 2021 14:44
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mobby_6kl posted:Uh, speaking of the Fit. I just had 30 minutes between meetings to take it for an AC test/fill. It started fine but the battery light stayed on. Measures at around 12-12.2v. I checked and the terminals were super loose, like the bolt was tightened down as much as possible but I could still spin the terminals around by hand. Wtf. If the terminals are tapered fit, loosen, make sure the battery cable end is fully seated down on the battery as far as it can go and try tightening again. Colostomy Bag fucked around with this message at 14:57 on Jun 17, 2021 |
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Jun 17, 2021 14:54
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C-Bangin' it 
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Colostomy Bag posted:If the terminals are tapered fit, loosen, make sure the battery cable end is fully seated down on the battery as far as it can go and try tightening again. IOwnCalculus posted:Yes. You'll definitely want to check the voltage there with the engine running if at all possible. If it's at ~14V, then you know the problem is cabling/connections on the battery cables. If it's just showing battery voltage and not charging, then you know the alternator (or possibly something on the alternator control circuit) has failed. I ordered a new one for pickup tomorrow since I need a 4 seat car so I either fix it before lunch order rent something. It's already past business hours so that was the last chance to get anything. Is there anything else that could go wrong other than the alternator? Probably not much else I could do now anyway though but I'll try some more debugging and maybe take the old one off tonight. mobby_6kl fucked around with this message at 17:26 on Jun 17, 2021 |
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Jun 17, 2021 17:07
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If it isn't too bad of an R&R job with a few tools, throw them in a bag to take with you in case it croaks. Alternators from the chain stores aren't exactly top shelf in the quality department.
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Jun 17, 2021 18:27
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Colostomy Bag posted:If it isn't too bad of an R&R job with a few tools, throw them in a bag to take with you in case it croaks. Alternators from the chain stores aren't exactly top shelf in the quality department. Theoretically it's not too bad of a job with just a few bolts to undo but it's very cramped and rusty in there so we'll see. Second time should be easier. Right??? After some more suffering I managed to probe the +12v on the connector, so I think it's pretty safe to assume it's just dead. A bit disappointing at 170k km but I guess at least it had the decency to fail when parked in front of my house.
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Jun 17, 2021 20:34
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There's usually some sort of alternator control mechanism to excite the coils. Older cars it would literally depend on the warning light for the alt, on newer vehicles it usually goes to the computer so that the ECM can vary voltage based on actual electric needs to maximize fuel mileage. It's possible that the control circuit is what's failed - but it's far more common than the alternator. Troubleshooting that circuitry is going to involve digging through service manuals.
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Jun 17, 2021 21:19
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Is it a bad sign when you're selling a car and someone wants to buy it without test driving it, using Paypal or a cashier's check?
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Jun 17, 2021 23:59
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NotNut posted:Is it a bad sign when you're selling a car and someone wants to buy it without test driving it, using Paypal or a cashier's check? Yes, just ignore them, it's a scam
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Jun 18, 2021 00:02
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Thank you, intuition
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Jun 18, 2021 00:05
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