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22 Eargesplitten posted:Will do, thanks. Didn't make it out before work, what kind of lube are you talking about? I'm going to assume I shouldn't be smearing my black chrome-moly bearing grease all over my paint. I've also got some kind of crap smeared along the rear right quarter of the car, no idea where it came from but thankfully it doesn't seem to be remnants of a hit and run or anything like I was worried about at first, the paint is still fine under there. Just something more slippery than water that it can glide on, which is usually just something like detailing spray (they sell dedicated clay lube too). Technically something like your car wash soap would work as a lube too, but usually you want something a little more slippery. Kinda depends on what's in your bag of products. If you use a rinseless solution it can all be just the same stuff at different dilutions. I use McKee's N-914, basically the same stuff as ONR, and it's like 1:256 for a wash but then you can mix it up more concentrated at like 1:64 or 1:8 for things like quick detailing, clay lube, and paint prep. Just gives you a slimier, more slippery product. Ror fucked around with this message at 21:01 on Jun 13, 2021 |
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Jun 13, 2021 20:58
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Mentioned it on the last page, but any reccommenadations for synthetic clay? Linked that one video that seems pretty appealing, but can't find it sold in the US.
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Jun 14, 2021 03:09
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Unless I'm doing a small area, I just use a fresh bucket of soapy water for clay lube. Doing a whole car with detailing spray or whatever just seems wasteful.
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Jun 14, 2021 17:13
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opengl128 posted:Unless I'm doing a small area, I just use a fresh bucket of soapy water for clay lube. Doing a whole car with detailing spray or whatever just seems wasteful. this is the best way, no question as for synthetic clay, I'm very partial to Griots products and I'm on my second clay from them.
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Jun 14, 2021 17:31
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Similarly I’m partial to The Rag Company. These are sold out, but I’d recommend when they get restocked. https://theragcompany.com/collections/clay-bars-and-towels/products/ultra-clay-towel?variant=37726057070775
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Jun 14, 2021 18:35
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savesthedayrocks posted:Similarly I’m partial to The Rag Company. These are sold out, but I’d recommend when they get restocked. Never seen that before, but it looks awesome. Got one ordered from the Evil Empire, they have those in stock.
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Jun 14, 2021 23:15
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EVERYWHERE 
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Anyone have a rough estimate for what I should expect to pay for a paint correction on a black car (LS 460) with a lot of swirls (had rough car washes before I got it)? From one of the local established mobile detailing businesses, I don't have the time to track down an independent guy from the detailing forums although that would probably be cheaper.
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Jun 15, 2021 06:42
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Depends on how bad the car is and how good the shop is but Id say anywhere from $400-$1000 isnt unreasonable for a full decontam + paint correction and polish.
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Jun 15, 2021 10:44
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savesthedayrocks posted:Similarly I’m partial to The Rag Company. These are sold out, but I’d recommend when they get restocked. Looks like a good one. Where would it rank on mild/medium/etc compared to something like Meguiars mild clay?
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Jun 15, 2021 13:32
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Hey thread - read the OP and a few pages back and couldn't find what I was looking for. What is recommended to spray on the underside of a vehicle to remove years or road grime, etc on aluminum? Ideally something to spray on, soak and hose off or spray on with some slight agitation and then hose off?
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Jun 15, 2021 14:26
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slidebite posted:Hey thread - read the OP and a few pages back and couldn't find what I was looking for. Depending on grime composition, I'd say either a bug and tar remover like Stoner's Tarminator, or strong-mixed Simple Green. Either may need agitation and soak time to really loosen some of the old stuff. Then again, I've had cars that I've had to scrape the gunk off with a scraper before I even got to that point.
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Jun 15, 2021 16:41
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Digital_Jesus posted:Depends on how bad the car is and how good the shop is but Id say anywhere from $400-$1000 isnt unreasonable for a full decontam + paint correction and polish. Thanks, I had been roughly guessing $750 so good to know I'm not way off.
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Jun 15, 2021 17:05
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meatpimp posted:Depending on grime composition, I'd say either a bug and tar remover like Stoner's Tarminator, or strong-mixed Simple Green. Either may need agitation and soak time to really loosen some of the old stuff. I'll give simple green a shot with a soak and brush... see how it turns out. Thanks.
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Jun 15, 2021 17:08
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Bob Mundon posted:Looks like a good one. Where would it rank on mild/medium/etc compared to something like Meguiars mild clay? Good question, unfortunately don’t know the answer. I didn’t notice any halo marks, but I was always going to polish so wasn’t concerned just wanted speed. Their customer service is super quick, I’d shoot them an email if you are looking for a particular tier.
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Jun 15, 2021 17:39
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Kinda detailing, kinda not, but can anyone help explain the differences in the grades/product differences of available window tints? All my search results are coming up with variations on" 3M crystalline isn't really crystalline it's a scam" when I try to compare the differences between the Basic Tint, Ceramic Tint, and Crystalline tint. From a retail stand point, the differences are about $250/$500/$800 for the same car. When I had last looked/gotten tint done, ceramic was the big thing and offered good IR+UV blocking at all VLT levels, but now there are even MORE options and i'm doing a heckin confuse.
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Jun 18, 2021 17:44
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I’ve always gone with the cheapest tint that offers a lifetime fade warranty and have been happy. My BMW is going on a decade+ with Suntek carbon 18% and I don’t see any evidence of fade/peel/etc. My other cars are tinted with the same tint and I’m still happy but they’re much newer tint jobs.
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Jun 18, 2021 18:01
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Yeah, I've got basic 3M on the civic, but the i've heard that the clear available at ceramic/crystalline level is nice since you can do the windshield with 100% VLT and 100% IR/UV blocking. I just can't find poo poo on what makes it "worth it"
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Jun 18, 2021 18:24
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Ah I’m getting conflicting information on when to use touch up paint. I have some chips on my hood and bought a kit from dr. Colorchip. Their videos say the touch up is the last step of the detail process-so get everything cleaned/detailed, and then apply the touch up paint. But here I’m seeing I should apply the paint and wait 30 days before having someone detail it/do it myself. So….???
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Jun 19, 2021 02:52
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slidebite posted:Mostly road grime, maybe some leaking oil mixed in with dirt and becoming somewhat tar like. Strongly mixed Simple Green will discolor aluminum, if that matters.
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Jun 19, 2021 03:04
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That's not ideal. Thanks for the heads-up
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Jun 19, 2021 05:43
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nwin posted:Ah I’m getting conflicting information on when to use touch up paint. When I did it, I washed it normally, then used isopropyl alcohol on the areas to remove any wax and stuff, then did the touch up paint, waited a few days, then did strip wash and rewaxing.
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Jun 19, 2021 05:59
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toplitzin posted:Kinda detailing, kinda not, but can anyone help explain the differences in the grades/product differences of available window tints? I'm also curious about this, I've never gotten a car tinted in the US, just security film overseas, and am looking to do some tint soon. One of the places near me stocks Llumar which looks about equivalent to 3M from a quality/price standpoint? I remember that being a popular brand choice in South America.
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Jun 19, 2021 11:24
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wallaka posted:Strongly mixed Simple Green will discolor aluminum, if that matters. Is that still true? They changed the formulation about 5 years back. Either way, I've used it for 30 years in everything from 1:1 dilution to 10:1 dilution (1 part Simple Green:10 parts water) and I've never seen any issues on any metal, including aluminum. I've found that Simple Green works really well more diluted, so that's the way I normally use it. My dad uses it super strong and he's never seen an issue, but I think that's just a waste of product.
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Jun 19, 2021 13:08
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Buff Hardback posted:When I did it, I washed it normally, then used isopropyl alcohol on the areas to remove any wax and stuff, then did the touch up paint, waited a few days, then did strip wash and rewaxing. I have one of these kits for my miata I totally forgot about! Need to try this before I do a full detail again.
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Jun 19, 2021 16:26
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Tyro posted:I'm also curious about this, I've never gotten a car tinted in the US, just security film overseas, and am looking to do some tint soon. One of the places near me stocks Llumar which looks about equivalent to 3M from a quality/price standpoint? I remember that being a popular brand choice in South America. My local place uses Llumar, I've had 4-5 cars done there, always with their basic/cheapest tint. They've all held up great and I have no complaints.
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Jun 19, 2021 17:56
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meatpimp posted:Is that still true? They changed the formulation about 5 years back. Either way, I've used it for 30 years in everything from 1:1 dilution to 10:1 dilution (1 part Simple Green:10 parts water) and I've never seen any issues on any metal, including aluminum. I thought simple green causes problems if left on aluminum, not briefly used and washed off *edit* I recently discovered WD40 is amazing for cleaning grime off of motorcycles, which makes sense as that's what I was using to clean my chain anyway. I'm guessing it's paint safe? I wasn't too worried about the plastics on my now totaled bike, but I guess I should verify that before using it on my car
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Jun 19, 2021 18:33
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MomJeans420 posted:I thought simple green causes problems if left on aluminum, not briefly used and washed off Maybe that's where people run into trouble. I VERY rarely leave anything to remain on without rinsing or wiping in some way. quote:
Yep, it's a good degreaser. It's also a good coating to clean up the look of a motor, gives a tack-free satin finish, even on dirty parts.
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Jun 19, 2021 19:09
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meatpimp posted:Is that still true? They changed the formulation about 5 years back. Either way, I've used it for 30 years in everything from 1:1 dilution to 10:1 dilution (1 part Simple Green:10 parts water) and I've never seen any issues on any metal, including aluminum. I stopped using it a while back because of this, you might be right about it. drat, I hate being old.
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Jun 20, 2021 04:00
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Big Taint posted:I’m sure I’ve said it in this thread and I’ll say it again: Bleche Wite is my favorite tire cleaner. Get the tire wet, spray it on, scrub, rinse, repeat until it stops turning brown. Makes tires look brand new. gently caress tire shine. Going back to this, this stuff does indeed rock and my original concern with "aluminum" wheels isn't true, the coating on them keeps them looking good. Would like to point out though the instructions say to use on dry rubber, not to wet it first. Also if you are like me and find yourself dealing with 100% rubber mats all the time you can guess how well Bleche Wite works on those:  Really freakin' good.
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Jun 20, 2021 04:09
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No poo poo, I always thought that dry was a no-no, I guess I fail reading comprehension.
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Jun 20, 2021 04:45
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Weekend wash using Koch Chemie stuff. Gentle snow foam to clean and Spray sealant to protect. GSF has a lemony sent, works well to foam and cling to dirt. Felt as slick as the P and S Pearl I’ve been using. Spray sealant was weird to use, just two sprays per panel and then you use a microfiber applicator to spread around. After a quick flash you buff off. Gloss looked great though, and the finish seemed pretty slick. 
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Jun 20, 2021 17:09
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I don't have much pine sap/resin to get off a car but I do have some and possibly more in the future. Any recommended products? https://www.golustro.com/Products/Pine-Resin-Remover__PRR.aspx Google gave me this option that checks boxes such as 1. Never heard of them and 2. Very basic website with no details about how it works "but its safe" Maybe so?
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Jun 21, 2021 05:30
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Just chiming in to say chemical guys clay lube smells like Christmas and works well. Kind of a cinnamon scent. Any suggestions for a good car vac that works for Pyrenees/retriever fur? I use one of those soft rubber combs too.
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Jun 21, 2021 06:39
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tangy yet delightful posted:I don't have much pine sap/resin to get off a car but I do have some and possibly more in the future. Any recommended products? Hot water has taken off all the sap that I've ever run into.
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Jun 21, 2021 19:15
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When looking at buffers I see some have that adjustable D handle and some have nothing of the sorts... I like the idea of that but I've never used a buffer. Not sure if it's something I'd miss if I didn't have it or what. Experiences? Pros cons?
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Jun 26, 2021 00:52
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Krime posted:When looking at buffers I see some have that adjustable D handle and some have nothing of the sorts... I like the idea of that but I've never used a buffer. Not sure if it's something I'd miss if I didn't have it or what. Mine has sort of a grip on it on the front but not a d handle. It came with a d handle and I still have it, but I doubt I'll ever out it on.
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Jun 26, 2021 02:18
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I’ve taken the D handle off all of my polishers. I don’t feel like I can control the pressure the same with it, and you still get the vibrations.
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Jun 26, 2021 18:37
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Any ideas what I’m dealing with here or how best to remove it? I tried a simple wash and clay bar has not taken it up. I have a DA polisher if necessary but hoping to avoid that at this point if possible.  
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Jul 4, 2021 13:29
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I imagine a polish would take that right out. Doubt you'd even need to compound.
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Jul 4, 2021 14:53
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willroc7 posted:Any ideas what I’m dealing with here or how best to remove it? I tried a simple wash and clay bar has not taken it up. I have a DA polisher if necessary but hoping to avoid that at this point if possible. My first thought is bad respray under clear. That pattern doesn't match anything I've seen in the wild.
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Jul 4, 2021 15:13
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