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Carteret posted:Savage Products for what
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Jun 21, 2021 04:33
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Just VAG things  I was interested in that fumoto drain plug and searched for my '19 GTI and got that error lol
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Jun 21, 2021 04:41
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I've put the more expensive Stahlbus valve on my fleet, cause I can't even begin to imagine how gunked up the Fumoto thing would be after a salty winter.
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Jun 21, 2021 05:09
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Nidhg00670000 posted:I've put the more expensive Stahlbus valve on my fleet, cause I can't even begin to imagine how gunked up the Fumoto thing would be after a salty winter. Seconding this. Stahlbus is more expensive but the look and feel is superior in my opinion. Also the Bajonett connector is extremely satisfying to use and the double seal with the protective cap gives me less worries.
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Jun 21, 2021 13:40
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Nidhg00670000 posted:I've put the more expensive Stahlbus valve on my fleet, cause I can't even begin to imagine how gunked up the Fumoto thing would be after a salty winter. Mine is fine after a couple of Colorado winters. I haven't even lost the plastic security clip.
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Jun 21, 2021 15:05
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Carteret posted:Just VAG things
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Jun 21, 2021 15:16
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IOwnCalculus posted:Products for what Mine's plastic too. I was prepared to hate it, but it's actually nice. Makes it impossible to overtighten.  e: Night Danger Moose posted:Nope, Ford/Lincoln have plastic ones too. They come out in about a half turn and then you get a 5w20 bukkake. They are awful. I hated every time a Navigator came in for an oil change. There's a list at the bottom of everything they were in and I hate them all. It does come out really frigging fast, I agree there. I need to drill a couple more holes in my drain pan because it comes dangerously close to overflowing with how fast it fills up now.
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Jun 21, 2021 15:54
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Carteret posted:Just VAG things weird, they claim to have one for my plastic-plug-having '17 sportwagen
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Jun 21, 2021 19:25
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chrisgt posted:Helped a friend bring a shell to the junkyard today. Getting it on was only mildly sketchy, but getting it off was hilarious. But... but... Starion widebody.... Please tell me there was massive rust or the other side was completely smashed. I put a new timing belt on the Kia Spectra5... that I'm selling. Checked the mileage and service interval at STR's suggestion, and I was about 5K miles over.    new:  (note OEM tensioner in the Gates kit. Nice!) Pursuant to the hot working environment discussion upthread, canopy and fans:  (Dallas, TX. It was 95F and humid.) proper tension:  Tightening the crank bolt to 125 lb.ft., which is about 5 pound-feet less than the engine itself makes:  No bad noises on startup:  Job done!  Also popped out the bad ball joints and bushings from the control arms for my RX-7, blasted them, installed new ball joints, and painted them:       New ball joints were Beck Arnley, but actually made-in-Japan Three Fives: 
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Jun 21, 2021 19:47
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About Fumoto valves, the newer angled version with the banjo bolt style setup is really nice. I put a regular fumoto on my other cars and they're nice, but it's easy to end up with the valve pointing a direction that makes me uneasy. But really, anything is an improvement when you're dealing with plastic or magnesium like above. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 23:43 on Jun 21, 2021 |
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Jun 21, 2021 23:40
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Darchangel posted:But... but... Starion widebody.... it looked beautiful, but the entire firewall was rusted out. There was probably 20lbs of mud in the area under the windshield, everything up there was gone. It also had no floors left. The entire unibody was really rusted. Sad to see it go, but it was about done.
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Jun 21, 2021 23:55
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I'm surprised people still use drain pans for oil instead of vacuum removal. If i don't have to go under a car, I avoid it.
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Jun 22, 2021 12:36
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No. 6 posted:I'm surprised people still use drain pans for oil instead of vacuum removal. If i don't have to go under a car, I avoid it. It's just one more loving tool. All but one of my cars I can only access the filter from the bottom anyway, that needs a drain pan. So while I'm there, i may as well just drain the oil, too.
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Jun 22, 2021 13:49
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No. 6 posted:I'm surprised people still use drain pans for oil instead of vacuum removal. If i don't have to go under a car, I avoid it. I'd rather not go under the car either, but the oil filter is right next to the drain for me, plus I don't even need to jack it up, I can just shimmy under.
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Jun 22, 2021 14:02
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No. 6 posted:I'm surprised people still use drain pans for oil instead of vacuum removal. If i don't have to go under a car, I avoid it. Probably unfounded but I always feel like those won't get out as much oil as pulling the plug. Like the bottom half inch or so. Wonder if anyone has ever pulled the drain plug after using a vacuum to see what's left. e: About 4oz left in this example (starts at 10:30) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RakLAZIRgwU opengl fucked around with this message at 15:13 on Jun 22, 2021 |
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Jun 22, 2021 15:10
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Not trusting the vacuum versions to actually extract all the gunk that sits around the drain plug. When I change oil with one of the stahlbus adapters at least I don't need a drip pan though. Silicon hose goes straight into the recycling container.
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Jun 22, 2021 15:18
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I've been using the vacuum systems to change oil for probably a decade now. I usually pulled the plug every other change to get anything sitting in the bottom and check the magnetic plug for debris. It was really nice on the VW with a top mounted filter to not have to go under the car. I still use it because I can get home, stick the vacuum in then go change into garage clothes and gather supplies. It also helps with the initial oil dump and splatter when there isn't several quarts of pressure behind it.
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Jun 22, 2021 17:17
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I actually have an edge case on my Canyon regarding vacuum oil changes - where the dipstick goes can't actually reach the bottom of the sump. Otherwise it'd be a perfect candidate for top-side changes because the filter is right up top as well.
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Jun 22, 2021 17:30
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No. 6 posted:I'm surprised people still use drain pans for oil instead of vacuum removal. If i don't have to go under a car, I avoid it. lol I use a 5 gallon bucket.
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Jun 22, 2021 18:27
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opengl128 posted:Probably unfounded but I always feel like those won't get out as much oil as pulling the plug. Like the bottom half inch or so. Wonder if anyone has ever pulled the drain plug after using a vacuum to see what's left. I'm all for accessible engine oil filters, but upside down on top of the engine? 
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Jun 22, 2021 18:32
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Panty Saluter posted:I'm all for accessible engine oil filters, but upside down on top of the engine? That's exactly how the filter on my Canyon is. I just loosen it up as one of the first steps to break the internal seal so it drains the contents back to the pan before I drag out my drain pan / wrench. I also have to hand it to them, while it does use an odd size socket (27mm), they also use that exact same socket for the fuel filters. Those, unfortunately, I have not yet figured out how to do without spilling diesel everywhere - but I've only done them once so far.
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Jun 22, 2021 18:58
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Panty Saluter posted:I'm all for accessible engine oil filters, but upside down on top of the engine? It's totally fine and easier than below IMO with less clean up. Just have to remember to clean the area around the filter first before taking it off so you don't get other poo poo down there when cleaning the rest.
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Jun 22, 2021 19:26
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IOwnCalculus posted:That's exactly how the filter on my Canyon is. I just loosen it up as one of the first steps to break the internal seal so it drains the contents back to the pan before I drag out my drain pan / wrench. Well if you do the oil first and spill it, spilling diesel afterwards is really just helping clean up the first mess, right?
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Jun 22, 2021 20:01
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I forgot about Chang oil on my 4.2 vs my current 1.4. A fat plug is definitely quicker there.
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Jun 22, 2021 22:29
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New peepers and corners on the Crime Vic (stock style, didn't like the blacked out ones it had). It'll always look a little  until I replace the header panel, and some questionable things were done in attaching the passenger side light (PO booped it on that corner - corner light was totally broken, headlight pretty well broken, headlight bucket smashed up good (a rough dirt road finished off the bucket), but it'll get through inspection, which means I can get plates for it. And the light isn't bouncing around. Aim seems like it matches between the two; before, the driver's side was lighting up trees, the passenger side lighting up the bumper.
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Jun 22, 2021 23:32
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Alarbus posted:Well if you do the oil first and spill it, spilling diesel afterwards is really just helping clean up the first mess, right?  I will fully admit I was unprepared on my first oil change just how black that oil is. It feels like I should expect a lawsuit from Anish Kapoor.
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Jun 22, 2021 23:41
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Panty Saluter posted:I'm all for accessible engine oil filters, but upside down on top of the engine? Ah, I see that you have not experienced a Mazda rotary.  To be fair, it's a lot more accessible on earlier carbed and non-turbo cars.  STR posted:New peepers and corners on the Crime Vic (stock style, didn't like the blacked out ones it had). It'll always look a little See, I'm just the opposite. I don't like all that chrome up there, especially on my white car. Mine are black except for the actual reflectors, which is perfect.    I do like that yours isn't white or black, though. I'd really like the grey/silver, or blue.
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Jun 22, 2021 23:59
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Bought an Acuity Shifter and OEM spare tire kit from a goon last night for my ‘19 Si and installed them today. Five minutes for the spare tire and maybe 90 minutes for the shifter, most of which is disassembling the eleven billion pieces of trim and consoles that are in the way. I went with the tightest gate spacing and about 1/2” shorter height than stock and it feels great. The whole unit is on solid mounts instead of rubber, which helps it have absolutely zero slop in any gear and a super positive engagement.
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Jun 23, 2021 00:05
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Darchangel posted:See, I'm just the opposite. I don't like all that chrome up there, especially on my white car. Mine are black except for the actual reflectors, which is perfect. Those look good on yours, and that's exactly what the PO did to mine:  In my case, I didn't want to spend the extra $20 on the blacked out set, since you can't just buy a corner light and single headlamp with those (irony: they're the EXACT SAME HOUSING as my chrome replacements, right down to every marking on the front and back). The passenger side headlight and corner light were already broken when I got it, though the headlight still worked. I kind of want to get a chrome grill for it, but ultimately I need a header panel first. The PO busted it up pretty good when the passenger corner got booped (these pics are the day I bought it - the headlamp was just kinda sitting in there, fell out when I nudged it):   And I kinda finished off what was left of that headlight bucket on a washboard dirt road.  So it's in there... uh, very carefully (there's a cut up license plate and careful screw placement involved, also some superglue). My first stop tomorrow morning is the window tint/inspection place across the street, before the light tries to shift. Also gonna get a quote to get the back window tinted - it's been replaced, wasn't tinted to match the rest.. and I know they won't fail it over door tint being 1% too dark like what happened with Brokeback elsewhere (it got failed for being 24% VLT...  )I'm debating if I want to swap the tails or not - the PO included a set of LED tails, but the bottom section (where they had amber signals for a few year models) is clear instead of blacked out, and has a hole for a bulb socket there. If I do swap to these, I'll need to scuff up the clear portion and paint it black. Or maybe add more backup lights?  I don't particularly care for the clear lens look, personally, and I don't know that these would pass the requirement for having a red reflector on the rear, if a cop decided to be overly anal.The originals are a bit weathered. 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 01:11 on Jun 23, 2021 |
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Jun 23, 2021 00:50
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Quick and dirty stitch job on the driver side seat in the Redneck Ranger
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Jun 23, 2021 17:28
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STR posted:Those look good on yours, and that's exactly what the PO did to mine: I don't like the chrome grill, either, but that's me. I have the same taillights on mine. They're adequate, though I'd prefer they were brighter. I grabbed a couple spare reverse light sockets, and was planning to wire them into the turn signal location. Alternate is to throw a set of red LED bulbs in there using the second taillight socket (the LED taillight assembly only needs one of them. Though there are two plugs. I *think* one has a ballast resistor, and the other doesn't. Or something, It's been a while. Regardless, you only need one of the plugs on each connected for them to work.) Alternately, sell them on eBay for $100 or so.
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Jun 23, 2021 19:56
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Red bulbs in a clear lens is illegal in TX. No telling if anyone will actually hassle you about it, but it's listed as a fail in the inspector handbook. I got pulled over for doing just that on my Civic when I went to the 99-00 red/clear tails from 96-98 red/amber (you're supposed to use an amber bulb in the 99-00 housings), but that car screamed ricer. Car is now fully legal - passed inspection, titled, got plates on it. I'll probably sell the lights...... and use the money to put glasspacks on it. 
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Jun 23, 2021 23:38
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I had to overnight parts from Japan. 
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Jun 24, 2021 03:32
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PO included a set of aftermarket LED taillight assemblies, but no directions with them. Tried putting one on. It's a good sign when the carpet is already peeled back on that corner and the nuts holding the taillamp on are only finger right, right? Hooked it up one way... got a working solid light, even without brakes. Another way, got a flickering light if the OTHER signal was on, nothing if that signal or brake lights were on. Another way, all of the parking lights started flashing for a moment with the turn signal, then the turn signal fuse popped. Stepped on the brakes, parking lights and one headlight lit up dimly  , brake light fuse then popped too.  Every inch of wiring involving any light on the rear of this car is a mess of upfucker asshattery - it's almost all twist and tape, all black or red wires. Not even crimps, just tape. There's a bundle of wires behind the license plate just taped off that go ?????? to a ??????? flasher module of some kind on the trunk lid, which audibly clicks when the backup lights come on.. or the brake lights.. or turn signals. At least the upfucker had the courtesy to use vampire taps up front, but everything is one wire color up there. Ford is nice enough to not only provide you with multiple BEEFY rear end plugs to tie into every possible circuit you'd want to use as an upfitter; they even give you a 50+ page book outlining EVERY loving CIRCUIT, how to tie specific pieces of equipment into each plug, suggested ways to tie lightbars, flashers, etc in... every plug is untouched, except for the one for the front wig-wag flasher. (flasher is still there, wires are cut tho)
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:49 on Jun 24, 2021 |
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Jun 24, 2021 05:41
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😢 I’ll be away for the next two weeks so no EP3 or S2000 fun times
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Jun 24, 2021 14:46
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STR posted:Stepped on the brakes, parking lights and one headlight lit up dimly Granted this was almost 20 years ago now, but I ran into something similar with an ex's Integra where someone had put a single filament bulb (I can remember if the single filament is 1156 or 1157) in a socket for a dual filament bulb, bridging the two circuits, which created a situation where hitting the brakes would light the parking lights. We scratched our heads over it for WEEKS trying to figure out wtf was going on, because the car was otherwise solid as a rock. The situation was only resolved when we mentioned it during the intake for an inspection [in Honolulu], where a Mister Miyagi lookin' greybeard overheard us, silently walked to the back of the car, swapped the bulb and resolved it once and for all. Now that I"m thinking about it, "someone" must have bumped up the fuses for those circuits as well, because they should probably have popped, right? Or do I have that backwards? I see a vic takes a 3/4157 bulb, could it be that there's a single "filament" LED (3156?) in the socket instead?
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Jun 24, 2021 18:08
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Speaking of brake light problems, I noticed one of my brake lights didn't light up last night. Spent the morning working and brainstorming, trying to figure out where the wire could have been damaged or where a ground might be compromised ... It appears that I didn't fully insert the bulb into the socket, which is why I had to fish it out of the housing.
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Jun 24, 2021 22:32
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STR posted:PO included a set of aftermarket LED taillight assemblies, but no directions with them. I mentioned it on Messenger, but that module on the trunk lid is factory. I *think* I have the P71-specific wiring diagram around somewhere, but yeah, it's supposed to be there, to protect the LCM from asshat upfitters, and I think maybe to convert the normal civilian CV separate turn signals to the combined brake/turn like the earlier models. And yeah, red bulbs in clear lenses are illegal (because Texas still lives in neanderthal times). I wouldn't give a poo poo, but I now remember how much trouble you have as is where you are. BTW, I might have some 4157 LEDs. I'm pretty sure I put them in before I bought the full-LED assemblies. I'll need to go look out in the shed.
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Jun 24, 2021 23:56
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Krakkles posted:Speaking of brake light problems, I noticed one of my brake lights didn't light up last night. Spent the morning working and brainstorming, trying to figure out where the wire could have been damaged or where a ground might be compromised ... At least it wasn't full of coolant!
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Jun 25, 2021 01:59
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| # ? May 15, 2024 08:32 |
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 Old and busted/new hotness etc etc Edit: your mans vs me
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Jun 25, 2021 04:02
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