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honda whisperer posted:Comedy option just a little nitrous. Sienna To-Do Dual hydraulic e-brakes for manual torque vectoring This seems like something I can do myself, and the parts aren't very expensive. I've been in at least three situations where I think I wouldn't have needed the winch if I had torque vectoring, mostly when crossed up doing u-turns on rutted roads. Plus this mod scores big points in the comedy and wtf categories. Prerunner front bumper This would be done by Califabrication in Sacramento. I need to take some pics and chat with them about it. I feel like I have given the stock bumper and tiedown points a lot of use and abuse, and legit need something stronger. Thanks StormDrain for suggesting the prerunner style, which should solve my worries about adding too much weight. I need to talk to Califab to get a sense of price and difficulty. The hitch receiver is a good idea and I will keep it in mind. Winching the van by hand is always an ordeal. How big of a winch do I need? The van weighs roughly 4,000 lbs empty, plus maybe 1,000 lbs of cargo. Windshield I've been putting this off until the suspension overhaul was finished and tested. It's a low priority, but also a no-brainer if I'm going to keep driving the van long term. Gasoline smell when hot After I shut the engine down when hot, for 5-10 minutes there is a gurgling sound under the hood, and the smell of hot oil and gasoline vapors. No gas smell when cold. I'm pretty sure this is a hose in the PCV system or something similar. I need to get in there and poke around. It's probably not raw gas spewing from the fuel system (I hope). No check engine light. Insufficient cost/benefit or otherwise dumb: Snorkle: Not needed if I'm careful. Stock intake is at headlight height, not great, not terrible. Rear air spring suspension helper: New springs and shocks are good enough. Locking diff: Expensive / not easily done on a Sienna. Nitrous or supercharger: Cost + engine damage risk + minimal practical benefit is not outweighed by admittedly high comedy potential.
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Jun 24, 2021 00:49
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I'd go for an 8 or 9k lb winch, those are the most common size anyways for fairly small (XJ, MJ, TJ, etc) off-road vehicles. The receiver mount idea is good too, just make sure it's high enough that you won't be trying to put it in with your nose stuffed into a hill or berm already. If you put sb175 Anderson connectors (or even the next size up maybe depending on the winch you get and the duty cycle needed) with appropriately sized cable to the front and rear it'll be fast to hook the winch up, too. You can get a 16 ton hydraulic crimper for this for 50 bucks on Amazon and make the cables yourself easily enough. Mine have more than paid for themselves at this point. This is great for jump leads too.
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Jun 24, 2021 01:05
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Which winch brands are good? And why do none of them list winch weight in the specs? They have tons of specs for each model, but weight is curiously absent. (That's because they're all loving heavy as gently caress, right?)
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Jun 24, 2021 02:43
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Darchangel posted:I would definitely buy a winch, mount it on a receiver mount, and install receivers on both ends of the van with quick connect cables, if I didn't want one permanently mounted. Seconding this. Bumper vs not? Ziptie the stocker on for now. Trim some of the lower edge off. Go with the prerunner idea, the shop that built your skidplate might be up for it. Mostly tube with plate mounts to the unibody and a sheet metal skid shouldn't be 100lb.
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Jun 24, 2021 02:44
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I would love to see this thing with a snorkel. I feel like I can always tell the stuff that actually off-roads vs the stuff that doesn't and a snorkel on the real ones is awesome. Also, idk how well this would work, but strap a tiny war boy action figure in front of the snorkel and spray the nitrous from his mouth into it.
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Jun 24, 2021 02:54
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ryanrs posted:Which winch brands are good? And why do none of them list winch weight in the specs? They have tons of specs for each model, but weight is curiously absent. (That's because they're all loving heavy as gently caress, right?) I have smittybilt xrc8 on my trucks, it works fine. Will free spool better if you regrease it with good grease instead of the lovely peanut butter they come with. They're fine for home gamers, if you were in king of the hammers or something I'd say a Warn or Superwinch. They don't list weight because 99.9% of their customers are people who will take out a 240lb Dana 30 and put in a 550lb Dana 60... With a truss and a diff cover that weighs 15lb by itself, 40lbs of 1.25" heim joints, and 30lbs of DOM tubing control arms. From memory of how they make my back feel, you are looking at between 60 and 100lb for an xrc8 but don't hold me to that. E: internet says 94lb for xrc8. kastein fucked around with this message at 04:09 on Jun 24, 2021 |
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Jun 24, 2021 04:04
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I started thinking about the snorkel after reading posts from some very mad Sienna owners that hydrolocked their engines in flooded, but not that flooded, streets. And I have used my Sienna for water crossings several times, up to maybe 1 foot deep. These are generally paved low spots on the road where the county didn't feel like installing a bridge, not a wild river crossing. But after inspecting the Sienna, the airbox inlet is at headlight height (it's behind the left headlight, in fact). Which seems fine, as long as you aren't plowing through at speed. I always creep through water as slowly as I can, and it's never been a problem. I absolutely won't drive through deep water in a situation where I need speed/kinetics to get up the opposite bank. That's just stupid (in a minivan). So based on no real data, I've decided most of the people complaining about waterlocking their Siennas either misjudged the water depth / are lying, or they hit the water at speed and ingested their own bow wave.
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Jun 24, 2021 04:27
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It's certainly the last thing. Hit it fast and make it worse. I'd suspect if you tried to cross anything deeper than your headlight you'd just float off.
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Jun 24, 2021 04:29
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ryanrs posted:I started thinking about the snorkel after reading posts from some very mad Sienna owners that hydrolocked their engines in flooded, but not that flooded, streets. And I have used my Sienna for water crossings several times, up to maybe 1 foot deep. These are generally paved low spots on the road where the county didn't feel like installing a bridge, not a wild river crossing. If you're going to go in water at all, I would vote for a snorkel - if only a short one that stuck just a few inches above the hood. The main value would be you could see it and exactly how high the water level is. I would not trust the under-hood intake to stay dry when I couldn't see what was going on. Water could get kicked up by pulleys, belts, radiator fans, or who knows what else and you could find yourself hydrolocked in water several feet below the actual intake level. It's your van, though, not mine.
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Jun 24, 2021 04:33
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Deteriorata posted:If you're going to go in water at all, I would vote for a snorkel - if only a short one that stuck just a few inches above the hood. The main value would be you could see it and exactly how high the water level is. I would not trust the under-hood intake to stay dry when I couldn't see what was going on. Water could get kicked up by pulleys, belts, radiator fans, or who knows what else and you could find yourself hydrolocked in water several feet below the actual intake level. Sienna Shaker.
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Jun 24, 2021 04:36
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94 lbs is too much. I live in a condo and have to lug that poo poo up two flights of stairs. This Warn VR Evo 8-S appears to be 54 lbs, which is more reasonable, but still loving heavy (need to factor in the mounting plate, etc). Realistically, what I'm probably going to do is get the hitch receivers installed, then not buy the winch to go with it. I'll just keep using my manual come-along. I'll make the decision to finally buy the electric winch sometime in the future, probably while operating my manual winch. e: Need to paint load lines on the side of the Sienna to indicate intake height. 
ryanrs fucked around with this message at 04:55 on Jun 24, 2021 |
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Jun 24, 2021 04:46
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honda whisperer posted:
FTFY
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Jun 24, 2021 11:42
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Hydraulic E-brake Talk Apparently competitive 4x4s sometimes install a thing called a cutting brake to individually brake the RL or RR wheels. Here's Wilwood's cutting brake. It's cool that both sides are integrated into a single lever, but I'm not going to tie my redundant brake circuits together like that. I need separate inlets. For the dual-lever setup, I'm thinking this vertical lever and this master cylinder. This is the closest reference I could find for Sienna brake line psi. It's in one of the inspection procedures for the brake proportioning valve.  Based on those couple numbers and some wild speculation, I'm guessing "hard braking" is 1,000+ psi, and for torque vectoring I will be using more like 200-400 psi, i.e. before the proportioning valve starts splitting front vs rear unequally. And arm force should be, uh, maybe 10 lbf? 10 lbf arm force * 11:1 lever ratio / master cylinder area = psi code:
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Jun 24, 2021 22:49
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ryanrs posted:94 lbs is too much. I live in a condo and have to lug that poo poo up two flights of stairs. This Warn VR Evo 8-S appears to be 54 lbs, which is more reasonable, but still loving heavy (need to factor in the mounting plate, etc). Why would you even take it out of the van? Weld in a receiver somewhere in the cargo area and pin it in there with a locking pin if you're worried about it disappearing. Somewhere covered - out of sight, out of mind. For a winch, cheap-rear end Harbor Freight is always an option, just be aware it's a cheap rear end, and take your come-along, too. I have a 120V HF winch mounted on a plate with a wall hook cum carry handle I use to move non-op vehicles around the house (yeah...)  It's a "1500" pound, and it does a good job dragging things around on flat ground, but that's not the same thing as dragging a 2-ton van out of a sand pit. I'm just saying it's a functional winch that does winch things, for now, at least. :P
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Jun 24, 2021 23:38
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ryanrs posted:Hydraulic E-brake Talk So is the plan to have stand alone masters for each corner and tie into the front lines?
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Jun 25, 2021 01:20
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Now that I think of it, I used to roll a Bombardier Muskeg tracked tractor with a drill mounted to the back of it, and the steering relied on skidding and a lever attached to two different master cylinders that controlled a right and left "brake band" (don't know what else to call them). They were dead simple to work on and pretty reliable. You could definitely macgyver something like that up if you can find a pair of similar single circuit master cylinders. You could use a regular brake caliper for the braking duties themselves, the biggest issues would be mounting a separate caliper. Or it probably wouldn't be too complicated to put a Y fitting going to each caliper off the main brake line. Keeping in mind of course, that if you did that and your brakes horribly fail and cause you to die, you didn't hear that idea from me.
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Jun 25, 2021 01:59
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honda whisperer posted:So is the plan to have stand alone masters for each corner and tie into the front lines? Here's a diagram of the Sienna master cylinder, brake booster, and the combined ABS actuator/proportioning valve module.  The ABS actuator output is a bank of four brake lines, one going to each caliper. This makes the plumbing nice and simple. Each e-brake gets plumbed in series with it's respective caliper. New routing will be: ABS FL out -> L e-brake in, L e-brake out -> FL caliper ABS FR out -> R e-brake in, R e-brake out -> FR caliper ABS RL out -> RL caliper (no change) ABS RR out -> RR caliper (no change) The master cylinders on the e-brakes are a special pass-through design, meant to be plumbed inline with the pedal brake master cylinder. They don't have reservoirs, for example. And they have internal valving so they play nice with the foot pedal (supposedly, I want a detailed diagram but haven't found one yet). Two main parts of this project: 1) Mounting plate for the twin e-brakes. I'll prob design a machined aluminum plate to hold the two e-brakes, then attach the plate to the floor with rivnuts. The plate will provide a rigid platform so the two levers won't wobble much relative to each other. I also want to integrate some kind of locking bar or clevis pin to lock out the e-brakes during road use (i.e. most of the time). 2) Plumbing. This involves routing a total of 4 brake lines from the ABS actuator under the airbox, through the firewall, and to the e-brakes. A big question is do I want to spend $200 on brake line flaring and bending tools, or $500 on 'em? Tool recommendations are appreciated. The easiest routing is probably 4 bulkhead connectors on the firewall, and then relatively simple hardline jumpers to go to the ABS actuator and e-brakes. Now I need to learn about the difference between AN fittings, which I can buy all over the internet, and the OEM brake line connections the car currently has. Ugh, this is as annoying as residential plumbing, with the added bonus of killing you if you get it wrong.
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Jun 25, 2021 02:09
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AmbassadorofSodomy posted:You could use a regular brake caliper for the braking duties themselves, the biggest issues would be mounting a separate caliper. Or it probably wouldn't be too complicated to put a Y fitting going to each caliper off the main brake line. No separate calipers. I can't imagine integrating that on the front knuckle with all the other crap. No. Y fittings are also no good. If you pull the e-brake, it'll squirt fluid backwards through the pedal master cylinder and overflow the reservoir. The wilwood inline master cylinder should have valves and 'stuff' inside to make it play well in that configuration. I think it might be something the drifting people invented just for this purpose. I'm not sure where else such a thing would be used. They're pretty cool, tho. Here's a brochure, but no nice diagram of the internals. But they definitely talk about inline / passthrough use which sounds exactly like what I'm trying to do.
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Jun 25, 2021 02:22
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Raluek posted:The one that I've always seen recommended here, which I was planning on buying for myself when it comes time to do brakes in the spring, is OEM 24364, Was recommended this for my civic and was tickled pink using it. It makes single or double flares. I wound up buying a similar looking one that did bubble flares as well but it sucked. Worked, but was just so poorly made. I've done -3 an single flare brake stuff years ago iirc. It was the easiest thing but that's all I remember.
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Jun 25, 2021 02:25
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at autozone
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This would be the perfect time to do an EV swap with 1 motor per wheel  This will certainly be interesting, good luck and be safe 
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Jun 25, 2021 02:28
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I'm glad you're checking for inline operation on those because that was a concern I was about to bring up 10 posts ago. You might want to verify that they can move enough fluid to do what you want with a reasonable amount of lever movement - checking master cylinder diameter and throw should be enough to answer this question, and you'll only need a bit over a quarter of it's total displacement since there are 4 wheels running off one double-piston MC there.
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Jun 25, 2021 02:35
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Ahhhh so what you want to do here is what motorsport would call a fiddle brake? That a hydraulic handbrake but instead of working on the one circuit, you have a dual circuit that can be used to sepereaty brake one wheel or the other? So I cant tell you the exact parts but the operation is pretty simple and can be done inline or with a separate brake assembly. Inline the issue will be making sure the system is bled because a dual system hydralic is a right loving bitch at the best of times to bleed. So the principle is that with the fiddle brake, say pushing the handle forwards locks the right side and pull back locks the left, thats what you want to get? https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/48491-fiddle-brakes/ Edit : Bingo, I knew the Brits would be able to tell you how to do a fiddle brake with off the shefl parts CAT INTERCEPTOR fucked around with this message at 02:48 on Jun 25, 2021 |
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Jun 25, 2021 02:45
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Re. fluid volume, I think the drifters tend to use one of these master cylinders to drive both rear brakes. My fronts are probably larger than their rears, but each of my e-brakes is driving only a single caliper. My gut says I'll be fine on volume, but I don't really have a way to calculate it. I can't find numeric specs for the Sienna master cylinder.
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Jun 25, 2021 02:53
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My current question is what happens in the following scenario: - you have the L e-brake partially activated - then you stomp on the foot brake What happens? Possibilities: a) L caliper no change, R caliper full pressure. Bad. b) L caliper full pressure, R caliper full pressure, and e-brake is wrenched from your hand. Also bad. c) L caliper full pressure, R caliper full pressure, e-brake not pulled from your hand. Good. I haven't seen any of these behaviors specifically mentioned, so you'd hope the answer is (c) because it's the only one that isn't stupid. However, answers (a) and (b) would be simpler and cheaper to implement, heh.
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Jun 25, 2021 03:04
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ryanrs posted:My current question is what happens in the following scenario: Possible is D) master cylinder on the fiddle brake has a seal failure and spurts fluid into the cabin and also your answer is d) depends onhow you set up the circuit and the secondry master cylinder / handles but you can achieve c) inline.
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Jun 25, 2021 03:18
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My question isnt about if it's doable or even a good idea, I know both is yes from experience. My question is getting it done safely as your going to be modifying the primary braking circuit if you want to do this inline. I would recommend a dual brake system so if you have a failure, you can still drive and that an inline system is what I would call a motorsport only modification. So while Im confirming your idea is very valid, you need to carefully consider this for a road car and how you want to approach it so you have thought of failures. Every line and join / cylinder you put in is a failure point on a single circuit and I would be leery of doing this on a non competition vehicle. I also have an idea how to use the ABS system to acheive the same thing but again, this isnt something I would encourage on a road car Edit : Also on an install, this is something I would be handing off to someone who knows what they are doing. You do not want to gently caress this up for your own safety CAT INTERCEPTOR fucked around with this message at 03:31 on Jun 25, 2021 |
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Jun 25, 2021 03:29
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Extra dumb suggestion, does your sienna have an abs module that was later extended to include ETC? good chance you could bolt your HCU onto the later hydro block and then pillage a second one for solenoid windings and put them on the ETC solenoids for the front wheels, then PWM them yourself upon demand. That way the hydro block is all OEM grade and the electronics don't interfere with the factory abs and can be powered off entirely for safety when not needed.
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Jun 25, 2021 03:38
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:So while Im confirming your idea is very valid, you need to carefully consider this for a road car and how you want to approach it so you have thought of failures. Every line and join / cylinder you put in is a failure point on a single circuit and I would be leery of doing this on a non competition vehicle. There is no new single point of failure. Separation of the dual hydraulic circuits is maintained. The way the drifters do it removes redundancy because they often join the circuits to the two rear wheels through a single e-brake master cylinder. My design does not do this since I have separate e-brakes for each front caliper.
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Jun 25, 2021 03:46
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ryanrs posted:There is no new single point of failure. Separation of the dual hydraulic circuits is maintained. The way the drifters do it removes redundancy because they often join the circuits to the two rear wheels through a single e-brake master cylinder. My design does not do this since I have separate e-brakes for each front caliper. Im aware how drifters do it, being a old/long time rally driver - we invented that poo poo! - the best way is actually to keep the dual rear lines and use a AP racing dual circuit cylinder. But that wasn't my concern - a single circuit is referring to a single line to one wheel, you are introducing more components and also re-routing lines. Every change is introducing new failure possibilities you need to consider. If you have a four channel ABS the idea kastein mentioned is viable - keeps your hardware in place as it was stock and the failure fix can be as simple as pulling a fuse.
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Jun 25, 2021 04:01
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kastein posted:Extra dumb suggestion, does your sienna have an abs module that was later extended to include ETC? good chance you could bolt your HCU onto the later hydro block and then pillage a second one for solenoid windings and put them on the ETC solenoids for the front wheels, then PWM them yourself upon demand. That way the hydro block is all OEM grade and the electronics don't interfere with the factory abs and can be powered off entirely for safety when not needed. I don't know what a lot of these terms are. I definitely have one of these, with the 2 lines coming from the master cylinder and 4 lines going out probably to the 4 calipers, though I haven't traced them all out. I don't see one of these:  How do you find documentation for how these modules work? Is it a matter of taking them apart and trawling through message board posts?
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Jun 25, 2021 04:54
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Pretty much. As luck would have it, I'm at my hangar tonight so here are some pics to illustrate. This is from the Teves mark 20 system I mentioned previously since I have too many of them sitting here. 4 unmodified and one hacked up on my desk back home, specifically. Here's the unit.  Top row ports are Primary and Secondary from the MC Next row are Front Right, Front Left, unused, and Rear.  Finally a reason I own an external torx #6 socket. 4 bolts, one abs pump connector and the HCU (which contains all the control electronics and the solenoid bobbins) comes right off the hydro block:  Notice there are openings in the plastic for a fourth bank of sustain/decay solenoids (which would be milled out of the hydro block if this was a 4 channel instead of a 3 channel abs unit) and also two openings in a third row, which according to my information are for mark 20 units that support ETC - electronic traction control. Essentially the only difference on ETC is that instead of only being able to block the driver from adding more pressure to the caliper and letting fluid that's already in there back out using the first two banks of solenoids, the ABS HCU has a third set of solenoids that allow it to add fluid without the driver touching the pedal, applying the brakes without user input. It uses this to do exactly what you want to do. So my thought is if you can swap the hydraulics block from a later, ETC enabled abs controller of the same family as the one in your sienna underneath the OEM HCU, it will probably just bolt right on. It won't do anything with the extra solenoids since, well, the bobbins and driver transistors and firmware don't exist. So if you then hack up another abs unit and stick the solenoid bobbins in the empty holes, with extension leads to whatever you want, you can control them. Of course, you'd still need a source of hydraulic pressure that doesn't depend on the pedal, so this may be a non starter idea, I'd have to spend some time looking at the exact hydraulic block used on that year and later siennas to figure out how to do that. I'm guessing it will use either a nitrogen accumulator built into the unit or the abs pump (fun fact: the abs pump doesn't pump the brakes on most systems, it's used to get the fluid drained by the drain solenoids out of an accumulator and force it back into the master cylinder by pumping back against your foot while the block solenoids prevent you from adding more) to move more fluid into the calipers, but I have no evidence to support that claim yet.
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Jun 25, 2021 05:26
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ryanrs posted:How do you find documentation for how these modules work? Is it a matter of taking them apart and trawling through message board posts? The service manual for my volvo has a bunch of pages about how the abs and traction control system works, with lots of valve diagrams and descriptions of the various states. Maybe there is something like that for toyota? 
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Jun 25, 2021 05:45
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While I do appreciate the practical benefits of electronic control, should that be possible on my 2000 Sienna (not at all clear at this point), I feel I need to acknowledge the aesthetic superiority of the purely hydraulic solution. In particular, the two-lever interface encourages a madman-like flailing at the controls, as you swap levers to reroute torque. The theatrics alone are worth something, I think. I'm not saying this should be the determining factor, but it is a factor.
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Jun 25, 2021 06:50
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Regarding safety, I think it comes down to a couple things: - Quality parts from a reputable manufacturer, not Amazon or Ebay rando poo poo. Wilwood is good, yeah? They are a legit performance/racing manufacturer, as far as I know. - Making good flare connections. I'm willing to spend several hundred dollars on a nice hydraulic flaring tool, if that helps make better connections. I have no problem spending extra for copper-nickel brake line if that eases bending and flaring. - The design maintains separation between the dual hydraulic circuits, so even if there is a failure, it should only be a partial failure. - I will incorporate a mechanical lockout for road use, so falling cargo or whatever can't activate one of the e-brakes and lock up a front wheel. Are there other risks I should be aware of?
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Jun 25, 2021 07:01
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I'm trying to figure out what brake line hardware/adapters I need for this master cylinder: Wilwood 260-15089 GS Compact Remote Master Cylinder 5/8" If I'm guessing correctly, it has plain 7/16-20 inlet and 3/8-24 outlet which can connect with, like, banjo bolts and copper washers? And they include an adapter to hook 3/16" hard line with an SAE 45 double flare to the 3/8-24 outlet? I'm also trying decide if I should have braided stainless hoses somewhere near the handbrakes, so I can unbolt them and move them aside or whatever. Is that something I will regret not doing if I go all hard line?
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Jun 25, 2021 21:16
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If it makes things easier, you could get some hoses made full length from a hydraulic store and not have to worry about flares and hard lines at all. Only issue I'd see is you probably don't know for sure how long they need to be vs just buying a bunch of hardline, cutting, bending and flaring as needed.
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Jun 25, 2021 22:32
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AmbassadorofSodomy posted:If it makes things easier, you could get some hoses made full length from a hydraulic store and not have to worry about flares and hard lines at all. I've checked the fitment of the 15" Wilwood handbrake lever, and it's too short. But there's this 18" handbrake that uses the Wilwood cast base and master cylinder, but adds its own garish oversize handle. Perfect!  Two of those will mount on the floor between the seats, a bit forward of the cupholders. Top of the levers will be about the same height as the radio preset buttons. Exact placement will need to be far enough back that my knuckles don't hit the radio. Hand position is palm on the top of the lever, not fingers wrapped around/power grip. I should probably send them an email asking about lever ratios and master cylinder bores. I think if I shoot the brake lines straight into the bottom of the center console at floor level, I can hit the firewall in a pretty good place.  Next step might be buying a handbrake so I can measure it and start designing the mounting plate.
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Jun 26, 2021 07:04
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Ahhhh so what you want to do here is what motorsport would call a fiddle brake? That a hydraulic handbrake but instead of working on the one circuit, you have a dual circuit that can be used to sepereaty brake one wheel or the other? I just caught up and was about to post that you should lookup "fiddle brakes" as that is what we call what you want to do in the UK. I used to know the guy who made the simple technique suggestion in the above forum post back in the usenet days. ryanrs posted:Two of those will mount on the floor between the seats, a bit forward of the cupholders. Top of the levers will be about the same height as the radio preset buttons. Exact placement will need to be far enough back that my knuckles don't hit the radio. Hand position is palm on the top of the lever, not fingers wrapped around/power grip. I should probably send them an email asking about lever ratios and master cylinder bores. There seems to be plenty of options around for off the shelf twin cylinder, twin lever fiddle/hydraulic hand brake/drift brake setups rather than using two seperate ones. Would make your mounting simpler ryanrs posted:I'd rather not do it all in hose, because I want to keep a firm pedal. Not that the minivan's brakes are firm at all, but I don't want to make them worse. If you buy yourself a decent flaring tool making up your own brake lines is really easy. If you get yourself a small compressor and a vacuum bleeder too then bleeding this up should also be fairly trivial.
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Jun 26, 2021 13:18
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McLaren: The Search for the Extra Pedal Story of McLaren using a fiddle brake during the late 90s, up until it was banned. I'm pretty sure "banned from F1" is a stronger endorsement than "used in F1", so that's pretty cool. Tomarse posted:There seems to be plenty of options around for off the shelf twin cylinder, twin lever fiddle/hydraulic hand brake/drift brake setups rather than using two seperate ones. Would make your mounting simpler There's this dual-lever kit from the UK, which would end up being cheaper. I'm not too bothered about making my own mounting plate, though. Off the shelf dual lever is prob $500, vs buying two separate levers and making a cnc mounting plate is more like $1000 (both figures are including some new tools, though). Designing my own mounting plate will also let me integrate a mechanical lockout, which I think is kinda important for road use. My reasons are pretty specific to my particular van, but that area between the seats and the driver / passenger footwells is like the bermuda triangle of loose gear and garbage. Everything from soda cans to my loving fire extinguisher ends up falling in that gap, especially as the van becomes progressively less organized over the course of a trip. The van's floor is almost totally flat, with no ridges, lips, or other barriers to poo poo rolling around. And somehow it all gets funneled right there. Link other twin-lever setups if you see any. Tomarse posted:If you buy yourself a decent flaring tool making up your own brake lines is really easy. Poking around on other internet forums, it seems the biggest win for making good flares is using copper-nickel brake line instead of steel, even more so than having fancy hydraulic flaring tools. So I'll probably go with the fancy tubing and a less fancy tools.
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Jun 26, 2021 19:08
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| # ? May 23, 2024 16:17 |
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I love copper nickel tubing and I have a gang of it I'm about to use on my car. It's pretty cheap and I have a ton of it, I bought a roll and found my old roll too. Lmk if I can mail it to you. I will have no use for it in a weeks time.
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Jun 26, 2021 19:17
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