|
a pale ghost posted:Can you recommend any in particular? Vallejo gloss black primer. Use a large brush for efficiency but make sure it doesn't clog too much detail. You're looking for a thin but complete coverage just so the paint will stick to the model. Don't worry about getting consistent color opacity with it.
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2021 21:24
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 10, 2024 14:59 |
|
|
Spanish Manlove posted:Vallejo gloss black primer. Also White Vallejo Surface primer, I brushed that on for years before getting an airbrush. You don't need full coverage, but you also don't need to worry about it if the coat is inconsistent or a little thick in places, the primer shrinks a little as it dries and ends up with a very thin coat that doesn't obscure details unless it's drenched.
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2021 22:22
|
|
|
I got some ice grey Scale75 primer marketed for their new contrast analogs. tested it out last weekend in regular painting (start with sketching out colors using the darkest shades then bringing things up to max highlights via layers, no washes were used) and it wasnt that much different than a black primer in that paints that need two coats still needed two coats. Of note, vallejo black-red still had weird coverage but that's how it reacts over black anyway. Nothing better, nothing worse. However the reason why I got it was to try out speed painting something with contrast paints by drybrushing pure white over it for zenithal then using contrast paints. But that will eventually happen one day I guess.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 01:14
|
|
|
Spanish Manlove posted:I got some ice grey Scale75 primer marketed for their new contrast analogs. tested it out last weekend in regular painting (start with sketching out colors using the darkest shades then bringing things up to max highlights via layers, no washes were used) and it wasnt that much different than a black primer in that paints that need two coats still needed two coats. Of note, vallejo black-red still had weird coverage but that's how it reacts over black anyway. Nothing better, nothing worse. Woah what is this about scale 75 contasts? I've been meaning to try some of their paint and some of this in a cart would definitely tip me over
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 01:43
|
|
|
w00tmonger posted:Woah what is this about scale 75 contasts? I've been meaning to try some of their paint and some of this in a cart would definitely tip me over There was a kickstarter recently. A friend picked them up and they are far fewer saturated colours than GW contrasts which can be good if that's what you're looking for.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 02:15
|
|
|
As I'm slowly getting better at mini painting, I've been watching a lot of streams on techniques and such for undershading / glazing / layering etc. A lot of the videos show people thinning their paint with acrylic/glaze solutions. I don't have any of those and have just been using water. I've already spent a fair bit just getting back into the hobby, and so kinda don't want to spend any more money on supplies for the time being. Will there be much issue if I just thin my paints with water for now?
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 02:58
|
|
|
Water is fine
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 03:00
|
|
|
w00tmonger posted:Woah what is this about scale 75 contasts? I've been meaning to try some of their paint and some of this in a cart would definitely tip me over https://michtoy-from-the-front.blogspot.com/2020/06/michtoy-sneak-peek-scale75-upcoming.html I ordered the healing potions and the mana elixirs sets. The mana ones were backordered so they;ll come eventually but I tested out a few of the red contrast paints and they cover well with just the right opacity in the recesses and some translucence on the raised areas, they flow nicely, and I appreciate them being in dropper bottles. The lascannons on this guy are using VMC jet exhaust then chrome for the raised areas, then applying one of these instant paints. I think it was the life red color. Then I drybrushed p3 frostbite to make it look frostbitten.  And the skin flaps on the wound things are done similarly but I used dragon's blood as life red didn't seem bloody enough. I was extremely happy with the vibrancy of the color yet I could still see the metallics behind it.  Edit: yeah I know it's not the best showcase for them but I really only use contrast as weird filters over things. Spanish Manlove fucked around with this message at 03:24 on Jun 23, 2021 |
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 03:08
|
|
|
XPostin' in the USA (HH 30k thread.Major Spag posted:Oh yeah, nice work. Let's keep this robutt train movin!
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 05:15
|
|
|
PotatoManJack posted:Will there be much issue if I just thin my paints with water for now? Water's fine but Vallejo has a little bottle of glaze medium for like $3~4 if you ever want to try it out.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 05:21
|
|
|
So I've stopped doing the Oath Thread for now, as it was another time pressure contributing to stress, and simultaneously tried a fiddly (and stressful) experiment; painting each member of the Crimson Court in each of the four brands of paint I have. This is mostly as I try to move away from giving S75 too much more money as they're a bit fashy. Apologies if things are a little washed out - was playing with a new lighting setup that's easier for me to put up, and I didn't have a huge amount of time to tweak things. Also... moldlines - I wasn't as careful when assembling these as I should have been. First up, the winged dude using plain old ScaleColor. As expected the colouts are a bit muted, and I was still figuring out the colour scheme. SC is a pretty good range; especially when it comes to browns and greys, although the non-blue colours are never incredibly bright. This was also an exercise in basically remembering how to paint after another month-long gap - I really need to keep to a tempo.   Next up, the big guy (can't be arsed to look up names). He's painted with S75 Artist paints - a range which I'm planning on moving on at some point as they're not *that* good, and you can't buy individual tubes. They do have some really nice colours though - the NMM was making heavy use of Green Grey (actually a dark cold blue) and Pearl Grey (a warm light grey). The thicker texture makes for easier drybrushing and stippling as well.   The third model uses Instar Alpha paints which I really *want* to like, but feel they're going to take a lot more practice. It's a basic range of 18 liquid pigments, all effectively pre-thinned. They mix well, and make for good glazes but coverage is very hit and miss (the Oxide Black might as well be a wash, although I suspect I got a bad bottle?). Cheap for how good they are though, and the company will pre-mix them for you. Does not like wet pallettes unless you keep a careful eye on them.   Last, but certainly not least, the leader, painted in Kimera Kolors. NB this is the basic set *and* the special editions, and they are an absolute *joy* to paint with. Ultra-matte, and coverage and pigment density that border on some genuine witchcraft. Probably not the best for batch-painting as you have to mix most of the colours you use, but what I'd use every time for single figures. Also there's very little colour-drop as they dry, and the pigments are really, really bright. Mix perfectly and predicatbly too, and are even easily-ressurected on a wet pallette - I used at most a drop of any given colour for this figure. Pricey though, but you do get 30ml of paint in each bottle, although sometimes hard to find in stock.  
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 07:23
|
|
|
Spanish Manlove posted:Gonna go for a galaxy brain play and mix them both together For anyone who doesn't get the joke: Do not, under any circumstances, mix cleaning products, unless you can diagram the chemical reaction that will happen and explain what the products are. The average household has stuff under their sink that would be a literal war crime to combine. I'm not saying that dumping excess Simple Green into the toilet along with the hockey puck that turns the water blue will melt the flesh from your bones, I'm saying that you don't know for a fact that it won't.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 08:26
|
|
|
PotatoManJack posted:A lot of the videos show people thinning their paint with acrylic/glaze solutions. I don't have any of those and have just been using water. I've already spent a fair bit just getting back into the hobby, and so kinda don't want to spend any more money on supplies for the time being. Will there be much issue if I just thin my paints with water for now? Water is fine but if you start to get into wet blending, using Retarder is a godsend.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 08:43
|
|
|
Bucnasti posted:Also White Vallejo Surface primer, I brushed that on for years before getting an airbrush. You don't need full coverage, but you also don't need to worry about it if the coat is inconsistent or a little thick in places, the primer shrinks a little as it dries and ends up with a very thin coat that doesn't obscure details unless it's drenched. I bought a bunch of Vallejo's WW2-themed coloured primers when my LFGS got rid of them on a discount, and they're my go-to option when the weather is too bad for spray priming outside.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 09:41
|
|
|
About retarder: what's a good brand for it? I bought some of Vallejo's a while ago, and it was incredibly thick and weird to work with, to the point that I couldn't mix it into the paint.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 11:35
|
|
|
liquitex is hard to go wrong with in my experience
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 11:39
|
|
|
Electric Hobo posted:About retarder: what's a good brand for it? I bought some of Vallejo's a while ago, and it was incredibly thick and weird to work with, to the point that I couldn't mix it into the paint. I use Windsor & Newton's and it's very fluid, almost like water.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 11:45
|
|
|
 I don't have a comparison pic on hand for reference, but golden high flow green gold looks the same as plaguebearer flesh through the airbrush, is half the price per volume, and is much easier to handle with its squeeze bottle. I'm very pleased with this stuff
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 15:34
|
|
|
Mistaken For Bacon posted:
Excellent! I may pick this up, I love Plaguebearer Flesh but my tub is almost empty.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 15:42
|
|
|
Verisimilidude posted:Excellent! I may pick this up, I love Plaguebearer Flesh but my tub is almost empty. This guys paints so much he has tubs of paint!
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 16:56
|
|
|
Slowly getting more work done on my Custodes: 
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 17:04
|
|
|
  
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 17:07
|
|
|
i just bought a bunch of 15ml bottles since i figured it'd be a good idea to put the pots into droppers w/ some metal actuators contrast/shades need 30ml bottles, it seems though.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 17:12
|
|
|
Contrast just fits in 20ml, but I think GWs shades come in 25-28ml volume. The amount of paint in a GW pot can vary a little bit.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 17:19
|
|
|
Anyone know where I can get the Vallejo metal air paints for cheap? I keep looking for gold and silver and I'm not finding poo poo that's not insanely overpriced.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 20:44
|
|
|
The Demilich posted:Anyone know where I can get the Vallejo metal air paints for cheap? I keep looking for gold and silver and I'm not finding poo poo that's not insanely overpriced. michigan toy soldier
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 20:47
|
|
|
Spanish Manlove posted:michigan toy soldier Everything I'm seeing is out of stock.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 22:02
|
|
|
Where are you located?
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 22:07
|
|
|
Toebone posted:Where are you located? SW USA (CA)
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 22:09
|
|
|
The Demilich posted:Everything I'm seeing is out of stock. https://www.michtoy.com/item-VLJ-77712-Steel_Metal_Color_32ml_Bottle.html It looks in stock but I'd email them about it
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 22:41
|
|
|
I know you're just looking for the two colors but if you don't find any better options, there's a guy on ebay selling sets with all 8 for $25
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 22:56
|
|
|
Kurkalla is now 100% done. It's amazing what a mix of matte varnish, high-gloss varnish, and Woodland Scenics Water Effects (C1212) can do to make an aboleth look like a gross, slime-covered monstrosity.     I'd say my favorite details are still the eyes. I hit the pupil of the larger eyes with a matte varnish and everything around them got super-gloss. It gives a nice, subtly creepy effect as the shine on the eye just dies when it touches those pupils.
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2021 03:37
|
|
|
I got a Warpfire thrower and a Ratling Gun and these are my first metal minatures. Do I need to cut off the metal bits these rat-lads are using? There's no slot in the bases provided  so I can't just stick them in.
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2021 03:59
|
|
|
PoptartsNinja posted:Kurkalla is now 100% done. It's amazing what a mix of matte varnish, high-gloss varnish, and Woodland Scenics Water Effects (C1212) can do to make an aboleth look like a gross, slime-covered monstrosity. I love this! You're right the eyes are really good. .
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2021 04:11
|
|
|
PoptartsNinja posted:Kurkalla is now 100% done. It's amazing what a mix of matte varnish, high-gloss varnish, and Woodland Scenics Water Effects (C1212) can do to make an aboleth look like a gross, slime-covered monstrosity. Goddamn 
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2021 04:22
|
|
|
Hell yeah. I absolutely love the use of the pure white reflections to make it look like it came out of a comic book
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2021 04:30
|
|
|
What do you do with a "ruined" model? I got Rattachak's Doom Coven and I was able to paint the warp lightning Cannon and the warplock Bombardier just fine. But I assembled the stormfiends completely before i started to paint and I'm just finding that having to navigate through all the cables is making this task literally impossible. I don't want to go to the nightmare of cutting all the cables off and then we're trying to reglue them all back on again because they just barely work as they stand anyway. I almost feel like just putting them on a shelf somewhere or throwing them in the trash even. They really do deeply deeply frustrate me and I'm not sure what to do next. I really, really hate non-push fit models, seriously.
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2021 10:52
|
|
|
almost there with my first actual full squad
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2021 11:35
|
|
|
Cross posting from the 40k thread my Inquistion / Guard army that has been some very slow work over 3 years! Counts-as Jokaero, Inquisitor and Daemonhost  Acolytes  Milita Command: Priest, Counts-as Straken, Counts-as Harker  Scion Command Squad  Scions  Infantry Squad A  Infantry Squad B  Squad Heavy Weapons  Chimera  Taurox Prime  Rear view of Taurox  Valkyrie 
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2021 13:29
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 10, 2024 14:59 |
|
|
TheDiceMustRoll posted:What do you do with a "ruined" model? I got Rattachak's Doom Coven and I was able to paint the warp lightning Cannon and the warplock Bombardier just fine. But I assembled the stormfiends completely before i started to paint and I'm just finding that having to navigate through all the cables is making this task literally impossible. I don't want to go to the nightmare of cutting all the cables off and then we're trying to reglue them all back on again because they just barely work as they stand anyway. I almost feel like just putting them on a shelf somewhere or throwing them in the trash even. They really do deeply deeply frustrate me and I'm not sure what to do next. I really, really hate non-push fit models, seriously. Honestly, a lot of the time you can get away with the philosphy that if you can't reach it, it'll look ok if you don't paint it. Often just stabbing a bit of wash towards the general direction of the unreachable parts, to give them a hint of shadows, will work decently. If the hard to reach parts are left dark and kind of featureless, but you bring out the details of the other parts with bold colours and highlights and such, I doubt you'd notice them too much unless you prime your models stark white. IF you use a white primer, try to stab som more muted colours in there and some wash, just to darken the area a bit.
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2021 13:43
|
|