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two_beer_bishes posted:I think it's the MC because I started to investigate a mushy brake pedal on some Tundra specific forums and the general consensus seems to be a failing MC. That and the slowly decreasing amount of brake fluid in the reservoir leads me to believe that could be the culprit. I'll give everything a good cleaning and check the rear seal before ordering any parts. The slowly decreasing amount of fluid in the reservoir is expected to some extent: it's your brake pads wearing. Depending on age this could be brake hoses that are losing integrity. Get under there and look at each hose while someone stomps on the brakes.
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Jun 23, 2021 20:21
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Motronic posted:The slowly decreasing amount of fluid in the reservoir is expected to some extent: it's your brake pads wearing. yep inspect all soft lines and hard lines if its a rustbelt vehicle. Masters tend to leak at the junction where it bolts to the booster assembly. A cheap test is to pump it till the booster is depleted then hold the pedal for about 2 minutes. No pedal movement? M/C is fine. Crashes and 30-40 year old vehicles? Subaru and Volvo will fare better than average. BOF anything will be worse than average with pickups at the worst. Step one for driving an old truck is "do not crash into anything" Step two "when things go pear shaped, See Step One."
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Jun 23, 2021 22:30
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Don't trucks that old all have rotten frames and clapped out body mounts anyway? You're likely to slide cab and all into a mess of crumpled steel, glass, bones and blood.
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Jun 23, 2021 22:33
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30 year old subarus do not fare all that well in crashes
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Jun 23, 2021 22:44
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spankmeister posted:Don't trucks that old all have rotten frames and clapped out body mounts anyway? You're likely to slide cab and all into a mess of crumpled steel, glass, bones and blood. You tell me boss 
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Jun 23, 2021 22:55
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cursedshitbox posted:You tell me boss Nice
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Jun 23, 2021 23:03
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Motronic posted:The slowly decreasing amount of fluid in the reservoir is expected to some extent: it's your brake pads wearing. Took it for a drive today. The brake pedal goes to the floor without much effort. Since the primary purpose of this truck is hauling the horse, I'm thinking about just replacing the MC and the brake hoses at the same time. This thing is so important to my wife that I literally have no budget for keeping this thing running. I really don't mind throwing parts at it right now, work has finally been picking up again so I'm spending less and less time at home to work on it so fixing the issue is more important than saving money.
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Jun 24, 2021 01:49
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what’s the horse’s name? can we get a pic?
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Jun 24, 2021 02:29
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two_beer_bishes posted:Took it for a drive today. The brake pedal goes to the floor without much effort. Since the primary purpose of this truck is hauling the horse, I'm thinking about just replacing the MC and the brake hoses at the same time. This thing is so important to my wife that I literally have no budget for keeping this thing running. I really don't mind throwing parts at it right now, work has finally been picking up again so I'm spending less and less time at home to work on it so fixing the issue is more important than saving money. I mean...okay, but those are just what I think is most likely. It's not an exhaustive list of potential issues and it's faster to clean and inspect than it is to shotgun a bunch of unnecessary parts into it, regardless of whether you care how much those parts cost. But you do you.
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Jun 24, 2021 02:40
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spankmeister posted:Don't trucks that old all have rotten frames and clapped out body mounts anyway? You're likely to slide cab and all into a mess of crumpled steel, glass, bones and blood. How old? You're not wrong necessarily but it's dependent on A/S/L. Wait, just A/L.
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Jun 24, 2021 04:18
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StormDrain posted:How old? You're not wrong necessarily but it's dependent on A/S/L. Wait, just A/L. 69/yes/urmom!!!
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Jun 24, 2021 04:22
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two_beer_bishes posted:Took it for a drive today. The brake pedal goes to the floor without much effort. Since the primary purpose of this truck is hauling the horse, I'm thinking about just replacing the MC and the brake hoses at the same time. This thing is so important to my wife that I literally have no budget for keeping this thing running. I really don't mind throwing parts at it right now, work has finally been picking up again so I'm spending less and less time at home to work on it so fixing the issue is more important than saving money. Swapping out all the hoses and the MC is a fairly big job. Spend an hour cleaning and inspecting it first and watching the hoses while someone stamps on the brakes. Like everybody else says - if the MC is leaking it will very likely show up as a trail of dirt/fluid/rust below where it bolts to the booster. The leaking fluid will have stripped the paint. If the MC is showing a leak, or one of the hoses is not looking good under pressure then by all means load the parts cannon up and do it all at once as then it makes sense.
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Jun 24, 2021 09:14
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I hope this forum is alive in 200 years and someone posts in whatever this thread becomes looking for advice on fixing whatever vehicle they use to tow their car around.
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Jun 24, 2021 09:26
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VelociBacon posted:I hope this forum is alive in 200 years and someone posts in whatever this thread becomes looking for advice on fixing whatever vehicle they use to tow their car around. I hope this forum is alive in 200 years and we’re all trapped inside
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Jun 24, 2021 09:31
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Tomarse posted:Swapping out all the hoses and the MC is a fairly big job. Spend an hour cleaning and inspecting it first and watching the hoses while someone stamps on the brakes. To add to this, sometimes the leak shows up inside the cabin. I've had two cars do this - brake fluid was running down the inside of the firewall and into the carpet. It had also pooled up inside the brake booster at that point, but wasn't leaking in the engine bay.
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Jun 24, 2021 10:07
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Was doing some polishing on the cylinder head and noticed dip or what you call it next to the seat.  Seat looks thinner on that part, is it going to be problem? I don't think I did it cause I didn't use anything hard on it. But is my first time to do anything like this. Car is 1970 Saab 95 V4
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Jun 24, 2021 14:14
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Looks like there's still enough material there to do the job. I think it will be fine. Where on earth did you find a 95 though? What a fantastic car!
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Jun 24, 2021 15:03
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You guys have never steered me wrong in the past, I'll give it a good cleaning today and poke around some more.
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Jun 24, 2021 17:30
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Question, with an auto transmission is it a bad sign when it makes noise around a certain RPM level? From 1500-2k RPM my transmission on my '94 Subaru SVX sounds kind of similar to how reverse sounds in my manual Impreza, which I understand is because of straight-cut reverse gears? These cars are known for having transmission failure, although apparently it's usually duty solenoids failing rather than the gears themselves.
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Jun 24, 2021 19:12
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Mr. Wiggles posted:Looks like there's still enough material there to do the job. I think it will be fine. I thought so. Thanks I live in Finland. Still pretty uncommon car, but still there's some around and mine is the most unwanted, the 95E made only for Finnish market, 2+2 seater, the 2 extra seats are only for temporary transportation. Made so to get lower taxes. Also vinyl seats in front and no panels in the back. Bare-bones as possible. Mine never had the extra seat, it doesn't have the latches or whatever you are supposed to attach it. Was work car at Kemi airport, so I guess that's why. Sometimes think I should start shipping 95, 96, 99 and 90s to America, you can still find those in barns and lying in fields, but people don't really buy those here. They had to be specific models in great shape and cheap if you want to get rid of them.
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Jun 24, 2021 20:22
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Question, with an auto transmission is it a bad sign when it makes noise around a certain RPM level? From 1500-2k RPM my transmission on my '94 Subaru SVX sounds kind of similar to how reverse sounds in my manual Impreza, which I understand is because of straight-cut reverse gears? These cars are known for having transmission failure, although apparently it's usually duty solenoids failing rather than the gears themselves. Don't those cars have a center diff? How do you know this isn't the center diff making that sound?
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Jun 24, 2021 21:20
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I have a 2006 Mazda 3, with about 131k miles on it. It calls for 5W-20. It's not a big deal if I switch to 0w-20 right? Costco has it at half the price of autozone and it's full synthetic, which I usually don't go for. Also, any other car things I should buy from Costco?
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Jun 24, 2021 22:08
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DildenAnders posted:I have a 2006 Mazda 3, with about 131k miles on it. It calls for 5W-20. It's not a big deal if I switch to 0w-20 right? Costco has it at half the price of autozone and it's full synthetic, which I usually don't go for. Also, any other car things I should buy from Costco? However: personally I wouldn’t do this, because saving a few bucks on something that potentially could destroy your engine seems foolish.
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Jun 24, 2021 22:25
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I'd run it. Engines are designed around hot oil and that's going to be near as possible identical between the two. The thickness of "cold" 0w20 is going to be more like a "slightly warm" 5w20, as in something the engine would actually see sometimes when starting with 5w20. The way we name oils makes it seem backwards, but 0w20 is going to exist in a narrower range of actual viscosities than 5w20 does, because 0w20 will never be quite as thick.
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Jun 24, 2021 22:30
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VelociBacon posted:Don't those cars have a center diff? How do you know this isn't the center diff making that sound? Maybe it is? I guess I don’t know if it’s the transmission itself but it sounds a lot like gears. I would need to check to make sure they have a center diff, probably since they have a variable torque split, I think the only limited slip diffs are front and rear but that doesn’t preclude a center existing.
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Jun 24, 2021 22:34
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Context: Looking at options for replacing the nigh-unobtainium oil filler neck in my van, the port for which is currently plugged by a piece of PVC: Q: how hot does an engine bay get? If PVC can survive it for years, printing something in PET might be viable..
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Jun 24, 2021 22:54
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Javid posted:Context: Looking at options for replacing the nigh-unobtainium oil filler neck in my van, the port for which is currently plugged by a piece of PVC: What is the make/model/year?
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Jun 24, 2021 22:57
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92 ram van. that rubber hose is on a valve cover, where this dude here is supposed to go having to pull the doghouse to change the oil sucks a lot, is the motive behind this project.
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Jun 25, 2021 01:03
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If the major requirement is large ish diameter hose that can probably withstand a bunch of Heat, what about a piece of radiator hose?
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Jun 25, 2021 02:42
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Can rad hose handle repeated oil exposure? When I brought the problem to my NAPA they indicated it would be unsuitable
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Jun 25, 2021 03:05
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Javid posted:Can rad hose handle repeated oil exposure? When I brought the problem to my NAPA they indicated it would be unsuitable Do you mean splashes of oil on the outside of it or oil on the INSIDE of it? I wouldn't use it for either. I want to say you can use fuel line for oil/power steering fluid but please double check that info.
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Jun 25, 2021 03:19
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VelociBacon posted:Do you mean splashes of oil on the outside of it or oil on the INSIDE of it? I wouldn't use it for either. Yeah, inside. If I could throw whatever random hose in there it wouldn't still be a problem, but the end point of a lot of my ideas has been "oil will eat that" I heard (from a smarter printing person) that PETG can handle oil, which is a game changer for this problem if true + if it won't melt in the engine bay
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Jun 25, 2021 03:41
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Javid posted:Can rad hose handle repeated oil exposure? When I brought the problem to my NAPA they indicated it would be unsuitable Perhaps not. Good point. Second option: a piece of hydraulic hose of sufficient diameter. Good for high temps and oil exposure. I have drilling equipment that has hose diameters measured in multiple inches feeding pumps from tanks and that poo poo can get hit as gently caress even with the oil cooler fans running constantly. You may need to buy a minimum amount at a hydraulic store, but probably not that expensive, especially if it is not a pressure hose.
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Jun 25, 2021 03:43
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Perhaps a fill tube and maybe valve cover from a later model with the 318? I know my 01 2500 had a metal tube and an oil fill cap under the hood. Changing the air filter kind of sucked and the plugs rarely got done but oil was easy.
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Jun 25, 2021 03:49
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Javid, how big is this hose needed to be? That pvc cap says 3/4". I would pick up some hydraulic hose for that. If you have any heavy equipment shop nearby they can sort you out.
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Jun 25, 2021 03:50
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All I can access to measure is the OD of the PVC cap, which is about 1.25" I also don't know that the 3 inches of hose on there right now ISN'T rad hose, it would sure be par for the repairs I've torn out of this tub e: it also doesn't even need to be a long hose, if I could even just clamp something like this in there it'd be ten times better 
Javid fucked around with this message at 04:21 on Jun 25, 2021 |
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Jun 25, 2021 04:17
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Javid posted:All I can access to measure is the OD of the PVC cap, which is about 1.25" That jives with it being a 3/4" cap then. It's capping a rubber hose? Or a metal fitting that's busted? And the base of the thing going on it is how big? I'm ready to bet on a 3/4" hose being the solution.
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Jun 25, 2021 04:46
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there's a big hose barb* on the valve cover, and there's a tiny segment of hose clamped onto the barb at one end and the pvc cap at the other. *I don't know that whatever it's clamped onto was intended to have a hose clamped onto it, it's in the worst spot to access from either side so I've never pulled it off to be 100% clear, the pvc cap was also never meant to be used this way, and that it is still a coherent object after at least three years in there is why I have hope a 3d print might work Javid fucked around with this message at 05:16 on Jun 25, 2021 |
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Jun 25, 2021 05:12
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Javid posted:92 ram van. that rubber hose is on a valve cover, where this dude here is supposed to go 318 or 360? I can look for the filler tube around here (Phila) If not, I can probably fabricate one out of 1’ copper pipe. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 14:34 on Jun 25, 2021 |
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Jun 25, 2021 14:32
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Captain Kosmos posted:I thought so. Thanks Please post more pictures and info on your car! My dad had a 95 with the extra seats for a while when I was little. I was very upset when he sold it (though he then bought the 99T which I now have...)
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Jun 25, 2021 23:49
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