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MasterBuilder
Sep 30, 2008
Oven Wrangler

Captain Magic posted:

I don’t think so. The right arm doesn’t have any rotation afaik, it just moves up and down (elbow and shoulder) and (at the shoulder) out.

Too bad, I was hoping for a Barrett-esque pose without having to do too many modifications. Thanks.

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Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
You can do some rotation but the arms are too stubby to reach each other.

Also my day just got a lot better

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer

Spanish Manlove posted:

Also my day just got a lot better

That's neat, congrats :)

Ristolaz
Sep 29, 2005

By completely blowing off my BS you have passed the first trial

PoptartsNinja posted:

Plastic is more friendly to inexperienced modelers.

"Abaddon the Armless" probably had a lot more to do with it.


Edit: And Nidzilla. They sold tons of the plastic Carnifex kit right after it came out thanks to Nidzilla.

I collected eldar as a teenager like 20 years ago, and I had a metal avatar and a metal wraithlord. The former stayed together briefly, I dont think I ever got the latter to stay assembled.

Scandalous
Jul 16, 2009

Spanish Manlove posted:

You can do some rotation but the arms are too stubby to reach each other.

Also my day just got a lot better
That’s awesome, well earned, those dreads are fantastic. I wouldn’t be able to tell the new one apart

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


Spanish Manlove posted:

You can do some rotation but the arms are too stubby to reach each other.

Also my day just got a lot better
hell yeah that’s awesome and well deserved

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

What's everyone using for making bases? Is there like, a base kit/pack/bundle that's good for starting off of? Like something that contains different dirt/texture styles, skulls, other stuff in one box? or some suggestions for base designs that are easy?

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

jesus WEP posted:

hell yeah that’s awesome and well deserved

Thanks a lot guys. I stepped away from my phone to do a bunch of stuff at work and came back to a ton of notifications, and then that. Totally made my day.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

GreenBuckanneer posted:

What's everyone using for making bases? Is there like, a base kit/pack/bundle that's good for starting off of? Like something that contains different dirt/texture styles, skulls, other stuff in one box? or some suggestions for base designs that are easy?

Goonhammer has a bunch of articles that are pretty good and cool. I used the ideas in the beach base article to make my snow bases. Basically just "texture paste, paint over that, drybrush a color or two, add stuff, garnish"

https://www.goonhammer.com/tag/how-to-base-everything/

You can get through more than a whole army with one of these 200ml vallejo tubs. They have them in different grit sizes, but this was the first one I saw that was prime and I think will paint up well

https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Desert-Sand-Gel-200ml/dp/B005D85950/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=vallejo+texture+paint&qid=1624916264&sr=8-2

PotatoManJack
Nov 9, 2009
Decided to strip the first model I painted after picking up my paintbrush after ~10 years off. Although I didn't like the job I had done, it was more to get an idea of what stripping a model entailed.

Using methylated spirits, half a day of alternated soaking and scrubbing, I did manage to get 95% of the paint off (still slight tint on some areas, and hard to reach areas still have bits of paint), but it was definitely not worth the effort for a $4 miniature. It has made the decision for me against buying 2nd hand previously painted models to save a few bucks.

Revelation 2-13
May 13, 2010

Pillbug

GreenBuckanneer posted:

What's everyone using for making bases? Is there like, a base kit/pack/bundle that's good for starting off of? Like something that contains different dirt/texture styles, skulls, other stuff in one box? or some suggestions for base designs that are easy?

Generally I try to make my bases fit the color scheme of my army. It’s very different what works for various things, for example for my imperial fists, who are striking yellow, I use a black/dark-grey base as to not have it be too busy to distract from the models, but for my very red/mars admech, I use a red desert base, and I think it works fine. For my sisters who are metallic and grey, with single areas of bright color (kinda selective saturation like) I went with a muted grey cobble-stone, to keep with the theme. For my tau I put them on a orange sandy base, but over-crowded (jungle-esque) the base with flowers and plant leaves, cut from a cheap set of plastic aquarium plants I got of at a pet store. I read ‘fire caste’ and got inspired to make jungle tau/kroot, even though I thought tau was the last army I’d ever play.

Anyway, the simplest/cheapest is to get some dirt/sand from outside/the beach/building site/ and bake it a low heat for a while to dry it out, then smear/put some pva glue (white, like wood glue) on the base, dip it in the dirt, maybe add a few tiny stones and you’re basically good to go. You can paint it if you feel like it, but it often looks good as is. The second easiest is ‘texture paste + dry-brush’.

There are a bunch of easy to use specialized products, like Martian ironearth (not to be confused with Martian ironcrust obviously) from citadel makes a crackle-like surface and you honestly don’t need anything else. It looks very cool on its own, though add a skull and a dead looking tuft (also something you can buy in various forms) and it’s a awesome. They also make other crackle paint colors. Make sure you varnish crackle paint, it flakes really easily.

Vallejo makes some cool basing products too and they are A LOT cheaper than the GW stuff. They have a desert sand paste which is cool and can be used for a ton of stuff, painted in all kinds of colors. Give it some gloss and it looks wet and swampy for example. Their black lava is great for making all kinds of things, from black ashlands to asphalt to, well, lava stuff. Finally the amazing company ‘golden’ makes a bunch of products than are more for artists than warhammer nerds, but are very useful. They have a ‘light molding paste’ which makes the best snow bases bar none. As with Vallejo you get a giant tub for almost the same price as a tiny GW paint pot.

There are also many, many, good youtube videos on how to make simple/easy bases, though a lot of them are more involved than I want to do for a whole army. Great for unit champions/sergeants and special figures.

Cinara
Jul 15, 2007
There's not really a good all in one kit that I am aware of, and the biggest issue with a product like that would be that it would likely be absurdly overpriced for the contents. It's a huge issue when it comes to this hobby, where anything marketed directly at wargames and Warhammer especially are marked up to a massive degree. Just look at something like Martian Ironearth compared to a tub of Golden's Crackle Paste, practically the same product just with some color but at a massive price difference. Same with the Vallejo texture paste that Revelation mentioned. Not that GW products are bad but especially when it comes to the volume of required to do an army worth of bases it gets expensive fast.

I would decide on a basing scheme you want to do first, and then ask here what products would be the best way to go about that. You can also assume there will be plenty of good youtube tutorials on any scheme you could possibly want. Hell I am sure Vince has a video on almost every major basing scheme just by himself.

EDIT: On a completely different note I picked up a resin 3d printer recently and holy poo poo that was a bad move for my backlog. Easily one of the coolest for the hobby though, the quality you can print at is indistinguishable from a real mini. A game changer for creating a truly custom looking army without needing to be a master at greenstuff.

Cinara fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Jun 28, 2021

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

GreenBuckanneer posted:

What's everyone using for making bases? Is there like, a base kit/pack/bundle that's good for starting off of? Like something that contains different dirt/texture styles, skulls, other stuff in one box? or some suggestions for base designs that are easy?

There are a few kits out there (army painter does one or possibly two I think, I've seen a ww2 themed one) but they are pretty bad value tbh. DIY/hardware stores/pet stores/dollar stores are where you wanna cast your eye. Or, if you have a back yard, you could have a quick look there. Builders sand, or sand intended for fish tanks, or sand intended for... I dunno, bird stuff? will work fine. Cork coasters torn up make decent rock faces, or you could use actual rocks (similarly twigs become logs. Anything picked up from outside I'd bake for a couple of hours in the oven just to be safe, dont want any organic matter rotting under the varnish!) Wood glue is a good strong pva, popsicle sticks can be planks, toothpicks can be poles. A piece of slate smashed up makes a bunch of small pieces that work really well to scale as rocks, and tend to have flat bits suitable to glue a foot onto. Bicarbonate of soda and superglue makes a weird texture that some people like, or mix the bicarb 1:1:1 with PVA and white paint instead to get snow.

As for specially designed products, Vallejo texture paste is really good (and dont sweat what colour to get too much, it takes paint when its dry so if you dont like the colour you can paint it/wash it/whatever). GWs textures are good too, but more expensive per base. Skulls... Yeah, its the GW skulls box. Its not super cheap, but its some ridiculous number of skulls. Unless you plan on having multiple miniatures based literally sitting on Khornes throne of skulls you'll be good for years. Static grasses and flocks (and clump foliage) I'd get off ebay, you CAN make your own, but.... Its a pain in the arse, and railway dudes have been pumping this stuff out long enough that its really not worth making your own. You can get some from a model/hobby store if you dont like ebay. Scale model barbed wire can be bought by the metre.

Easiest is either sand or texture paste, a quick drybrush , a couple of rocks and maybe a grass tuft or a skull if you feel fancy (or anything else out your bits box, discarded weapon, broken machinery, whatever. Do not neglect the versatility of sprues, a little bit of cutting and its a girder protruding from the rubble, or the lip of a curb, or a step, or....). Actually, easiest is probably "buy a pack of presculpted plastic or resin bases from somewhere, and just use those", but assuming you want to do it yourself, a texture, paint, drybrush, 1-2 points of interest. Or if you want them to be fighting on a grassy field, paint the base brown, put down some PVA, glue down a rock and then dip them in some flock of the desired colour (amateur tip; two different colours look more natural, sprinkle a little of one on from a height and then dump your main colour on top. Just breaks up the colour a little).

You dont need to get everything all at once, obviously. I have a tub of assorted basing stuff that I built up over time, its got flock, static grass, some reindeer moss (which I never actually use, but it was like a pound), slate, a jar of stones from when they redid the roughcasting on my house, 2 jars of sand (one fine, one mixed texture), a tub of watch parts I bought off ebay for putting gears on bases, a couple of twigs I thought would make good scale logs, a citadel skulls box, a couple of texture pastes, a couple of metres of model railway barbed wire... I'd never use all that on one basing scheme, that would be insane. So, what sort of base do you want your guys to be on, and what do you need to make that happen?

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

GreenBuckanneer posted:

What's everyone using for making bases? Is there like, a base kit/pack/bundle that's good for starting off of? Like something that contains different dirt/texture styles, skulls, other stuff in one box? or some suggestions for base designs that are easy?

I have tubs of a few different texture mediums, but the main one I use is Liquitex Ceramic Stucco. Paint, drybrush, and wash to go for whatever ground you want.

For rocks, I just use pebbles I find in the yard or while walking the dog. Once it netted me a fossilized seashell - not the impression of one - that looked neat on a beach base.

For grass, I just have a few types of Army Painter tufts.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Thanks for all the suggestions! I've seen a few things here and there but I think the issue I'm having now is I just have no idea what I want for bases.

I picked up some 32mm Sector Imperialis when I visited my GW store (I don't know of any "hobby stores" in my entire state, besides whatever a LGS stocks up or the literal GW shop) figuring I could use those for a bunch of units but...

I've also thought about what I'd want to do for an entire army and I know myself well enough that I wouldn't want to do The Same Thing™ for an entire army, I'd get bored/annoyed/burnt out. I think instead a compromise would be to do all of one "unit" a specific base type.

Maybe the Necron Warriors have some Neon Green cracked warpstone from freshly waking up, with some glowy crystal bits, maybe another set of them are marching on some untouched grassy world, maybe another they're invading some Guard world in the snow and the HQ units are standing over some dead Space Wolves, idk.

I think going for an entire theme for the entire army is too much. I just don't know how much someone will care if everything matches, cause I know I won't exactly ever make units to fit all of that critera and I can't say I'd exactly care if it did, it's not like I'd be roleplaying with them. (I'm still trying to wink wink nudge nudge my local friends into playing warhammer, since I can trust them to actually be vaccinated)

In any case, these are some good ideas. Mostly I just wanted to understand y'alls thought process, since buying more Sector Imperialis pre-made bases is going to be way too expensive, and creating something cool seems better.

On the topic of Golden, I already have some: https://www.jerrysartarama.com/golden-gel-and-molding-paste-set I got for like :10bux: at a Mardens, which seemed useful but I don't really know how to use it.

Maybe it would be cool to use some of these to help make terrain instead? I have piles of regular (artist) acrylics of various quality, but I feel like if I'm going to work on terrain I should probably get a 3D/Resin printer instead of buying the GW stuff, though it looks nice?

I think at this point I'd just kind of have to do something and if I don't like it to start over.

Lord Ludikrous
Jun 7, 2008

Enjoy your tea...

Cranked out a couple more Necrons over the weekend.



Aniodia
Feb 23, 2016

Literally who?

After playing around with the various color schemes I'd asked for a few pages back, I think I may just end up going with a red/yellow scheme, similar to WoW blood elves. However, the red that really popped was Blood Angels Contrast Red over Vallejo GMC Gold, and while that looked great, I'd like to see if there was an easier way to get a red-gold metallic. I've looked at a couple coppers, and they just aren't red enough, and most of the metallic reds are based off of silver mica rather than gold, so I was just curious if I'd missed something, or if I'd need to keep on doing what I have been to get the color I want.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
You're going to have a hard time replicating contrast over metallic with just a metallic because contrast by design is going to layer on in varying levels of thickness.

e: you could try Marco Frisoni's technique of making your own metallic contrast paint but I feel like that's more complicated than what you're doing right now

Eej fucked around with this message at 18:17 on Jun 29, 2021

Scandalous
Jul 16, 2009
:toot:

Shoddy pics as insufficient lighting but finally finished (one of five)



This was my first attempt at basing a model and while I’m happy with how it came out the lava looks a lot better from slightly above and in brighter light

Wrr
Aug 8, 2010


Thats a good lookin base. I like it.

Aniodia
Feb 23, 2016

Literally who?

Eej posted:

You're going to have a hard time replicating contrast over metallic with just a metallic because contrast by design is going to layer on in varying levels of thickness.
I was just looking to see if there was an easier base to start from, some paint in a more obscure paint line to use as a jumping off point that I may have missed. I get that there may not be an easier way to do this, but I figure I'd at least pick the brains of better painters than I.

quote:

e: you could try Marco Frisoni's technique of making your own metallic contrast paint but I feel like that's more complicated than what you're doing right now
It sounds like it could be, but I'm still interested in seeing the proof of concept, even if it requires significantly more work. Do you happen to know which of his videos he does it in?

Mikey Purp
Sep 30, 2008

I realized it's gotten out of control. I realize I'm out of control.
Ugh it's looking like my airbrush compressor is making GBS threads the bed. I can hear air leaking from this part.



It technically still works, but because of the constant leakage the compressor is starting up every few minutes even when not in use. Does anyone with more knowledge than me know if this is fixable, or should I just go ahead and buy a new one?

Cat Face Joe
Feb 20, 2005

goth vegan crossfit mom who vapes



Can you tell precisely where it's leaking from? A new ring or some plumbers tape may be all it needs.

Revelation 2-13
May 13, 2010

Pillbug
I’m far from an expert, but could be from a bunch of different places in that general area. Do you know precisely where the leak is? If not, you can make a dish-soap/water solution, and you can brush a very small amount of it various places around the area (on joints and fittings and so on) and where it bubbles is your leak, dry it off afterwards. If it’s the white rubber washer there for example it should be fixable just by replacing or tightening it. It could be a hose that needs replacing. If it’s threading on a metal part it’s a little more difficult, but you can use gas sealant tape probably. If it’s the glass vapor trap (which I assume is underneath) you might be able to buy a replacement one, but might not be worth it. If is a weld that has opened up or a fitting come loose from the case/tank, you’re probably hosed. Some things are fixable, some things aren’t depending on how they made the thing. Might not be worth the hassle depending on how old and how much it cost.

E: just so it’s clear, don’t electrocute yourself by dousing the motor in water or anything, just a very small amount of soapy water brushed on the fittings and so on.

Revelation 2-13 fucked around with this message at 23:18 on Jun 29, 2021

Mikey Purp
Sep 30, 2008

I realized it's gotten out of control. I realize I'm out of control.
It appears to be leaking from the little brass nob thing at the top.

TheDiceMustRoll
Jul 23, 2018
I want to make own bloodbowl pitch. where start?

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

TheDiceMustRoll posted:

I want to make own bloodbowl pitch. where start?

The model train station at your local hobby store. Get some static grass. Like a lot of it in one of those big tubs from woodland scenics. While you're there, see what catches your eye for random little extras like autumn leaves or little things that will look like weeds or stones/gravel whatever man just get something cool.

Then go to the dollar store and get some poster board. Or really whatever is cheap, stiff, and large enough to make the regulation sized pitch for blood bowl.

Then some white craft paint. Cheaper the better. Also some painters tape. And some foam like would be in a pillow or an aromatherapy case

Glue the grass to your poster board. Then glue whatever the hell else you want to glue onto it to decorate it. Watch some terrain making videos on how to use static grass and other stuff.

Now's the fun part. Lightly place the painters tape on the field to make your lines. Then gently sponge on the white color to paint on the lines. Crooked is fine as it will look more authentic for blood bowl.

Really just something like that. Or you can be lame and just get a mat from Frontline Gaming that will work without all the fun parts of making realistic terrain.

Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something
I would go with a grass mat to start, at least as a base. It's a football field, so right off the bat you're looking for a uniform grass spread, so a mat solves that instantly. Then you can still do your lines, as well as surrounding bits to your liking. You can also get much larger mats, for much cheaper prices, from railroad hobby suppliers. If you're in the US, Scenery Express carries just about anything terrain related you might need.

Scenery Express grass mats

TheDiceMustRoll
Jul 23, 2018
Thanks lads. I'm looking to do the pitch, maybe stands.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

Aniodia posted:

It sounds like it could be, but I'm still interested in seeing the proof of concept, even if it requires significantly more work. Do you happen to know which of his videos he does it in?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KBc0ZuaYIPM&t=380s

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004






aaaaa as i post these im noticing like a dozen things i missed, still pretty happy with some parts of it though

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

After watching dozens of youtube videos, I think I've settled on what I want to do, for at least some of the necrons

I still haven't settled on a color scheme for the necrons, though.

Basically, I was thinking of some like neon colors underneath cracked paint, so it shows through (like that kind of fake-lava look)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_yJEH4UDro8

But I haven't resolved on a color other than like 90s neon colors:



The other thing I was thinking of is putting some transparent resin crystals on top of this, and painting underneath white to make it more glowy, cause someone said that it made them brighter.

But, I kind of want the crystals to match the color of the cracked earth underneath, as if the area they're on is coming apart and these similarly colored crystals are breaking through. I got some clear crystals, and I assume that I could do some sort of neon-transparent paint to make them glow more, and then maybe cover the crystal afterwards in gloss resin, but I don't know if that would work. I also don't know if I have the right paint even to do that.

Ultimately, this design for Necrons isn't very uncommon it seems, though I haven't seen that particular combo on youtube yet, but I was wondering what people thought of this idea or if they've done it before. I was also thinking of putting some tufts of grass here and there to help sell the planet was normal at some point.

By extension, if I can figure out a way to do this, I could do like, 10 necron warriors this design with a black base and green cracks and green glowy crystals, and another set with sand and rose cracks and rose glowy crystals, etc, which sounds cool and be varied enough to not bore me since I have 2000~ points of necrons to base...

MasterBuilder
Sep 30, 2008
Oven Wrangler
Someone with more experience with crackle paint may correct me but you may need to greenstuff sculpt the fissures around the crystals because you can't control where the cracks occur.

Doing a test base that is sectioned off in fourths and experimenting will probably give you a better idea of what works or not.

Wrr
Aug 8, 2010


Painted a fixer for Cyberpunk Red, tried out using a single main color and then doing the highlight and .... lowlight(?) based off of it. I think the jacket came out real good and the so-black-its-blue looks like some Batman poo poo.






No clue where those white specks came from or if the paint got scrapped off a bit. It bums me out cause it really takes away from it imho :(

Looking forward to posting pics of my most recent figure which I'm feeling pretty pleased with; slowly figuring this "skin" crap out.

Psyber Spine
Jan 18, 2019

Hey guys just wanted to say thank you for the help. I feel like I actually learned something with this miniature and my painting got a little better. I think the blue doesn't distract the eye as much and the red pulls the eye up to the head.


Aniodia
Feb 23, 2016

Literally who?


Cool, appreciate the link!

Scandalous
Jul 16, 2009

Wrr posted:

Thats a good lookin base. I like it.
Thank you! It didn’t really come out like expected. I did some tests based on what I had available:



1 and 2 were painted lava colours, coated in a varnish, and left to dry naturally overnight. They produced the medium sized cracks I was expecting.

3 and 4 had the same treatment but were blasted with a hairdryer. What I’d read suggested that would cause even bigger cracks, but what actually happened was very fine cracking you see on the finished model.

I’ve no idea why that happened - it’s contrary to what tutorials suggest, and I must have done something wrong but I’m not sure what.

Next test is PVA, I had to wait to requisition it from the 3-year old

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer

Scandalous posted:

Thank you! It didn’t really come out like expected. I did some tests based on what I had available:



1 and 2 were painted lava colours, coated in a varnish, and left to dry naturally overnight. They produced the medium sized cracks I was expecting.

3 and 4 had the same treatment but were blasted with a hairdryer. What I’d read suggested that would cause even bigger cracks, but what actually happened was very fine cracking you see on the finished model.

I’ve no idea why that happened - it’s contrary to what tutorials suggest, and I must have done something wrong but I’m not sure what.

Next test is PVA, I had to wait to requisition it from the 3-year old
The size of the cracks depends, at least partially, on how thick a layer you smear on. A thicker layer will produce bigger cracks than a thin layer, and it does look like you put a lot more on base 1 and 2.

TotalHell
Feb 22, 2005

Roman Reigns fights CM Punk in fantasy warld. Lotsa violins, so littl kids cant red it.


X-postin from the Oath thread:

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Tenchrono
Jun 2, 2011


For those of you that do your primer / basecoat with lowes or home depot spray, whats the best brand you’ve used so far? I’ve heard a lot about Krylon.

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