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actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

nm posted:

Whatup, lazy PO bud

Thankfully this is in my bedroom so I don't really care that much, but FFS.

drat that's way worse than mine, i should've left it alone!

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devmd01
Mar 7, 2006

Elektronik
Supersonik

Yooper posted:

I'll 2nd the Speed Queen. I've got the washing machine and we're really happy with it. Using the oxy clean also made a huge difference with our ridiculous water.

3rd. Plus if you get lucky they will be running a warranty extension to ten years when you buy.

FCKGW
May 21, 2006

Speed Queens suck down a ridiculous amount of water so if you’re in an area with high water prices or care about that sort of thing keep that in mind.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

FCKGW posted:

Speed Queens suck down a ridiculous amount of water so if you’re in an area with high water prices or care about that sort of thing keep that in mind.

Yeah, Speed Queens are indeed good but yeah.....I'm on well and septic so it's cheaper in the log run to keep HE machines running. For a point of reference I've got LGs. The quality is not great. Start button on the washer is failing and I had to tear the entire drum out of the dryer to replace the wheels it runs on because all of the bearings failed and it had a minor internal lint fire (which was contained and didn't destroy anything). Overall the stuff is just pretty disappointing and cheaply built, but the parts are readily available.

Bioshuffle
Feb 10, 2011

No good deed goes unpunished

I got the Maytag Commercial pair simply because it was on sale while the Speed Queens weren't. While it washes the poo poo out of everything, those agitators will also take a more noticeable toll on your clothes if you don't use a proper settings, so be warned!

Also, if you ever wash towels or bulky things, you better drat well make sure the load is balanced out, or you'll come back to a murder scene in your laundry room.

DoubleT2172
Sep 24, 2007

Bioshuffle posted:

I got the Maytag Commercial pair simply because it was on sale while the Speed Queens weren't. While it washes the poo poo out of everything, those agitators will also take a more noticeable toll on your clothes if you don't use a proper settings, so be warned!

Also, if you ever wash towels or bulky things, you better drat well make sure the load is balanced out, or you'll come back to a murder scene in your laundry room.

Do you have any issues with dryer sheets catching on the bottom of the lint trap? I got these around a month ago and it's basically guaranteed a dryer sheet I put in will get caught at the bottom of the lint trap holding unit and be useless

skipdogg
Nov 29, 2004
Resident SRT-4 Expert

leper khan posted:

Closing on a house tonight and the previous owner took their washer/dryer. What's the good one to get, I assume there are some Opinions around here given what I've seen on dish washers.

I totally recognize Speed Queen and Maytag Commercial are the most bulletproof buy it once and don't worry about it washing machines available, but I went with a front load washer.

I live in an area with a higher than average cost of water. Water usage is a factor I considered, coupled with the amount of laundry we do. We probably do 10 loads a week maybe. I also find front loaders to be more gentle on clothes.

I've got 2 schools of thought on this when it comes to front loaders

1) Buy the most basic front load set you can find. We had a Frigidaire Affinity (made by Electrolux) set that ran for 8 1/2 years, and we probably did over 4,000 loads of laundry in without any issues at all. They still worked fine when we replaced them, but you could tell the suspension in the washer was getting a little tired. We paid 900 bucks for the set back in 2010 and definitely got our money worth. These were basic units, no fancy steam settings, wifi, smart detergent dispenser, etc. I'm not exaggerating on how much we used them. Infants and toddlers go through a ton of clothing. We easily did 2 loads of laundry a day when the kids were smaller.

2) Get the longest warranty possible and hope nothing breaks. We bought a the Samsung Flex washer and dryer set from Costco a little over 3 years ago, and with the extended Costco Warranty, Squaretrade, and Citi Costco card, we have a total of 7 years of warranty coverage. It's a pretty cool washer and dryer system, and we use the top tiny washer more than we thought between covid masks, kids sports uniforms, and other small/delicate loads. It has WiFi, steam, and all sorts of fancy settings, so I'm lucky nothing has broken yet, and I hope the warranty comes through if it does. I don't recommend them though, Samsung appliance quality is spotty at best, and I feel like we've just been lucky so far. It is pretty neat to get a phone alert when a load is finished though.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Enos Cabell posted:

I watched the series finale of Bosch last night, and just as the credits started to roll my Bosch dishwasher chimed to let me know it was done. A blessed day.

Did you shoot it with your printer gun for making a noise?

PageMaster
Nov 4, 2009

amethystbliss posted:

Please share your wisdom! What are the different ways they were ruinous? Eventually we want to gut the bathroom off of our primary bedroom which will include retiling a walk in shower and removing tub surround in favor of a stand alone tub.

I can't say wisdom because i am not an expert and everything I did learn was from digging out my old school books and YouTube (both similarly reliable sources now); ours aren't exactly ruinous, but we stopped work a lot and had changes/corrections during that I think might have been a problem. We hot mopped our pans but two glass installers wanted to anchor the glass down with 2" screws which we nixed so they didn't puncture the waterproofing on the curbs. One contractor did redgard for the walls, which makes them waterproof, but didn't slope the niches so water could sit on them. The other did a vapor retarder paper and then floated the entire wall with mortar, which technically isn't waterproof but super sloped the niches so no water would stay on the wall anyways. No idea which method is better since they both said theirs was (both are probably acceptable). We also had to correct some flat slopes on the floor pans during install as well. A lot of what we looked for were NO HOLES in any waterproofing, like the redgard application if some spots were missed or thin, and no flat spots. No one argued when we asked about these and they just fixed it.

Now one pan has no grout cracks, but doesn't dry in the very corner and one spot in the middle so they're pulling up the tiles there to reslope with more mortar (we know there's an inch and a half of mortar above the hot mop so they 'shouldn't' get anywhere close to puncturing). The other shower has eighth-inch cracks in some areas of the grout but dries out completely everywhere so I'm guessing I can just apply some dry-mix grout there. Apparently very few things in the shower are actually waterproof, and the tile, grout, and mortar all absorb water so everything needs to be sloped perfectly towards weep holes in your drain so the water under the tiles eventually drains there instead of expanding everywhere through the grout and the thinset under the tiles (including up your walls or pan curb); even then both contractors had different opinions on putting pebbles surrounding the drain so mortar didn't fill the weep holes.

If you want to spend hours watching tile shower failures with explanations why check out starrtile and tilecoach on YouTube. A lot of questions I asked that led to my contractors deciding to make changes came up just from watching those.

Also take pictures of everything everyday so you have records to reference if you every need to do a consult or a repair so you can see exactly how it was built.

hypnophant
Oct 19, 2012
Re: Speed Queen, this appliance dealer found front-load to have a slightly lower rate of service calls than top loaders, and Speed Queens to be the worst (highest service call rate) of the top loaders. At the same time the top loaders use 2-3 times as much water and energy to wash a load, do more damage to clothes due to the agitator, and don’t get clothes any cleaner (possible exception for heavily soiled work clothes.) And the Classic model skirts EPA regulations with a normal cycle that doesn’t clean well, and heavy duty and permanent press cycles that use huge amounts of hot water. Over ten years you’ll spend a lot more on water and energy than you would on repairing a more efficient machine, even if you don’t believe the call rate statistics are representative, but maybe that’s worth it to you to avoid being mildly inconvenienced.

nm
Jan 28, 2008

"I saw Minos the Space Judge holding a golden sceptre and passing sentence upon the Martians. There he presided, and around him the noble Space Prosecutors sought the firm justice of space law."

Motronic posted:

Yeah, Speed Queens are indeed good but yeah.....I'm on well and septic so it's cheaper in the log run to keep HE machines running. For a point of reference I've got LGs. The quality is not great. Start button on the washer is failing and I had to tear the entire drum out of the dryer to replace the wheels it runs on because all of the bearings failed and it had a minor internal lint fire (which was contained and didn't destroy anything). Overall the stuff is just pretty disappointing and cheaply built, but the parts are readily available.

The LGs get super moldy, even more than most front loaders. It's also a pain in the dick to replace the seal on some of them (mine required a pretty significant disassembly but some can be done from the front if you buy an expensive tool). Per an appliance repair guy I spoke to, if you don't want speed queens (apparently the new front loaders don't break but the old ones do), he says just go with Whirlpool (as maytags are exactly the same now).

Epitope
Nov 27, 2006

Grimey Drawer

PageMaster posted:

I can't say wisdom because i am not an expert and everything I did learn was from digging out my old school books and YouTube (both similarly reliable sources now); ours aren't exactly ruinous, but we stopped work a lot and had changes/corrections during that I think might have been a problem. We hot mopped our pans but two glass installers wanted to anchor the glass down with 2" screws which we nixed so they didn't puncture the waterproofing on the curbs. One contractor did redgard for the walls, which makes them waterproof, but didn't slope the niches so water could sit on them. The other did a vapor retarder paper and then floated the entire wall with mortar, which technically isn't waterproof but super sloped the niches so no water would stay on the wall anyways. No idea which method is better since they both said theirs was (both are probably acceptable). We also had to correct some flat slopes on the floor pans during install as well. A lot of what we looked for were NO HOLES in any waterproofing, like the redgard application if some spots were missed or thin, and no flat spots. No one argued when we asked about these and they just fixed it.

Now one pan has no grout cracks, but doesn't dry in the very corner and one spot in the middle so they're pulling up the tiles there to reslope with more mortar (we know there's an inch and a half of mortar above the hot mop so they 'shouldn't' get anywhere close to puncturing). The other shower has eighth-inch cracks in some areas of the grout but dries out completely everywhere so I'm guessing I can just apply some dry-mix grout there. Apparently very few things in the shower are actually waterproof, and the tile, grout, and mortar all absorb water so everything needs to be sloped perfectly towards weep holes in your drain so the water under the tiles eventually drains there instead of expanding everywhere through the grout and the thinset under the tiles (including up your walls or pan curb); even then both contractors had different opinions on putting pebbles surrounding the drain so mortar didn't fill the weep holes.

If you want to spend hours watching tile shower failures with explanations why check out starrtile and tilecoach on YouTube. A lot of questions I asked that led to my contractors deciding to make changes came up just from watching those.

Also take pictures of everything everyday so you have records to reference if you every need to do a consult or a repair so you can see exactly how it was built.

This is good stuff, thank you.

One rental we lived in had a window in the shower. It was a super pleasant showering experience, but uh oh, water is leaking out the window! "Hey landlord, there's an issue here, you want me to slap some more caulk on there or you wanna do more?" "Ah just slap some caulk on." Renting can be a lot less stressful

~Coxy
Dec 9, 2003

R.I.P. Inter-OS Sass - b.2000AD d.2003AD

hypnophant posted:

Re: Speed Queen, this appliance dealer found front-load to have a slightly lower rate of service calls than top loaders, and Speed Queens to be the worst (highest service call rate) of the top loaders. At the same time the top loaders use 2-3 times as much water and energy to wash a load, do more damage to clothes due to the agitator, and don’t get clothes any cleaner (possible exception for heavily soiled work clothes.) And the Classic model skirts EPA regulations with a normal cycle that doesn’t clean well, and heavy duty and permanent press cycles that use huge amounts of hot water. Over ten years you’ll spend a lot more on water and energy than you would on repairing a more efficient machine, even if you don’t believe the call rate statistics are representative, but maybe that’s worth it to you to avoid being mildly inconvenienced.

Front loaders take way too long to complete a cycle.
I have no idea how anybody lives with one unless they only have a single load per week.

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

~Coxy posted:

Front loaders take way too long to complete a cycle.
I have no idea how anybody lives with one unless they only have a single load per week.

Maybe my laundry routine is different, but time to complete a cycle is not really that relevant to me? I don't wait until I have no clean clothes to do laundry and/or stand around waiting for it to finish, I go off and do other poo poo; whether it takes 30 minutes, an hour, or three hours doesn't really make much of a material difference...

BigPaddy
Jun 30, 2008

That night we performed the rite and opened the gate.
Halfway through, I went to fix us both a coke float.
By the time I got back, he'd gone insane.
Plus, he'd left the gate open and there was evil everywhere.


I have a large Samsung front loader and do a couple of loads a week. It is fine, takes like 45 minutes to do a cycle.

Note this is a washing machine not a dishwasher no steppu on me!

corgski
Feb 6, 2007

Silly goose, you're here forever.

What should the washing machine cult be, front loaders vs top loaders?

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Cult of front load.

rdb
Jul 8, 2002
chicken mctesticles?
Man, this thread reminded me. I bought a set of speed queen front loaders. They have been sitting in the store waiting on my house to be complete for like 8 months. I ordered the FF7, the matching gas dryer plus pedestals. I couldn’t find a single review other than whats on speed queens website - and they are newer models so who cares how they are in the first couple weeks. Going to hope for the best here because they were fairly expensive compared to everything else.

I liked my LG top loaders, the cycle is slow compared to a cheap white top load washer but they were effective enough and fairly efficient. No issues in the 7 years I owned them.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
Washers and dryers should take roughly the same amount of time, and since we dry on low heat most of the time it takes 40-60 minutes to dry. Any faster in the washer is just more time for the clothes to sit there wet. We do probably 5 loads a week? Maybe 7 if we let it get really desperate.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

~Coxy posted:

Front loaders take way too long to complete a cycle.
I have no idea how anybody lives with one unless they only have a single load per week.

It's not really relevant depending on how you do your laundry. If you do it like a mad rush all at once then sure, it's a problem.

Same deal with modern HE dishwashers. They take a very long time. It's a trade-off and it's completely workable for most people. You may just need to change your expectations/routine. But it's not all that hard to do.

H110Hawk posted:

Washers and dryers should take roughly the same amount of time, and since we dry on low heat most of the time it takes 40-60 minutes to dry. Any faster in the washer is just more time for the clothes to sit there wet. We do probably 5 loads a week? Maybe 7 if we let it get really desperate.

Also this......My front loader is done 10-15 minutes before a load of clothes are dry. Unless I turn it on super scald/sanitize cycle which means it's not done for 15-30 minutes after the dryer.

nm
Jan 28, 2008

"I saw Minos the Space Judge holding a golden sceptre and passing sentence upon the Martians. There he presided, and around him the noble Space Prosecutors sought the firm justice of space law."

~Coxy posted:

Front loaders take way too long to complete a cycle.
I have no idea how anybody lives with one unless they only have a single load per week.

My LG front loader seems to take about the same time as my Maytag toploader.

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000


Ultra Carp
I have been doing drywall for weeks. my god. the dust. the dust

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
Wet sand or use sander with a vacuum (with hepa filtration). Or git gud and need to sand less.

Wet sanding is really viable though with a specific wet sanding sponge, but I wouldn't want to do an entire basement or something. For spot repairs it's great.

Qwijib0
Apr 10, 2007

Who needs on-field skills when you can dance like this?

Fun Shoe
My Kenmore branded LG front loader takes about 75 minutes a cold clean auto cycle which is still plenty short enough to get a couple loads through on laundry day, even with not being fastidious about getting the next load in there ASAP.

Going on 10 years old, no mold issues, only had to replace a leaking solenoid. A+ cleaning would buy again.

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000


Ultra Carp

NomNomNom posted:

Wet sand or use sander with a vacuum (with hepa filtration). Or git gud and need to sand less.

Wet sanding is really viable though with a specific wet sanding sponge, but I wouldn't want to do an entire basement or something. For spot repairs it's great.

It is a whole basement, so I'm kinda stuck there. My mudding technique is improving. I've watched a lot of "vancouver carpenter" on youtube.

I got a sander with vacuum attachment (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00097D2K4) but when I used it it sucked the sanding screen down to the wall so hard that it was leaving deep gouges in the surface, so I abandoned it wand went back to the hand sander. I even tried a really fine 180 grit sanding screen with it, so that was disappointing.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

This isn't great, and it shock your hand from the static electricity when the vacuum is hooked up (lol - I wear a rubber glove) but it's cheap and it works. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KL4N25V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Captain Organ
Sep 9, 2004
cooter. snooper.
We bit the bullet at our new house and bought the Miele W1/T1 front load set, and have been largely very happy with them. The issues we have had are that the auto dispensing detergent canisters are a ticking time bomb, in that if you go long enough without using them (and not running the cleaning cycle) the lines will clog (rendering them useless and adding an annoying set of button presses to the beginning of every load, but not so annoying that we've called the repair guy). They are on the smaller side, but I love the heat pump dryer and not having to worry about cleaning duct out or punching another hole in the wall to vent it. I expect the Bosch 800 dryers are also nice.

Captain Organ fucked around with this message at 21:14 on Jul 1, 2021

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000


Ultra Carp

Motronic posted:

This isn't great, and it shock your hand from the static electricity when the vacuum is hooked up (lol - I wear a rubber glove) but it's cheap and it works. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KL4N25V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks for the recommendation, I'll give it a shot

BigPaddy
Jun 30, 2008

That night we performed the rite and opened the gate.
Halfway through, I went to fix us both a coke float.
By the time I got back, he'd gone insane.
Plus, he'd left the gate open and there was evil everywhere.


Amazon Prime Day reverse osmosis system installed.



Now for it to leak everywhere.

falz
Jan 29, 2005

01100110 01100001 01101100 01111010

Vim Fuego posted:

I have been doing drywall for weeks. my god. the dust. the dust
This is one of the few things i will never do. Well I mean i've done smaller things - patches, and even removing a door, but an entire room/basement? no way. I'd pay some dude on stilts to come in and do it in a day or whatever.

Canned Sunshine
Nov 20, 2005

CAUTION: POST QUALITY UNDER CONSTRUCTION



God dammit, I was all set to go with a LG front loader now, and then I saw this...


nm posted:

The LGs get super moldy, even more than most front loaders. It's also a pain in the dick to replace the seal on some of them (mine required a pretty significant disassembly but some can be done from the front if you buy an expensive tool). Per an appliance repair guy I spoke to, if you don't want speed queens (apparently the new front loaders don't break but the old ones do), he says just go with Whirlpool (as maytags are exactly the same now).

which got me thinking I should go with the Whirlpool model I found, only to then see...


Qwijib0 posted:

My Kenmore branded LG front loader takes about 75 minutes a cold clean auto cycle which is still plenty short enough to get a couple loads through on laundry day, even with not being fastidious about getting the next load in there ASAP.

Going on 10 years old, no mold issues, only had to replace a leaking solenoid. A+ cleaning would buy again.


So now I can't decide if I'm back on the LG train or just going to go with the Whirlpool. gently caress Maytag though, since getting to the pump filter should not require nearly the machine disassembly that Maytags now seem to require.

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


BigPaddy posted:

Amazon Prime Day reverse osmosis system installed.



Now for it to leak everywhere.

I've got the same unit, installed about 4 months ago. Solid so far. It takes my 2500 ppm water and brings it to 100 or so.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Motronic posted:

This isn't great, and it shock your hand from the static electricity when the vacuum is hooked up (lol - I wear a rubber glove) but it's cheap and it works. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KL4N25V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

100% wear gloves when doing this. My Ryobi cordless and a shop vac was shocking the poo poo out of me due to the static.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe
Had a handyman over yesterday. Among a few non-electrical things, he replaced a ballast in my bathroom. Two bulb fluor. I noticed last night it started to flicker so I just turned it off.

This morning I turned it on and it started to smoke and smell like burned ozone/whatever-is-in-fluorescent bulbs.

Turned everything off at the breaker and took the bulbs down and noticed one of the two did this (also this was *not* the bulb flickering yesterday if that helps):





He'll be back this morning (and I'll obviously get an electrician to finish this part of the job).

Did something get reversed?

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.
Uh, you can wire ballasts different ways depending on how they're built, but I'm pretty sure that's not one of them.

Looks like the lamps are wired in series? I don't know of any ballast where you can do that, but I've only wired a few. Might also be something else weird going on depending on what kind of tombstones those are.

Do you have the installation manual for the ballast, or a part number, or some other way to check the wiring diagram? That's about the only way you can know for sure (until one of the electrician goons swing by, who will probably know exactly what's wrong).

edit: IMO don't let this clown do anything else to it. This is why most jurisdictions require seemingly-basic stuff to be done by licensed electricians. If he insists on fixing it, tell him to sub it out to an electrician.

DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 14:37 on Jul 2, 2021

skipdogg
Nov 29, 2004
Resident SRT-4 Expert

SourKraut posted:

God dammit, I was all set to go with a LG front loader now, and then I saw this...

which got me thinking I should go with the Whirlpool model I found, only to then see...

So now I can't decide if I'm back on the LG train or just going to go with the Whirlpool. gently caress Maytag though, since getting to the pump filter should not require nearly the machine disassembly that Maytags now seem to require.

I wouldn't worry about mold in the gasket too much anymore. It's a known issue, and if you just leave the washer door open after you're done using it, it's pretty much a non issue. Some folks go as far as keeping an old dish towel in the laundry room and wipe the gasket out when you're done using it, which takes like 2 seconds. We just leave the door open, and our Samsung bitches at us every 20 or 30 loads to run a self cleaning cycle. The self clean lasts 4 hours though, so we run that overnight.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

DaveSauce posted:

Uh, you can wire ballasts different ways depending on how they're built, but I'm pretty sure that's not one of them.

Looks like the lamps are wired in series? I don't know of any ballast where you can do that, but I've only wired a few. Might also be something else weird going on depending on what kind of tombstones those are.

Do you have the installation manual for the ballast, or a part number, or some other way to check the wiring diagram? That's about the only way you can know for sure (until one of the electrician goons swing by, who will probably know exactly what's wrong).

edit: IMO don't let this clown do anything else to it. This is why most jurisdictions require seemingly-basic stuff to be done by licensed electricians. If he insists on fixing it, tell him to sub it out to an electrician.

Yeah he won't be touching anything else electrically.

I don't have the manual for the ballast or anything, he just bought it from Lowes and brought it (it wasn't in a box or anything).

There already was a ballast there so I ~*~assumed!~*~ it was as easy as rewiring it just like the old one was from the previous wires. Like, it should be fairly impossible to gently caress up. Geesh.

edit: also sorry for the not great pic of the ballast - it's high up and deep in this recessed compartment so holding the phone and light and leaning over the vanity was all a little precarious.

Blowjob Overtime
Apr 6, 2008

Steeeeriiiiiiiiike twooooooo!

We got a new roof put on last year, covered by insurance because of a storm late in 2019:


Why is that noteworthy now? Well we just recently realized the contractor who did it missed a *slight* detail on the underside of where those two roof sections meet:


That goes all the way down to the eave on the back of the house. The hole seems glaring there, but is only visible from the ground from one small area of the yard we never go to, so we never noticed it. Thankfully someone decided to give us a hand in becoming aware of it:


To the contractor's credit, I texted the PM we dealt with those first two pictures and said I assume it got missed because it was starting to rain as they were finishing up and they were in a hurry. Even though it has been a year and we signed off on everything, he had someone out to cover it yesterday.

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.

BonoMan posted:

Yeah he won't be touching anything else electrically.

I don't have the manual for the ballast or anything, he just bought it from Lowes and brought it (it wasn't in a box or anything).

There already was a ballast there so I ~*~assumed!~*~ it was as easy as rewiring it just like the old one was from the previous wires. Like, it should be fairly impossible to gently caress up. Geesh.

edit: also sorry for the not great pic of the ballast - it's high up and deep in this recessed compartment so holding the phone and light and leaning over the vanity was all a little precarious.

It should be easy for someone who knows what they're doing, but it's easy to gently caress up if you don't. There are a few details that aren't quite obvious if you don't know what to look for, so you can't just grab any ballast and wire it in 1:1. I mean, if you buy the correct ballast then yes, it's an easy swap, but I'm guessing dude just grabbed the cheapest thing that said "ballast" and shoehorned it in.

One thing that's weirding me out is every ballast I've seen has the label visible once installed. Like, the side facing you should have a bigass sticker that has brand, model, specs, wiring diagram, etc. on it. So that's another red flag there...

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Canned Sunshine
Nov 20, 2005

CAUTION: POST QUALITY UNDER CONSTRUCTION



Blowjob Overtime posted:

We got a new roof put on last year, covered by insurance because of a storm late in 2019:


Why is that noteworthy now? Well we just recently realized the contractor who did it missed a *slight* detail on the underside of where those two roof sections meet:


That goes all the way down to the eave on the back of the house. The hole seems glaring there, but is only visible from the ground from one small area of the yard we never go to, so we never noticed it. Thankfully someone decided to give us a hand in becoming aware of it:


To the contractor's credit, I texted the PM we dealt with those first two pictures and said I assume it got missed because it was starting to rain as they were finishing up and they were in a hurry. Even though it has been a year and we signed off on everything, he had someone out to cover it yesterday.

Is that a bear arm?

Edit: I guess given the size, more probably a racoon or something similar in size?

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