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StormDrain posted:Pile some Harbor freight moving blankets on the car and put a tarp on it. Would advise against this as it'll trap moisture and create corrosion and mold issues and whatnot.
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Jun 29, 2021 23:31
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Any tips about searching for good independent mechanics?
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Jun 30, 2021 00:10
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i've had good results searching for "mechanic" on my local subreddit
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Jun 30, 2021 00:15
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Ornery and Hornery posted:Any tips about searching for good independent mechanics? Word of mouth, trial and error. When you find a shop you like, stick with them.
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Jun 30, 2021 00:19
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I want to get rid of a junk car. It was owned by my grandpa until he died in 2015. No change in title has been made, its been sitting on a lawn since. Since there is no paperwork for the car, can I just have it towed away for salvage without any issue?
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Jun 30, 2021 00:22
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Gaj posted:I want to get rid of a junk car. It was owned by my grandpa until he died in 2015. No change in title has been made, its been sitting on a lawn since. Since there is no paperwork for the car, can I just have it towed away for salvage without any issue? You'll have to transfer the title to your own name, generally. Selling it for salvage is still selling it and the junk yard has to have the title themselves. If it's inherited, there's probably a form at your DMV or title office that will get it transferred for free or a nominal fee, without any sales tax.
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Jun 30, 2021 00:35
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in actual experience, I've had "doesn't run but would be fixable if everyone with a stake didn't have a much better car already" vehicles removed at no cost by salvagers who were willing to deal with the title paperwork. this is probably not the case in places like california, good luck there are also charities that will remove a car as a donation, maybe? how much of a turd is it?
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Jun 30, 2021 00:44
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Gaj posted:I want to get rid of a junk car. It was owned by my grandpa until he died in 2015. No change in title has been made, its been sitting on a lawn since. Since there is no paperwork for the car, can I just have it towed away for salvage without any issue? What kind of car is it, and where are you?
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Jun 30, 2021 01:14
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For the last 3 posts Its a 2013 Ford Focus, with all original fluids and tires, upstate NY. Lichen is growing on the tires, the gps screen doesnt boot up. I have no paper work besides my grandfathers death cert, the car papers are in the wind. Ill probably just have cars for kids or someone take it but I just wanna get rid of it despite my father thinking that it will "appreciate in value" Gaj fucked around with this message at 01:32 on Jun 30, 2021 |
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Jun 30, 2021 01:30
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Will a charity or any other service even take a car without title showing you own it? What's stopping you from stealing a car, using it, then scrapping it for more money? I think I had a totaled car with no comprehensive insurance towed away here and they asked for proof of ownership.
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Jun 30, 2021 01:35
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Here's a PDF for the process from the State of New York. https://dmv.ny.gov/forms/mv843.pdf If you have questions you could probably call someone or go in, when I had to salvage/rebuilt title my car the person at the DMV was super helpful.
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Jun 30, 2021 01:41
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Inner Light posted:Will a charity or any other service even take a car without title showing you own it? What's stopping you from stealing a car, using it, then scrapping it for more money? You can request a duplicate title from your local DMV or title office or whatever your local authorities have set up. You can then use that to do the title transfers necessary. Your problem is solvable, it's just going to take some effort.
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Jun 30, 2021 01:44
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So I think the plan is with my grandpas death cert I need to: Request copy of title Transfer title to me Then just give car away
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Jun 30, 2021 01:49
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Gaj posted:So I think the plan is with my grandpas death cert I need to: Or sell it, or whatever. You can't do anything with it until it's legally yours, is the problem.
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Jun 30, 2021 01:50
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spankmeister posted:Would advise against this as it'll trap moisture and create corrosion and mold issues and whatnot. In the duration of a hail storm they are trying to protect against?
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Jun 30, 2021 01:52
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Yeah, this would be just a thing if I'm going to be out of town for a day or if the weather is bad. IDGAF about my other car, it's a salvage title Impreza with 220k miles, it can be ugly as hell and I won't care. And also I can get that windshield replaced for like $130 rather than $950 after labor.
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Jun 30, 2021 03:10
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I swear I saw a Facebook ad with some inflatable things that look like the cushions they land space capsules on. edit: well kinda: https://hailprotector.com/ edit 2: I think this is the one I saw an ad for. Annoyingly it doesn't have the SVX in the menu https://hailsuit.com/ No idea how good they are 
Kia Soul Enthusias fucked around with this message at 03:30 on Jun 30, 2021 |
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Jun 30, 2021 03:26
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Best tool/device/etc for bleeding my brakes myself (no helper). I seem to remember something with a check valve, speed bleeders? Do they work well? If it matters, this project will install a lot of new brake line, two more master cylinders, etc. So it's more like a drain and fill, not just chasing out a few air bubbles.
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Jun 30, 2021 05:20
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Can't get answer out of local Saab guys. Can I just grind and polish these back to smoot? 
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Jun 30, 2021 08:20
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Ha ha, nobody wants to commit one way or the other on whether it's repairable. You could tell me it came out of an old tractor or maybe a steam engine and that it runs perfectly fine, and I'd believe you. Or you could tell me it was dug out of a bog and butchered with a flap disk, and I would also believe you. What's a good one look like?
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Jun 30, 2021 21:04
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ryanrs posted:Best tool/device/etc for bleeding my brakes myself (no helper). I seem to remember something with a check valve, speed bleeders? Do they work well? They're my favorite option for brake bleeding and I've tried just about every method at least once. Captain Kosmos posted:Can't get answer out of local Saab guys. Can I just grind and polish these back to smoot? How expensive / hard to source are new valves? The stem and sealing surface both look serviceable so if new ones are prohibitively expensive I'd probably send it. If they're easy and cheap to get, I'd replace them for fear that the surface facing the combustion chamber would potentially become full of hot spots / carbon would cling onto those ridges on the backside of the valve.
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Jun 30, 2021 21:22
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i have an EFI outboard motor that has a heat soak/vapor lock issue. it runs like a champ until it gets to operating temperature and then heat soaks when off (30-60 min). then it exhibits classic vapor lock symptoms (rough idle, no power, stumbles & dies). i've proven that it's VL by taking a ~2 oz. chunk of ice and melting it against the vapor separator & fuel cooler (a part of the fuel lines downstream of the EFI pump) and curing the above symptoms immediately. the motor then ran like a scalded baboon for another 1+hr. online searches seem to indicate that this is a common problem with this particular make/model. no common solutions seem to be in evidence online. the mechanic i use is at a loss. i'm thinking i'll just carry a few cans of dry cooling spray with me and continue to use the thing. i've also read about fuel additives to change the boiling point of the fuel upwards a few degrees. can anyone weigh in on other options?
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Jun 30, 2021 21:47
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ryanrs posted:Best tool/device/etc for bleeding my brakes myself (no helper). I seem to remember something with a check valve, speed bleeders? Do they work well? Speed bleeders are the way to go for solo bleeding. Or even with somebody else pumping and you watching.
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Jun 30, 2021 22:08
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opengl128 posted:Speed bleeders are the way to go for solo bleeding. Or even with somebody else pumping and you watching. I'm still on team Motive/pressure bleeding. This is particularly helpful for clutches and any brake master/clutch master/clutch slave replacements.
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Jun 30, 2021 22:37
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Motronic posted:I'm still on team Motive/pressure bleeding. This is particularly helpful for clutches and any brake master/clutch master/clutch slave replacements. Yeah those look good from what I've seen, haven't had a chance to try them. My only other experience (other than the old standby- cracking bleeders while somebody pumps) is those hand vacuum pumps at the bleeder, which I never ever ever got to do anything worth a drat.
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Jun 30, 2021 23:52
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A previous car of mine had opposing piston brakes + stainless braided lines and they felt incredible, not the strength which was also great but specifically the pedal feel was superb. It was short throw, very direct feeling with a very linear increase in braking power with braking force on the pedal, and not spongy in any way. I now have a more boring car (07 GTI) with the typical single piston disc brakes front and back, and it has great stopping force but the pedal throw like most other cars is quite long, spongy even with a good bleed, and indirect feeling. How much of the 'feeling' I enjoyed in the previous car was from the stainless braided lines vs the master cylinder vs the opposing piston calipers? I intuit that most of the feeling was from the caliper design with the opposed pistons which required maybe less overall fluid displacement and thus less pedal throw. Has anyone here replaced their brake lines with stainless braided ones? Did you notice any difference at all?
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Jun 30, 2021 23:52
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Motronic posted:I'm still on team Motive/pressure bleeding. This is particularly helpful for clutches and any brake master/clutch master/clutch slave replacements. The pressure bleeder gets my full endorsement as well. Speed bleeders and vacuum bleeders both rely on your bleeder threads to seal while open slightly , and I've never had one that met the challenge. Pressure has worked in every car I've ever done.
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Jul 1, 2021 00:05
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spankmeister posted:Would advise against this as it'll trap moisture and create corrosion and mold issues and whatnot. You're right for long term storage. I meant in an oh poo poo it's about to storm situation.
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Jul 1, 2021 00:06
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opengl128 posted:Yeah those look good from what I've seen, haven't had a chance to try them. My only other experience (other than the old standby- cracking bleeders while somebody pumps) is those hand vacuum pumps at the bleeder, which I never ever ever got to do anything worth a drat. Big problem with the vacuum bleeders is drawing air. When I have used them I just pack grease around the bleeder threads before I crack it open and it seems to make them work pretty well. I still can't get the same brake pedal/clutch feel that I get out of a pressure bleeder. And yes, pressure bleeders are a huge pain in the rear end because you need the buy or make the right cap for each permutation of brake or clutch res cap. The universal round and square caps are absolutely awful to use in most cases. So you better have a non-pressure backup in case you need to do something RIGHT NOW and can't get it ordered or find a cap at the scrap yard right quick.
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Jul 1, 2021 00:06
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They're plastic, right? Man, that is a perfect use case for a 3d print if it'll hold enough pressure..
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Jul 1, 2021 00:14
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Motronic posted:
I just keep buying BMWs, and so does my Dad. I've only needed the one cap so far! 
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Jul 1, 2021 00:59
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Motronic posted:I'm still on team Motive/pressure bleeding. This is particularly helpful for clutches and any brake master/clutch master/clutch slave replacements. I've had speed bleeders work fine for me but the person asking is replacing a whole bunch of components, so I think getting a proper pressure bleeder is the best choice. Also see if there's any special procedure for an ABS car, my mechanic had difficulty with that on my Mazda (despite my suggestion of that likely being an issue).
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Jul 1, 2021 03:22
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Javid posted:They're plastic, right? Man, that is a perfect use case for a 3d print if it'll hold enough pressure.. 3D printers, and I have one and love it, are solutions looking for problems in a case like this. I bet even PLA will hold pressure....maybe even stand up to brake fluid more than once. But where are you getting the model? How about the gasket? Gonna try printing that out of TPU? Unless this is something super exotic/weird/old just go buy a cap off the help display at the parts store or at the junkyard if it's an expensive one. Drill a hole through the middle/remove the level sensor and throw it on the pressure bleeder.
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Jul 1, 2021 04:00
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Thirding. Cycling new fluid through all four corners in in under ten minutes, by myself, is very freeing, even with the 15-minute setup time. I've had no trouble at all with the Motive pressure-bleed universal-style caps. The chain is laughable, but hell: it works. I am thinking of making custom caps next time by buying a spare, drilling it out & installing a barb assembly. Probably around the same time I'll change the threaded union to one with a slip coupling so I don't have to sppiiinnn the damned thing around the hose
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Jul 1, 2021 04:22
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PainterofCrap posted:I've had no trouble at all with the Motive pressure-bleed universal-style caps. The chain is laughable, but hell: it works. You must be more patient and detailed than I am. I make a mess of that regularly. So case in point, I guess you CAN make those work 
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Jul 1, 2021 05:02
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ryanrs posted:Ha ha, nobody wants to commit one way or the other on whether it's repairable.  New ones looks like a valves.  They were at mine working V4 95 and it did run, just had to take the valves of to change the valve stem seal. So figured out to do something with them. IOwnCalculus posted:
It's just more that i have all the time in the world and basic workshop tools to make them smooth. Was just wondering is the damage too much and is there enough valve left after the grinding.
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Jul 1, 2021 07:59
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unless you are super super price sensitive I'd probably buy them as a way to give myself peace of mind that i wouldn't have to open it up again
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Jul 1, 2021 13:16
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^^ this. You have it open why not get new valves at a decent price. Save the headache of having to do it if it's an issue.
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Jul 1, 2021 13:35
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Hello thread I am back for more punishment. I took Motronic's advice and have been looking into the fuel system as the possible culprit for the cars engine turning over but not starting. Fuel pump fuse looked good. When setting the key to ignition you can hear the fuel pump relay click but the fuel pump is not priming. I tried giving the fuel tank a thump with a rubber mallot but that did not help the car turn on. Also checked the plug for power and although I did not have great ground I was reading about 11.5V when turning the key. I gave the intake a little squirt of starting fluid and it did turn on before dying a second or two after. At this point it seems like the culprit is a dead fuel pump right? Or is it possible I'm forgetting something else to check? The fuel pumps on these cars do not have a valve to do a pressure reading off of. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge to test with and from what I saw a Hyundai forum, this gen car requires a Hyundai specific tool to run that test.
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Jul 1, 2021 17:31
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Okay so I have been learning and fighting me some coolant hoses off the coolant pipe and I have all of em but one beat, a rounded out hex surrendered easily with an impact and a shimmy of electrical tape and I was thinking I would be done today behold, the bastard That sticky out bit on the pipe- I can't get the hose clamps over it, and I can't retreat them far enough the other way because there's an obstruction preventing me from sliding the hose clamp down far enough I tried sticking vice grips on the clamp to hold it open but then I don't have enough room to sneak something down between the hose and the pipe to break the seal Cut the fucker off with a hacksaw or is there a trick? Cut the clamp or cut the sticky out bit? I tried wiggling that little poo poo every way and I can't figure out how it went on in the first place
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Jul 1, 2021 17:51
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