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Thanks! E: bad snipe, have a ghost I made a while ago 
Winklebottom fucked around with this message at 22:09 on Jul 2, 2021 |
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Jul 2, 2021 21:39
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How about bushes/tufts over etsy?
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Jul 2, 2021 21:40
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Skails posted:Starting in on a Hordes of Chaos army, first up is the mounted sorcerer. This is old school in all the best ways!
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Jul 2, 2021 22:37
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Geisladisk posted:Are you sure about that? I have a bunch of matt varnishes and mediums and they smell very different. The varnishes have a very distinct smell that is very different from the mediums. I'm sure there are some differences in additives, there are probably extra drying retarders in medium, but the primary ingredient is still acrylic base. Before there were so many options for varnishes matte medium was a popular alternative, and of course Klear/Future/Pledge is just pure acrylic varnish which hobbyists have been using as a gloss medium, and a gloss varnish for over a decade.
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Jul 2, 2021 23:05
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Minis number 3 (sword) and 4 (mace). Still have a long way to go, but they're definitely improving. I experimented with glazing the cape on the mace one, and was pretty happy with the result for a first attempt. I'm also finding my dry-brushing is getting better which is nice. I do think I need to pick-up new paints though as the ones I have are at least 7 years old citadel ones, and I think their quality is not great, and that there's better stuff out there. Fine details are really hard for me, as my eyes have gone down hill since I was last painting. I've ordered a headband with lenses / light and I'm hoping that will help as right now I have no chance of doing eyes (I've tried like 10 times and they're all terrible) or getting paint onto small details without getting it all over everything else as well.     Any feedback / tips are definitely appreciated. PotatoManJack fucked around with this message at 00:59 on Jul 3, 2021 |
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Jul 3, 2021 00:55
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My buddy printed off some stuff for me recently and threw these two mini busts in as a surprise bonus. Fun little couple hour project
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Jul 3, 2021 01:31
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I got some 6x2mm magnets but they aren't flush underneath my bases. Should I have gone for 6x3 or will the missing millimeter be taken up by the hot glue?
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Jul 3, 2021 03:50
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the missing millimeter is pretty fine
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Jul 3, 2021 04:43
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Finished a few things. A Bugbear   A Death Knight   A sinister Priest or Paladin   A Gray Render    And the surprise pack animal I intend to spring on my players in a setting without horses     
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Jul 3, 2021 04:46
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Heavy WIP tech priest. Any suggestions for the (supposed to be) purple robes? It's druhki violet over screamer pink and when I tried to hit the highlights it went too pink very quickly. That and the fine highlight of warpfiend grey was very stark. Another 2 rounds of shade and more selective mids? 
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Jul 3, 2021 06:19
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GreenBuckanneer posted:I got some 6x2mm magnets but they aren't flush underneath my bases. Should I have gone for 6x3 or will the missing millimeter be taken up by the hot glue? If you’re using actual metal (sheet metal, cookie tin, baking tray) the magnet not being flush is not a problem, the mini will stick just fine. At least that’s the case for me, I can jostle the box around, turn it upside down and even (gently) toss it across the room without the minies moving at all. If you’re using something other than metal, you probably want the magnet flush. Someone in this thread suggested setting the magnet in a big dollop of hot glue and putting mini down on the magnetic surface, with a sheet of baking paper in between (so it doesn’t glue the magnet to the surface).
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Jul 3, 2021 07:12
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That's what I ended up doing, but without the baking sheet. Took a couple hours but I was able to magnetize the bases of 3000 points of units I also realized that the only units that needed two or more magnets where the very large models, basically the bikers, and larger models GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 07:56 on Jul 3, 2021 |
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Jul 3, 2021 07:53
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a7m2 posted:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...-c1161fd32666-0 Cheers, thank you. Order placed, and I look forward to using some of my old Vallejos. My recent projects, oldest on the right (I hate and suck at painting faces and will avoid it until the end of time): (L) old Reaper viking, (C) Bretonnian squire, and (R) Nolzur's human warlock. In natural light they don't look as bad as they do when photographed and zoomed in, goddamn.  And my latest one, the warrior from Dark Souls which should be a gif but isn't? The DS minis are fun to paint; detailed but not bogged down with extras, almost everything is easy to reach with a brush, and the sculpts are clean and you can tell where something like armour begins and a hand starts. EDIT: http://i.imgur.com/flPdei8.gifv
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Jul 3, 2021 16:40
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Just got my Bones 5 kickstarter in.. I've dabbled in painting minis a couple times but now it's time to really get in to this crazy hobby. Back to page 1 for all the newbie tutorials and then I'll return with my first painted mini 😂 what do I even start with?!
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Jul 3, 2021 16:54
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That bones 5 kickstarter seems absolutely insane in terms of volume of minis. I would have been suckered into buying the extra $350 worth of expansions though, those are some good looking models. $470 of models isn't even a lot of money....all things considered.... Too bad I missed out. How are reaper minis? I see https://www.reapermini.com/search/reapercon2021/latest/01667 but IDK if that's a good value I really want some cool Goblina miniatures to paint but IDK what's good.
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Jul 3, 2021 20:03
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I like reaper minis, they're incredibly durable and the detail is usually pretty ok (not as crisp as plastic or metal but it's not bad). They seem to be phasing out their old white bones PVC for something closer to the bones black PVC that's nearly as durable but holds detail better. Some of their minis are a bit weird, though.
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Jul 3, 2021 20:11
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GreenBuckanneer posted:How are reaper minis? For the price they're not bad. But the sculpts are kinda mushy and the plastic is really soft and hard to work with. Instead of scraping off mould lines you have to cut them. Also they can be a little warped and hard to bend back into place even with the hot water cold water trick.
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Jul 3, 2021 20:27
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Their new PVC is a lot better. Especially on their new minis  But even their older, "mushy"-er sculpts are improved by the new stuff.  It's also more rigid, so even though there's still a little weapon deformation, it's significantly less pronounced.
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Jul 3, 2021 21:20
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are there any advantages to metal over modern plastic or resin?
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Jul 3, 2021 21:27
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jesus WEP posted:are there any advantages to metal over modern plastic or resin? Mainly from a production side, but also some on the hobby side. Metal is waaaaay better than resin for not getting hosed up casts. Even good casters tend to get lot of bubbles now and then in resin kits. I've never seen any brand that consistently sell me resin without bubbles, and then you don't know how many casts were thrown out on the way by QA. I remember putting together a M10 resin tank. Suddenly the entire barrel just fell apart, revealing that there was a big bubble in the middle. Impossible to fix, had to replace with a metal barrel. I've done resin casting myself, and it can be a complete nightmare when it acts up. Metal is a lot cheaper to make molds for than plastic, and you get far more spins out of each mold than a mold for resin casting. Basically you need to know that you'll push many thousands of boxes before it's even worth looking at plastic, while resin casting is much more labour intensive. Metal minis still has a decent sweet spot from a production point of view. On the painting side: Metal is a lot more sturdy than resin. Metal bends when resin cracks. Doing any conversions or similar with resin is almost impossible, while it's tough but not impossible with metal. When resin breaks it tends to break in horrible ways that are harder to fix than to fix broken metal minis. Bad paints jobs is much easier to strip from metal or plastic minis. I've recently bought a bunch of mixed work lots of minis, and the ones in resins are horrible to strip. The ones in plastic are tough, but not impossible. The metal ones? Just put them in methylated spirit for a while, and they're like new. Personally, I think metal sculpts are often nicer to paint than plastic or resin. It might be a personal bias from growing up with metal minis, but paint just sticks to it in a different way that I like.
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Jul 3, 2021 21:40
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lilljonas posted:Mainly from a production side, but also some on the hobby side.
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Jul 3, 2021 21:57
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Metal minis also feel better in your hand because they're not weightless wisps of resin
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Jul 4, 2021 00:21
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Silhouette posted:Metal minis also feel better in your hand because they're not weightless wisps of resin this is honestly a big consideration for me for tabletop games
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Jul 4, 2021 01:43
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i just glue a 2p piece under my bases
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Jul 4, 2021 01:47
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Magnets under the bases add enough weight to feel cool as hell
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Jul 4, 2021 02:29
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hard/rigid plastic > metal > soft plastic > resin i like the weight of metal, but i get really nervous and antsy about materials that lose structural integrity every time they bend and bend relatively easy. ironically even if a brittle material is more likely to break in the first place i like just like the feeling of knowing that it's basically either intact or not metal being easy to strip if you make a mistake or buy secondhand is also a plus and then of course any of this is better than a material that you have to wear protective gear while cleaning/assembling 
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Jul 4, 2021 16:11
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finally got five dudes parade ready, based, tatted up, varnished still got no lamps for my ghetto light box, here’s a retouched version 
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Jul 4, 2021 17:20
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resin is very fragile. I've had a few models fall from my shelf and they absolutely shatter upon impact. In comparison I've dropped some GW plastics and maybe a piece will come off but I can always glue it back into place.
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Jul 4, 2021 17:21
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My mini material rundown based on my experiences: Lead miniatures are horrible and my massive collection from childhood is infected with lead rot now (not to mention I'm sure I have a bunch of lead in me from way back then). Pewter minis were a much better medium and fixed both of those lead problems, but they were pretty brittle as well and thin parts broken easily. GW injection-moulded plastics are nice from a durability and detail standpoint, but very constricting in terms of the sculpts (or need to be a million pieces to get anything dynamic). Reaper-style soft plastics are kind of a decent tradeoff between pewter and injection-moulded plastics, but thin parts are super bendy and the detail level seems worse than hard plastics. Casted resin miniatures have the best detail compared to all the above, but they're brittle and expensive. 3D printed resins are the best of everything, especially the ABS-like resin that also solves the brittleness of resin. Highest detail level, no sculpting constraints, crazy cheap, and a nice solid feel to them.
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Jul 4, 2021 17:40
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Painted up a lil kobold archer buddy. I couldn't tell what the circle on their chest was supposed to be, so I decided it's a badge indicating they're official Sewer Inspector from the Union of Sewer and Tunnel Workers.
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Jul 4, 2021 18:45
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Cross-posting from the MCP thread. Their sculpts are getting better and better. 
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Jul 4, 2021 18:53
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Cthulu Carl posted:Painted up a lil kobold archer buddy. Well, hey there, Kobold Buddy! Do you wanna buy a potion?  
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Jul 4, 2021 18:54
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Metal feels great to play with, but when you break a tiny part (like a hand holding a sword), be prepared for that to never adhere securely ever again.
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Jul 4, 2021 18:55
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That's what pinning is for
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Jul 4, 2021 19:38
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lilljonas posted:Bad paints jobs is much easier to strip from metal or plastic minis. I've recently bought a bunch of mixed work lots of minis, and the ones in resins are horrible to strip. The ones in plastic are tough, but not impossible. I can't find which modelling thread recommended Testors ELO for stripping plastic models, so I'm crossposting it. That stuff is magic. I sloshed some over a couple of parts I needed to re-paint and in about 10 minutes the paint and primer were basically floating free of the plastic part. The toothbrush wasn't used for scrubbing, but just to wipe the old paint off. Your mileage may, and probably will, vary based on what kind of plastic, primer, and paint you have. Always test a solvent on spare sprue or a sample of the material that you can stand watching melt into a puddle (test everything, especially varnish over clear parts). Mine was a scale model from Hasegawa and seemed like a pretty normal plastic for scale kits intended for PVC glue. The other part was from a Bandai HG gunpla kit. Everything had been primed with Vallejo ivory airbrush primer and painted with Model Air colors. Thanks to whoever recommended it.
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Jul 4, 2021 21:07
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3d printed resin is incredibly good poo poo and strong as hell. I think a lot of people consider it Brittle because they use poo poo resin tbh
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Jul 4, 2021 21:13
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I'm so salty about painting a Dark Angel this color... Why oh why do all librarians have to wear blue armor? I'm super excited about the blending on the power sword though! Brother Ezekiel Primaris Version is almost done 
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Jul 4, 2021 21:33
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I use anycubic's basic rear end translucent green. Would love to know what is a better, more durable option.
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Jul 5, 2021 06:22
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w00tmonger posted:3d printed resin is incredibly good poo poo and strong as hell. I think a lot of people consider it Brittle because they use poo poo resin tbh You realise that this is basically "I think a lot of people consider it brittle because a lot of it actually is brittle", right?
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Jul 5, 2021 10:43
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Lake Jucas posted:I use anycubic's basic rear end translucent green. Would love to know what is a better, more durable option. The clear resins all feel brittle to me. I use Phrozen’s 4K. It has a solid weight and feels a lot more resilient. I wouldn’t go slam dunking your minis but I don’t sweat the drops as much. They do make resin specifically meant to be more bendy. I can’t vouch for the detail in the prints but it can’t be too far off.
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Jul 5, 2021 14:32
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