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Hey does anyone have a good vehicle weathering guide? Got an ork vehicle just to paint and I wanna try something new
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Jul 5, 2021 15:06
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Business Gorillas posted:Hey does anyone have a good vehicle weathering guide? Got an ork vehicle just to paint and I wanna try something new If you're interested in trying some weathering techniques from real world armour, you can't go wrong checking out Night Shift or Plasmos vids. All those guys do is paint and detail armor, and do it in many different ways. You're bound to find a load of techniques you can apply to Ork vehicles. https://www.youtube.com/c/NightShiftScaleModels/videos https://www.youtube.com/c/idaemonplasmo/videos If you wan to spend some money on a book or two, I recommend the FAQ books, by AK Interactive, or Adams Armour, by Adam Wilder. You're unlikely to find copies of Adams Armour for cheap anymore, but I thought I'd mention it as they're considered absolute bibles of model building and detailing, and you might want to hunt down some copies. The FAQ books on armour are still readily available, and are weighty tomes on just about any and every type of armour detailing. I've got a copy of every FAQ book so far, and loved them all. https://ak-interactive.com/product-category/scale-modeling-publications/scale-modeling-books/books-faq/ https://www.wilder.su/collections/books
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Jul 5, 2021 15:55
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 so I got some of these 8 inch wooden hexagons and was wondering if you could use them to make a modular gaming table for Warhammer or whatever. Put some rubber thingies on the back to keep them from sliding, then paint them up differently to represent different types of terrain. Could sculpt some to have hills and roads and what not. Would make the board look kinda like a game of Civ 5 which I think would look pretty cool. You'd need about 50-60 to make a 4x6 table, which is kind of alot tho. Is this a stupid idea? Too much work or too tedious to actually use?
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Jul 5, 2021 16:53
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that sounds like a lot of work but "moveable type gaming table" is a premise that is absolutely worth it
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Jul 5, 2021 16:57
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I think it's a cool and fun idea. You can test out different terrain types too with it so you're not just making a billion of the same cobblestone squares. Maybe do little batches of tiles to clump up together that can be combined to have clusters of biomes but keep things different. 10 forest, 10 village, 10 mountain, 10 radioactive cyberpunk city, whatever.
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Jul 5, 2021 17:26
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Nebalebadingdong posted:
Def. doable but a beast to store. I've got about 100 4.5" ones from warsenal that I want to use to make modular hills, roads and industrial/city/built-up areas.
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Jul 5, 2021 17:50
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How would I make it so that tiles can be picked up without disturbing their neighbors?
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Jul 5, 2021 17:58
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Nebalebadingdong posted:
I feel like its a fun idea that would be a massive hassle to actually do. Most modular boards I see have a) bigger modular tiles, so fewer are needed to make a full table, and b) square sections, which mean you only need to deal with 4 edges. Because the edges are the hassle, as they need to match up with the edges of all your other tiles (or at least a good portion of them). So (for example) if you've used sculptamold or similar to build up some groundforms you have to try and make that fairly uniform at the edges of a number of tiles, as they have to line up with 6 other surrounding tiles and you dont want a straight lip sticking up between them. To avoid that you could make most of them plain flat tiles with just some flock or whatever, but at that point you might as well just use a battlemat and regular terrain. I mean, if you manage it it'll be cool, but its not going to be a short/easy project! Me, I'd be tempted to just bevel the edges and make them bases for regular terrain pieces, especially if you only have a few of them so far. Or maybe just make a modular road, because at least then you know which edges need to match (the ones with the road on them).
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Jul 5, 2021 18:04
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Nebalebadingdong posted:How would I make it so that tiles can be picked up without disturbing their neighbors? Each one could have a small solid dowel embedded in it, that you could grab to lift the whole thing up. You could disguise the dowel as parts of the scenery, such as a stump, or metal pipe, etc etc. You could also go really fancy and embed a strong magnet in the center of each one, and then have a separate magnetic grabber that hold over the board to "pick" it up.
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Jul 5, 2021 18:04
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Each one could have a small solid dowel embedded in it, that you could grab to lift the whole thing up. You could disguise the dowel as parts of the scenery, such as a stump, or metal pipe, etc etc. I thought about magnets too but then I thought what if you're playing someone that magnetized their miniature bases?
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Jul 5, 2021 18:31
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tangy yet delightful posted:I thought about magnets too but then I thought what if you're playing someone that magnetized their miniature bases? Warhammer and Katamari Damacy crossover?
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Jul 5, 2021 18:34
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tangy yet delightful posted:I thought about magnets too but then I thought what if you're playing someone that magnetized their miniature bases? Could just go with a chunk of steel, and just have the magnet be on the grabber. Magnetic bases would still stick but they wouldn't stick as bad or get repelled.
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Jul 5, 2021 18:53
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My first Warhammer army is slowly growing! I know I'm still making a bunch of mistakes when it comes to actually painting them, but overall I'm trying not sweat those kinds of things and just focusing on finishing models.   
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Jul 5, 2021 19:25
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Nebalebadingdong posted:
Make the world's biggest Catan set
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Jul 5, 2021 19:32
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Heroic Yoshimitsu posted:My first Warhammer army is slowly growing! I know I'm still making a bunch of mistakes when it comes to actually painting them, but overall I'm trying not sweat those kinds of things and just focusing on finishing models. I think they're looking pretty decent! One thing I think might lift them slightly without much extra effort though is doing the eyes. I'm normally a big proponent of "dont try to paint eyes, just put some extra wash in the eye socket", but with those necrons the eyeball is actually raised in the socket and they dont need a white and a pupil, so all you'd need to do is touch the raised bit with white, then when that has dried put a contrast paint (or tesseract glow if you want to go that way) over the eye. Just would give a touch of colour in the face so its less of a sea of steel.
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Jul 5, 2021 19:39
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SiKboy posted:I think they're looking pretty decent! One thing I think might lift them slightly without much extra effort though is doing the eyes. I'm normally a big proponent of "dont try to paint eyes, just put some extra wash in the eye socket", but with those necrons the eyeball is actually raised in the socket and they dont need a white and a pupil, so all you'd need to do is touch the raised bit with white, then when that has dried put a contrast paint (or tesseract glow if you want to go that way) over the eye. Just would give a touch of colour in the face so its less of a sea of steel. Follow on tip: use a toothpick for really tiny spots of color, like in eyes. That can be easier than tiny brushes for some applications.
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Jul 5, 2021 21:49
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Skails posted:Starting in on a Hordes of Chaos army, first up is the mounted sorcerer. This is magnificent. I have the mini, but not painted it yet! This is great inspiration!
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Jul 5, 2021 22:07
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Good thinking on the eyes. I’ll definitely add them in the next time I paint.
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Jul 5, 2021 22:09
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So i just got my dominion box set and have started assembling my Kruleboyz. Ive got a color scheme in mind with blue shields and blue body paint to give them a bit of a 40k deathskulls meets celtic woad warrior look but ive never done body paint before and am not sure what im doing. Should I just paint some talasar blue contrast paint over the completed flesh or should I go with a non contrast paint or is there some trick to body paints that Im missing?
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Jul 6, 2021 05:21
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Out of curiosity, are there any decent miniature subscription boxes out there? I feel like that'd be perfect gift for someone but I wasn't finding a lot online
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Jul 6, 2021 05:40
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AnEdgelord posted:So i just got my dominion box set and have started assembling my Kruleboyz. Ive got a color scheme in mind with blue shields and blue body paint to give them a bit of a 40k deathskulls meets celtic woad warrior look but ive never done body paint before and am not sure what im doing. Should I just paint some talasar blue contrast paint over the completed flesh or should I go with a non contrast paint or is there some trick to body paints that Im missing? I’d go with non-contrast paint, since contrast depends heavily on the underlying color. I’ve only done body paint a few times but I find it’s important to remember to highlight the body painted areas. If you do a blue facepaint, then highlight stuff like lips and cheekbones with a lighter blue, and so on. Makes it look more natural.
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Jul 6, 2021 10:11
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AnEdgelord posted:So i just got my dominion box set and have started assembling my Kruleboyz. Ive got a color scheme in mind with blue shields and blue body paint to give them a bit of a 40k deathskulls meets celtic woad warrior look but ive never done body paint before and am not sure what im doing. Should I just paint some talasar blue contrast paint over the completed flesh or should I go with a non contrast paint or is there some trick to body paints that Im missing? Contrast paints are transparent so they won’t work well for body paint. I recommend using normal acrylics painted on after the skin is completed. If you want something really smooth and opaque that will have nice coverage in a single pass, that’s good for complex patterns and details, I’d recommend artist inks.
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Jul 6, 2021 13:32
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Anyone got any recommendations for storing paints in an easy to access way?
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Jul 6, 2021 14:36
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nail polish stands they work great for paint bottles
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Jul 6, 2021 14:38
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jesus WEP posted:nail polish stands Yes, that's exactly what I'm after. Cheers
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Jul 6, 2021 14:40
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Verisimilidude posted:Contrast paints are transparent so they won’t work well for body paint. I recommend using normal acrylics painted on after the skin is completed. If you want something really smooth and opaque that will have nice coverage in a single pass, that’s good for complex patterns and details, I’d recommend artist inks. Any particular brands of artist ink you would recommend?
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Jul 6, 2021 14:52
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AnEdgelord posted:Any particular brands of artist ink you would recommend? Daler Rowny and Liquitex are solid.
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Jul 6, 2021 14:58
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jesus WEP posted:nail polish stands I have a wall-mounted one and it works pretty great
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Jul 6, 2021 15:15
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I really need one of those by now because my hobbyzone shelf has zero space at this point.
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Jul 6, 2021 15:26
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I bought a filing cabinet from Ikea that works well for my abhorrently large collection of paints   There's three drawers filled with paint like that and then one of brushes, one of basing materials, and one that I just keep gloves in. I like trying out paint and different colors
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Jul 6, 2021 15:28
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Spanish Manlove posted:I bought a filing cabinet from Ikea that works well for my abhorrently large collection of paints I use that one for my tools - one drawer for cutting tools, one for glues and tapes, one for sanding tools, one to store my light box, one for coloring books and colored pencils for the days where I want to out color on something but just can't be motivated to paint a mini...
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Jul 6, 2021 17:22
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For Paint storage here's a tip. Both Alcohol inks (used for scrapbooking) and Essential Oils (used for... something) have the same sized bottles as miniature paints, so their racks and cases, of which there are a lot, can be used, searching amazon for either will give you tons of options. I use a few of these hard shell foam cases for all my vallejo paints, they're super convenient. 
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Jul 6, 2021 17:29
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BELIAL, GRAND MASTER OF THE DEATHWING hell yeah
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Jul 6, 2021 17:51
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Had another go at a Rockgut Troggoth  I think I like this scheme better than my previous one. More color to contrast with the pale grots. E: best buds 
Winklebottom fucked around with this message at 18:20 on Jul 6, 2021 |
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Jul 6, 2021 18:03
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Heroic Yoshimitsu posted:My first Warhammer army is slowly growing! I know I'm still making a bunch of mistakes when it comes to actually painting them, but overall I'm trying not sweat those kinds of things and just focusing on finishing models. I would echo SiKboy’s suggestion, a green glow on the eyes would be the perfect addition
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Jul 6, 2021 18:19
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Winklebottom posted:Had another go at a Rockgut Troggoth I thought the other one was cool too, but this one is amazing. I really like the shading/highlighting, is it zenithal? It’s a very unique color choice and very vibrant. Sandstone head on the weapon goes nicely with the colors. I like the blue on the base and tongue too, also very vibrant. Which color is that? Baharroth? Electric blue?
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Jul 6, 2021 18:23
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Revelation 2-13 posted:I thought the other one was cool too, but this one is amazing. I really like the shading/highlighting, is it zenithal? It’s a very unique color choice and very vibrant. Sandstone head on the weapon goes nicely with the colors. I like the blue on the base and tongue too, also very vibrant. Which color is that? Baharroth? Electric blue? Thanks! No zenithal, just lots of paint mixes and layering (enough that I'm sorta dreading having to paint the remaining five trolls). The blue is Sotek Green -> Temple Guard Blue -> Baharroth Blue, yeah. Really love those blues, very vibrant as you said.
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Jul 6, 2021 19:01
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if i created a tmm zenithal with black metal - steel - silver, is there a contrast or ink that will make it look gold? or are metallics too cold, and it’ll end up looking a bit green?
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Jul 6, 2021 19:03
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jesus WEP posted:if i created a tmm zenithal with black metal - steel - silver, is there a contrast or ink that will make it look gold? or are metallics too cold, and it’ll end up looking a bit green? You'd have to test it, but I have had very good results painting contrast snakebite leather over silvers to get a nice gold effect. It's my favorite way to paint gold now.
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Jul 6, 2021 19:11
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I wanted to test out a yellow contrast but I hear a thinned out snakebite leather will work and think a few people of posted a recipe for NMM with it. I've done the pseudo zenithal think with vmc jet exhaust - magnesium - chrome then using contrast aethermatic blue, talasssar blue (super good try it) and some scale 75 red instant paints. Works pretty well
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Jul 6, 2021 19:14
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