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biracial bear for uncut posted:Hm. Well, the Chitty print printed, but I neglected to double-check the "Support Everywhere" settings and it's going to take a while to remove all of it. What's the thingiverse link for this? I want to take a look at it
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# ? Jul 7, 2021 14:47 |
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# ? May 20, 2024 04:28 |
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armorer posted:What's the thingiverse link for this? I want to take a look at it biracial bear for uncut posted:I mean, I'm no "expert" but I'm pretty sure I could get better results on my machine-that-must-not-be-named-lest-I-provoke-a-derail. biracial bear for uncut posted:PrusaSlicer claims this can print in about 11 hours and 40 minutes on the idle Delta printer I have in my office. I'll get it going and maybe sometime tomorrow morning I'll have something to share (assuming that machine doesn't suffer a failure of some kind).
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# ? Jul 7, 2021 15:17 |
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UPDATE ON CHITU DRAMA I guess Chitu systems isn't being a bag of dicks. Assuming the reply I got turns out to be accurate, it's much ado about nothing. The Chitu people who run the FB group are morons - if they had made this clear, it would be a non-issue. Urge to kill fading.... Chitu Tech Support Hero posted:Thank you for your email, since support@chitubox.com is a tech support email, I can't tell much about the policy aspect, I can only answer tech-relevant issues.
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# ? Jul 7, 2021 16:23 |
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It was a nine hour print. I don't know how that translates to quality settings.
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# ? Jul 7, 2021 18:00 |
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Darth Brooks posted:It was a nine hour print. I don't know how that translates to quality settings. It doesn't. Too many variable differences between machines and their capabilities.
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# ? Jul 7, 2021 19:22 |
Is there a way to get Cura to start increasing infill at a certain layer number? I'm having issues getting screw holes and hex nut holes to print on this one model, I want to have it be at 20% infill for the rest of the model but ramp up to 80% to help support the holes.
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# ? Jul 8, 2021 15:31 |
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Doctor Zero posted:UPDATE ON CHITU DRAMA that subscription fee for chitubox pro is still extremely lol for sth for hobbyists. i can’t see them sticking with that forever, i just doubt they’ll get the subscription numbers they’re probably hoping for.
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# ? Jul 8, 2021 15:35 |
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MJP posted:Is there a way to get Cura to start increasing infill at a certain layer number? I'm having issues getting screw holes and hex nut holes to print on this one model, I want to have it be at 20% infill for the rest of the model but ramp up to 80% to help support the holes. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DGso6sAIXb0
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# ? Jul 8, 2021 15:43 |
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3d printed myself a goddamn metal casting ladle. the future is wild forgot to include a scale, the ball is 1.75" outer diameter. gonna make a hanger/tilting handle from stout titanium wire that sockets into the bosses in the side bottom-pouring for her pleasure gonna use it like a dipper to ladle metal from a melt pot into molds. as long as i dont overheat the dickens out of the metal the plastic shouldn't even lose any strength or rigidity.
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# ? Jul 8, 2021 16:09 |
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What material is that? Definitely can't be PLA given the use case but ?????
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# ? Jul 8, 2021 17:38 |
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Yeah +1 to material curiosity. All my metal casting ladles that look like that are ceramic to resist very high temps haha
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# ? Jul 8, 2021 17:41 |
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It's for quicksilver ☿
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# ? Jul 8, 2021 17:48 |
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biracial bear for uncut posted:What material is that? Definitely can't be PLA given the use case but ????? Siraya Sculpt Ultra, it's been my darling for the past month or two and i'm using it for all my casting dies. It was explicitly formulated for directly printing production-worthy plastic injection molds after people noticed normal Sculpt had very high temperature resistance. It's rated to not lose any strength until past 220C, but they've informally told me that it can withstand significantly higher than that before suffering damage. I'm working with two low-melting alloys (tin-bismuth-lead based) that are both liquid and castable at around 200C or lower, so I've never run into any heat-related issues at all. So far as I know, this is the first affordable DLP-geared resin that can play ball with hot tooling applications, I bought a bottle from literally the first batch, so this is very new stuff. I'll probably try casting some pure lead (much higher melting point, significantly higher than 220C) in a Sculpt Ultra mold soon, it seems tentatively viable but the molds have short service lives, judging by other people's experiments. I bet with active cooling channels modelled into the tool you could cast lead all day with this stuff.
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# ? Jul 8, 2021 18:17 |
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It looks like it prints pretty nicely too EDIT: Lol I thought it was for FDM. Still cool though!
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# ? Jul 8, 2021 18:33 |
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What do people think of water washable resins? Babysitting this huge container of IPA is a chore.
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# ? Jul 8, 2021 18:40 |
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it's a low-poly model and there's a lamination defect that created a hole i had to patch with brushed-on resin and a secondary UV blast. This isn't a good example of what Ultra can do, it's phenomenal for super high detail prints.Deviant posted:What do people think of water washable resins? Babysitting this huge container of IPA is a chore. Water-washable is often slightly wishful thinking, you really want to be using at least a low strength IPA to get effective cleaning. And if you're using weak IPA, might as well use strong IPA that'll work better, is my outlook. The resins themselves are... fine, for typical hobbyist model printing, but you will have very little variety outside of generic cheap resins.
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# ? Jul 8, 2021 18:41 |
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I guess the followup is about how scuzzy do you let your IPA get before you filter/replace/whatever? I wonder if a two bucket setup would have more longevity, like: 1) Generic pickle bucket with IPA as a first quick rinse 2) dedicated propeller bucket for the wash and cure station as a second wash, to keep this nicer? I'd buy a second wash and cure plus propeller bucket, but as far as i can tell anycubic doesn't offer them for the Plus yet.
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# ? Jul 8, 2021 19:10 |
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Yeah, I use a two-step process, with just one you'll be unable to fully clean your parts once the alcohol is saturated, and you probably won't know it until some parts get jacked up during the post-cure. I use two ordinary pickle containers with strainer inserts, i'll graduate to a wash/cure station eventually. re: saturation, I find the wash tends to remain clear as long as it isn't saturated, once that happens it'll quickly become and stay cloudy even if left for hours to settle out. A two-step wash makes this simpler to deal with, I just cycle through the containers as they become saturated- when the first stage gets a UV scrub it just becomes the second stage, and the second becomes the first and is allowed to get gross until the cycle repeats.
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# ? Jul 8, 2021 19:21 |
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I guess i just don't have a sense for what's 'too much'. This looks fine to me, though. I filtered it through a microfiber towel to get a bunch of resin out, then put it back.
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# ? Jul 8, 2021 19:44 |
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Deviant posted:What do people think of water washable resins? Babysitting this huge container of IPA is a chore. Would you prefer to babbysit a huge container of contaminated water? I tried water washable resin at first thinking it would be easier to deal with and it really wasn't. It took a lot more effort to wash with water and still resin residue was left on my prints. When I was done I had a container of resin contaminated water and no real idea how to dispose of it, so I left it in the sun for a few weeks for it to all evaporate. Deviant posted:I guess the followup is about how scuzzy do you let your IPA get before you filter/replace/whatever? I do: From the printer still on the build plate directly into the wash and cure station with 99% IPA for 3 minutes. Then scrape off the build plate into a pickle bucket with 99% IPA, returning the build plate to the printer. I remove the supports, give the areas around/under the supports a quick brush and then put them on a paper towel to dry before going into the curing station. The IPA in the first wash gets pretty saturated but it still cleans fine, I have yet to end up with residue on my prints from this method. If anyone sold the propeller buckets on their own I would buy a few of them immediately. Or if I could find a pickle bucket with strainer that was bigger... I've looked all over for both and come up empty.
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# ? Jul 8, 2021 19:46 |
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Bucnasti posted:words You using this same pickle bucket as everyone else? https://www.amazon.com/LOCK-HPL933BT-Pickle-Container/dp/B06WD1F7HD Anycubic sells buckets seperately, but they don't have the wash and cure plus buckets yet. Deviant fucked around with this message at 19:50 on Jul 8, 2021 |
# ? Jul 8, 2021 19:47 |
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Deviant posted:You using this same pickle bucket as everyone else? yeah, That's the common one. Keep in mind it's probably smaller than you think, but unless you are washing something huge, it should be fine.
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# ? Jul 8, 2021 20:05 |
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Doctor Zero posted:yeah, That's the common one. Keep in mind it's probably smaller than you think, but unless you are washing something huge, it should be fine. This is why i'd love to have a second wash and cure propeller bucket, but then i'm managing a LOT of ipa.
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# ? Jul 8, 2021 20:07 |
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After my prints are in the IPA for their wash I dunk them into a water bucket. I know it's time to change my IPA if the water dunk shows clouds of resin coming off the prints. Even then I usually stretch it further and just leave the prints in the IPA for ~1 hour or so. If you are a hobbiest printer I can't imagine needing to change your IPA very often at all. I suspect the people that sing the praises for water washable resin are just pouring it down the drain, because when I used it, it was way more of a hassle than IPA since the water needed to be changed so often. Also, any prints that were hollowed had to be dried with compressed air to ensure there was no water left inside because the model would crack or split.
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# ? Jul 8, 2021 20:25 |
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Deviant posted:You using this same pickle bucket as everyone else? Yeah that's the one I use, it's perfect for minis and stuff, but large prints like vehicle models don't fit. I found one similar one that was taller and narrower on aliexpress but otherwise I can't find anything similar with a basket and an airtight lid. Edit: Turns out Elegoo sells the Mercury buckets, they're out of stock but had a link to Amazon, which has it in stock. My previous searches on Amazon didn't find it. Yay! Bucnasti fucked around with this message at 20:47 on Jul 8, 2021 |
# ? Jul 8, 2021 20:39 |
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I grabbed another Siraya Tech resin, the gray Fast one (I believe it's their ABS-like resin). I've heard a lot of good things about it in regards to using it for printing miniatures so I figured I'd step outside the comfort zone of my usual ST Simple resin and try it out. I didn't feel like spending nearly $30-40 for a jug of IPA, though, so I grabbed a jug of LA's Totally Awesome cleaner (which was cheaper than a jug of IPA by about half) instead. I have read a few positive reviews in regards to using it to clean resin 3D prints, so I figured I'd give it a shot. Worse comes to worse I can just take whatever I don't use and clean the house with it
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# ? Jul 8, 2021 21:59 |
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Sydney Bottocks posted:I grabbed another Siraya Tech resin, the gray Fast one (I believe it's their ABS-like resin). I've heard a lot of good things about it in regards to using it for printing miniatures so I figured I'd step outside the comfort zone of my usual ST Simple resin and try it out.
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# ? Jul 8, 2021 22:16 |
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InternetJunky posted:This is my go-to resin and I go through a lot of it. What machine are you printing on? Well, at the moment I've got four (!) potential candidates: a Mars 2, a Photon Mono, a Saturn, and a Sonic Mighty, all snagged during sales (and with a bit of luck) over the last few months. I'm not running a print farm or anything, I think I just might be one of those people who collects 3D printers
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# ? Jul 9, 2021 00:45 |
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Sydney Bottocks posted:I think I just might be one of those people who collects 3D printers I'm down to six right now, four filament and two resin, but I had nine here at one point. That was an awful lot for the amount of work space I really have, so the other three are now happily living at the makerspace that a friend started up last year (and they're honestly getting a lot more use there than they had been here lately.) I'd still like to get one more bigass filament printer to round things out, but the current herd is really serving me pretty well for now.
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# ? Jul 9, 2021 01:03 |
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Acid Reflux posted:
Yeah, I've also got a couple of Ender 5s (that I really need to start printing some wargames terrain out with), and I have an Ender 3 and two OG Mars that have all been relegated to "backup" status in case any of the other printers crap out and I need to get something done for a game. It's seriously amazing how, like two or three years ago, I probably wouldn't have even considered getting any 3D printers, and now I'm like the crazy cat person of 3D printers here.
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# ? Jul 9, 2021 01:06 |
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Sydney Bottocks posted:a Mars 2, a Photon Mono, a Saturn, and a Sonic Mighty, Somehow those are 4 machines I've never used. Here's my Mars2 Pro settings, maybe they are comparable for the Mars2 at least.
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# ? Jul 9, 2021 01:38 |
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InternetJunky posted:Somehow those are 4 machines I've never used. Here's my Mars2 Pro settings, maybe they are comparable for the Mars2 at least. They should be, from what I've read the Mars 2 and M2P are literally the same machine with one just having carbon air filters and a metal vat instead of a plastic one (and a red cover instead of a green one). Thanks!
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# ? Jul 9, 2021 01:46 |
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Sydney Bottocks posted:They should be, from what I've read the Mars 2 and M2P are literally the same machine with one just having carbon air filters and a metal vat instead of a plastic one (and a red cover instead of a green one). Thanks! Saturn should also run at the same settings
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# ? Jul 9, 2021 03:03 |
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I'm thinking about getting a resin printer, but I don't have any vent system in the area I'm thinking of installing it at the moment. Should I try to tie it in to the ductwork in the basement that vents to the outside but goes through a heat recovery system, or should I just get some dryer vent tubing, and make an insert to put into the basement window whenever I plan on using the resin printer?
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# ? Jul 9, 2021 14:58 |
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Get a resin printer with a built-in filter and don’t sweat it too much IMO
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# ? Jul 9, 2021 15:22 |
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So if I was interesting in getting an Elegoo Mars 2, something like these would be worth picking up as well? Also, is the Elegoo Mars 2 a good budget resin printer? Looking around online it seems to have good reviews and seems a good "entry level" printer. I just want something I can print out minis for tabletop games and small craft related stuff for my wife.
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# ? Jul 9, 2021 15:52 |
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Randalor posted:So if I was interesting in getting an Elegoo Mars 2, something like these would be worth picking up as well? It's a good printer. If your worried about fumes grab a decent air purifier and set it up in a seperate space from where you hang out
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# ? Jul 9, 2021 16:35 |
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I have a mars 2 pro, which as far as I can tell is the same as a mars 2 but with a built in filter and a just slightly larger build plate. It works great, my prints are super detailed and I'm very happy with it.
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# ? Jul 9, 2021 16:41 |
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I don't think the concept of "entry level" really applies to consumer resin printers. It's not like you need to learn on an original photon before you can move up to a monochrome machine. The only really important question is what kind of stuff you plan to print. If it's miniatures then a smaller 6" machine is probably going to be just fine. If it's larger pieces then you probably want to consider the larger machines. Functionally they are identical.
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# ? Jul 9, 2021 17:02 |
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# ? May 20, 2024 04:28 |
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I mean, resin techs getting better, but a basic rear end mono printer has you covered Unless your going for huge print volume (a commercial level of volume). Any mars 2, mono printer etc is more than enough detail
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# ? Jul 9, 2021 17:19 |