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Pulled the pedal back off and examined it for signs of crossthreading. All the threads looked fine. I took a look at the crank and anti-seize compound was spilling out, a sign I probably put way too much on. I put the pedal back on and it went on easy, seems like it’s good to go. Thanks for the advice.
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Jul 8, 2021 04:21
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Piggybacking the pedal comment, do I *need* to put some kind of grease or lube on the threads before installing new pedals? I'll most likely leave them on for good.
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Jul 8, 2021 19:10
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yoohoo posted:Piggybacking the pedal comment, do I *need* to put some kind of grease or lube on the threads before installing new pedals? I'll most likely leave them on for good. Not really but a tiny amount of anti seize doesn't hurt.
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Jul 8, 2021 19:40
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grease for things that you want to move, like bearings anti-seize for things that you want to be able to move at some point, like threads (but I swap pedals so much I just use grease, personally)
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Jul 8, 2021 19:49
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Okay I'll pick up some anti-seize then. My neighborhood hardware store has it for pretty cheap.
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Jul 8, 2021 20:29
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yoohoo posted:Piggybacking the pedal comment, do I *need* to put some kind of grease or lube on the threads before installing new pedals? I'll most likely leave them on for good. Put a dab of grease along the threads otherwise they’ll be on there for good and you won’t have a say about it.
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Jul 8, 2021 20:30
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highme posted:Gonna preface this with there are actual bike mechanics who read these threads, so take their advice first. If it’s just the chainrings, chain, and rear cassette that need replacing you don’t need to worry about the bottom bracket or cranks, outside of knowing what the BCD (Bolt Connection Diameter?) of the for the chainrings. Just need to buy 11spd Shimano compatible parts in your desired gear range. Cassette tool and a chain breaker are the only special tools needed. Thank you for this. I am probably overcomplicating it and just need to take some basic measurements and order up the parts.
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Jul 9, 2021 00:40
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On fsa rings its usually printed right on there. IIRC its a 110bcd. My Kona has the same crank and unless they for some reason made multiple versions its definitely 110.
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Jul 9, 2021 05:57
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EvilJoven posted:On fsa rings its usually printed right on there. IIRC its a 110bcd. My Kona has the same crank and unless they for some reason made multiple versions its definitely 110. Thanks, I knew it was easily found data, but couldn't remember the specs off the top of my head. I have to keep too many random rear end numbers in my head, so I basically only remember bike specs when I'm shopping for a thing.
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Jul 9, 2021 07:30
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When you buy a new bike copy the spec sheet from their website to a note in google keep or wherever and toss notes in there as you gain info on the bike. Stuff like what wheel bearings you need which hanger it uses etc. Makes for a nice reference for later.
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Jul 9, 2021 13:28
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Bought the following: https://www.rei.com/product/142226/shimano-105-r7000-11-speed-cassette https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017SOKT7O/ https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MFVB4DY/ https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015NXH6UA/ Maybe I'll not gently caress it up!
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Jul 9, 2021 14:50
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 I’ve gone a little crazy not being able to wrench on something after my bike was stolen last month. Spent an hour working on my sons bike until he finally told me I was being mean to the bike and had to put it down so it could sleep. I finished up on it after he went to bed.
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Jul 20, 2021 19:10
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Voodoofly posted:
That's adorable!
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Jul 20, 2021 20:05
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Voodoofly posted:
Do you have a headset press? I'm at Trek bikes on Kingsway and they can't install my acros normal headset because the lower cup is too big ....?
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Jul 20, 2021 21:21
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VelociBacon posted:Do you have a headset press? I'm at Trek bikes on Kingsway and they can't install my acros normal headset because the lower cup is too big ....? No, I'm pretty light on specific bike tools other than a stand so that I don't have to ice my back from just a simple chain lube. Are any of the community shops open up yet? back in my old life I did most of my wrenching at community shops and co-ops for a few bucks to rent workshop space for an hour or two.
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Jul 20, 2021 21:55
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Installed my 165mm AXS cranks over lunch and man that crank was loving on there. I had taken it off once before for the PM install so I know it was torqued right, but I still sheared off a 3/8 to 1/4 socket adapter getting it loose. Ordered a 1/2 30” breaker bar with a 1/2 8mm hex socket for next time. You won’t stop me now.
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Jul 22, 2021 19:58
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Biking pro: I lost 8 lbs since late April. Biking con: I have the worst tan lines ever.
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Jul 23, 2021 16:42
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poemdexter posted:Biking pro: I lost 8 lbs since late April.
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Jul 23, 2021 16:57
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I wear my tan lines with pride.
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Jul 23, 2021 17:42
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Weird creepy white glove hands crew represent
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Jul 23, 2021 17:49
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Skarsnik posted:Weird creepy white glove hands crew represent I have a line of tan between where my gloves end and where my watch band starts. My wife says my left hand looks like a hosed up zebra. Florida in two weeks is gonna be hilarious.
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Jul 23, 2021 17:56
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Skarsnik posted:Weird creepy white glove hands crew represent Oh god now I just noticed the glove lines too...  I've thought about hitting a tanning booth but I don't know if they have some ability to selectively tan parts of me.
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Jul 23, 2021 18:09
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poemdexter posted:Oh god now I just noticed the glove lines too... You guys have straight lines right from the gloves? Just dip your hands into wood stain up to that level, easy.
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Jul 23, 2021 18:29
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the tan lines are there as guides. you take them to a tattoo shop and tell them to stop when the skin gets darker/lighter depending on whether you are more concerned with pristine hidden tattoos or scarred up visible ones.
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Jul 23, 2021 19:37
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 Picking this up tomorrow for the next n+1 endeavor. Any chance one of y'all knows the seat tube diameter of vintage Japanese steel bikes? Looking at the head tube I'm not sure it's gonna fit me, but it's really loving cheap and I can flip it pretty quickly as a full bike. Ideally I want to use it as my grocery getter, but I've got no problem using it to get a better fitting ride.dd
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Jul 24, 2021 04:44
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Call your LBS and see if they have a tool for measuring seatpost diameter we have a thing thats kinda like a stepped rod we just shove in and the biggest diameter that slips in easily is your seat post diameter. Being an old rear end bike expect it to be 25.something mm
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Jul 24, 2021 05:04
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One of our customers split his rim and didn't want to bother having his wheel re laced and we were going to bin the entire thing. Turns out his hub is a pretty OK QR hub with cartridge bearings which is a far cry better than the Joytech that came on my stock Journeyman wheelset. That hub was pretty bottom end to begin with and was having issues and was going to blow up soon. I wanted to replace it seeing as I still ride it most of the time. T he 27.5*2.1 Nanos make that bike perfect for clowning on single track. Took the hub measured it up grabbed a Mavic Enduro hub because that's all we have in stock and threw some butted spokes in between. It took me way less time than my last build and came out great. It's even lighter than the old wheel. Bikes are fun.
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Jul 25, 2021 00:47
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I have an old hybrid Trek 7200 I stole out of my parent's garage. I thought it'd be fun to try replacing the frozen suspension fork with a rigid one, and the googling I did suggested that finding parts for this is pretty cheap and trivial. However, I measured the axle to crown distance (~450mm, which matches the spec sheet), and I can't seem to find a fork that comes anywhere close to that. The highest I've found at a reasonable price is ~403-412mm, and anything higher than that is worth more than the bike and clearly meant for a mountain bike. Am I misunderstanding axle to crown distance? Folks in the old discussion threads I found seem adamant that these parts should exist.
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Jul 27, 2021 03:28
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You need a suspension corrected fork. Unfortunately lower end ones are pretty hard to find but the Surly Ogre fork is 447mm axle to crown despite being listed as 'non suspension corrected'.
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Jul 27, 2021 03:54
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Baronash posted:I have an old hybrid Trek 7200 I stole out of my parent's garage. I thought it'd be fun to try replacing the frozen suspension fork with a rigid one, and the googling I did suggested that finding parts for this is pretty cheap and trivial. So you need a straight-steerer canti post QR fork? That is gonna be pretty rare with any real suspension correction. I think it doesn't quite make sense to leave that much space above the brake posts in a rigid fork. Even the Ogre doesn't have canti posts.
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Jul 27, 2021 14:34
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kimbo305 posted:Even the Ogre doesn't have canti posts. It did up through the 2016 model
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Jul 27, 2021 16:23
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Bottom Liner posted:It did up through the 2016 model Oh, you're right. Kinda steep for NOS: https://www.ebay.com/itm/265197608711
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Jul 27, 2021 16:32
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The current ogre still has both if you buy a black one.
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Jul 27, 2021 17:48
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kimbo305 posted:Oh, you're right. Kinda steep for NOS: Yeah, a bit more than I was hoping for. Add in a new headset and stem and I'm not sure I'm interested in spending $200 for what is basically just for an excuse to wrench on a bike.
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Jul 27, 2021 20:36
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New lovely WTF/Ohshit question: Replacing the chain on my hardtail - Shimano 1x12 - reading through the dealer manual to understand the process and expectations and...I'm confused. On the chain coming off (Deore? SLX?) I've got 56 total segments (112 pins) of length - that would have been installed at the bike shop. When I follow the instructions (4-5 pins from zero) and cut the chain - I've got like 58 segments - 116 pins. I've followed the directions, so far as I can tell: Wrap the chain around the big front (easy, it's the only one) and the big back (Yep, ok) - there's only *a little* slack in the chain wrapped this way (if I pull it taut, it is a quarter-link shy of fitting properly at the next tooth) - and then zero out, etc, etc. I'm guessing this is just the guy who put it together brainfarting and using the Shimano calculation for everything except their 1x12 (2-3 pins) - rather than me somehow drastically misunderstanding a dealer's manual and multiple youtube videos? 
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Aug 5, 2021 09:08
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Honestly I’m just so lazy I put the old chain next to the new one and make it the same length. I’d have never found out it was the wrong length unless it was obvious on the bike.
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Aug 5, 2021 09:54
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Cuntpunch posted:New lovely WTF/Ohshit question: If you're sizing using big-big, there should be no slack at all before you add the specified number of links. The best way to do this is to overlap the chain at the chainring rather than at a random point in space. If the two ends of the chain are very close but not quite overlapped, it's probably okay to round down instead of rounding up. Also keep in mind that a quicklink adds a half-inch. If using small-small routed through the derailleur cage, you just want the cage to be under slight tension (chain doesn't rub itself at the guide pulley.) This is slightly more complicated because the b-screw needs to be adjusted correctly beforehand. But honestly, just use Park Tool's chain sizing instructions.
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Aug 5, 2021 10:44
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:Honestly I’m just so lazy I put the old chain next to the new one and make it the same length. I’d have never found out it was the wrong length unless it was obvious on the bike. It crossed my mind - hence knowing the link counts - but I also figured I may as well dot the i's and cross the t's since this is a first time thing. Speaking of - I notice now that in the highest gear now that the lower chain is, well, perpendicular to the ground. Which...I guess it is supposed to be? Which...does suggest the chain-as-installed was too short? TobinHatesYou posted:If you're sizing using big-big, there should be no slack at all before you add the specified number of links. The best way to do this is to overlap the chain at the chainring rather than at a random point in space. If the two ends of the chain are very close but not quite overlapped, it's probably okay to round down instead of rounding up. Also keep in mind that a quicklink adds a half-inch. Used the shimano dealer manual's method: Big Big, meet the chain on the back cassette, on the long-end, zero is on the cassette, then count 4-5 pins more to inner. Quick Link on top of that. Cuntpunch fucked around with this message at 10:51 on Aug 5, 2021 |
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Aug 5, 2021 10:49
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Once you size the chain you always have the option of erring on the side of caution going a bit long using the old quicklink to hook it all together and see how it runs in the stand and during a gentle test run up and down the street. If it's too loose at that point trim down again. Once you're satisfied put in the new quicklink. Running the chain a link or two too long usually has very minimal effect on shifting on 1x and medium/long cage setups but with the benefit of possibly being better able to field service the bike. Bend a few links in an incident and you can get rid of them without having to lock out any of your gear range. Of course don't run the chain longer than spec if it does cause issues.
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Aug 5, 2021 11:26
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EvilJoven posted:Once you size the chain you always have the option of erring on the side of caution going a bit long using the old quicklink to hook it all together and see how it runs in the stand and during a gentle test run up and down the street. If it's too loose at that point trim down again. Once you're satisfied put in the new quicklink. That's the thing - it seems like the chain was too short from the shop - one notable thing that I only see/understand now, for example: At highest gear, the derailleur (XT) is folded relatively high up, holding the chain perpendicular to the ground and then doubling back 180 degrees between pulleys. Previously, it was much slacker, holding the chain (and pulley) a fair bit closer to the ground. Also coincidentally - while installing it, it was pretty much the moment I pieced together the quicklink (brake + pedal method, as I do not have the tool) - that I looked back and noticed I had misrouted the chain through the rear mech with regards to the chain guide between pulleys. I fought with the quick link (shoelace method) a bit but couldn't make any progress towards removing it - so I just cut and rejoined the chain instead for the sake of rerouting it. Is this greivously bad? Like: Should I be figuring on replacing the chain as well? Are the pins like the quicklinks in being one-time-use? I notice that when I cut both chains - the old one for removal, the new one both to size and then to fix routing - they left a *very* small ring on the chain tool.
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Aug 5, 2021 11:52
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