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My main brush is a Windsor and Newton #2 synthetic sable and it does it's job admirably.
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Jul 14, 2021 16:04
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If you're looking for synthetics, you want Golden Taklon, it's intended to be closest to sable.
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Jul 14, 2021 16:21
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Mengel is more or less a GW employee at this point, so just take his review with a grain of salt. I've used the Monument synthetics and they are fine, but probably a bit overpriced. I've taken to buying the middle-tier budget golden taklon brush packs from Michael's or whatever. They usually cost about 6 or 7 bucks for 3-5 brushes and while the QA is very hit or miss I've had some that could keep a nice point for a couple of months. The nice thing is if one goes hook-ended after a week of use I don't feel too bad about tossing it or relegating it to terrain paste duty and opening up another one from the pack.
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Jul 14, 2021 17:37
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Going to a small local art store (not a big box) just to see what's out there is a good bet. Taking a look around and asking what they would suggest for doing fine working with acrylic, washes and inks. Take a model with you if you think it will help. Doing miniature painting is not going to be close to the most insane thing they have encountered especially if it supplies material for a uni or college. Those ones will also have a good range of inexpensive to high end brushes available. Plus if you take a look around you find things like spatulas that I can guarantee are going to have a lower markup than a game store. Worse thing that could happen is that everything is much more expensive than you thought, you say you are going to think about it and leave.
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Jul 14, 2021 17:49
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Beffer posted:The guy on the left isn’t yelly. He's lovely about the noise the other jerks are making. “Can’t we just cleanse the Xeno scourge quietly for once. By the Emperor” This is now my headcanon.
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Jul 14, 2021 19:14
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jesus WEP posted:just to go back to the OP of the question, you do not by any means need a #1 and a #2 brush. a good #2 or even #3 brush with a sharp tip can paint just as fine detail as a smaller brush. you could maybe pick up a 0 or 00 for the specific case of having to paint something in a really tight squeeze like getting to a space marine’s chest eagle behind their gun or something. but imo buying a 1 and a 2 is going to leave you with a 1 you have no use for I was just going off some websites I was reading, I felt like I needed some needle point brushes to get the details I wanted for necron Warriors. What a massive pain to paint behind their weapons. I can see why people do sub assembly
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Jul 14, 2021 19:56
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SkyeAuroline posted:Thinking about coming back after a few years off, if I can clear space and salvage my old supplies and minis. If I do, resuming an old Marine project but with an updated color scheme. Always wondered how DE-style Incubi Darkness scheme would look on Marine armor, but drawing a blank on what's a good accent color so I'm not doing one color for the entire armor suit. Something for the shoulder insets and the faceplate. Purple? Dark red? My old DE army used a nonstandard scheme in red instead, so I never did get to experiment with it there. I use Wild Rider Red (is it a red orange or an orange red?) with Incubi Darkness for my grots, and it pops quite well.
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Jul 14, 2021 20:41
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Winklebottom posted:I use Wild Rider Red (is it a red orange or an orange red?) with Incubi Darkness for my grots, and it pops quite well. That does look quite nice, and I think I had some before I stopped painting - guess I'll see how much of it survived when I get started.
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Jul 14, 2021 21:04
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SkyeAuroline posted:That does look quite nice, and I think I had some before I stopped painting - guess I'll see how much of it survived when I get started. no idea how old it is but gonna bet none of it survived
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Jul 14, 2021 21:08
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Spanish Manlove posted:no idea how old it is but gonna bet none of it survived 2 years or so, all closed in a sealed box. Not performing archaeology here. I fully expect all the white paints to be dead as a door nail though.
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Jul 14, 2021 21:51
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You might be pleasantly surprised. I've got paint that I didn't buy this century still usable. It didn't all survive, but plenty did.
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Jul 14, 2021 23:41
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Another of my slowly improving minis. Happy with how he came out even if the eyes are a little wonky. Extremely happy with the cape as it's the first time I've put effort into highlights and shading together.  
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Jul 15, 2021 06:51
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Hey ya'll. So I bought some grass paper for my blood bowl pitch but good loving god, the grass flakes off a lot. It's making a mess, what's the best way to stop this? Gorilla Glue spray?
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Jul 15, 2021 09:14
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TheDiceMustRoll posted:Hey ya'll. So I bought some grass paper for my blood bowl pitch but good loving god, the grass flakes off a lot. It's making a mess, what's the best way to stop this? Gorilla Glue spray? You could always try mixing PVA glue and water and they spray it over the grass with a cheap spray bottle for watering plants. I tend to spray my terrain with varnish, and it helps a bit with keeping static grass and such in place.
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Jul 15, 2021 10:08
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I'm buying some 40K minis off a guy that have been assembled and primed green. I'm shooting for a brighter orange scheme. Would I be better off priming over the green with a 2nd coat or stripping them? If I need to strip them what should I use? Mini painting is new to me so I'm flying blind here.
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Jul 15, 2021 15:13
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S.W.O.R.D. Agent posted:I'm buying some 40K minis off a guy that have been assembled and primed green. I'm shooting for a brighter orange scheme. Would I be better off priming over the green with a 2nd coat or stripping them? If I need to strip them what should I use? When I was still getting secondhand minis I just stripped them as a matter of course. Simple Green in a shallow tupperware container for a day or two, electric toothbrush to get the loose bits clear after it's been in. Never damaged anything (might not like greenstuff?), rarely 100% cleaned everything off the mini but enough priming back over it worked out fine.
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Jul 15, 2021 15:20
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SkyeAuroline posted:When I was still getting secondhand minis I just stripped them as a matter of course. Simple Green in a shallow tupperware container for a day or two, electric toothbrush to get the loose bits clear after it's been in. Never damaged anything (might not like greenstuff?), rarely 100% cleaned everything off the mini but enough priming back over it worked out fine. Awesome, thanks!
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Jul 15, 2021 15:29
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I'd say use a toothbrush and elbow grease, electric toothbrush might snap spindly pieces
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Jul 15, 2021 16:13
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I have used both Simple Green and LA's Totally Awesome cleaner (available at the dollar store in the US) for stripping, and LA's has been much more effective. Other people have recommended Testor's ELO, but I haven't had a chance to try it out yet.
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Jul 15, 2021 16:13
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Anyone have any tips for doing metallic red/yellow? I'm about to paint up Iron Man for Crisis Protocol and don't want to just do a flat color. I was thinking about doing a thin contrast over silver but wanted to see if there is a better way of doing this.
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Jul 15, 2021 16:21
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I left some simple green (well the "purple clean" equivalent) outside and it turned into simple piss. I wonder if it's still good.
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Jul 15, 2021 16:27
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EdsTeioh posted:Anyone have any tips for doing metallic red/yellow? I'm about to paint up Iron Man for Crisis Protocol and don't want to just do a flat color. I was thinking about doing a thin contrast over silver but wanted to see if there is a better way of doing this. Contrast might work (never tried it myself) but will dull the shine so make sure to make the undercolor brighter (ie: an aluminum if you aim for a silver, a silver if you aim for a steel, etc). But what I do is glazing with inks. For something over the top like Super Heroes I think it works wonders because the color will be very crisp. And also ink is cheaper than hobby paints and one bottle can last you years. When you make your glaze it must be super, super thin and it'll need several layers (around 4 I'd say) but the good thing with this method is that it allows you to play with the color intensity until you're happy with it.
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Jul 15, 2021 16:51
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EdsTeioh posted:Anyone have any tips for doing metallic red/yellow? I'm about to paint up Iron Man for Crisis Protocol and don't want to just do a flat color. I was thinking about doing a thin contrast over silver but wanted to see if there is a better way of doing this. Army Painter has a line of colored metallics, but I don't have any firsthand experience with them
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Jul 15, 2021 16:59
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Anyone have recommendations for packing miniatures, paints, brushes etc for a move? I have a stack of projects on the go, finished models in cabinets, and ordered paints etc I don't want to break or make a mess
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Jul 15, 2021 17:03
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Furism posted:Contrast might work (never tried it myself) but will dull the shine so make sure to make the undercolor brighter (ie: an aluminum if you aim for a silver, a silver if you aim for a steel, etc). But what I do is glazing with inks. For something over the top like Super Heroes I think it works wonders because the color will be very crisp. And also ink is cheaper than hobby paints and one bottle can last you years. When you make your glaze it must be super, super thin and it'll need several layers (around 4 I'd say) but the good thing with this method is that it allows you to play with the color intensity until you're happy with it. Oh, man I bought inks a while back and hardly ever use them! I'll try this on some test plastic and see how it turns out.
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Jul 15, 2021 17:06
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EdsTeioh posted:Anyone have any tips for doing metallic red/yellow? I'm about to paint up Iron Man for Crisis Protocol and don't want to just do a flat color. I was thinking about doing a thin contrast over silver but wanted to see if there is a better way of doing this. Contrast over metallics works very well. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i1zSQdAnqoM https://pbs.twimg.com/media/EeNZEcdWsAAB6E2?format=jpg&name=medium
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Jul 15, 2021 17:14
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Tamiya red clear over gold gives this amazingly rich metalic red color that would be perfect for Iron Man. The way I would do it is spray the entire model gold, then mask the areas I want to keep gold and spray the rest with Tamiya red clear. Super easy and would look amazing.
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Jul 15, 2021 21:02
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Bucnasti posted:Tamiya red clear over gold gives this amazingly rich metalic red color that would be perfect for Iron Man. Also not a bad idea!
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Jul 15, 2021 21:22
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Not my cleanest paintjob, but I'm still pretty happy with this. 
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Jul 16, 2021 01:55
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Is it worth it to move GW paints to dropper bottles? Do they really dry out that fast?
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Jul 16, 2021 13:50
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S.W.O.R.D. Agent posted:Is it worth it to move GW paints to dropper bottles? Do they really dry out that fast? I moved all my contrasts over to droppers and I haven't regretted it, but that's mostly for paint mixing purposes. It's pretty easy to get 50/50 mixes with dropper bottles and you can get some really nice colors by mixing contrasts.
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Jul 16, 2021 13:54
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Do you have a link to good dropper bottles off hand? Did you just use mini funnels or is there a better way?
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Jul 16, 2021 13:58
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I would say at least for contrast paints it might be worth it. These contrast pots have a rotten tendency to crust up around the top, making closing them properly almost impossible, and when the moisture starts to evaporate the paint loses some of its effect.
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Jul 16, 2021 14:11
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S.W.O.R.D. Agent posted:Do you have a link to good dropper bottles off hand? Did you just use mini funnels or is there a better way? I just used cheap 20ml ones from Amazon and a 20-pack of tiny plastic funnels. There's some variance as to how much paint a GW pot actually contains and I found it was better to go big since you may need to add a few drops of water to get the last of the paint out of the pot. I've put a few other GW paints in droppers too, the only paint I regret doing that with is Auric Armor Gold. Even vortex mixing it every day isn't enough to keep it from settling (I imagine GW's Clump White would have the same problem but I've switched to other manufacturers for my white paints because GW's is so poo poo)
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Jul 16, 2021 14:18
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I've moved my washes to dropper bottles - I can usually snag up a spilled paint pot before it does damage but wash is just too runny.
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Jul 16, 2021 14:20
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Coolio, thanks for the info. I'll go that route then!
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Jul 16, 2021 14:26
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S.W.O.R.D. Agent posted:Coolio, thanks for the info. I'll go that route then! The one tip I do have though: If you try to get a drop of paint and nothing comes out (or you get very little), don't try to force it. Use a toothpick or pin to clear the nozzle. If you try to force it there's a good chance you'll blow the top off and spill half your paint.
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Jul 16, 2021 14:42
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i just keep my open contrast and wash pots on my wet palette so if they spilled it would just ruin some paper and sponge
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Jul 16, 2021 14:43
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PoptartsNinja posted:The one tip I do have though: If you try to get a drop of paint and nothing comes out (or you get very little), don't try to force it. Use a toothpick or pin to clear the nozzle.
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Jul 16, 2021 14:44
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PoptartsNinja posted:The one tip I do have though: If you try to get a drop of paint and nothing comes out (or you get very little), don't try to force it. Use a toothpick or pin to clear the nozzle. I had that happen enough as a child doing arts and crafts that I do that exact thing when something is clogged. I was so mad I got glue over my project that I never forget to check if there is tension when gluing now
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Jul 16, 2021 18:15
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